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Our Blog from Antarctic RegionsIf you traveled with us to Antarctica, we would enjoy posting your memorable experiences here, simply your paragraph and photo to us. Blog Topics: (read our complete blog).
Our Tribute to The BossPosted June 23, 2011
Excerpt from the trip log by Ali Liddle
Our visit to the historical whaling station at Grytviken was a highlight for many, especially for those interested in the Heroic Age of Polar Exploration. Grytviken was established as the island's first whaling station in 1904. Many of us headed to the cemetery to visit the final resting place of Sir Ernest Shackleton who died in South Georgia in 1922 after a most remarkable life of exploration. Sir Ernest Shackleton is most famous for his extraordinary effort to save the lives of all his men after their ship, The Endurance, was crushed in sea ice. His expedition to cross the Antarctic continent by dogsled sailed south in 1915, but upon reaching the Weddell Sea in January, found the sea ice was forming early freezing the ship in the ice. With no hope for escape, the crew settled in to wait out the long Antarctic winter. When spring finally arrived in September, the breaking up of the ice put extreme pressure on the ship's hull – The Endurance finally succumbed and sank to its icy grave in November. For almost two months more, the frightened crew marched and camped on large ice floes as they drifted northward. In April, their worst nightmare came true as the floe crumbled under their feet as Shackleton ordered them into the lifeboats that they laboriously dragged with them. After five long days at sea, they arrived at Elephant Island at the tip of the Antarctic Peninsula. They were now on solid ground for the first time in almost 500 days. Since Elephant Island is far from any shipping routes and settlements and his men were in bad shape, Shackleton and five sailors, outfitted the strongest of the lifeboats, the James Caird, and sailed 800 miles through a hurricane and the inhospitable seas of the Southern Ocean for fifteen harrowing days to South Georgia. They finally landed in May and after a few days of recuperation Shackleton decided to chance a land route with two of his men up and over the dangerous mountainous spine of the island to Stromness, a whaling station, on the opposite coast. After a 36-hour journey, they were welcomed to Stromness by the unbelieving station manager. Shackleton sent a boat back to rescue the three men he left on the other Coast of South Georgia. He also immediately started work on a plan to rescue the men waiting on Elephant Island. After three attempts at rescue, he finally rescued his men in August. Most amazingly, Shackleton didn't loose any of his men during this most famous and unbelievable story of bravery. We all gathered at the cemetery surrounding the grave of "The Boss", as Shackleton was fondly known, to raise a small customary tot of whiskey to his monumental achievement as a leader of men. Pauline Carr spoke at the grave side and the words of Russel Owen sent shivers down our spines, "For scientific leadership give me Scott, for swift and efficient travel give me Amundsen but when you are in a hopeless position, when there seems no way out, get down on your knees and pray for Shackleton." He was held in high regard by all and had the admiration of everyone who had gathered to honor a great man. Note: There are many books about Shackleton's amazing journey, one of the best is Carolyn Alexander's The Endurance: Shackleton's Legendary Antarctic Expedition, which contains many photos taken during the expedition. Toast Shackleton at his graveside during our expeditions to the Antarctic Peninsula, South Georgia, and Falkland Islands in December 2011 and South Georgia in October 2012. Learn more about the historical aspects of our South Georgia visits. Return to top Good Morning Shipmates!Posted May 9, 2011
Excerpt from the trip log by David Shaw "Good Morning Shipmates!" Ted Cheeseman's words reverberated through the speakers at 6:30 am as they would each morning during this extraordinary Antarctic expedition. I peered out my window to find a stiff breeze lifting white caps on the waters of the bay. But beyond the light chop lay the grassy hills of New Island, part of the Falkland Islands, our first landing on this expedition of a lifetime. By 7:45 am the staff were whipping off to shore in the zodiacs soon followed by the first load of passengers. Despite the light sea chop, the wind on shore was only slight and everyone soon began climbing up to the far side of the island to experience our first colony of seabirds. As we soon learned, visiting a seabird colony is an olfactory experience as much as visual one; before we could even see the birds we could smell them. The rich smell of penguin, albatross, and cormorant guano filled the air and kept our imaginations in overdrive. When we reached the top of hill overlooking a gully the thousands of Rockhopper Penguins, Black-browed Albatross, and Blue-eyed Shags filled our senses. They were tucked in amongst the tussock grasses and rocks, and lined the tall sides of the cliffs that formed the sides of the narrow gully. Striated Caracaras were nesting in the cliffs and kept a keen eye on the colony for unwary prey. Giant Petrels and Snowy Sheathbills patrolled the area for carrion. Many of us braved the steep slippery slopes and rocks to climb back down to the base of the gully at the shoreline where small groups of Rockhopper Penguins were launching themselves from the water onto the rocks in synchronicity with the heavy surf. We were captivated! These penguins are aptly named as they amazingly climbed up the side of the rocky cliff to their nests at the top to deliver a precious cargo – food for tiny chicks. We also watched a huge bull Southern Sea Lion as he patrolled the turbulent waves searching the kelp beds for octopus and squid, and sometimes even an unweary penguin. He lifted his enormous head from the water to give us, what I judged to be, a rather skeptical look.
