Kenya
Migration Safari
August 10 to 23, 2010

This is the definitive wildlife enthusiasts' short safari with six days in Kenya's Masai Mara, plus Lake Nakuru in the Rift Valley and three days at Samburu in the Northern Territory, all the while enjoying top quality lodging. For nocturnal action, we'll be in the heart of the Mara Triangle at Mara Serena to do nightspotting. Timed at the peak of migration, we'll experience the incredible abundance of African mammals, as wildebeest and zebra move through the Mara along the rivers and east into the Keekorok area. The mammal and bird diversity is guaranteed to impress! Doug and Gail Cheeseman have been leading safaris to Kenya since 1978.

At a Glance

Companion Safari: Extend your stay in Africa by adding Botswana and Zambia OR Tanzania, both immediately before this safari.

Cost: $6150. Review cost details.

Leaders: Gail and Doug Cheeseman have been leading small group wildlife-intensive safaris to East, Central and Southern Africa since 1978.

Size: 18 plus Doug, Gail, and our knowledgeable drivers.

Conditions: A non-smoking safari for people who are very interested in wildlife (mammals, birds and reptiles) and spending the maximum of time in the field.

Update: This itinerary was updated in August 2008. View the plain text version, great for printing!

Synopsis:

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Detailed Itinerary

August 10 - 11, Tuesday - Wednesday: Flights to Nairobi, Kenya
Depart on Saturday, August 9, to connect with a flight in Amsterdam or elsewhere in Europe on Sunday to Nairobi. Upon arrival in Nairobi, clear customs, then meet our Rhino Safaris "meet and greet" person to transfer to the Mayfair Court Hotel. Doug and Gail will arrive at the Mayfair by 6 pm on Sunday from a safari in southern Africa and will be delighted to meet you when you arrive this evening, ready for a good night's sleep. If you would like to arrive a day earlier, the extra overnight at the Mayfair Court is $160 per room, including breakfast. Meals on your own or on your international flights.
Lodging on August 11: Mayfair Court Hotel

Wildebeest Crossing the Mara River

August 12 - 13, Thursday - Friday: The Masai Mara Game Reserve
The Mayfair serves a magnificent breakfast. We'll plan to meet for breakfast at 6:30 am. Our very experienced Kenyan drivers will arrive by 7:15 am. We'll introduce our wonderful drivers, Grephus, Zach, Peter, Daniel and John, who are long time friends, as well as very knowledgeable drivers, and Titus Imboma, an outstanding ecologist and ornithologist, who has led six previous Kenya safaris with us. Depart Nairobi down the eastern escarpment of the Great Rift Valley, across the Rift Valley and up the western escarpment into the part of the Serengeti Eco-system with the most rainfall, the Masai Mara. We'll have six full days here at the peak of the famous wildebeest/zebra migration, the first two nights at Keekorok Lodge in the SE Mara, the best place in August for the largest concentrations of the migration and the last four nights in the Mara Triangle at Mara Serena, where we can still drive off road along the Mara River.

The Mara has great habitats: riverine forest, acacia woodland, grasslands, croton bush (a favorite hideout for Black Rhino), termite mounds, marshes, escarpments and rocky outcrops. The Mara receives more than 20 inches of rain per year and has the greatest concentration of mammals anywhere in the world at this time of year when the eastern Serengeti in Tanzania is at its driest. The Mara's lush grasses, especially the Red Oats Grass, sustain the herds during the dry season. Even into the 1960's the Mara was bushland, not savanna, and the grazing antelopes did not migrate into the Mara as they do today. Back in the 1950's hot fires and elephants browsing on trees began cutting the bush back. In the 80's and 90's the Mara became almost entirely savanna, except for the few remaining riverine forest areas along the Mara River and tributaries. It will be interesting if the cycle of change brings the Mara back to bush. The "Migration" will be in huge numbers in the Mara by now, as the Burchell's Zebras come first from Tanzania feeding on coarse grass followed by Wildebeest, then Thomson's Gazelles. The number of species in the Mara is an incredible reminder of "The Glory of the Pleistocene". Not only mammals, but birds are abundant and very visible here and easily photographed. Explore on foot in certain areas where allowed, such as the hippo pools at the Mara bridge near the Tanzania border and on the lodge grounds.
Lodging: Keekorok Lodge

