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The
Falklands, South Georgia and the Antarctic Peninsula
Wednesday, December 27, 2006 - Wednesday, January 24, 2007
All cabin classes are now full. Please let us know if you are interested in being on the wait list for this voyage.
Deposit Schedule: Please see "Payments
& Cancellations" at the foot of the itinerary.
Our Leaders: TED CHEESEMAN (Ecologist, Expedition Leader, Lecturer, Zodiac Driver and Photographer) Ted found his heart stolen by the Antarctic after his first visit in 1994, and has been back many times since. Ted has traveled with Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris since the early 80's and has led and organized expeditions since finishing his graduate degree in conservation biology at Duke University in 2000. Ted's great passion is making expeditions possible for travelers to spend the maximum time possible with wildlife, believing that by coming to know wildlife and wilderness intimately, travelers will come to respect the value of wild places in their pristine state. HUGH ROSE (Naturalist, Geologist, Lecturer and Zodiac Driver) Hugh brings to this expedition a decade of professional guiding experience in Alaska and Antarctica. Hugh will share his understanding of wildlife, natural history, geology and photography with walks onshore, including two photo sessions. Hugh also leads our Alaskan journeys with great praise from all participants.
TOM MURPHY (Professional Photographer, Lecturer and Zodiac Driver) Tom founded Wilderness Photography Expeditions in 1986, and teaches a well-known and respected photography seminar series primarily in Yellowstone National Park. Tom will teach photography sessions ashore to help you bring your wildlife photography to new levels of excellence. He is the author of several books including The Light of Spring, The Seasons of Yellowstone. You can see his work at: www.tmurphywild.com
SUZI ESZTERHAS (Professional Photographer, Lecturer and Zodiac
Driver) Suzi currently teaches photography workshops on the coast of
California and will assist Tom Murphy in his photography sessions ashore.
Suzi has photographed wildlife in various remote regions of the earth
including East Africa, Alaska, Manitoba, British Columbia, and California.
Her images have been widely published and can be seen at www.eszterhasphotography.com.
WALT ANDERSON (Ecologist, Lecturer, Photographer and Wildlife Illustrator) Walt has been referred to as "the naturalist of old cast in modern times, the next generation of a proud and ancient lineage." His field experience spans the globe. Walt teaches natural history, ecology, field biology and interpreting nature through art and photography at Prescott College in Arizona. ANDY McMILLEN (History Lecturer and Zodiac Driver).
Andy boasts a history degree from Yale and a lifelong interest in the
history of exploration. With experience teaching history in Jackson
Hole, conducting float trips on the Snake River in Wyoming, and managing
communications for major corporations, Andy brings a wide range of skills
and knowledge to our adventure. He currently lives in Colorado and operates
a communications consulting practice (www.mcmillencom.com). Itinerary in full: Wednesday to Thursday, December 27 - 28, 2006 International Flights to Ushuaia Plan to arrive in Ushuaia, Argentina by December 28. Flights are available to Ushuaia from Aeroparque Airport (AEP) in Buenos Aires both morning and afternoon and from the international airport (EZE) at 8:30 a.m. If you fly via Buenos Aires and change from EZE to AEP, allow three hours minimum between flights to have time to transfer with your baggage from EZE, the international airport, to AEP, the domestic airport. (Allow one hour by airport taxi or “remise” for the transfer and 90 minutes on an airport express bus. Purchase the bus or taxi fare inside the airport at the Manuel Tienda Leon Taxi and Bus Service desk and you will be accompanied with your luggage to the vehicle. If you would like to arrive earlier in Ushuaia, we are happy to book your extra night(s) at the Hotel Albatros, which is $135 per room, including a buffet breakfast and taxes.