The few hours we had did not feel like enough to many and some left the cliffs of birds very reluctantly. But it was only the start of our day! Most of us decided to walk to the second seabird colony as the morning's clouds turned into skies dominated by blue that painted cloud shadows across the green hillsides of the island and blue waters of the South Atlantic. When I finally reached the second colony of Black-browed Albatross, Rockhopper and Gentoo Penguins, and Blue-eyed Shags many photographers were already lined-up and composing images of the thousands of birds. The light just got better as the hours passed. It was a delight for the photographers and I could feel the excitement in the air. Everyone was grinning! Wouldn't you smile too if you were surrounded by courting albatross lit by beautiful light? We all hoped that the remainder of our expedition landings would be as wonderful as this first one. Note: New Island is high on our list of the best stops on the Falkland Islands during our Antarctic Peninsula, South Georgia, and Falkland Islands adventure for 29 days, December 29, 2011 to January 26, 2012. Return to top In Search of WhiskersPosted March 24, 2011 by Phillip Colla
This morning we awake anchored in Fortuna Bay. Some early-birds opt for a 6 am landing, while others wait until after breakfast to go ashore. I go early. The beach has many fur seals and king penguins, more broadly spread about than what we saw yesterday. It is very overcast, and the light is low. The animals are soaking wet, as is the grass in which the fur seals bed down. I decide to shoot portraits, using as much lens as I have. My goal is to illustrate the long whiskers that are characteristic of Antarctic fur seals. The fur seals use these whiskers when foraging for food, although the exact sense that the whiskers provide is not yet fully known. The whiskers may serve as a crude form of close-proximity radar at depths so great there is no light, providing exceptionally sensitive touch for sensing vibration in the water caused by their prey: squid and fish. Most of the group arrives after breakfast by which time the fog is lifting and it is getting brighter. Above us, on the lower slopes of the mountains that tower above Fortuna Bay, is a small herd of reindeer and an area with nesting terns. I hike about 300-400' up to see the reindeer, and am surprised to find many fur seals that have settled down on the grassy slopes high above the beach. Why do they feel the need to climb so high? It must be for the view. After returning down to the beach I sit down to watch a group of king penguins, several of whom approach me so closely I can photograph a single king penguin's head full-frame. Their plumage is really something to behold. What great birds. There are fur seal pups scattered among the tussock grass and playing in small pockets of water on the beach. I find one leucistic antarctic fur seal pup, so lacking in pigmentation that it appears blond. We will only see a few leucistic fur seals this entire trip since they are quite uncommon. Note: After you read potographer Phillip Colla's in-depth and entertaining report with great photography from our last expedition to Antarctica you won't be able to resist signing up for our next expedition starting December 2011. Return to top Chaos of MovementPosted February 10, 2011
Excerpt from the trip log by David Shaw The talk around the extra-early breakfast tables concentrated on whether the swell passing under the ship would be enough to dissuade a landing on enigmatic Baily Head on Deception Island home to over 200,000 nesting Chinstrap Penguin pairs. The answer soon came across the staff's radios: "it's doable!" The excitement pulsed through the ship as everyone prepared to go ashore. The center of circular Deception Island is a caldera formed in a huge long-ago eruption and is now flooded to form a large bay. The bay has a narrow entrance only 755 feet wide, called Neptune's Bellows. The volcanic island had recent eruptions in 1967 and 1969 that caused serious damage to local scientific stations and now the only research bases are run by Argentina and Spain. Unique black volcanic sand covers the island. Everyone had been forewarned about the difficult landing conditions found at this beach. The shore here dives deep and fast underwater creating a strong and heavy swell. Despite the cautions, once on shore several passengers commented that they were quite surprised how easy it was to get in and out of the zodiacs. Of course, it helped that all of Cheesemans' numerous staff were holding boats plus grabbing arms, dry bags and tripods, and guiding people through the surf.
When everyone finally arrived ashore, we had a few hours to enjoy the remarkable sight of all this penguin action. The dramatic panorama of the long gravel beach, the ice fields and green mosses of the hillsides of Deception Island added texture and depth to the already incredible scene. Sized just over 2 feet and about 9 pounds, Chinstraps are a bundle of feistiness. The buzzing activity felt like Times Square at New Year's or Rome during the morning commute. Thousands of birds were rushing to the water, while thousands more launched themselves from the waves onto the beach creating an unparalleled penguin superhighway of comings and goings. It was a fabulous chaos of movement. The birds' anxiety increased when a Leopard Seal appeared just outside the breakers, patrolling for unwary penguins. The seal was spotted throughout the morning, its huge reptilian head looked threatening in the deep blue waters of Bransfield Strait. The weather was not entirely cooperative. A cold rain started to fall during the morning and cameras were quickly equipped with rain covers or put away as squalls moved through. Luckily most of us were well equipped with warm clothes and rain gear and were able to cope with the cold and wet. At 10AM, the first load of passengers was guided quickly onto a zodiac waiting at the edge of the surf to head back to the ship. By 10:30 there was a steady stream and the staff was kept busy spinning the zodiacs as they returned empty to the beach and loading gear and people quickly in the rough waves. Despite our own version of the penguins' chaos, the worst casualties were the occasional pair of wet socks and some submerged staff. Back on board our warm ship over anticipated steamy pizza, there was much celebration and telling of stories. Note: See the Penguin Superhighway on Baily Head for yourself on our Antarctic Peninsula, South Georgia, and Falkland Islands adventure for 29 days, December 29, 2011 to January 26, 2012. See for yourself why this is our most popular trip! Return to top Breaking Sea IcePosted February 3, 2011
Video by Phillip Colla
Sea ice passes by our ice-ship, the Polar Star, as it sails along the edge of the Weddell Sea en route to the Antarctic Peninsula. Part of the Southern Ocean, the Weddell Sea is at the southern terminus of the Atlantic Ocean lying south of the Antarctic Circle. It is bordered by the coasts of the Antarctic Peninsula and Coats Land. The southern part of the sea is covered by huge ice shelves such as the Ronne, Filchner, and Larsen. An ice shelf is a thick platform of glacial ice that flows from land and floats out some distance onto the ocean surface. Ice calves off ice shelves as they slowly flow to sea, creating icebergs of all sizes and hues. Currents carry icebergs throughout the Weddell Sea and into the Southern Ocean. Sea ice also litters the Weddell Sea; it is formed as the sea ice thaws and breaks-up each short southern summer. Note: Sail by icebergs of unbelievable hues in all shapes and sizes and through crunchy-white sea ice as you journey south during our Antarctic Expedition December 29, 2011 to January 26, 2012. See more videos taken in the Antarctic! Return to top Perpetual and Unforgiving StrugglePosted January 20, 2011 by Phillip Colla Midway through our crossing from South Georgia Island to Antarctica we pass the South Orkney Islands, a small group of islands that lie almost exactly between South Georgia and the Antarctic Peninsula, making them a natural place to pause during our crossing and make a landing to stretch our legs a little. After our sunrise approach to Coronation Island, the icebreaker ship M/V Polar Star anchors and we go ashore at Shingle Cove to visit a colony of adelie penguins (Pygoscelis adeliae). The colony is set atop a bluff above the ocean, subject to blasting wind and snow. The wind is so strong that it knocks a chick over now and then. Many of the chicks are huddled together for warmth in creches. Adjacent to the bluff is a snow-covered slope that the penguins descend to reach a cobblestone beach. The thousands of birds in the colony have worn dirty winding poop-covered paths in the snow. I spend most of my time on the cobblestones, watching the penguins pass back and forth. Entering the water is a dangerous proposition for a penguin, since leopard seals often patrol the shallows waiting to strike.
