Land Costs: $5350, including all meals from dinner on Sept. 1 to breakfast on Sept. 11.
 
Airfare: Round trip to Fairbanks: approx. $650 depending on departure point from the “lower 48”. Flights to & from Kaktovik included in land costs.
 
Deposit: $750 ($150 non-refundable).
 
Size: 8. Non-smoking tour.

Itinerary prepared 11/06

• September 1: Arrive in Fairbanks.
• September 2: Wiseman
• September 3: Wiseman
• September 4: To Prudhoe & fly to Kaktovik
• September 5: Kaktovik
• September 6: Kaktovik
• September 7: Fly to Prudhoe
• September 8: Wiseman
• September 9: Wiseman
• September 10: Fairbanks
• September 11: Homeward or extension

Leaders: Exceptional resident naturalist and great personality, Hugh Rose. Hugh has led Alaska trips since 1991 receiving unending praise for his amazing knowledge, plus his attention to every detail and everyone’s needs. He has a grasp on all aspects of Alaskan natural history from in-depth bird behavior to geology. He a professional photographer and is also part of our Antarctica staff. Andrew Johnson, also an outstanding naturalist and photographer, will be the driver of the second vehicle.

Vehicles: Two Ford Excursions, each one with 4 people, plus driver. Windows open and allow photography from the vehicle, but most photography will be done outside vehicles, so bring a tripod.

  
Detailed itinerary:

Monday, September 1: Arrival Day
Arrive in Fairbanks after flights from lower 48 states or other Alaska destinations. Hugh will provide a transfer for you to our first night’s lodging at the comfortable Grandview B&B, the finest B&B in Fairbanks! The Grandview is located on the outskirts of Fairbanks, on Chena Ridge, with spectacular views overlooking the Tanana Flats and Alaska Rage to the south. This beautiful log home has a large sitting room with panoramic vistas of the Alaska Range, a hot tub, sauna, and four tastefully appointed rooms. Other amenities include laundry facilities, a common area with TV and VCR, and internet access. A gourmet breakfast is ordered off the menu and served every morning before 10:00AM. Your hosts, Dave and Cloda, are fascinating people who have traveled and worked around the world.

Weather permitting a welcome dinner is planned for the deck at Pikes Place, and we will keep our eyes open for aurora borealis this first night.

Tuesday, September 2: Drive north to Wiseman and Igloo #8
After the hearty gourmet breakfast served in the dining room of the Grandview, we will depart by van driving north on what some people describe as the most scenic road in North America, the Dalton Highway. The Dalton Highway or “Haul Road”, as Alaskan truckers know it, was completed in 1974, so trucks could haul equipment and supplies to the recently discovered North Slope oil fields. The roughly 420-mile gravel road begins 100 miles north of Fairbanks and is the only road that traverses the Arctic Circle in the United States. The Highway traverses the White Mountains and miles of the interior Alaska boreal forest before crossing the mighty Yukon River at mile 58. From the Yukon River the Dalton climbs into the alpine country of the Caribou and Ray Mountains to cross scenic Finger Mountain. The epic wildfires of 2004 and 2005 (featured in National Geographic) swept through this area, leaving a stark and eerie landscape for many miles, but providing new habitat for moose and fertile ground for wildflowers. Shortly after Finger Mountain the road crosses the Arctic Circle and our crossing will be celebrated appropriately! Another hour of driving brings us to the south side of the Brooks Range, which should be covered with snow by this time. Blue skies and the snow capped rugged peaks of the Brooks Range should provide incredible opportunities for scenic photography! As we enter the Brooks Range, the Trans-Alaska Pipeline becomes apparent paralleling the road as it converges with the road corridor on adjacent steel pillars. Thirty miles further we will arrive at Coldfoot, the only truck stop on the five hundred miles of road between Fairbanks and Prudhoe Bay. Coldfoot was a gold mining town at the turn of the last century and has the distinction of recording the greatest range of temperatures of anywhere in the United States. Basically a truck stop, diner and hotel, Coldfoot is a unique look into the hard driving life of the truckers who make this 1,000 mile trip year round, even in the throws of winter when the temperatures reach 70 below zero!! Our destination for the day is Wiseman, a turn of the 20th Century gold mining town that offers a glimpse into the recent human history of this region.