August 14 - 17, Saturday - Tuesday: The Masai Mara Game Reserve
On these four nights we will stay at Mara Serena, located on a hill overlooking the Mara River and beyond to the mountains in Tanzania. It is secured with electric fencing, so it is a great place for walking. We have included a night drive on the plains, a great opportunity to see some of the creatures, which stay hidden by day, only to come out under the cover of night. Possibilities are Bat-eared Fox, White-tailed Mongoose, Lesser Galago (the smaller of the two bushbabies), Hippos out grazing on grass, nightjars, owls and maybe even a hunting predator, such as a Leopard or Lions perhaps even hunting. On game drives we will include the beautiful riverine areas along the Mara, hippos gather in large pools and big fig trees attract turacos and barbets and other fruit eaters. We'll travel along the base of the east/west escarpment that borders the Mara, which is a major fault line that runs all the way across the Serengeti Eco-system to Lake Victoria, although we won't go that far! Some beautiful scenes in "Out of Africa" were filmed along here looking down into the Mara paradise from the top of Oloololo Escarpment.

A bit of luck will have us watching a true wildlife spectacle: the movement of thousands upon thousands of Wildebeest in one of the greatest remaining wildernesses in the world. The African Lions and other predators, which follow the "migration" will be in action as well. In August the "migration" concentrates throughout the Mara, but mainly from the Mara River to the Keekorok area.
Lodging: Mara Serena Lodge

White Rhino at Nakuru National Park

August 18, Wednesday: Nakuru National Park
We'll game drive across the Mara and drive down the western escarpment into the Great Rift Valley. Arrive by late afternoon at Lake Nakuru, the most famous alkali lake of the Rift Valley, pink with flamingoes, both Lesser and Greater. Nakuru is very well protected now as a refuge for Lion, Leopard, Black Rhino and the introduced White Rhino. Overnight at Lion Hill Lodge inside Nakuru National Park. We have found a colony of Green Wood-hoopoes, several cuckoos and many other woodland species on the lodge grounds. Rothchild's Giraffe, one of the most beautiful sub-species of this most photogenic of mammals, is a highlight along with many other mammals, including a pride of Lions in the woodlands and along the lake edge. The flamingo photography is spectacular at Lake Nakuru in the late afternoon or when the morning light is just right. In the evening back at Lion Hill Lodge, the chefs feature excellent Indian food on their outstanding international menu.
Lodging: Lion Hill Lodge

August 19 - 21, Thursday - Saturday: Samburu and Buffalo Springs Game Reserve
Enjoy a before breakfast game drive at Nakuru, the best time for lovely light on the abundant wildlife around the lake. After breakfast depart from Nakuru with a picnic lunch for the journey north to Samburu. Going up the side of the eastern escarpment of the Great Rift Valley, agricultural lands, especially tea cultivation, are prominent. It is important to note that East Africans are very conscious of their land problems and have embarked on tree planting to help restore woodlands and slow down erosion problems, which we will see during our drive between reserves. Looking down on a spectacular view into the Rift Valley from where we have just come, continue east across the northern tip of the Aberdare Mountains to Nyaharuru (Thompson's Falls) with a stop for our picnic lunch. Along the southern edge of the Laikipia Plateau we'll drive east through Nanyuki in the Kenya Highlands. The abrupt contrast is striking between the rich Rift Valley, green Kenya Highlands and the more arid Northern Frontier, where the Uaso Nyiro River is the lifeline for the many species of wildlife that must come to drink. Cross over lands belonging to several different tribal groups. The town of Isiolo is a converging point of many tribes, including many driven south by drought.

Arrive at Samburu in time for a late afternoon game drive from the park gate to the lodge. Check in at Samburu Serena Lodge. Beside the lodge runs the Uaso Nyiro River. The open dining room here is a marvelous experience, both the setting and the excellent cuisine. Overnight three nights at Samburu Serena Lodge. Each day we'll explore along the banks of the Uaso Nyiro River, where African Elephants and other wildlife that come to water are active throughout the day.

