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Alaska
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| September 1 | Arrive in Fairbanks |
| September 2 | Drive north to Wiseman |
| September 3 | Explore the South Side of the Brooks Range |
| September 4 | Drive from Brooks Range to Prudhoe then Fly to a Native Village |
| September 5 - 6 | Enjoy wildlife photography and bear viewing |
| September 7 | Return to Prudhoe and then Wiseman |
| September 8 | Explore Around Wiseman |
| September 9 | Drive the Haul Road South to Fairbanks |
| September 10 | Depart for home |
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September 1, Wednesday Arrive in Fairbanks
Travelers arrive in Fairbanks after flights from the lower 48 states or other Alaska
destinations and are met at the airport by Hugh. Our first night will be spent at a
comfortable B&B in Fairbanks (Grand View B&B). If participants choose to arrive
early, contact us to make arrangements for additional pre-trip nights at Grand View in
Fairbanks. Additionally, early arrivals will be responsible for their own airport transfers.
The Grandview is located on the outskirts of Fairbanks, on Chena Ridge, with spectacular views overlooking the Tanana Flats and Alaska Rage to the south. This beautiful log home has a large sitting room with panoramic vistas of the Alaska Range, a hot tub, and four tastefully appointed rooms. Other amenities include laundry facilities, a common area with TV and VCR, and internet access. A gourmet breakfast is ordered off the menu and served every morning between 8:00 and 10:00AM or earlier by request. Your hosts Dave and Clodagh are fascinating people who have traveled and worked around the world. A welcome dinner is planned at a local restaurant, and you can watch for Aurora Borealis from the deck of the Grand View on this first night.
September 2, Thursday Drive north to Wiseman
After a hearty gourmet breakfast we will depart on our drive north on what some people describe as the most scenic road in North America, the Dalton Highway. The Dalton Highway or "Haul Road" as it is known to Alaskan truckers was completed in 1974, so trucks could haul equipment and supplies to the recently discovered Prudhoe Bay oil fields. The roughly 420 mile gravel road begins one hundred miles north of Fairbanks and is the only road that traverses the Arctic Circle in the United States. The Highway traverses the White Mountains and miles of the interior Alaska Boreal forest before crossing the mighty Yukon River at mile 58. Hillsides along these first one hundred miles of driving should still be carpeted with a blaze of fall color that we will see fade into early winter browns as we make our way north. From the Yukon River the Dalton climbs into the alpine country of the Caribou and Ray Mountains to cross scenic Finger Mountain. The epic wildfires of 2004 (featured in National Geographic) swept through this area, leaving a stark and eerie landscape for many miles, but providing new habitat for Moose and fertile ground for wildflowers. Shortly after Finger Mountain the road crosses the Arctic Circle and our crossing will be celebrated appropriately! Another hour of driving brings us to the south side of the Brooks Range, which will still be covered with a blanket of intense autumn color. The yellow of cottonwoods and birches, the red of blueberries and the orange of dwarf birch will be fading into the browns and whites of early winter in this spectacular landscape and provide for great scenic photography! As we enter the Brooks Range, the Trans-Alaska Pipeline, which parallels the haul road, becomes more apparent as it converges with the road corridor and stands on steel pillars adjacent to the road. Thirty miles further driving and we will arrive at Coldfoot, the only truck stop on the five hundred miles of road between Fairbanks and Prudhoe Bay. Coldfoot was a gold mining town at the turn of the last century and has the distinction of recording the greatest range of temperatures of anywhere in the United States. Basically a truck stop, diner and hotel, Coldfoot is a unique look into the hard driving life of the truckers who make this 1,000 mile trip year round, even in the throws of winter when the temperatures reach 70 below zero!! Our destination for the day is Wiseman, a turn of the 20th Century gold mining town that offers a glimpse into the recent human history of this region.
Wiseman is located approximately 60 miles north of the Arctic Circle in the heart of the spectacular Brooks Range and is the perfect base for the next few days of exploration and photography in the area. Accommodations in Wiseman may be considered slightly rustic, but are certainly cozy and comfortable. There is a main sleeping cabin that has three bedrooms, a large living area with kitchen facilities and a single bathroom with shower that is shared by all occupants. A second sleeping cabin features two bedrooms with queen beds, a sitting area and bathroom with shower shared by the occupants of this building. It still amazes us that a hot shower can be had in this wilderness setting! Meals are served family style in the dance hall of the old Wiseman community center.