Wiseman is located approximately 60 miles north of the Arctic Circle in the heart of the spectacular Brooks Range and the Igloo #8 Arctic Getaway offers the perfect base for the next few days of photography in the area. Proprietors, Berni and Uta Hicker, and their two children, Julia and Leo, extend legendary Arctic hospitality to our group and will supply all meals for the next two days. Accommodations at Igloo #8 may be considered slightly rustic, but are certainly cozy and comfortable. The main sleeping cabin features two kitchen areas and a single bathroom and shower that are shared by all occupants in this building. A second cabin provides additional bathroom and shower facilities, as well as more sleeping rooms. It still amazes us that a hot shower can be had in this wilderness setting! Meals are served family style in the kitchen/dining room of the old Wiseman Community Center and meeting house of the Pioneers of Alaska Igloo #8, the historic building owned and recently restored by Berni and Uta. After a hearty meal in the high Arctic, weather permitting, we will spend time out this evening in pursuit of the mysterious and beautiful aurora.

Aurora Borealis in the Brooks Range © Hugh Rose

A little bit about the aurora borealis:
The aurora borealis (also known as northern lights) is a phenomenon that occurs in a band at extreme northern latitudes. The southern lights, aurora australealis, make a southerly counterpart. The sky lights up with aurora when streams of electrons that are emitted from the sun in the form of solar flares or “the solar wind” impact molecules of gas found in the atmosphere of the earth. The impact of these electrons against gas molecules causes the gas to go into an unbalanced state of energy and the only way for the gas to become stable again is to give off energy in the form of light. The auroral band (an area from roughly 60 to 70 degrees north latitude in Alaska, where aurora is concentrated) is formed because the earth acts as a huge magnet and attracts the charged electrons to this specific location. Wiseman is located at roughly 67 degrees north latitude, an ideal location inside the auroral band for observing and photographing the lights. Aurora can occur at any time of year, but tends to peak around the equinoxes, making this an ideal time of year to visit this area. In addition, nights are just getting dark enough and long enough to allow for viewing of the aurora.

Wednesday, September 3: Exploring South side of the Brooks Range
Spend the day on the south side of the Brooks Range exploring the northernmost edge of the boreal forest, looking for lynx, fox, wolves, snowshoe hare, ptarmigan and moose. Weather and aurora permitting, you will have the opportunity to photograph this evening. Overnight at Igloo #8

Thursday, September 4: Drive to Prudhoe Bay and fly to Kaktovik
After an early breakfast, we depart on the 250-mile drive to Prudhoe Bay. This drive will take us over the 4,800-foot Atigun Pass, the highest road pass in Alaska, and the continental Divide of the Brooks Range. Descending onto the north side of the Brooks Range from Atigun Pass, we enter a different world devoid of trees but home to many species of Arctic wildlife. The Trans-Alaska Pipeline snakes over the open tundra parallel to the road and is a constant reminder of what lies at the end of the road on the coast of the Beaufort Sea in Prudhoe Bay. A full day is spent on this drive with ample time to stop and photograph any wildlife that we happen upon, as well as the endless scenic photo opportunities. At the end of the road lies “Deadhorse” or Prudhoe Bay, the hub of oilfield activity and our jumping off point for Kaktovik and Polar Bear viewing.

At approximately 3:30 PM we will board a twin-engine commercial aircraft for the 40-minute flight along the Beaufort Sea coast to the Inupiat Eskimo village of Kaktovik. Luggage weight and size will be restricted on this flight, so everyone will consolidate their gear and take only what is needed for the next three nights in Kaktovik. Gear should consist of only necessary camera equipment and a small duffel with tooth brush, change of underwear and an extra fleece or sweater.