Somali Ostrich in Samburu

We do not encourage stopping along the roads to the parks to photograph Masai and their close relatives, the Samburu. The reason for not stopping along the roads is simply that it encourages begging, certainly beneath the dignity of these wonderful people. Children hold out their hands along the roads, a practice that both the government and tour operators do not wish to encourage. In many cases money from tourism is now an important source of income for nomadic people whose lands are fast becoming victim of overgrazing and desertification. We will pass by many "cultural manyattas" outside the boundaries of the Masai Mara and in this area outside Samburu and Buffalo Springs. By staying on their land the Masai and Samburu have a far better existence than going to a city where unemployment runs very high. However, there is one big problem with the "cultural manyattas". The money from manyatta visitors ($100 per vehicle) goes right into buying more livestock, which accelerates overgrazing and competition with wildlife. The Masai and Samburu people do not use banks to store their money. When they need cash, they sell a cow. There is one manyatta beside the Samburu gate near the town of Archers Post that has be made famous by Rebecca Lolosoli, called the Umoja Uaso Women's Group. If you would like to do a cultural manyatta visit at Samburu, let us know by Monday to reserve a visit to this special Samburu manyatta for you that especially assists women in need.

We'll do before-breakfast game drives on Tuesday and Wednesday when the predators are most active, another sortie before lunch and an afternoon game drive until 6:30 pm (dusk). The Samburu and Buffalo Springs reserves are divided by the Uaso Nyiro River. This is the only area where we will see Beisa Oryx, Grevy's Zebra (now an endangered species), Reticulated Giraffe, Gerenuk, and Somali Ostrich. "Gerenuk" is the Samburu word for an animal that does not need to drink water. Others say it means "giraffe-neck" and the Swahili name "Swara Twiga" translates as "giraffe-like antelope". The Gerenuk is very adept at standing on its hind legs and reaching up to browse on vegetation, which is 4 - 6 ft. high. This antelope is a favorite of all people who like to watch feeding behavior. The mating behavior of the Gerenuk is also incredibly graceful. Samburu has many drought-adapted animals. All these species get metabolic water from leaves and other food sources. Some plant species that look dry and unappetizing during the day are quite the reverse at night, soaking up the night moisture, and providing an important food source for herbivores. The beautiful Vulturine Guinea-fowl, Donaldson-Smith's Sparrow Weaver, and Black-capped Social Weavers are also only seen here in Kenya's Northern Territory. Birding on the lodge grounds is fantastic and during one game drive you may take the option of joining Titus and the Samburu Serena resident naturalist for a two hour walk.
Lodging: Samburu Serena Lodge

August 22 - 23, Sunday - Monday: From Samburu to Nairobi and homeward
After an early breakfast, we'll slowly game drive out to the reserve gate, then head south back through Isiolo and Nanyuki through the Kenya Highlands along the flanks of Mount Kenya. Much of the land south of Nanyuki is wheat, flowers and fruit agriculture, as well as the hillside cultivation of the Kikuyu in the Kenya Highlands between Mt Kenya to the east and the Aberdare Mountains to the west. Before reaching Nairobi we pass by Thika in the rich Kikuyu lands described by Elspeth Huxley in "Flame Trees of Thika". We'll arrive in Nairobi in the late afternoon with time for an hour's visit to the newly remodeled National Museum of Natural History. Titus Imboma works at the Bird Department here and has spent much time preparing the new exhibits, along with being a full time student at the University of Nairobi in the biological sciences. The museum also has a gift shop with a good selection of books and crafts, which benefits their very worth-while ongoing projects. Throughout the safari, the lodge gift shops are excellent, but you may have time to do a little shopping here too. Dinner on your own this evening and transfer for evening flights to the airport by 6:30 pm or if staying overnight for a morning flight on Friday. Airport transfers are included on Thursday evening or Friday morning. Separate transfers at other times are $50 per vehicle. Gain back 8 hours to the East Coast and 11 hours to the West Coast of the USA from Kenya with arrival home on the 22nd or 23rd, depending on your departure date. If staying one night in Amsterdam, the Hotel Ibis, located very close to the airport, provides a free shuttle every half hour and is reasonably priced. There are also the Hotel Mercure inside the airport and the Sheraton across from the airport that don't require a shuttle.