Thursday, December 28 Ushuaia
Friday, December 29 Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego National Park
By 4:00 p.m. board the MV Ushuaia, which will be waiting at the dock. We'll find our cabins and get ready for embarkation in the early evening. The Ushuaia will pull anchor and head east down the Beagle Channel. As the town of Ushuaia fades in the distance, we will find ourselves cruising largely uninhabited scenic shores. It's hard to believe that all along these shores of the Beagle Channel are hollows where the Hshgans (Tierra del Fuegans) once built their huts. The beautiful evergreen Nothophagus trees (Southern Beech), strongly wind pruned, fill every protected valley between the gently rolling hills with mountains behind. Look for new species, such as Chilean Skua, South American Tern, King Cormorant (Blue-eyed Shag), Kelp Gull, and Black-browed Albatross. Our staff on board will spot and identify these species. Enjoy our first dinner together aboard ship, a very special occasion indeed. Dusk will linger late enticing us to stay up watching for seabirds and the spectacular scenery. After sunset, phytoplankton phosphorescing on the water and a brilliant, starry sky may be the rewards.
Saturday, December 30. At Sea
FALKLAND ISLANDS
Sunday to Tuesday, December 31 -January 2 FALKLAND ISLANDS We hope to see our hosts, Tony Chater and Ian Strange on New Island, Lilly and Roddy Napier who own Westpoint Island, and on Carcass, owners, Lorraine and Rob McGill. These islands are privately owned and open to ecotourism on a very limited basis. Carcass Island has the best species diversity, due to never having rats on the island. The owners of these islands are keenly working to protect the resident wildlife. Both the owners on New Island, Ian Strange and Tony Chater, are artists and have designed many of the wonderful Falkland postal stamps, real collector's items. Ian Strange is also author of the excellent field guide to the natural history of the Falklands.
Wednesday to Thursday, January 3 -4 At Sea Southeast to South Georgia At the ever-changing Polar Front two bodies of water meet. As the salty, cold Antarctic water mixes alongside warmer, fresher water from the north, water temperatures plummet from about 4 to 6 degrees C down to 0 degrees C in a period of about eight hours cruising. With this change the bird population begins to include more Cape Petrels, Southern Fulmars, and even Snow Petrel as we come around the northeast end of South Georgia. One year Snow Petrels were sighted further north than the normal 55 degrees latitude south, at 53 degrees south. There is excellent birding in this area. During this time at sea, crossing about 1000 nautical miles from the Falklands, we will have slide lectures on the wildlife, wildlife photography, ecology, geology, and history of the Scotia Sea and South Georgia. The prevailing current will be in our direction.
Friday to Thursday, January 5 -11 SOUTH GEORGIA ISLAND An unforgettable experience will be on Prion Island in the Bay of Isles. Each pair of Wandering Albatross has a private estate with at least 30 meters square of open space around the nest site for courtship and take-offs and landings, a real contrast with the King Penguin's territory of one meter square. Here also are the Southern Giant Petrels, quietly incubating, as long as you keep your distance. The beautifully torpedo sculptured Light-mantled Sooty Albatross nests on the cliffs and glides by, calling its eerie vocalization. The most southern land bird is here, the South Georgia Pipit, endemic to only South Georgia. South Georgia Pintails reside in freshwater ponds among the tussock grass. These ducks survive the winter months by scavenging at carcasses. Also on Prion Island, we'll keep our distance from the Antarctic Fur Seals. We provide walking sticks for anyone who does not carry a tripod in case you need to tickle their whiskers, a safe way to keep an aggressive seal at bay. Female Antarctic Fur Seals control males by snapping at their whiskers. At Grytviken whaling station, which thrived for over 50 years, we will absorb whaling history. The museum has excellent natural history exhibits as well. South Georgia is now a British Antarctic Territory. The history of Antarctic exploration comes alive as we listen to our historian tell of the adventures of Sir Ernest Shackleton. This famous explorer crossed the rugged backbone of South Georgia from the west to arrive at the Stromness Whaling Station on the east side seeking help for his men stranded on Elephant Island. The Endurance crew, hand picked by Sir Ernest Shackleton in England for his 1914-1917 expedition, survived on the nutritious, though unappetizing, meat of penguins and seals while waiting for rescue on Elephant Island. Their ship, the Endurance, was crushed by ice in the Weddell Sea. Shackleton and his men had set off in small boats and landed at Elephant Island with hardly any landing room below the steep cliffs along the shore. From here, Shackleton and a handful of men continued in a small boat to South Georgia, returning to Elephant Island 105 days later to rescue the men. Alongside the graveyard in Grytviken where Shackleton is buried, many young Southern Elephant Seals, no longer hunted for oil, now snooze together. Macaroni Penguins are abundant at Cooper Bay and Gentoo Penguins in
many small colonies all along the northeast coastline. At this time
they are nesting at the height of their breeding activities and are
frequenting the beaches. Penguins porpoise alongside the ship, as we
travel the wild and rugged coastline. There may even be a Fairy Prion
if you have an eye for searching through the large prion flocks circling
the ship. Unfortunately the whales have not yet made a comeback at South
Georgia. On previous charters we have had excellent looks at Fin Whales
on the way to South Georgia and near the South Orkneys, so we are hopeful
that more will be seen in the future. Also on our previous charters
two species of beaked whales, Southern Bottlenose Whale and Cuvier's
Beaked Whale, were seen. The bones of Blue Whales and other cetaceans
are often seen on shore at South Georgia and on the Peninsula, but we
still have never seen a Blue Whale in Antarctica waters. Southern Right
Whales are beginning to make a comeback in this area.