The short (40 minute) flight to Kaktovik takes us over the spectacular Arctic coastal plain and the well known and controversial “1002” area of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge (ANWR). Depending on the altitude, we may see herds of Caribou, Muskoxen, Grizzly and Polar Bears. Upon arrival at Kaktovik in late afternoon, Walt Audi, the owner of "Waldo Arms", will meet us at the village airstrip. The Waldo Arms will be our home for the next 3 nights. Walt is an extremely interesting character, having flown as a bush pilot for 50 years in the Arctic. He makes a great host for our stay in Kaktovik. What Waldo Arms lacks in appearance it makes up for in hospitality and charm. Built from modular oilfield camp buildings, the inn is basic, yet comfortable. Accommodations are in double rooms with twin beds; bathrooms with showers are located down a short hall. All our meals are prepared and eaten in the café at Waldo Arms and are always tasty and with many choices. Our schedule will depend on weather and individual interests, but the best photography tends to be early in the morning and later in the evening, so we will try and schedule meals around our photographic forays! The remainder of this day we will settle in and get oriented with our surroundings and hopefully photograph bears!

A few words about Kaktovik:
Kaktovik is a native village inhabited by approximately 250 Inupiat “Eskimo” people who are endemic to this region of arctic Alaska. The village is located on Barter Island, a small 3 mile by 2 mile island, just off the Arctic coastline. Barter Island was an important stop for whalers at the turn of the last century, but did not become a permanent settlement for the semi-nomadic Inupiat people until 1923 with the establishment of a fur trading post by Tom Gordon. The island is characterized by a large saltwater lagoon located on the east side of the island, providing a sheltered anchorage for the village fishing boats. Downtown Kaktovik consists of a cluster of homes built on the barren tundra approximately one mile from the village airport. There are limited roads and vehicles in Kaktovik, but a vehicle is important for travel and photography of the Polar Bears. We will have the only rental vehicle available in Kaktovik and although it may not be pretty, it will be sufficient for the purpose. Keep in mind that we are visitors from a different culture to this village and our sense of time and schedule may be different than the Inuit’s. Experiencing the culture of the Inupiat is as much of an experience as watching the Polar Bears!

Why are Polar Bears in Kaktovik?
The circumpolar indigenous people of the world have been hunting marine mammals and whales for thousands of years and the Inupiat of Alaska are no different. In a very tightly controlled hunt, Arctic coastal villages are allowed to hunt Bowhead Whales, which frequent the waters of the adjacent Beaufort Sea/Arctic Ocean. A whale harvest quota is awarded to each village according to number of residents and Kaktovik is allowed three strikes on bowhead whales per hunting season. This means that if a whale is struck and escapes, they are only allowed to hunt two other whales for that season.

The domain of the Polar Bear is not the beaches and tundra of the Arctic coast, but the pack ice that covers the sea surface for 9 months of the year. Polar Bears feed mainly on seals that live on and under the Arctic ice, hunting them using a number of different techniques. Like their cousins, the Brown Bears, from whom they evolved, Polar Bears can be opportunistic at times of hunger and will feed on whatever food opportunities appear. Other food sources can include vegetation, such as grass, small rodents, bird eggs, other marine mammals and scavenging on carrion. Polar Bears are attracted to Barter Island to scavenge on the carcasses of butchered whales, and begin to arrive in Kaktovik before the whale hunt begins on Labor Day each year. In mid summer when the Arctic pack ice moves off shore, Beaufort Sea Polar Bears are often marooned on shore where there is little to eat. These bears enter the fall season hungry from lack of readily available food and have keyed into the presence of whale carcasses on Barter Island, starting in September. A bear’s memory is so good they will remember the time and place where food was available and return to that same spot the next year at the same time. For this reason Kaktovik has become an ideal and consistent place to view and photograph Polar Bears in the wild. The bears typically arrive in late August before the whale hunt begins, and will scavenge on the remains of whale carcasses from previous year’s hunts. We will be visiting Kaktovik during the annual hunt and if we are fortunate, we may witness the community event that surrounds the harvesting of a whale.