So the penguins gather in nervous groups at the water's edge, making a few false starts before one of the braver individuals finally commits and dives in. Immediately the rest of the group follows suit, rushing into the water in a chaotic sprint. As the waves washing in and out are hard to judge, some penguins miss time their dives and land head first on the rocks, only to pop back up quickly and try again. In a few seconds it is over – the rocks are empty. The departing penguins can now be seen porpoising at great speed out to sea to spend time foraging for food. Penguins returning to shore arrive in smaller groups or individually, but speed through the water in the same nervous way, ending their swim with a leap and an agile stand-up landing onto the rocks. After a while I spot an elephant seal lounging in a pool on rocky reef. I spend some time lying on the rocks (uncomfortable) trying to photograph it at its eye level. I'm not sure I succeeded. After that, a visit to the nesting area is in order, to see the chicks and especially the adults feeding their young. On the snowy slope between the beach and the rookery I witness a southern giant petrel's attack on a chick that ventured too far from the nest. The result is gory and tough to watch. The giant petrel does not dispatch its catch quickly. It takes about 10 minutes for the chick to die, during which time the skua consumes a good part of it. Afterward, all that is left is a tattered penguin carcass lying on the dirty snow and a blood-covered skua guarding its kill. The scene is not enjoyable to watch, but I do feel privileged to have witnessed it. It drives home the fact that the dramatic wildlife spectacles we are here to observe are a perpetual and unforgiving struggle. We leave Shingle Cove about midday, sailing along the South Orkney Islands for a while. Icebergs large and small pass by, set against the snow-covered mountains of Coronation Island. One tabular berg that we encounter is measured by the ship's radar at over 3 miles long. The thing is so large that it takes much longer to reach than expected, distance and size being quite difficult to judge in the clear dry air. Note: Read Phillip Colla's entire report with great photography from our expedition to Antarctica in December 2009 to January 2010. Return to top The Harems of St. Andrew'sPosted January 4, 2011
Excerpt from the trip log by Ali Liddle As the sun rose again on the mountains of South Georgia Island it promised another fine day on our Antarctic isle. The summits surrounding St. Andrew's Bay were tinged with pink and the setting of the bay was beautiful. The zodiacs took us to the far right hand corner of the bay, underneath tall cliffs, to go ashore in calm waters. Milky gray melt from the Cook Glacier filled a river proving to be a bit of challenge for everyone. The staff rose to the challenge and before long there was a zodiac bridge across the river so we could roam the beach to enjoy the dense wildlife of famous St. Andrew's Bay.
The beach was packed with Southern Elephant Seals - this is the biggest elephant seal population on the island with nearly 6,000 animals! Males arrived at this beach in mid-September to setup territories in anticipation of the female's arrival. Males are typically five to six times larger than the females, showing possibly the largest sexual dimorphism of any mammal. The larger bulls, some the weight of a large SUV, had a bigger advantage in the fight to become the beachmaster of a harem. Fighting males use their weight and canine teeth against each other and we could see the resulting severe tears and cuts on some of the bulls. Females just arrived a few weeks ago in early October and joined a beachmaster in a harem to give birth and then mate; we could see a little bit of both going on. We noticed that some of the larger harems had a few loser bulls lurking on the perimeter. Dramas unfolded in front of us as lurkers repeatedly snuck into the harem to try to quickly mate with a female. The enraged beachmaster charged most of the time, trampling anything in its path, to assert his dominance. But sometimes the beachmaster didn't seem to mind; we guessed that he allowed a few loser bulls to mate with a few females in return for help in protecting the periphery from other marauding bulls. Amazing and mysterious nature asks so many unanswered questions! Wonderful St. Andrew's Bay is also home to many other species, including the largest king penguin colony in South Georgia with around 200,000 pairs, a sight to behold! Groups of molting adults were waiting for the three-week molt to finish so they could head back to their feeding grounds at sea. Fluffy brown chicks could be heard calling hungrily for their parents while the trumpeting answers of the adult birds carried in the mountain breeze. As the afternoon wore on the temperature seemed to drop and although the wildlife on the beach seemed oblivious, we humans bundled-up in the afternoon. We were comforted with the knowledge that we would return to the comfort and warmth of the ship at the end of the day while they endured another cold night in St. Andrew's Bay. Note: Seek your own answers to the mysteries of nature on our next expedition to South Georgia and Falkland Islands in October 2012. Return to top Gaped, Gawked, Ooh-ed and Ahh-edPosted December 7, 2010
Excerpt from the trip log by David Shaw The morning wake-up arrived all too early for many, but Steeple Jason Island lay in our future so we raised ourselves from bed and made our way to breakfast. There was not a cloud in the sky and dozens of Black-browed Albatross were skimming the moderate swell surrounding the ship. By 6:15 AM the first zodiac was lowered into the building waves, but the rolling swell that had rocked us gently in our sleep had now become something more menacing. Our Expedition Leader, Ted, always has a backup plan in reserve, so the infamous Plan B was soon called into action.
The Polar Star headed to the north side of the island to another landing spot. Many made the best of the delay and photographed the picturesque layers of sea haze on the backlit ridgelines of Steeple Jason. Hundreds of albatross wheeled in the air and challenged our photographic prowess. After challenging zodiac rides and negotiating the rocky landing with many helping-hands from the staff, everyone made it safely to the sunny heather and tussock slopes of the island. Before long, we were scattering across the island, admiring the colony of Gentoo Penguins a short distance from the landing site, watching the bold, and voracious Striated Caracaras and making our way to the main attraction: the largest colony of seabirds in the western hemisphere. Between the rocky shore and the tussocks on the island's south slope, reaching for miles in either direction lay the nesting area for 220,000 pairs of Black-browed Albatross and thousands of Rockhopper Penguins. We lined the edge of one corner of the colony and the sound of clicking shutters and excited whispers mingled with the calls of the albatross, the wind and the hiss of great wings cutting the air. We gaped, gawked, ooh-ed and ahh-ed. Some decided to lay claim to Steeple Jason as their own. And when 2 PM rolled around, the departure time for the first zodiac, not one person was waiting to leave. Finally, at 4:30 PM, the last two zodiacs reluctantly loaded and headed back to the ship. We zipped back to the ship as the engines were warming and within moments the Polar Star was underway toward new adventures ahead on South Georgia Island. Note: Sign-up now for one of our upcoming Antarctic adventures that stop at Steeple Jason - you too will not want to leave! Choose between Antarctic Peninsula, South Georgia and Falkland Islands in December 2011 and South Georgia and Falkland Islands in October 2012. Or choose both! Return to top Kings of Salisbury PlainsPosted November 2, 2010
Excerpt from the trip log by Ali Liddle It was a very early start for most but as the sun rose and tinged the mountains surrounding Salisbury Plain a delicate shade of pink, the effort to rise was well worth it. It was a beautiful morning. Salisbury Plain is a vast glacial plain covering an area of over 2km square, the largest flat area of ground in South Georgia. It is also home to an estimated 90,000 breeding pairs of king penguins, which seemed to stretch as far as the eye could see. The surrounding mountain peaks and snow clad glaciers, the Lucas and Grace, provided a perfect backdrop for the scene and as the sun rose higher the true beauty of South Georgia was revealed. It was a truly stunning morning. The landing area provided easy access to the penguins on the beach and in the early morning light they looked fantastic as their glossy white plumage glistened and their distinctive orange head patches positively glowed. Many people didn't wander too far from the beach for the early part of the day as penguins continued to come ashore in waves and those leaving the beach headed out beyond the breakers to have a much needed scrub after a few days in the mud and dust. Further along the beach towards the "penguin highway", the main access point for the king penguins coming ashore to the colony on the hillsides above, there were a number of elephant seal harems that were to prove a real focus for everyone later in the day as a number of bulls fought for dominance on the beach. The superb South Georgia weather created a very relaxed feel to the day as everyone was able to sit comfortably enjoying the sunshine, the views and the wildlife. People just wandered quietly along the edges of the colony taking photographs, observing behavior and just taking in the sheer vast beauty of the wildlife-filled panoramic views.
