King Penguins on South Georgia

We are full members of IAATO

Black-browed Albatross on Steeple Jason, Falklands

Macaroni Penguins on South Georgia

• Dec. 27 - 28: Fly to Ushuaia; overnight the 28th in Ushuaia, the world’s southernmost port town.
• Dec. 29: Morning in Tierra del Fuego National Park. Embark from Ushuaia on the Polar Star.
• Dec. 30: Albatross at our stern & the prevailing current with us to the Falklands.
• Dec. 31 – Jan. 2: Three days in the Falklands at private reserves on four islands, including Steeple Jason.
• Jan. 3 - 4: Cruise the South Scotia Sea to South Georgia across the rich waters of the Polar Front.
• Jan. 5 - 10: South Georgia, six days in an unforgettable wildlife extravaganza.
• Jan. 11 - 13: Cruising the South Atlantic to Antarctica via the South Orkneys to Paulet Island.
• Jan. 14 - 20: The Antarctic Peninsula, the richest and most diverse of this unique continent.
• Jan. 21 - 22: Cruise the Drake Passage and up the Beagle Channel to Ushuaia.
• Jan. 23 - 24: Fly to Buenos Aires on Jan. 23 to connect with evening flight; arrive home Jan. 24.

Antarctica Leaders and Staff for Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris

Macaroni Penguin, South Georgia

Southern Elephant Seal, South Georgia

JIM DANZENBAKER (Seabird Lecturer and Naturalist on Watch at Sea) Jim is a very enthusiastic seabirder and gives great slide shows about the birds we encounter. Onshore Jim will lead the way to the best viewing areas and point out interesting wildlife behavior. He will encourage you to join him and our other naturalists on the bridge wings for some exciting seabird experiences. Jim also leads tours to the Neotropics.

HUGH ROSE (Naturalist, Lecturer and Zodiac Driver) Hugh brings to this expedition over a decade of professional guiding experience in Alaska and Antarctica. Hugh will share his understanding of wildlife, natural history, geology and photography with walks onshore, including photo seminars. Hugh also leads our Alaskan journeys and one of our Galapagos tours to great praise from all participants.

BUFF CORSI (Videographer and Biologist) Buff will hold a multi-part seminar on videography during the expedition and will produce both the ship’s log and video documentary. Buff pursued her lifelong interest in biology for many years at the California Academy of Sciences as head of their travel program. Always a photographer, she has come to love the creative process of video editing. Buff’s partner, JERRY CORSI, is also a professional photographer and we are very fortunate to have him joining us also.

LES CHIBANA (Ornithologist, Artist and Zodiac Driver) has led trips for Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris throughout the Hawaiian. Before moving to Hawaii, Les was a volunteer bird-bander at the San Francisco Bay Bird Observatory's Coyote Creek Field Station for many years and taught birding classes throughout the bay area. Les will be conducting a drawing workshop during our voyage, where he will help you uncover your own artistic talent amid plenty of awesome subjects. Les is also an avid bird photographer.

CRAIG POORE (Historian and Entertainer) is a new addition to the staff, but a veteran of several Antarctica expeditions. He will lecture on Southern Ocean history, including early exploration, the heroic age and the more recent conflict in the Falklands/Malvinas. On board he'll be on deck watching for cetaceans and heading up our conservation fund raiser. On shore he assists with Zodiac logistics. Craig travels a lot for his full-time job in the software industry and is an expert on packing, as well as on Southern Ocean history. He has authored an excellent Antarctic packing list and (in the spirit of Amundsen) has put a lot of study into packing a bag for Antarctica that is complete, while still being reasonably light and manageable.

CARTER COX (Captain of Zodiac operations) Carter has led Zodiac operations for all of our previous Cheesemans' Antarctic expeditions without mishap. When the weather gets rough, trust Carter to stay in control. Carter is one of Doug’s former students in biology, zoology and ecology. He is a contractor when at home in Northern California.

STEVE HENRY (Ship's doctor) and LINDA HENRY (Ship’s nurse) Steve and Linda have been the ship's Doctor and Nurse for six polar expeditions with Cheesemans Ecology Safaris. Steve is semi-retired after a long career with Kaiser in San Jose, California. Linda is a former surgical nurse. They both have a long-standing interest in wilderness medicine.

Try and find another expedition with 15 leaders!