Friday, Sept. 5 - Saturday, Sept. 6: Photography and bear viewing, Kaktovik
These two days will be spent viewing and photographing bears and other wildlife that inhabits Barter Island. Some bears wander into the village and can be seen prowling down streets early in the morning, however, we will drive to beaches where bears can be photographed in their natural environment. If we are fortunate, we may see and photograph other animals and birds, such as Arctic Fox, Red Fox, and even Grizzly Bear! We will have opportunities to explore all the roads on Barter Island in our search for bears and other wildlife. If we are fortunate, we may have the privilege of witnessing the Bowhead Whale harvest. If this is the case, we will be allowed to watch and photograph this amazing centuries old Inupiat tradition. Observing and photographing this cultural event will be completely up to you as the travelers, but this would be a unique opportunity to watch something that few have ever seen. We will have to exercise cultural awareness on this subject and may not be able to photograph all the people involved, but we can ask where photos are permissible.

Sunday, September 7: Kaktovik, return to Prudhoe
This will be a long day and our last opportunity to observe and photograph the bears. Before breakfast we will head out on our last bear viewing foray, spending a few hours before breakfast out on the tundra. Depending on morning flight times, we will depart Waldo Arms & board our flight back to Prudhoe Bay.

Upon arrival in Prudhoe we will drive over to Prudhoe Bay Hotel (PBH) and check in for our night’s accommodations. Built as a camp for visiting oilfield workers, PBH provides very good food and comfortable lodging for the night, as well as being a cultural experience! After leaving our gear at PBH, we will set off down the Haul Road to photograph some of the Arctic scenes and wildlife that can be found in the area. This afternoon will give us an opportunity to find and photograph Muskoxen and Caribou in afternoon and sunset light. Return to PBH for dinner and the evening.

Monday, Sept. 8: Photography on the Arctic Coastal Plain and return to Wiseman
After a hearty all you can eat breakfast in the PBH dining room, we will pack our bags and start our drive south towards Wiseman and Igloo #8. Our goal on this day is to catch the coastal plain and whatever wildlife we can find in morning light. This time of year the sunrise light is exquisite and lingers throughout the day into sunset. We still have a long drive ahead and with photography stops will not reach Wiseman until later in the evening. After sunset we will keep our eyes peeled for the aurora, as this may be an excellent opportunity for aurora photography.

Tuesday, September 9: Photography around Wiseman
Enjoy a relaxing day and a final opportunity to photograph and explore this fascinating area for its scenic beauty and the many historical gold mining artifacts around Wiseman. This evening will be our final night for possible aurora viewing and photography in the Brooks Range.

Wednesday, September 10: Drive Haul Road South, Return to Fairbanks
After breakfast we say good-byes to Berni and Uta, and have some time to wander around Wiseman to take final photos before departure south to Fairbanks. As with every day, we will maximize wildlife viewing and photographic opportunities during the day of travel. Upon arrival in Fairbanks, we will check in at the Grandview Bed and Breakfast, get cleaned up from a day on the road, and head out to our farewell dinner at a fine local restaurant.

Thursday, September 11: Flights home
After breakfast this morning Hugh will drive you to the Fairbanks Airport for your flights home. If you would like to stay longer in Alaska, contact us, or Hugh directly, for suggestions.

Reservations: Please contact us first to check space availability, then send a check or wire for $750 ($150 nonrefundable) per person to:

Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris
20800 Kittredge Road
Saratoga, CA 95070-6322

Telephone: (800) 527-5330
Locally (408) 741-5330
Fax: (408) 741-0358

Hugh Rose can be contacted at:
620 Yak Road
Fairbanks, AK 99709
907-479-8984 (home)
907-388-2554 (cell)
hrose@alaska.net

Payments & Cancellations: After the initial deposit of $750 per person, the final payment will be due on June 1, 2008. Up until the final payment on June 1, 2009, payments are refundable, except for $150. This amount may go toward another tour if the new reservation is made within six months of the cancelled trips departure date. No refunds are given after the final payment.