Up towards the main colony, some of the "oakam boys" were providing fabulous entertainment as they ran around in circles flapping their wings as if in sheer delight at the fine day and life itself. Parents were observed coming back from sea to feed their chicks. After trumpeting calls they seemed to listen intently for the reply of their chick and, after identifying the unique call, providing a much needed feed made up mainly of lantern fish, a deep water fish species. As the full six-hour visit was coming to an end and most people were gathering at the landing point an iconic South Georgia scene was unfolding along the beach. Two bull elephant seals were embroiled in a battle for dominance of the harem. It proved to be a long bloody battle with both seals rearing up and battering each other with their heads and necks and tearing at each other's proboscis noses leaving the losing seal tattered and bleeding in the shallows. The victor promptly found a female seal and emphasized his dominance by mating with her in full view of the beaten interloper. What an end to a fantastic seven-hour extended morning on Salisbury Plain! Note: Join us on our next adventure focused on pristine South Georgia and Falkland Islands in October 2012. Rox Granzow, on our 2009 expedition, told us, "Even though I had been there before with you and thought it could not get better than that, I was wrong. It is now apparent that every time I go, it gets more and more etched on my heart. Such a beautiful and magical place on earth, like no other." Return to top First Landing on the Last ContinentPosted October 12, 2010
Excerpt from the voyage log by David Shaw
An excited buzz could be felt passing through our ship as we neared our first landing on the Last Continent. During the past three weeks we visited wonderful places on the islands of Falklands, South Georgia and the Antarctic Peninsula. Now we were about to step on the "last" continent itself - a milestone that many of us dreamed about for a long time. At 3 PM, we arrived at the far northern end of the Antarctic Peninsula where our landing, Brown Bluff, was located. Our first zodiac was soon cruising toward the towering cliffs above the Adelie Penguin colony. Brown Bluff is rich in other wildlife as well as Adelie Penguins. Kelp Gulls nest on the lichen-clad boulders that dot the beach. Pintado and Snow Petrels nest in the crevices of the cliff a thousand feet up and several dozen Gentoo penguins can be found atop their own rocky nests along the beach. Adelie Penguins poured off the hillside and their antics on the beach kept everyone engrossed. The skies clouded over a bit and a gray bank of fog was visible to the east creating superb light for portraits of the birds. Calm seas were perfect for short zodiac cruises among the offshore icebergs where we admired and photographed the rich, almost unbelievable, blue of the ice in light that livened the color even more. The fog steadily rolled in and by 7 PM when the last zodiac departed the beach, it completely obscured our ship the Polar Star. Luckily, our trusty zodiac drivers had made the trip enough times by then to know the way, and we found the ship again without trouble. That evening, we contentedly celebrated our first steps on the last continent of Antarctica, the last unspoiled place left on earth. Note: Join us on our next voyage to the Antarctic Peninsula, South Georgia, and the Falkland Islands December 29, 2011 to January 26, 2012 where you will have your own opportunity to stop on the Last Continent. Return to top Incredible Paulet IslandPosted July 22, 2010
Excerpt from the voyage log by David Shaw We could see from the deck of the Polar Star that the icebergs and sea ice crowded the passages between the mainland of Antarctica and Paulet Islands. The ship tired to ease between, but was soon stopped by a wall of ice. Since we couldn't break through the ice, the captain turned the ship to find a better anchorage on the south side of the island. After some searching and fighting the strong current, our persistent captain found a suitable spot about a kilometer from the landing site. Cheers went out as our landing was confirmed and we prepared to go ashore. As we loaded zodiacs the breeze occasionally carried the smell of the giant Adelie Penguin colony to the ship. Big patches of blue sky dominated and only a moderate breeze rippled the water as the zodiacs skimmed off toward the shore. Paulet Island is beyond doubt one of our expedition highlights! The main attraction is the colony of 200,000 pairs of nesting Adelie Penguins. Soon, we were all spread out over the island, each in search of a unique experience. Penguins came and went along the snowfields, between water and nest, offering many opportunities for photography and a peek into the life of these endearing birds.
