Kenya
Migration Safari
July 19 - 31, 2009

Giraffe in Samburu Game Reserve

At a Glance

Companion Safari: Extend your stay in Africa by adding Tanzania, immediately before this safari.

Cost: $5450. Review cost details.

Leaders: Gail and Doug Cheeseman have been leading small group wildlife-intensive safaris to East Africa, Central Africa and Southern Africa since 1978. We will use our favorite resident naturalists and drivers.

Outfitters: Rhino Safaris in Nairobi, Kenya. Travel in stretch Landcruisers with only four safari members in each, allowing plenty of space. Take great photography from the covered poptops. Lodgings are in beautiful surroundings, with wonderful food, private baths and good laundry service.

Size: 18, not including Doug, Gail, or our knowledgeable drivers.

Conditions: A non-smoking safari for people who are very interested in wildlife (mammals, birds and reptiles) and spending the maximum of time in the field.

Update: This itinerary was updated in April 2009. View the plain text version, great for printing!

Synopsis:

• July 19 - 20: Depart by July 19 to arrive in Nairobi on July 20. Safari begins the evening of the July 20.
• July 21 - 23: Samburu and Buffalo Springs game reserves in the Northern Frontier. Samburu Lodge.
• July 24: The Kenya Highlands. Game viewing, forest walk, and overnight at Mountain Lodge.
• July 25: Nakuru National Park beside beautiful Lake Nakuru in the Great Rift. Lion Hill Lodge.
• July 26 - 27: Mara Serena in the Mara Triangle where off-road driving is allowed, plus night drive.
• July 28 - 29:Keekorok Lodge in the southeast Mara Game Reserve amid vast herds.
• July 30: AM Mara, PM back to Nairobi. Mayfair Court dayrooms. Evening flights or overnight.
• July 31: Connecting flight homeward. If flying from Nairobi on the morning of July 31, Arrive home on August 1.

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Detailed Itinerary

Male Ostrich in Samburu Game Reserve

July 19 - 20, Sunday - Monday Flights to Nairobi
Good flight choices are available to Nairobi from several cities in Europe and from Johannesburg, South Africa, via Atlanta. KLM via Amsterdam arrives in the early evening. Call us if you would like flight assistance. Your airport transfer to the Mayfair Court Holiday Inn in Nairobi with the Rhino Safari "meet and greet" hostess is included. Dinner on your own if you arrive in time for dinner.
Lodging: Mayfair Court Holiday Inn

July 21, Tuesday: Samburu and Buffalo Springs Game Reserves in the Northern Frontier
After an excellent, early breakfast at 6 am at the Mayfair, depart at 7 am for the journey north to fantastic Samburu. We'll meet our wonderful Kenyan drivers, plus Titus Imboma, a resident Kenyan biologist who is a close friend and an expert on the birds of Kenya as well. Drive north from Nairobi through the rolling country of the Kikuyu people, described by Elspeth Huxley in Flame Trees of Thika. Much of the land now is planted with coffee and pineapple, in addition to the small "shamba" (farms) of the Kikuyu. The abrupt contrast between the green Highlands and the arid Northern Frontier is striking. The town of Isiolo near Samburu is a converging point of many tribes, plus others driven south by drought and strife. Arrive at Samburu Lodge in time for lunch, then an afternoon game drive. Beside the lodge runs the Uaso Nyiro River, always attractive to wildlife, especially at dusk to Leopard and Striped Hyena that sometime make visits to look for a piece of goat meat hung on a platform along the river bank. The open dining room here is a marvelous experience, both the setting and the excellent cuisine.
Lodging: Samburu Lodge