Travel Insurance: Unless you specifically decline travel insurance, Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris requires, at a minimum, insurance to cover emergency medical care and evacuation for the duration of the tour. We have had good experience with Access America. Visit their website for complete details and we will also send you their brochure with your trip materials. You can purchase a policy via their website, phone or by mail. If you choose, separate trip cancellation insurance to cover trip costs is also available. Whatever insurance you purchase, be sure to review the terms of all available policies carefully in order to buy the policy that you need.

Preparing: Even though it is early September, weather can be winter-like and temperatures could range significantly. Instruction on winter and Arctic wildlife photography, as well as aurora photography, will be provided through out the trip. Advice on suitable camera gear and personal gear for traveling and photographing in the Arctic will be given to all trip participants.

Included: Airport transfers in Fairbanks, all accommodations in Alaska, including Grand View B&B, Igloo #8, Prudhoe Bay Hotel, and Waldo Arms in Kaktovik, all meals from dinner on September 1 to breakfast on September 11. All transportation on the trip, flights to and from Kaktovik, beer and wine at Igloo #8, and all tipping are all covered in the cost of the trip.

Not Included: Flights to and from Fairbanks and money for purchases of souvenir items. Alcoholic beverages are neither included, nor served, in Prudhoe Bay and Kaktovik.
In the unlikely event of weather delaying the departure from Kaktovik, there will be an additional fee of $150 per day/night. This covers the additional cost for vehicle rental (because you will want to go out and enjoy the surroundings and photograph) and the much higher cost for lodging in Kaktovik relative to Wiseman or Prudhoe. If there is a delay due to weather, Hugh and we will absorb some of the extra cost, but we can't absorb all of it. The chances are good that you will be able to fly from Kaktovik, either
by scheduled flight or charter, but in case there is a day where the fog never lifts, we want you to know the amount that we would ask you to contribute for the extra expenses.

Conservation: The Arctic National Wildlife Refuge is a national treasure in great peril of being opened for oil extraction. Please help us stop this wasteful disregard of our natural heritage by taking action through the Arctic Refuge Action Coalition. We further urge you to join a conservation organization to help protect Alaskan wildlife, such as Defenders of Wildlife, the Wilderness Society, and the Audubon Society.

Responsibility: Cheesemans’ Ecology Safaris, Saratoga, California, act only as agents and shall not be responsible or become liable for any delay incurred by any person in connection with any means of transportation, nor for the loss, damage, or injury to person or property by reason of any event beyond the control of the agency or default of such agency suppliers. We reserve the right to cancel the tour prior to departure in which case full refund will constitute full settlement to the passenger. No refund will be made for any unused portion of the tour unless arrangements are made at the time of booking. All rates are based on current tariffs and exchange rates and are subject to adjustment in the event of any change therein. By sending your initial deposit, you agree to accept our payment schedule as a contract. If payments are still outstanding two weeks after the due date, your space may be forfeited. Baggage is at the owner’s risk.

Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris is registered as California Seller of Travel #2063050-40. Registration as a seller of travel does not constitute approval by the State of California. All payments for transportation or travel service not provided to the passenger shall be promptly refunded, in accordance with terms described above, unless the passenger otherwise instructs us, in writing. All client payments are deposited into a trust account in accordance with California law. This business is a participant in the Travel Consumer Restitution Corporation (TCRC). We will always make due refunds in a timely manner, as we have for over twenty years. However, if we didn't, you, the passenger, may request reimbursement from the TCRC within six months of the scheduled end of the tour. Please feel free to ask us for more information.
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