Many of us also walked among the remnants of the Larsen Hut, tucked into the middle of the island. The story of Captain Larsen and the stranded men from the ship Antarctic is one of incredible courage. We could only imagine the ordeals they underwent as the men lived in this makeshift stone hut throughout the long winter months of 1903. A group of intrepid hikers climbed to the summit of Paulet Island with Ted and Gail Cheeseman. All reports were that the walk was stunning with incredible views over the ice-choked waters of the Antarctic Sound. Most agreed that the best part of the day was zodiac cruising among icebergs carved into amazing shapes and illuminated by beautiful and changing light. Hundreds of Adelie Penguins resting on the bergs created scenes that we all had dreamed of photographing. We didn't know which way to point our cameras – it seemed the next shot would be better than the last. Hugh's last zodiac cruise of the afternoon reported a close encounter with Antarctica's wildlife. A curious Adelie Penguin purposefully hopped across an iceberg to people-watch the occupants of the zodiac from only a foot away. It was soon joined by more curious penguins and for several minutes penguins and people locked-eyes in curiosity. Finally, at 6 PM the last zodiac returned to the ship and the sun faded behind some clouds. But the day's activities weren't over! We spent the evening hours ship cruising to the north and east of Paulet Island. The sun reappeared in beams alternately lighting up the glaciers, mountains, water, and icebergs with beautiful light. An Emperor Penguin swam alongside the ship shortly after we raised anchor, putting a "cherry-on-top" of our perfect day. Note: Join us on our next voyage to the Antarctic Peninsula, South Georgia, and the Falkland Islands. Return to top Mighty-nice Hercules BayPosted April 29, 2010
Excerpt from the voyage log by David Shaw There was snow blowing across Hercules Bay when the Polar Star pulled in during the early hours of the morning. The mountain tops were shrouded in clouds but the weather did not take away from the extraordinary views of the cliffs rising thousands of feet from the bay. There were two landing sites planned. One, the waterfall site, was located on the inner portion of the bay where a mighty hundred-foot waterfall poured down onto a small beach. The second, nicknamed "the slot ", was near the mouth of Hercules Bay where a gap in the rocks allowed zodiacs to pull in and out from a rocky plateau near a cluster of nesting Macaroni Penguins. Soon, the group was distributing to the two landings and to zodiac cruising the scenic bay. Despite the initially poor weather, the morning turned into a light show of patchy sun, falling snow, and portrait-perfect overcast light.
The outer landing site was home to a wallow of photogenic, if stinky, Elephant Seals and a rocky shoreline of bright yellow, lichen-covered rocks. Macaroni Penguins hopped up and down a penguin highway through loafing fur seals, while others rested atop a nearby rock. Meanwhile at the inner landing a group of 75 King Penguins were resting in the spray of the waterfall, making for interesting photographic compositions, and unique wildlife viewing. It was during Zodiac cruising however when the most interesting sighting of the day appeared. Rod spotted a strange-looking crested penguin mixed in amongst a group of Macaronis. It was a bit bigger, white-throated, with a substantially larger and more robust bill. The bird napped all morning long, allowing many zodiac loads of passengers to view the bird. Possibilities were thrown out to the identification of the bird, and finally we settled on a Royal Penguin, or similar hybrid. Royal Penguins breed only near New Zealand, halfway round the Southern Ocean from South Georgia. (Later in the day at Grytviken, the British Antarctic Survey biologists agreed that the bird was likely a Royal Penguin, the second ever record for South Georgia Island. The dispute continued later via email when two experts disagreed over the identification.) Shortly after noon all were safely back aboard the Polar Star and we were underway to Grytviken Harbor. Blue ruled the skies above the ship as we made our way toward the old whaling base. But as we turned into Cumberland Bay we could see the mountains draped in snow-filled clouds. Closer to shore, katabatic winds, racing down the many glaciers hit the ship in sharp gusts, throwing spray into the air. Many of us stood out on deck and watched the entralling scene as fur seals porpoised along side our ship. Note: Have your own mighty adventure on the Cheesemans' next voyage to the the Antarctic Peninsula, South Georgia, and the Falkland Islands. Return to top Macaroni at Cobbler'sPosted March 18, 2010
Excerpt from the voyage log by Ali Liddle We had a calm and peaceful night anchored in the shelter of Godthul and another early start found us traveling around the headland in open water to the beautiful enclosed site known as Cobbler's Cove. This quiet little bay was named after the white-chinned petrels that nest in the surrounding hillsides. These birds have a chattering call, which was thought to sound like the old squeaky sewing machines used by shoemakers to make leather shoes and boots hence the name "cobblers". It was a beautiful morning yet again, with blue sky and just a few white fluffy clouds around the tops of the surrounding mountain peaks so a perfect start to another South Georgia day. The objective of the morning was to hike over the hill to Rookery Point to see the colony of Macaroni Penguins, something everyone was very keen to do, previously having found only an empty rookery at Hercules Bay. The walk took us on a steep climb up a snow gully but, given the numbers in the hiking party, it didn't take too long for steps to be stamped down into the snow making easy climbing for the majority of people heading up over the 150m high pass. From the pass itself it was a gentle descent through relatively green pastures down to the rocky coastline by Rookery Point. The views out to East Skerry, a small offshore island were much improved by the presence of a grounded ice berg on its eastern shore. At the Macaroni Penguin colony there was around 100 birds tucked away in small, open areas between the tall tussac stands, with more arriving from the sea every minute. They had to weave their way through the muddy trails to reach the open rookery and probably got a bit of a shock to find their way filled with camera wielding paparazzi! At the height of the breeding season the population at Rookery Point is around 2,000 pairs but it was a little early to see the colony at its noisy, bustling peak season best. However the photo opportunities, especially on the rocky landing beach were fantastic for everyone as the penguins arrived ashore sparkling in the sunshine and walking past on their way through the tussac to the hillside colony. Unfortunately this breeze freshened to whip-up chop from the open ocean, halting the progress of the zodiac-cruisers who hoped to see the Macs by sea. As the morning wore on the breeze increased and wisps of mist crept inland to shroud the hillside, creating ghostly patterns above the colony. It was time to begin the walk back over the hills to Cobbler's Cove. The return journey was certainly a little quicker for most as we slid down the snow gully back to the beach! Great fun for everyone. Note: Join us on our next great adventure to Antarctica, South Georgia and Falkland Islands. Skip and Gayle Stokes, travelmates on our 2009-10 expedition, exclaimed, "We enjoyed the magnificent scenery and wildlife most. It was greatly enhanced by the expertise of your staff and their willingness to share it". Return to top Happy New Year from the FalklandsPosted January 7, 2010