Young Impala in Samburu Game Reserve

July 22 - 23, Wednesday - Thursday: Samburu and Buffalo Springs Game Reserves
The Samburu area is definitely a highlight of the safari. The Samburu and Buffalo Springs reserves are divided by the Uaso Nyiro River. It's the only area where we will see Beisa Oryx, Grevy's Zebra, Reticulated Giraffe, Gerenuk, and Somali Ostrich. Vulturine Guinea-fowl, Donaldson-Smith's Sparrow Weaver, and Black-capped Social Weavers are also only seen here in Kenya's Northern Territory. The horns of the Beisa Oryx are equally splendid on both male and females and allow them to protect themselves from lion attacks. Another equally interesting antelope, the "Gerenuk", whose name is a Samburu word meaning an animal that does not need to drink water, has a "giraffe-neck". The Swahili name for this animal, "Swara Twiga," translates as "giraffe-like antelope". Gerenuk are very adept at standing on their hind legs and reaching up to browse on vegetation 6 - 7 ft. high. This animal is a favorite of all people who like to watch animal feeding behavior. The mating behavior of the Gerenuk is also incredibly graceful. Samburu has many drought-adapted animals, including the highly endangered Grevy's Zebra, the most magnificent and largest of all the zebra species. Grevy's Zebra males are territorial, quite different in behavior from the Burchell's Zebras that we will see by the thousands in the huge migration herds of the Serengeti eco-system. All these species get metabolic water from leaves and other food sources. Some plant species that look dry and unappetizing during the day are quite the reverse at night, soaking up the night moisture, and providing an important food source for herbivores.

We'll spend a lot of time along the banks of the Uaso Nyiro River, the life-line for the many elephants and other wildlife that must come to water. We offer three game drives both days, as even at mid-day, in addition to the before breakfast and late afternoon game drives, there is lots of action along the river. The photography is wonderful at Sambu.
Lodging: Samburu Lodge

July 24, Friday: Mountain Lodge beside Mount Kenya
Drive south through the arid lands of Isiolo back up to the rolling fertile countryside of the Kikuyu people in the Kenyan Highlands, a complete contrast from the arid Northern Frontier where we have just been. It is important to note that East Africans are very conscious of their land problems and have embarked on tree planting to help restore woodlands and slow down erosion.

Arrive for lunch at Mountain Lodge on the flanks of Mount Kenya in good forest habitat for beautiful Black-and-White Colobus Monkeys and Sykes' Monkeys. At Mountain Lodge male and female Bushbuck, African Elephants, and Cape Buffalo commonly come out of the forest to the water hole during the day. Waterbirds and forest birds are easily observed. Walk on forest trails after lunch into the late afternoon, accompanied by a resident Mountain Lodge naturalist and Titus. Daylight hours come and go quite precisely at 6:30 am and 6:30 pm on the Equator. Enjoy an evening of watching African Elephants, Cape Buffalo, Bushbuck and others, such as Tree Hyrax, Large-spotted Genet, Marsh Mongoose and other species of the mongoose family, Spotted Hyena, Verreaux's Eagle-Owl and possibly Black Rhino, Giant Forest Hog, Bush Pig and Leopard. This is the only viewing lodge where we have consistently sees Giant Forest Hogs at the salt lick in the evening.
Lodging: Mountain Lodge

Flamingos in Nakuru National Park

July 25, Saturday: From the Kenya Highlands to Nakuru National Park in the Great Rift Valley
At Mountain Lodge when dawn arrives, the wildlife is in action with Black-and-White Colobus Monkeys calling, and parrots, pigeons, hornbills and many others flying overhead . Mount Kenya, at 17,058', often breaks out of the clouds in the very early morning. After breakfast drive west through highland areas to the edge of the Rift Valley, a spectacular view over the valley below, which is still fairly high at about 4000' in elevation. We'll arrive at Lake Nakuru, the most famous alkali lake of the Rift Valley, pink with flamingoes, both Lesser and Greater. Nakuru is very well protected now as a refuge for African Lion, Leopard, the Black Rhino and the recently introduced White Rhino. Our lodging tonight is at Lion Hill Lodge inside Nakuru National Park, where the birding on the lodge grounds is excellent. We have found a colony of Green Wood-hoopoes, several species of cuckoos and many other woodland birds on previous safaris here. Rothchild's Giraffe, one of the most beautiful sub-species of this very photogenic mammal, is a highlight along with many other mammals, including both White and Black rhinos, in the woodlands and along the lake edge. The flamingo photograpy is spectacular at Lake Nakuru in the late afternoon or when the morning light is just right. In the evening back at Lion Hill Lodge, the chefs feature excellent Indian food on their outstanding international menu.
Lodging: Lion Hill Lodge

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July 26 - 27, Sunday - Monday: The Masai Mara at Mara Serena Lodge in the Mara Triangle
After breakfast take a picnic lunch to drive from Nakuru to the Masai Mara for four days, the first two nights at Mara Serena Lodge, where we can drive off road along the Mara River, and the last two nights at Keekorok Lodge, located in the southeast Mara, the best area for the peak of the famous wildebeest/zebra migration in the Mara at this time of year.