Our route to Antarctica will be dictated by the pack ice and will be most interesting. Icebergs will be scattered throughout our path as we approach the South Orkney Islands. We'll also have two days at sea to gather on the bridge to search for Humpback, Fin and Minke whales, also Southern Fulmars, and hopefully Antarctic Petrel, Kerguelen Petrel, and Snow Petrel, one of the most beautiful birds of the Southern Ocean. Look for blue icebergs with penguins aloft. For the first time Juan Fernandez Petrel was sighted on our 2000 charter between South Georgia and South Orkneys. Some of the lectures onboard ship during this time will be on skuas, penguins, whales and seals, on geology and climate change, on drawing wildlife, and on photo techniques in the ice. The Observation Lounge will be a great place to view spectacular iceberg scenery as we travel further south. At the South Orkneys we plan one landing if ice conditions permit at 60 degrees latitude South. Shingle Cove in the NW corner of Iceberg Bay on the south coast of Coronation Island was named for the shingle on the landing beach at the south shore of the cove. The cove is beautifully colored with orange lichens, green grass and moss and has nesting Snow Petrels and Pintados nearby. (In this area of Antarctica and south we follow a strict eco-code: maintain 15 feet from all wildlife, except if you are approached by an animal, meaning both birds and mammals, and absolutely avoid walking on lichens, moss and the one species of grass.)
Monday to Saturday, January 15 -20 ANTARCTIC PENSINSULA A warming trend has been experienced in the Southern Ocean during the last few decades, showing clear evidence of climate change. The Antarctic Peninsula has been feeling this warming the most, with an amazing 9 degrees warming in average winter temperatures over the last 50 years. This has dramatically changed and reduced ice distributions. But we will still be among a world of spectacular icebergs! Normally while we are here, in the Antarctic summertime on the Peninsula, the coldest temperatures we will experience during landings will be in the 30s F. It is more like winter temperatures at west coast ski resorts, very pleasant with a jacket on, and certainly nothing like wintertime temperatures in Antarctica. Our first Antarctic Peninsula landing, we hope, will be Paulet Island in the Weddell Sea, an excellent place for penguins on icebergs. It is the largest Adelie Penguin colony that we will encounter, located on a very interesting volcanic island. On the west side of the Antarctic Peninsula we will enter Bransfield Strait, and then head southward into Gerlache Strait. Here the Humpback Whales have made a tremendous comeback. We can expect wonderful whale behavior in the summer feeding grounds here. The krill swarms are sometimes enormous, visible on the ship's fathometer (depth sounder). We will find many Gentoo Penguin colonies and Chinstraps, often in mixed colonies on our Antarctica landings, and their attendant scavengers, Snowy Sheathbills, Brown and South Polar skuas, and Kelp Gulls.