by Jim Danzenbaker Our group headed to the albatross/penguin/shag colony on the other end of New Island, but not before viewing a family of five Ruddy-headed Geese that were feeding along the trail. Once at the colony, I headed down the gully to an area that is best for viewing the loafing Rockhopper Penguins and others returning from the sea. Although tussock-lined and slippery in spots, the descent into this gully was well worth the effort. The gully is a major thoroughfare for Rockhoppers as they plod their way up towards waiting mates and young after successful foraging runs at sea. To me, it's a slice of heaven - the sights and sounds combine to show nature in the raw. It is truly memorable to stand at the bottom of this gully and look up at the jagged, ridged sandstone walls that are lined with nesting albatrosses while simultaneously listening to the pitter-patter of tiny Rockhopper Penguin feet as they hop along towards the colony or head out to the sea. At the mouth of the gully, hundreds of loafing penguins take time to rest and do some much needed preening after returning with full stomachs. It's fascinating to watch these penguins enter and exit the frothy sea along this rocky coast - gathering up in ever larger groups until an unknown signal (or critical mass) pushes one, then two, then a hoard of penguins into the surf. Their rule is safety in numbers, since they never know if there is a lurking Southern Sea Lion or Orca waiting to dine on a wayward penguin. Getting back and forth to the penguin colony looked challenging to me but these little guys take it step by step over this treacherous terrain and conquer seemingly "in-hoppable" distances between rocks with relative ease - sometimes needing extended flippers to balance lest they fall over. What a fantastic bird! Return to top Where Few Have Gone BeforePosted December 29, 2009
by Marc Lombardi
A trip to South Georgia is bound to quickly exhaust superlatives. The unimaginable mass of wildlife, spectacular surroundings and sheer remoteness of the trip easily exceed the experience of most travelers - even those of us who have been to the Southern Ocean before. This trip delivered the South Georgia experience to the limits of reasonable expectations, and then pushed beyond with a sight few travelers have shared - circumnavigation... a cruise down the southwest coast on a clear day with views of the entire expanse of this magnificent island! After three wonderful days of landings along the northern end of the island, a fierce storm approached from the east. Rather than running for cover and spending a dreary two days huddled in Grytviken, Ted's experience and sound judgment as an expedition leader offered another option: retreat back to the north and down the west side of the island, betting that the normally weather-battered side would be sheltered by the "rocky spine" of South Georgia. And so it was! After a morning landing at Peggotty Bluff in King Haakon Bay, the site of Shackleton's landing after crossing the Southern Ocean in 1916, we cruised out of the bay and Pauline Carr read passages from the account of Shackleton's epic journey. A short time after turning south Pauline returned to the PA system encouraging all to witness a sight that she and Tim had never seen in their 14 years living on South Georgia - the entire southwest coast visible at once! South Georgia's rocky spine had served us well, both providing shelter from the storm as well as breathtaking views of the mountains swirled and framed by surreal cloud formations. As incredible as the wildlife and other "typical" sights of South Georgia certainly were, the landscapes of the southwest coast could prove to be the true prize of this voyage. Friends seeing some of the images from that day cannot believe the clouds and mountains and scale of the images. Indeed the storm may have been our friend in many ways, driving textures, shapes and diversity of clouds that dwarfed the 6,000+ foot mountains. A remarkable day at the end of the earth! Editor's Note: Read the fascinating voyage log (PDF) of this Cheesemans' expedition to the Southern Ocean surrounding Antarctica in October 2009. Return to top Preparing for a Life at SeaPosted December 22, 2009 Excerpt from the voyage log by Ali Liddle
Prion Island is a very special place! It is a rat free oasis for many breeding birds from the magnificent Wandering Albatross to the tiny South Georgia Pipit, the most southerly breeding passerine in the world. Onshore we were met by South Georgia Pintails, a small teal that feeds along the shoreline and in the fresh water streams that run down through the tussac grass. Due to the sensitivity of the island as one of the last breeding strongholds of Wandering Albatross, whose numbers had been decreasing at a rate of 4.5% per year in recent years, the visit had to be carefully managed. A boardwalk has been recently constructed to ease visitor pressure on the albatross, as well as providing protection for the vegetation and the burrows of petrels and prions. The boardwalk took us directly up the hillside to view the albatross chicks sitting patiently amongst the tussac waiting for their parents return. Their patience and almost serene composure seemed to affect everyone and a sense of quiet calm seemed to descend over the groups as they moved between the perfectly positioned viewing platforms. The eight month old chicks could be seen practicing their wing beats in preparation for a life at sea, to begin in around six weeks time. It was amazing to see how the chick folded its six-foot wingspan back into its flanks and settled down again to wait. Some of the chicks didn't have long to wait as a number of adult birds returned to the colony. They circled the island a few times as if to get their bearings before dropping down into the tussac near their patient chicks to provide a feed of concentrated reguritated squid, krill and fish soup. Editor's Note: A visit to Prion Island to see the Wandering Albatross is tops on our list of landings during our Antarctic expeditions. The amazing Wanderer has the largest wingspan of any living bird, between 8 and 11 feet, enabling it to remain in the air without flapping for long periods of time. They have a very slow reproduction rate, breeding every other year on islands throughout the Southern Ocean. The adults invest a huge amount of time and energy to raise only one chick, caring for it for almost a year before it fledges. Adolescents return to the islands after six years, but don't breed until about 12 years old. Wandering Albatross often live to 80 years old. There are many pressures on this remarkable bird causing their numbers to dwindle. Please help us protect it - read about the Save the Albatross campaign at Birds Austalia and read more about the campaign in the Seabird Conservation Newsletter (PDF). Return to top Extra-Extra, Read All About It!Posted November 23, 2009
By Ted Cheeseman The Penguin News, the local newspaper of the Falkland Islands, got wind of our gallant effort to clean the beach at Dyke Bay during our recent journey to the Southern Ocean. The Falkland Islanders were very pleased that an expedition of our size took a big interest in their tiny island. On November 5, many of our staff and passengers gave up valuable expedition time to make a positive impact on the environment of the island by collecting the debris of the fishing industry that blows up on the brilliant beach. The beach can now be safely used by the myriad of wildlife without the threat of entanglement in the debris on the beach. See the complete story in our recent blog, "Brilliant Caring Travelmates." Return to top Brilliant Caring TravelmatesPosted November 19, 2009
By Debbie Thompson with help from Alison Liddle