ITINERARY:

Saturday - Sunday, December 27 - 28, 2008 International Flights to Ushuaia
Depart by December 27 to arrive in Buenos Aires (EZE) by mid-morning on December 28 at the latest to connect with the afternoon flight from the domestic airport in Buenos Aires (AEP) to Ushuaia. Three hours minimum is necessary between flights to have time to transfer with your baggage from EZE, the international airport, to AEP, the domestic airport. Flights are available to Ushuaia from Aeroparque Airport (AEP) in Buenos Aires both morning and afternoon and from the international airport (EZE) at 8:30 am. Upon arrival in Ushuaia you will be met by our transfer agent, Rumbo Sur, for the transfer to Hotel Albatros, an excellent hotel centrally located in this beautiful town. Ushuaia has grown from 8,000 to more than 100,000 inhabitants in the last twenty-five years. Although becoming the largest town in Tierra del Fuego so quickly has resulted in some growing pains, it is a charming town, especially on a sunny day. Many shops are devoted to tourism. Dinner is on our own on December 28. Lodging on December 28: Hotel Albatros

Monday, December 29 Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego National Park & embarkation
On this day you will enjoy exploring the ‘end of the world’ while your luggage will be sent ahead to the Polar Star. Hope for blue skies for a trip to Tierra del Fuego National Park in Southern Beech forest, picnic lunch included. Walk up to a lookout, a good spot to sight Andean Condor. Peale’s Dolphins are a possibility in the channels within the National Park and the walk along the shores is fascinating. Land birds include three species of caracara, an incredible diversity of geese, thrushes and other Tierra del Fuegan passerines. On our previous trips we have sometimes found Magellanic Woodpecker and Andean Condor here. After lunch, plan to stop at the excellent small natural history and cultural museum near the waterfront in Ushuaia.

By 4:00 p.m. board the MV Polar Star, which will be waiting at the dock. We’ll find our cabins and get ready for embarkation in the early evening. The Polar Star will pull anchor and head east down the Beagle Channel. As Ushuaia fades in the distance, we will find ourselves cruising largely uninhabited scenic shores. It’s hard to believe that all along these shores of the Beagle Channel are hollows where the Hshgans (Tierra del Fuegans) once lived and built their huts. The beautiful evergreen Nothophagus trees (Southern Beech), strongly wind pruned, fill every protected valley between the gently rolling hills with mountains behind. Look for new species, such as Chilean Skua, South American Tern, King Cormorant (Blue-eyed Shag), Kelp Gull and Dolphin Gulls, and Black-browed Albatross. Our staff on board will spot and identify these species. Enjoy our first dinner together aboard ship, a very special occasion indeed. Dusk will linger late enticing us to stay up watching for seabirds and the spectacular scenery. After sunset, phytoplankton phosphorescing on the water and a brilliant, starry sky may be the rewards.

Tuesday, December 30 At Sea

Black-browed Albatross, Falkland Islands

Humpback Whale

Wednesday to Friday, December 31 – January 2 FALKLAND ISLANDS
Out of the 300 or more islands in the Falklands, we plan to land on four of the best for wildlife viewing and photography. The Falklands, a British colony approximately 300 miles east of South America and 700 miles north of Antarctica, about 400 miles from Ushuaia, has a temperate, but sometimes foggy climate where we hope to enjoy some of their rare Austral summer sunshine. On New Island, West Point Island, Carcass Island, and Steeple Jason Island, highlights will be three species of penguins in their colonies, Rockhoppers, Magellanics, and Gentoos. We may walk to seek out the Magellanics and land birds of the Falklands, species that are not to be found on South Georgia. We must pay close attention to staying out of the areas that contain many fragile prion burrows and Southern Giant Petrels nests (especially on New Island and Steeple Jason). We should see most of the birds of the Falklands including the fantastic flightless Steamer Ducks, Ruddy-headed Goose, caracaras, shorebirds, and passerines, such as Tussock-bird, Dark-faced Ground Tyrant, Long-tailed Meadowlark, and Black-throated Finch. The Black-browed Albatross will be nesting high in the cliffs where we will have amazing views of them courting atop their conical mud nests. Here South American Fur Seal is a good possibility although their numbers have been declining rapidly. Highlights include the Peale’s and Commerson’s Dolphins that occasionally bow ride on the ship or even alongside the Zodiacs going from ship to shore and back. We will also meet our hosts, Tony Chater and Ian Strange on New Island, the Napier family, owners of Westpoint Island, and on Carcass, owner Rob McGill. These islands are privately owned and open to ecotourism on a very limited basis. Carcass Island has the best species diversity due to never having rats on the island. The owners of these islands are keenly working to protect the resident wildlife. Both the owners on New Island, Ian Strange and Tony Chater, are artists and have designed many of the wonderful Falkland postal stamps, real collector’s items. Ian Strange is also author of an excellent field guide to the natural history of the Falklands.