Aurora Borealis
in the Brooks Range
©Hugh Rose
About the aurora borealis: The Aurora Borealis or Northern Lights are a phenomenon that occurs occasionally in a band at extreme north and south latitudes (Southern Lights or Aurora Australealis). The northern sky lights up when streams of electrons that are emitted from the sun in the form of solar flares or "the solar wind" impact molecules of gas found in the atmosphere of the earth. The impact of these electrons against gas molecules causes the gas to go into an unbalanced state of energy and the only way for the gas to become stable again is to give off energy in the form of light. The Auroral Band (an area from roughly 60 to 70 degrees north latitude in Alaska, where aurora is concentrated) is formed, because the earth acts as a huge magnet and attracts the charged electrons to this specific location. Wiseman is located at roughly 67 degrees north latitude inside the Auroral Band and makes an ideal location for observing and photographing the lights. Aurora can occur at any time of year, but tends to peak around the equinoxes, making this an ideal time of year to visit this area. In addition nights are just getting dark enough and long enough to allow for viewing of the Aurora.
September 3, Friday Explore the South Side of the Brooks Range
This morning we will enjoy a more leisurely breakfast while we get to know our new surroundings. After breakfast set out to explore the northern edge of the boreal forest as it extends northward from Wiseman, deep into the heart of the central Brooks Range. We will drive north from Wiseman keeping an eye out for some of the inhabitants of the boreal forest such as, moose, wolves and grizzly bears. As we journey further north deeper into the Brooks Range, we will watch the boreal forest thin, until eventually reaching the far northern edge of the forest at Chandalar Shelf, some 60 miles north of Wiseman. Traces of the dazzling fall color will still be evident here on the south side of the Brooks Range as isolated pockets of brilliant red, orange and yellow. We will go as far as time and interest take us today, but we will wait to venture into the alien landscape of the North Slope until the following day. Return to Wiseman in time to eat a great meal. Weather permitting, we will be watching for Aurora tonight, but not too late, as the following morning will see us getting an early start for our drive north to the Arctic coast to catch our flight from Prudhoe Bay!
September 4, Saturday Drive from Brooks Range to Prudhoe then Fly to a Native Village
After an early breakfast, we depart on the 240 mile drive to Prudhoe Bay. This drive will take us over the 4,800 foot Atigun Pass, the highest road pass in Alaska, and the continental Divide of the Brooks Range. Descending onto the north side of the Brooks Range from Atigun Pass, we enter a different world devoid of trees and home to many species of Arctic wildlife. The Trans-Alaska Pipeline snakes over the open tundra parallel to the road and is a constant reminder of what lies at the end of the road on the coast of the Beaufort Sea in Prudhoe Bay. We spend a full day on this drive with some time to stop and photograph wildlife that we happen upon, as well as the endless scenic photo opportunities. We are destination oriented, however, as we have to get to Prudhoe Bay in time to catch our late afternoon flight to the native village, where we will be watching Polar Bears for the next few days. This means we may have to pass by some scenic photographic opportunities in order to not miss our flight. At the end of the road lies "Deadhorse" or Prudhoe Bay, the hub of oilfield activity and the location of the airport where we will board our flight.
Upon arrival in Prudhoe Bay, we will proceed directly to the Prudhoe Bay Airport and get checked in for our flight. Luggage weight and size will be restricted on this flight to 70 pounds total (including camera gear), so everyone will consolidate their gear and take only what is needed for the next three nights in the Arctic. Gear should consist of necessary camera equipment and a small duffel with tooth brush, change of underwear and cold weather gear. Arctic weather conditions will be encountered, so suitable clothing and gear will be needed. See the gear list at the end of this itinerary for a sample clothing and gear list.