Ted Cheeseman just returned from his expedition to South Georgia and the Falkland Islands with a proud smile on his face. During previous Antarctic expeditions, Ted noticed the garbage strewn on the beach surrounding Dyke Bay, close to the settlement on Carcass Island in the Falkland Islands. And on this journey, he decided it was time to do something about it. Dyke Bay is open to the prevailing westerly winds that blow much of the detritus of the fishing industry onto the beautiful white sand beach. It was near the end of their fantastic expedition when on November 5th Ted put out a call for volunteers to give something back to the picturesque islands that everyone grew to love during this 25-day expedition. Many generous staff and tour participants stepped forward, willing to give up a valuable afternoon of their journey to help. When they arrived at the sunny shore, they realized they had their work cut out for them - the beach was covered with blue plastic fish wrap and bands, ropes, nets, and different-sized pieces of plastics all entangled in kelp. Set about their mission, they collected over forty bags of garbage and piled ropes and fishing net onto big heaps, about 1.5 tonnes in all. After they were done, they all took a minute to proudly survey the clean white sand laid out before them. Back on board the ship, the beach-cleaners felt a magnificent sense of accomplishment, commenting how good it felt to make a difference on this handsome little island. From a Falkland Islander's point-of-view, it was brilliant to see visitors caring enough to get involved. If every tour operator took the same proactive approach as the Cheesemans' then more of these special little corners of our earth would be returned to their beautiful roots. Editor's Note: We at Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris are very proud of our travelmates who always show so much compassion for our environment and the wonderful wildlife that must live in it. We always encouage our travelers to support conservation efforts to give something back to the unique places that they visit. The majority of them have offset the carbon generated from their travel by buying carbon offsets from CarbonTree Conservation Fund. Cheesemans' supports conservation efforts at home and around the world, and we sincerely hope you will too. Return to top The Hapless PlungePosted September 30, 2009
Excerpt from the voyage log by Buff Corsi We awoke offshore Paulet Island. Paulet is a small volcanic island, roughly circular and a mile in diameter. It is home to a large colony of Adelie penguins and Antarctic shags. It was surprising to see that the recent strong winds had blown all the icebergs that are usually found floating in the bay to some other place-there were only a few left. We went ashore in snow flurries which continued on and off all morning. The Adelie population at Paulet looked different to us who had been there before: some of the slopes had new colonies, and some areas normally thick with nesting birds were empty. The chicks were very well grown and looked healthy, so perhaps there had simply been a shifting of nest locations. There was a lot to see and enjoy: chick chases, ecstatic displays, pebble stealing, birds massing at the shore preparatory to going on the hunt for krill, birds flinging themselves ashore upon return, and lots more. Leopard Seals patrol the beach near this massive colony of Adelies looking for an easy meal - a hapless penguin that is not in-tune with the dilemma at hand - jump in to eat or jump in to be eaten. We could feel the tension in the air as the Adelie parents gathered at the edge of the water, those in back pushing the group towards the water and those in the front not wanting to be the first one to plunge into the mouth of a hidden seal. The Adelie group strained to look into the water, the view obscured by the many ice bits floating at the surface. They called to each other, seemingly asking for a volunteer to go first, but there were no takers. The hesitant group grew to over thirty as more hungry Adelies joined. Soon a critical mass was reached and the penguins in front could no longer hold back the pushing and shoving. They exploded into the water with the look of terror on their faces. We could imagine they were just waiting to feel those sharp teeth of a Leopard Seal grab them - a certain doom. But our group of Adelies was lucky today; there was no concealed Leopard Seal under the icy bits. A sense of relief filled the air as they quickly scrambled out to sea where they can easily out maneuver their predator. This relief is short-lived however, because the drama will have to be replayed many times until the chicks are grown and forced to take the same hapless plunge as their parents. Note: Witness your own group of Adelie Penguins take the plunge, perhaps your outcome will be different! Join one of our Antarctic expeditions. Return to top South Georgia, Here we are!Posted September 14, 2009 Excerpt from the voyage log by Heather McFarland
Excitment was in the air as the ship pulled into Undine Harbor early allowing us a full day for our first landing. Undine is the northern-most landing site on the island. As we approached from the south, we could see the fur seals and elephant seals which dotted the gravel beach and rising behind were tussock and scree slopes, home to a variety of animals. Snowy sheathbills congregated on the beach, intrigued by the colorful bags that were brought ashore. These funny birds pecked at the plastic and pulled at the straps of the items left on the beach. Giant petrels lounged on the gravel, but many more were found on nests in the tussock-covered hills. We had to take care while walking in the tussocks not to disturb them as we could endanger the life of the chick incubating inside the shell. We had the opportunity to walk up and over the saddle to see the spledid view of Elsehul Harbour on the other side. Some passengers scrambled down to the three trypots on the beach below. Elsehul was discovered by sealers in the late 1700s and was an ideal location for sealing operations, due to its protected beach and large amount of available fresh water. Today, the remains of two huts may be seen near the trypots that sit as reminders of the time from 1790-1820 when nearly the entire population of fur seals and a large percent of the elephant seal population in South Georgia were harvested for their oil and fur. Fortunately, these practices are long past and the populations have recovered. Once on top of the saddle between the two harbors, breeding grey-headed albatross could be spotted on the tussock-covered cliff ledges. Nests are constructed of a short column of soil and grass with a central depression in which the egg sits. Adults flew in over our heads to join their mate and to take their turn incubating the single egg, performing a greeting ceremony upon arrival. Albatross are known for nesting in windy areas, providing them with an easy take-off vantage point, and these were no different. We were mesmerized with watching these handsome birds in flightas they displayed their seven-foot wingspan. Back on the ship a celebration was in order! Not only did we have an exciting first landing, but it was Hallows Eve and after "gruel was served, some heathens celebrated in the lounge (costumes optional) until the witches flew away on their broomsticks!" Note: See amazing wildlife, including nine possible species of albatross, during our expedition to South Georgia and Falkland Islands in 2012. Return to top Boldly Painted SeabirdsPosted August 4, 2009