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Costs

Costs, Payments and Cancellations: Upon receiving your deposit, we will send complete trip materials. Deposits are refundable before the final payment date, except for $150. The $150 may go toward another tour if a reservation is made within six months of the departure date of this trip. There are no refunds given after the final payment date. Trip cancellation insurance applications are available. Trip options, if any, and singles are extra.

Included:

• Meals - from breakfast on August 12 through lunch on August 22.

Not Included:

• Airfare - Please let us know if you need help arranging your own air flights. Cost should be approximately $1800 east coast USA to Nairobi and $2000 west coast USA to Nairobi (quoted 2008, subject to change). Find flight schedule details in the Detailed Intinerary.
• Bottled beverages, laundry services, and other personal expenses are not included. Each lodge provides one half-liter bottle per person of drinking water in your room daily. Bottled water is an extra charge at meal times, except at breakfast, when water is often available to fill your water bottle.
• Gratuities: Tipping our drivers is, of course, discretionary, however we suggest budgeting $12 to $15 per day per participant (a total of $132 to $165 per participant) to be distributed among all the resident naturalists. Doug and Gail also contribute their share. The gratuity will be collected at the end of the safari.

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Other Details

Reservations: Please contact us to assure space availability and to let us answer your questions. Then, fill out our reservation form, and mail it to us with your deposit:

Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris
20800 Kittredge Road
Saratoga, CA 95070

Toll Free: (800) 527-5330
Local: (408) 741-5330
Fax: (408) 741-0358
Email: info@cheesemans.com

Travel Insurance: There are many types of travel insurance, including emergency medical insurance (cheap) and trip cancellation insurance (expensive). Be sure to compare benefits and exclusions carefully so you will purchase the policy that you desire and need. Read our recommendations and requirements.

Gail and Doug Cheeseman

Leaders: Doug and Gail Cheeseman have found leading safaris to be a fresh way of blending a desire to observe nature with a wish to inspire travelers towards the values of conservation and education. Doug turned on biology majors with zoology and ecology at De Anza College in Cupertino, California during his long career. Gail is an avid birder and naturalist, plus a meticulous coordinator of trip logistics. Gail and Doug lead as many trips as their schedule can accommodate, including Antaractica, Africa, and Bhutan.

Outfitters and Lodging:Rhino Safaris in Nairobi providing five nine-seater stretch Land Cruisers with covered poptops and lots of room for photography with only 4 people, plus our naturalist/driver, in each vehicle. Excellent lodging, beautiful surroundings, wonderful food and private baths.

Mailing List: If you would like to be on our mailing list or request information, please use our online information request form or send us your name, address, email address and phone number. Please note we will never share your personal information with anybody!

Baggage: When packing for your trip, please try to limit yourself to one bag up to 40 pounds total per person. The less weight the better, because of space restrictions in the baggage compartment of the vehicles. There is plenty of space in the vehicles for carry-ons and camera equipment. On safari we pay extra to give you more room in the Land Cruiser stretch vehicles with a maximum of four participants per vehicle, plus our drivers and guides.

Responsibility: Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris, Saratoga, California, act only as agents and shall not be responsible or become liable for any delay incurred by any person in connection with any means of transportation, nor for the loss, damage, or injury to person or property by reason of any event beyond the control of the agency or default of such agency suppliers. We reserve the right to cancel the tour prior to departure in which case full refund will constitute full settlement to the passenger. No refund will be made for any unused portion of the tour unless arrangements are made at the time of booking. All rates are based on current tariffs, exchange rates and fuel prices and are subject to adjustment in the event of any change therein. By sending your initial deposit, you agree to accept our payment schedule as a contract. If payments are still outstanding two weeks after the due date, your space may be forfeited. Baggage is at the owner's risk.

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All material © Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris.
All photos © Doug or Ted Cheeseman, unless otherwise credited.
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