The Mara has great habitats: riverine forest, acacia woodland, grasslands, croton bush (a favorite hideout for Black Rhino), termite mounds, marshes, escarpments and rocky outcrops. This area of the Serengeti ecosystem receives more than 20 inches of rain per year and has the greatest concentration of mammals anywhere in the world when the eastern Serengeti in Tanzania is at its driest. The Mara's lush grasses, especially the Red Oats Grass, sustain the herds during the dry season. Even into the 1960's the Mara was bushland, not savanna, and the grazing antelopes did not migrate into the Mara as they do today. Back in the 1950's hot fires and elephants browsing on trees began cutting the bush back. In the 80's and 90's the Mara became almost entirely savanna, except for the few remaining riverine forest areas along the Mara River and tributaries. It will be interesting if the cycle of change brings the Mara back to bush.

The "Migration" will be entering the Mara in large numbers, as the Burchell's Zebras come first from Tanzania feeding on coarse grass tops followed by Wildebeest and Topi, then Thomson's Gazelles. This spectacle is truly an incredible reminder of "The Glory of the Pleistocene". Both Wildebeest and Burchell's Zebras will be crossing together each day by late afternoon, where Nile Crocodiles are waiting to attack.

Enjoy full days on game drives in the Mara, plus some exploring on foot in certain areas where allowed, such as the Hippo Pools at the Mara River bridge near the Tanzania border and on the lodge grounds. Not only mammals, but bird species also, are very abundant here. Mara Serena Lodge is situated on top of a hill with a "view to eternity", as advertised on the Mara Serena website. It is definitely located in the best place to do game drives at this time of year, very close to the Tanzania border and the Mara River and the Sand River, where the huge herds are entering into Kenya. Mara Serena overlooks the Mara River and beyond to the mountains in Tanzania. It is secured with electric fencing, so it is a good place for walking.

From Mara Serena one game drive will take us along the base of the east/west escarpment that borders the Mara, which is a major fault line that runs all the way across the Serengeti Eco-system to Lake Victoria. Some beautiful scenes in "Out of Africa " were filmed along here looking down into the Mara paradise from the top of the Oloololo Escarpment.

We have included a night drive on the plains from Mara Serena, a great opportunity to see some of the creatures, which stay hidden by day, only to come out under the cover of night. Possibilities are Bat-eared Fox, White-tailed Mongoose, Lesser Galago (the smaller of the two bushbabies), Aardvark, Hippos out grazing on grass, nightjars, owls and even a hunting predator, such as a Leopard or Lions perhaps even hunting. You might want to do an optional game drive on the second night at Mara Serena, which costs $75 each.
Lodging: Mara Serena

Leopard in Nakuru National Park

July 28 - 29, Tuesday - Wednesday: The Masai Mara with two nights at Keekorok Lodge
Enjoy another before-breakfast game drive in the Mara Triangle where Cheetah do well hunting gazelles early at dawn. A bit of luck will have us watching a true wildlife spectacle today: the movement of thousands upon thousands of Wildebeest in one of the greatest remaining wildernesses in the world. The African Lions and other predators, which follow the migration will be in action as well. In July the migration concentrates mainly from the Mara River to the Keekorok area, so we head for the Keekorok area, where thousands of Wildebeest and Burchell's Zebra are covering the rich Keekorok grasslands. The Lions of the Keekorok area will be a primary attractions.
Lodging: Keekorok Lodge

Wildebeest crossing the Mara River

The migration will be beginning in the Mara by now as the Burchell's Zebras come first from Tanzania feeding on coarse grass tops followed by Wildebeest and Topi, then Thomson's Gazelles. The number of species in the Mara is truly an incredible reminder of "The Glory of the Pleistocene". Not only mammals, but bird species also are very abundant here. Enjoy full days on game drives in the Mara, plus some exploring on foot in certain areas where allowed, such as the Hippo Pools at the Mara River bridge near the Tanzania border and on the lodge grounds. Mara Serena Lodge is situated on top of a hill with a "view of eternity", as advertised on the Mara Serena website. It is definitely located in the best place to do game drives at this time of year, very close to the Tanzania border and the Mara River, where the huge herds are entering into Kenya.
Lodging: Mara Serena

July 30 - 31, Thursday - Friday: To Nairobi and homeward
Depart from Mara Serena with a picnic lunch, as we game drive across the reserve and arrive back in Nairobi by mid-afternoon to visit the Natural History Museum and enjoy dayrooms at the Mayfair or an overnight if departing on Friday. Transfer to the airport by 6:30 pm for evening flights. The KLM flight departs at 10:15 pm daily via Amsterdam, arriving at 6:00 am to connect on Friday with flights home. Gain back 8 hours to East Coast and 11 hours to the West Coast.