The short (40 minute) flight takes us over the spectacular Arctic coastal plain and the well known, if not controversial, "1002" area of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge (ANWR). Depending on the altitude flown at, we may see herds of Caribou, Muskoxen, Grizzly Bears and Polar Bears. Upon arrival in the Native Village in late afternoon, we will be transported from the village airstrip to our accommodations for the next three nights. Although our lodgings are not luxury, what they lack in appearance is made up for in hospitality and a certain charm. Built from modular oilfield camp buildings, the Inn is basic yet comfortable. Accommodations are in double rooms with twin beds; bathrooms with showers are located down a short hall. All our meals are prepared and eaten in the cafe located on site and are always hearty and tasty! Our schedule will depend on weather and individual interests, but the best photography tends to be early in the morning and later in the evening, so we will try and schedule meals around our photographic forays! The remainder of this day we will settle in and get oriented with our surroundings and hopefully see and photograph bears!
About the native village: We will be visiting a native village inhabited by approximately 250 Inupiat "Eskimo" people who are endemic to this region of arctic Alaska. The village is located on a small 3 mile by 2 mile island just off the arctic coastline. This Island was an important stop for whalers at the turn of the last century, but did not become a permanent settlement for the semi-nomadic Inupiat people until 1923 with the establishment of a fur trading post. The island is characterized by a large saltwater lagoon that is located on the east side of the island and provides a sheltered anchorage for the village fishing boats. The downtown consists of a cluster of homes built on the barren tundra approximately one mile from the village airport. There are limited roads and vehicles located in this village, but a vehicle is important for travel and photography of the Polar Bears. We will have the only rental vehicle available and although it may not be pretty, it will be sufficient for the purpose. Keep in mind that we are visitors from a different culture to this village, and our sense of time and schedule may be different than the Inuit's. Experiencing the culture of the Inupiat is as much of an experience as watching the Polar Bears!
Why are Polar Bears here? The circumpolar indigenous people of the world have been hunting marine mammals and whales for thousands of years and the Inupiat of Alaska are no different. In a very tightly controlled hunt, arctic coastal villages are allowed to hunt the Bowhead Whale, which frequent the waters of the adjacent Beaufort Sea/Arctic Ocean. A whale harvest quota is awarded to each village according to number of residents and the historic harvest.
The Inupiat name for the polar bear is "Nanook" and the domain of Nanook is not the beaches and tundra of the arctic coast, but the pack ice that covers the sea surface for 9 months of the year. Polar Bears feed mainly on seals that live on and under the arctic ice, hunting them using a number of different techniques. Like their cousins the brown bears from whom they evolved, during times of hunger, Polar Bears can be opportunistic and will feed on whatever food opportunities appear. Other food sources can include vegetation, such as grass, small rodents, bird eggs, other marine mammals and scavenging on carrion. Polar Bears are attracted to this area to scavenge on the carcasses of butchered whales, and begin to arrive here before the whale hunt begins on Labor Day each year. In mid summer when the arctic pack ice moves off shore, Beaufort Sea Polar Bears are often marooned on shore where there is little to eat. These bears enter the fall season hungry from lack of readily available food and have keyed into the presence of whale carcasses in this area starting in September. A bear's memory is so good they will remember the time and place where food was available and return to that same spot the next year at the same time. The bears typically arrive in late August before the whale hunt begins, and will scavenge on the remains of whale carcasses from previous year's hunts. We will be visiting this area during the annual hunt and if we are fortunate, we may witness the community event that surrounds the harvesting of a whale.
September 5 - 6, Sunday - Monday Enjoy wildlife photography and bear viewing
These two days will be spent viewing and photographing bears and other wildlife that inhabits this area. Some bears wander into the village and can be seen prowling down streets early in the morning, however we will drive to beaches where bears can be photographed more in their natural environment. If we are fortunate, we may see and photograph other animals and birds, such as Snowy Owl, Arctic Fox, and even Grizzly Bear! We will have opportunities to explore all the roads in this area during our search for bears and other wildlife. If we are fortunate, we may have the privilege of witnessing the Bowhead Whale harvest. If this is the case, we will be allowed to watch and photograph this amazing Inupiat tradition. Observing and photographing this cultural event will be completely up to you as the travelers, but this would be a unique opportunity to watch something that few have ever seen. We will have to exercise cultural awareness on this subject and may not be able to photograph all the people involved, but we can ask where photos are permissible.