Excerpt from the voyage log by Buff Corsi Doug awakened us a half hour early this morning because we were approaching a stunning deep blue iceberg off Coronation Island in the South Orkneys. This particular passage is known as the "iceberg graveyard" as currents tend to bunch them up in this area. The blue berg must have originated at the very bottom of a glacier since it had to have been under great pressure in order to press out all the air bubbles. Ice without bubbles reflects back only blue wavelength light, hence the deep blue color. We circled it before continuing on to our landing at Shingle Cove on Coronation Island in the South Orkneys. In addition to the Adelie colony, we enjoyed having a close-up view of nesting pintado petrels - the charming seabird splashed with bold black and white plumage and a 34-inch wingspan. This bird is also named cape petrel and cape pigeon. In Spanish pintado means spotted or painted, and we think that is the most descriptive and appealing name. The pintado is extremely common in the Southern Ocean with a population of around two million birds. Even though they are our constant companions while we are sailing, we rarely get to see them on land, so we felt especially privileged to see them nesting under the rocky overhangs. Their diet consists of crustaceans, fish and squid. Krill is their favorite crustacean, which they catch by pecking at the water surface similar to a pigeon on land, giving them the alternate name, cape pigeon. Leaving the Adelies and the pintados to their nesting duties, we headed back to the Polar Star for lunch. We soon pulled anchor and were underway toward the Antarctic Peninsula by 1:00 p.m. In the afternoon we spent about an hour following some feeding fin whales. There were four or five of them that allowed us to approach relatively closely for some good viewing. Fins are very speedy whales, and had they have chosen to leave us, they could have done so easily. The fin whale is the second largest animal on earth, second only to the blue whale. Note: See these boldy painted seabirds, plus penguins and many other captivationg birds, on one of our expeditions to the Southern Ocean. Return to top Macaronis and CircumnavigationPosted July 28, 2009 By Debbie Thompson
The Ushuaia sailed to Cooper Bay, at the southern tip of South Georgia, arriving in time for a landing at 5:30 am. Steve awoke early and joined the first landing, but I was too comfortable in bed and opted for the later landing. I finally got up and headed to breakfast - pancakes! Yippee! Afterwards, I grabbed my gear and went ashore at 9 am. It was mostly sunny and a bit overcast. The zodiac-landing site consisted of a small beach covered with aggressive bull Fur Seals. They weren't shy about baring their effective weapons - those long canines! A steep snow-covered hill backed up the beach and our objective, the Macaroni Penguin colony, occupied the top. Luckily, Steve and I had our two-way radios, so I called him when I reached the beach to find out where he was. I climbed up the path the staff cut on the steep hillside and found Steve at the top videoing penguins. Macaroni Penguins, named for the long thin yellow feathers protruding from their temples (sing: "...stuck a feather in his cap and called it macaroni..."), like to nest in difficult-to-reach places like this - on top of cliffs or above rock strewn beaches. The Macaronis were just starting to build nests between the clumps of tussock grass using tussock blades or clumps of peaty-roots that they pulled out. We sat on tussock clump stools surrounded by penguins and snow, watching and photographing all the activities. I never tire of watching these fiesty but charming little creatures. A beautiful view of the Ushuaia anchored in scenic Cooper Bay spread below us. Now nearing noon, we reluctantly headed back down the hill and zodiaced to the ship for lunch. We were very sad to leave this beach, especially since it was our last on the island of South Georgia. During lunch Ted Cheeseman excitedly announced that our plan was to sail up the west side of South Georgia, where ships usually don't go. The weather blows in from the west battering the west coast, but the tall mountain spine creates a weather shadow on the east side of the island where we spent the last two weeks. This means it is often sunny on the east coast when it is stormy on the west coast. Luckily, the weather and seas have been abnormally calm lately, giving us a rare chance to complete a circumnavigation of South Georgia by sailing north up the west coast. The captain was very happy, since he has never sailed there before. We spent a lot of time on deck taking in the views. The west coast is more Antarctic-like - colder, more snow, many glaciers flowing out of mountains into the sea, and numerous icebergs littering the ocean. Many seabirds flew by, coming and going from nests on the cliffs. Seals and penguins porpoised past us, at home in the sea. The captain took us into Undine South Harbor for a close look at the glacier-covered mountains surrounding the bay. About midway up the west coast, we sailed close to Annenkov Island. Not allowed to land there, we could only explore this remote island in our imagination. Near the island was the treacherous Haugue reefs, some of it hidden below the water and some exposed above. After sailing the rest of the day and into the evening and taking in the scenes we reached Northern Undine Harbor, our first landing site, completing our circumnavigation. The Ushuaia turned west and we sadly bid ado to our favorite place in on earth, hoping someday that we will return. Note: Expedition leader, Ted Cheeseman, works closely with the captain and crew of the Ushuaia to squeeze every possible adventure from each Antarctic expedition. Don't miss the next exciting journey to South Georgia and Falkland Islands. Return to top Pinch Me, Is this a Dream?Posted June 29, 2009
By Debbie Thompson The M/V Ushuaia sailed south all night to try to land at St. Andrews Bay once again. They say, "the third time's a charm" and so it was - the conditions were perfect this time! Steve and I prepared for a full day in this legendary place and took our zodiac ride ashore early. The large beach at St. Andrews Bay is backed by giant glaciers flowing out of the scenic mountains. These glaciers once covered this area but have since receded, leaving moraines that created ridges and silt that created the broad beach that the animals love so much. Several large streams flowed through the black sand draining the glaciers and dividing up the beach into sections. Numerous harems of Elephant Seals spread shoulder-to-shoulder on the beach, making it difficult for us to maneuver. However, we happily considered this one of those good problems to have! Finally past most of the harems, Steve and I started hiking toward a ridge overlooking the largest King Penguin colony on South Georgia, but the Elephant Seals soon distracted Steve and I eagarly continued on alone. I crossed several smaller snow covered ridges to the large one at the back of the wide plain. I passed many King Penguin adults molting away from the nesting colony and close to a needed fresh drinking water source - a stream or even just a patch of snow. These photogenic adults looked comical with old protruding feathers creating funny outfits. It was a sunny 40 degrees and the snow was becoming soft as I discarded some of my layers. Finally reaching the ridge, I enjoyed the improbable view of hundreds of thousands of penguins spread out below and I thought, "pinch me, is this a dream?!" There I found other shipmates with Rod Planck, one of our Professional Photography Instructors and excellent naturalist, enjoying the view also. Rod answered our questions and gave us welcomed photography hints and ecology information. We all studied the gigantic crèche of Oakum Boys, as the immature Kings are known, a product of the previous breeding season. They were mischievously killing time before their next meal arrived. These chicks were still fed by parents but will soon molt into waterproof feathers and head out to sea on their own. Luckily, Steve and I had our two-way radios so I kept in contact with him as he navigated his way to the ridge. Finally together, we enjoyed the view while we ate our bagged lunch. Ahhh, we both agreed, this has to be the best place on earth for a picnic! St. Andrews Bay is high on the list of planned landings for the next Antarctic expedition. Return to top Air-diving RockhoppersPosted June 11, 2009
By Siegfried Matull I was photographing Black browed albatrosses, when that super-knowledgeable staff member Jim Danzenbaker fortunately asked me if I had already climbed up onto a nearby hill, where it was very easy to grab those fascinating pictures of the "air-diving" Rockhoppers. It was unbelievable, how deep those penguins had to jump to reach the ocean. We are still dreaming and talking constantly about that most wonderful trip of our lives, which we were fortunately able to experience with the Cheesemans. Return to top
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