Paradise Bay, Lemaire Channel, Neumeyer Channel, the South Shetland Islands Cruising onboard ship down to Petermann Island will certainly be an unforgettable experience. Hanging ice cliffs, the fronts of highly fractured tidewater glaciers, back most of the shoreline. Petermann Island, at 65 degrees S in the southern part of the Lemaire Channel, has a large colony of Adelies and Gentoos with Blue-eyed Shag colonies on the edges. We will plan an evening landing here in beautiful light hopefully taking full advantage of the continuous daylight. Weather and ice conditions permitting we will continue south possibly, not not likely as far as Crystal Sound at the Antarctic Circle, 66 degrees 33' south -a crossing to be celebrated -and even beyond to Detaille Island. A historic British Antarctic Survey hut remains here, abandoned to the thousands of nesting Adelie Penguins. Even if we are likely stymied in our southward progress, the jagged walls of the Transantarctic Mountains will reward us with fantastic scenery behind a fairyland of ice temples. After a memorable southernmost navigation, we begin our return north, on the lookout for more cetaceans, including Killer Whales and even rare beaked whales. We plan to visit the sprawling Gentoo Penguin colony at Port Lockroy, located at the end of the very narrow, beautiful Peltier Channel close to the Neumeyer Channel. We'll try a landing at tiny Cuverville Island with Gentoo Penguins on the headlands and/or at adjacent RongeL Island near a Chinstrap Penguin colony. Perhaps cruise with Humpbacks swimming among the icebergs offshore, although this happening is quite unusual. Deception Island in the South Shetlands is one of the most exciting islands, as it is very active volcanically. We hope to land on both the outside wall and inside the caldera center that opens to the ocean via a narrow gap called "Neptune's Bellows." The landing at Bailey Head on the outside has close to half a million Chinstraps nesting at this time of year, but the sea must be absolutely flat to land on the beach limiting our chances of landing. However inside Deception's huge caldera we can cruise and make several fascinating landings. One of the most unique experiences is soaking in thermal pools alongside the beach at Pendulum Cove in clouds of steam. The water temperature can be fairly comfortable, although sometimes it's so hot that it's necessary to mix it with colder water. If you stiffen up your arms and flap underwater like a penguin, it helps. Somehow penguins are a lot more agile underwater than we are! Normally there are a number of Weddell Seals basking on the beach, but this area is an Area of Scientific Concern and is not open beyond the high tide mark to walking. We land if the tide is correct and the weather is favorable. Further north in the South Shetland Island Group we might encounter more lichens and even lush moss. In the penguin colonies we will also encounter all of the usual rookery scavengers: skuas, gulls, giant-petrels, and Snowy Sheathbills, some of them guarding their nests. Kelp Gulls especially are very wary and easily frightened from their nest, so we have to give their nests a wide berth, such as at Hannah Point, an excellent landing site. About five pairs of Macaroni Penguins are nesting in the Chinstraps and Gentoos colonies at Hannah Point. Due to the expeditionary nature of our voyage, specific stops cannot be guaranteed, but we will be visiting many islands with large penguin rookeries. Accompanied by our naturalists, we will land often and stay as long as possible, abiding by the "Guidelines for Responsible Eco-tourism."