Muskoxen ©Hugh Rose
September 7, Tuesday Return to Prudhoe and then Wiseman
This will be a long day of travel and our last opportunity to observe and photograph the bears. After breakfast we will head out on our last bear viewing foray, spending until mid morning out on the tundra. We board our airplane for the flight back to Prudhoe Bay at 10:30 AM and arrive in Prudhoe in time for lunch (see special travel note in the information section at the end of this itinerary). Upon arrival in Prudhoe, we will pick up a picnic lunch and start our drive south towards Wiseman as soon as we can. Our goal is to spend time exploring the area of coastal plain that we had to pass by earlier in the trip on our way to catch the flight. This will be one of our best opportunities to photograph Muskoxen and we will make sure that we leave time to spend with these amazing prehistoric creatures. In addition we will be watching for other wildlife in this stunning landscape, such as Caribou, Grizzly Bear, Moose, Arctic Fox, Red Fox, and Wolf. This time of year the sunset light is endless and the day lingers late into the evening hours. We still have a long drive ahead and with photography stops will not reach Wiseman until later in the evening. After the sun sets, we will keep our eyes peeled for the aurora, as this may be an excellent opportunity for aurora photography!
September 8, Wednesday Explore Around Wiseman
The beginning of this day will be marked by a leisurely morning in order to give everyone an opportunity to rest after the previous long day of travel and aurora viewing. After breakfast we will set out to explore the environs around Wiseman and on the south side of the Brooks Range. We can focus on whatever interests you, whether it is the mining history of the Wiseman area or looking for large mammals on the south side of the Brooks Range! This evening will be spent searching the night skies for aurora and finding the ideal locations to photograph aurora from.
September 9, Thursday Drive the Haul Road South to Fairbanks
The beginning of this day will be marked by a hearty breakfast after which we will have some time to wander around Wiseman and take any final photos of the historic town, before we depart south for Fairbanks. As usual we will maximize wildlife viewing and photographic opportunities during this day of travel. Upon arrival in Fairbanks, check in at the Grand View B&B, get cleaned up from a day on the road and head out to our farewell dinner at a fine local restaurant.
September 10, Friday Depart for home
After breakfast this morning you will be transported to the Fairbanks Airport for
your flights home.
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Costs, Payments and Cancellations: Upon receiving your deposit, we will send trip materials, including a travel guide with trip essentials, reading list, species lists, and maps. Deposits are refundable before the final payment date, except for $150. The $150 may go toward another tour if a reservation is made within six months of the departure date of this trip. There are no refunds given after the final payment. Trip cancellation insurance applications are available. Trip options, if any, and singles are extra.
| Cost per Person | |
| Trip cost, double occupancy | $5800 |
| Payment Schedule | |
| Deposit - to reserve your space | $750 |
| June 1, 2010 - final payment | remaining balance |
Included:
Not Included:
Disclaimer: : In the unlikely event that weather delays the departure from the native village, there will be an additional fee of $150 per day/night. This covers the additional cost for vehicle rental and the higher cost for lodging relative to Wiseman or Prudhoe. If there is weather delay, Hugh and Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris will absorb some of the extra cost, but we can't absorb all of it.
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Reservations: Please contact us to assure space availability and to let us answer your questions. Then, print our reservation form, fill it out, and post it to us in the mail with your deposit:
Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris
20800 Kittredge Road
Saratoga, CA 95070
Toll Free: (800) 527-5330
Local: (408) 741-5330
Fax: (408) 741-0358
Email: info@cheesemans.com
Flights: Your flights should arrive in Fairbanks no later than 4:30 PM on September 1 in order to arrive in time for our orientation dinner. Hugh will pick up people who arrive in Fairbanks on September 1 and transport them to the B&B. Anyone who chooses to arrive before September 1, should contact us for independent arrangements for ground transport. In addition, if anyone plans to arrive early, please contact us for information on how to arrange additional nights in Fairbanks.
Your flights should departure from Fairbanks on the September 10, or later if you plan on staying afterwards.
Travel Insurance and Safety: Your safety while on the trip is Hugh's top concern! Most activities will be dictated to some degree by the weather and safety is always paramount. However it is important to remember that a good part of this trip takes place in the wilderness of the Brooks Range, far from hospital services. Although Hugh will take great care to ensure your safety, accidents do happen. We recommend that you purchase a travel insurance policy that includes evacuation coverage in the unlikely event that you do need to be medi-vacced from a remote location. Remember, hiking and exploring in a wilderness environment does contain inherent risk, so use common sense! Please think before engaging in any "risky" behavior and know that Hugh will be giving safety briefings throughout the trip.