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Costs

Payments and Cancellations: Upon receiving your deposit, we will send complete trip materials. Deposits are refundable before the final payment date, except for $150. The $150 may go toward another tour if a reservation is made within six months of the departure date of this trip. There are no refunds given after the final payment. Trip cancellation insurance applications are available. Trip options, if any, and singles are extra.

Not Included:

• Airfare - Please let us know if you need help arranging your own air flights. Round trip is approximately $2200 from the East Coast and $2400 from the West Coast.
• Airport taxes and visa fees.
• Meals, Beverages, and Personal Items - Dinner on July 20 and 30 in Nairobi are not included, all other meals are included. Bottled beverages, laundry services, and other personal expenses are not included.
• Gratuities - Tipping our drivers is, of course, discretionary, however we suggest budgeting about $12 to 14 per day, preferably the higher amount if you are very happy with your experience with them, especially since the dollar is not worth as much as in previous years. Our drivers give us many extra hours in the field viewing wildlife. Doug and Gail also contribute and will collect the tip at the end of each of the two parts of the safari to be divided up among our drivers.

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Other Details

Reservations: Please contact us to assure space availability and to let us answer your questions. Then, fill out our reservation form, and mail it to us with your deposit:

Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris
20800 Kittredge Road
Saratoga, CA 95070
Toll Free: (800) 527-5330
Local: (408) 741-5330
Fax: (408) 741-0358
Email: info@cheesemans.com

Travel Insurance: There are many types of travel insurance, including emergency medical insurance (cheap) and trip cancellation insurance (expensive). Be sure to compare benefits and exclusions carefully so you will purchase the policy that you desire and need. Read our recommendations and requirements.

Mailing List: If you would like to be on our mailing list or request information, please use our online information request form or send us your name, address, email address and phone number. Please note we will never share your personal information with anybody!

Reading and Field Guides: Some favorites are Craig Packer's Into Africa, describing his lion research in the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater and Cynthia Moss' Elephant Memories and Portraits in the Wild. We recommend that you consider buying a book on mammals of East Africa and a field guide to the birds. Jonathan Kingdon’s Field Guide to the Mammals is the most complete and up to date guide, and now is published in a pocket sized edition. Excellent East Africa bird books, one by Terry Stevenson and the other by Zimmerman and Turner, are available. With receipt of your reservation and deposit we will send a reading list, travel guide, and much more info.

Baggage: When packing for your trip, please try to limit your checked bag to 40 pounds total per person. We ask that you keep it to one checked bag per person. The less weight the better, because of space restrictions in the baggage compartment of the vehicles. Also some international flights now limit checked luggage to 20 kilo (44 pounds) to avoid paying any excess baggage fees. As for the carry-on bags, this is standard as in all flights. Your bag will need to fit under the seat in front of you or in the overhead bin above. It is also going to have to fit with you throughout your trip, so packing lighter is recommended. However plan to bring whatever you require, as there is plenty of space in the vehicles for carry-ons and camera equipment. On safari we pay extra to give you more room in the Landcruiser stretch vehicles with a maximum of four people per vehicle, plus our drivers and guides.

Responsibility: Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris, Saratoga, California, act only as agents and shall not be responsible or become liable for any delay incurred by any person in connection with any means of transportation, nor for the loss, damage, or injury to person or property by reason of any event beyond the control of the agency or default of such agency suppliers. We reserve the right to cancel the tour prior to departure in which case full refund will constitute full settlement to the passenger. No refund will be made for any unused portion of the tour unless arrangements are made at the time of booking. All rates are based on current tariffs, exchange rates and fuel prices and are subject to adjustment in the event of any change therein. By sending your initial deposit, you agree to accept our payment schedule as a contract. If payments are still outstanding two weeks after the due date, your space may be forfeited. Baggage is at the owner's risk.

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All material © Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris.
All photos © Doug or Ted Cheeseman, unless otherwise credited.
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