Named after the 16th century English seaman, Sir Francis Drake, this waterway of about 600 miles separates the southernmost tip of South America from Antarctica. We cross the Antarctic Polar Front ("Convergence") approximately halfway across the Drake Passage at about 59 degrees 08 L S and 63 degrees 20 L W. Those on the lookout may sight several species of albatross and petrels, a good area for Blue Petrel, also for Royal Albatross following the ship. Sperm Whales and other pods of whales have been sighted in the Passage. On the 22nd, almost 500 miles north of the South Shetlands, we should be near Cape Horn. Although a landing is not possible at the Cape Horn Lighthouse, we will get as close as possible, within one mile. The offshore area is as rich as Monterey Bay in California and the seabirds are usually present in good numbers, especially Sooty Shearwaters and Black-browed Albatross if the sea is calm. Peale's Dolphins are also a good possibility, sometimes in schools of hundreds. This evening back in the Beagle Channel, enjoy a scenic cruise all the way to Ushuaia. Tuesday to Wednesday, January 23 - 24 Return to Ushuaia
All cabins include a desk and ample storage space. Public areas feature a large dining room (one sitting), an observation lounge and bar, a conference room with modern multimedia equipment, a well-stocked library, a changing room and a small infirmary. It is staffed with a Chilean and Argentinean crew. Our expert captain, officers and crew are highly experienced in Antarctic navigation and have a great love of nature. We provide a specialist team of international expedition leaders and lecturers, all extremely knowledgeable, enthusiastic, helpful and dedicated to the protection of the environment. Our chefs prepare excellent cuisine including many local specialties and the bar is well-stocked with carefully selected wines and spirits. The Ushuaia will carry four mark V zodiacs and five RIBs, (rigid, inflatable boats) allowing faster access to landings - more time ashore! A “chit” system will operate for onboard payments. Accommodation: Suites: Outside cabins with windows on the upper deck (G), private facilities, two lower berths, lounge, TV, video, VHS, DVD, fridge. Suites 204 and 207 feature a third berth. Suite 207 has portholes. A cabins: Twin outside cabins with portholes on the upper deck (G), private facilities, two berths (lower or upper/lower). B cabins: Twin outside cabins with portholes on the main deck (E) and semi-private facilities, two berths (upper/lower). C cabins: Twin inside cabins on the lower deck (D) with semi-private facilities, two berths (upper/lower).
Note - Semi-private facilities: two cabins share one bathroom accessible from both cabins (shower and wc). Each cabin is also equipped with its own washbasin.
Reservations: To reserve a place, contact us first and mail a deposit (amount based on cabin and date). Mail the reservation form (requires Adobe Acrobat) and deposit to: Cheesemans' Ecology SafarisFor questions, comments or reservations, e-mail us at: info@Cheesemans.com or use our information form. Payments & Cancellations:
Fuel Surcharge: There is a possibility of a fuel surcharge if fuel prices rise dramatically. Travel Insurance: Trip insurance forms are available from us and will be sent with in-depth trip information and your deposit receipt at the time of making your reservation. Single Occupancy: No single cabins are available. Double occupancy cabins may be booked on a single basis at 1.9 times the published rate. If you are willing to have a roommate, there will be no single supplement charge. Electrical Current: 110 and 220 volts available in most rooms. The electrical outlet sockets are the standard European two round-pin system, with at least one USA-style outlet per room. If you are coming from a country with a different system, bring a suitable adapter. Not included in base price: Dinner on December 28th as outlined in the itinerary, air transportation, airport departure taxes, separate transfers in Buenos Aires, and personal items, such as laundry, bar charges, wine, liquor, faxes/telephone/cable charges, insurance and a tip to the ship's crew. Gratuity to the ship's crew (approximately $12 per passenger per day, total $300, recommended). Conditions: Non-smoking Policy. Travel to remote places like Antarctica is exciting, but understanding and accepting the risks, both medical and logistical, are important. There is a small infirmary on board the ship and minor medical problems can be treated, but due to the remoteness of most of our itinerary, there can be no expectation for medical evacuation by air or ship, even in cases of trauma. If this fact concerns you too much, do not choose this trip for your vacation. Anyone with health problems needing close medical supervision should not consider going on this trip. Bring enough medication for the duration of the trip for any chronic medical needs, including medication or patches for seasickness. When you send your tour deposit and signed reservation form, you certify to us that you do not knowingly have any physical or other conditions that would create a risk for yourself or for other trip participants. Responsibility: Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris, Saratoga, California, act only as agents and shall not be responsible or become liable for any delay incurred by any person in connection with any means of transportation, nor for the loss, damage, or injury to person or property by reason of any event beyond the control of the agency or default of such agency suppliers. We reserve the right to cancel the tour prior to departure in which case full refund will constitute full settlement to the passenger. No refund will be made for any unused portion of the tour unless arrangements are made at the time of booking. All rates are based on current tariffs and exchange rates and are subject to adjustment in the event of any change therein. By sending your initial deposit, you agree to accept our payment schedule as a contract. If payments are still outstanding two weeks after the due date, your space may be forfeited. Baggage is at the owner's risk.
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