Unless you specifically decline travel insurance, Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris requires, at a minimum, insurance to cover emergency medical care and evacuation for the duration of the tour. We have had good experience with Access America. Visit their website for complete details and we will also send you their brochure with your trip materials. You can purchase a policy via their website, phone or by mail. Whatever insurance you purchase, be sure to review the terms of all available policies carefully in order to buy the policy that you need.
Hugh Rose
Leader: Exceptional resident naturalist and wonderful personality, Hugh Rose, will guide throughout. Hugh has led Alaska trips since 1991 receiving unending praise for his amazing knowledge, attention to details and everyone's needs. He has a grasp on all aspects of Alaskan natural history from in-depth bird behavior to geology. He is a professional photographer and also on our Antarctica staff. Dean Rand is captain of the Discovery and knows Prince William Sound and all its special places probably better than anyone else after more than twenty years of experience on Alaska's waters.
Climate: You are traveling to the high Arctic in fall!! Keep in mind the Arctic has ever changing weather with temperatures that can swing from below freezing to warm in a matter of hours at this time of year. Expect daytime temperatures in the 40's (perhaps as high as the 60's) with nights below freezing. Both rain and/or snow are possible as well, so think layers when packing starting with a waterproof and windproof outer shell with layers of wool or fleece underneath. Warm hat and gloves are essential, as are liner gloves for photography! Be prepared for rainy cool weather. Dressing in layers is very helpful, as you can remove or add as the temperature dictates.
Money: Travelers Checks cash or credit cards all work just about everywhere in Alaska! If you want to buy any kind of native art work or other souvenirs to take home, Hugh would recommend carrying some amount of cash for these purchases, as credit cards will not be accepted in any of the remote locations we visit.
Telephone Service: There is standard phone and cellular phone communication-service in Fairbanks and Prudhoe Bay; however, in Wiseman at the native village phone service is limited to a coin less pay phone.
Laundry: Laundry is available in Fairbanks and may be available in the Native Village.
Luggage: Please take into consideration that you will be traveling by van and be living in a small space. Please use soft-sided duffel bags and limit your bags to at most two medium sized bags per person and a camera bag.
Clothes and Gear: Being prepared for all weather conditions by dressing in layers, the key to comfort, and packing smart is the key to being prepared. Start with a thin base layer. Either capilene or merino wool works best. Products such as Patagonia capilene base layer and/or Icebreaker or Ibex merino wool work great. Hugh prefers the merino wool products, as the merino wool is soft on the skin and takes on no body odors. This allows for wearing these garments longer between washes. On top of your base layer you want a medium weight polar fleece or merino pullover and a heavier weight zip-up fleece to go over that. People who suffer more from the cold should consider a lightweight down sweater or jacket to put over these layers. The final "top" layer should be a waterproof (either Gore-Tex or equivalent), breathable jacket that acts as both a raincoat and windproof layer. You can finish your layering with some kind of warm hat and gloves. For those doing photography a pair of thin fleece gloves work best, so you can operate all your camera controls with gloves on! After we receive your reservation deposit, we will send you a clothing and gear packing list.
Mailing List: If you would like to be on our mailing list or request information, please use our online request form or send us your name, address, email address and phone number. Please note we will never share your personal information with anybody!
Responsibility: Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris, Saratoga, California, act only as agents and shall not be responsible or become liable for any delay incurred by any person in connection with any means of transportation, nor for the loss, damage, or injury to person or property by reason of any event beyond the control of the agency or default of such agency suppliers. We reserve the right to cancel the tour prior to departure in which case full refund will constitute full settlement to the passenger. No refund will be made for any unused portion of the tour unless arrangements are made at the time of booking. All rates are based on current tariffs, exchange rates and fuel prices and are subject to adjustment in the event of any change therein. By sending your initial deposit, you agree to accept our payment schedule as a contract. If payments are still outstanding two weeks after the due date, your space may be forfeited. Baggage is at the owner's risk.
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