Our first night in the Falklands, enjoy a dramatic New Year’s Eve celebration as we begin the year 2009, a memorable holiday gathering with all our shipmates. Two fantastic landings are planned for New Year’s Day: in the morning on Westpoint Island and in the afternoon on Carcass Island. We hope to follow with a landing on the outermost northwest island, Steeple Jason, a reserve owned by the New York Zoological Society, where more Black-browed Albatross nest than anywhere else on earth! The vast colony of albatross is mind-boggling. All the other Falkland specialties are there also. Landings are always subject to weather conditions, so we will hope for calm weather characteristic of this season.

Tuesday to Thursday, January 1 - 3 FALKLAND ISLANDS
We'll celebrate New Year's Day on New Island. Out of the 300 or more islands in the Falklands, we plan to land on four of the best for wildlife viewing and photography. The Falklands, a British colony approximately 300 miles east of South America and 700 miles north of Antarctica, about 400 miles from Ushuaia, has a temperate, but very foggy climate where we hope to enjoy some of their rare Austral summer sunshine. On New Island, West Point Island, Carcass Island, and Steeple Jason Island, highlights will be three species of penguins in their colonies, Rockhoppers, Magellanics, and Gentoos. We may walk to seek out the Magellanics and land birds of the Falklands, species that are not to be found on South Georgia. We must pay close attention to staying out of the areas that contain many fragile prion burrows and Southern Giant Petrels nests (especially on New Island and Steeple Jason). We should see most of the birds of the Falklands including the fantastic flightless Steamer Ducks, Ruddy-headed Goose, caracaras, shorebirds, and passerines, such as Tussock-bird, Dark-faced Ground Tyrant, Long-tailed Meadowlark, and Black-throated Finch. The Black-browed Albatross will be nesting high in the cliffs where we will have amazing views of them courting atop their conical mud nests. Here South American Fur Seal is a good possibility although their numbers have been declining rapidly. Highlights include the Peale's and Commerson's Dolphins that occasionally bow ride on the ship or even alongside the Zodiacs going from ship to shore and back. We will also meet our hosts, Tony Chater and Ian Strange on New Island, the Napier family who own Westpoint Island, and on Carcass, owner Rob McGill. These islands are privately owned and open to ecotourism on a very limited basis. Carcass Island has the best species diversity due to never having rats on the island. The owners of these islands are keenly working to protect the resident wildlife. Both the owners on New Island, Ian Strange and Tony Chater, are artists and have designed many of the wonderful Falkland postal stamps, real collector's items. Ian Strange is also author of the excellent field guide to the natural history of the Falklands.

Two fantastic landings are planned on Wednesday: in the morning on Westpoint Island and in the afternoon on Carcass Island. On Thursday we hope to land on the outermost northwest island, Steeple Jason, a privately owned reserve, where more Black-browed Albatross nest than anywhere else on earth! The vast colony of albatross is mind-boggling. All the other Falkland specialties are there also. Landings are always subject to weather conditions, so we will hope for calm weather characteristic of this season.

Saturday - Sunday, January 3 – 4 At Sea Southeast to South Georgia
By Friday morning we will be far from the Falklands, southward bound, heading southeast to South Georgia! In these waters we cross the Polar Front (aka the Antarctic Convergence) and officially enter Antarctic waters. The birds rounding our stern will be outstanding, especially the large albatrosses. The richness of these waters is evident in the marine mammal life, especially the fur seals on fishing forays. There is a chance of sighting whales, such as Fins and Minkies. Fin Whales are very difficult to approach, as they are the fastest of the rorqual whales and can quickly leave us behind. We have counted in these waters eight species of petrels (Cape, Soft-plumaged, White-headed, Atlantic, Blue, White-chinned, and Southern and Northern Giant Petrels), three species of storm-petrels (Gray-backed, Black-bellied and Wilson’s), Common Diving-Petrel, six species of albatross, (Grey-headed, Light-mantled Sooty, Wandering, Northern and Southern Royal, and of course, Black-browed), thousands of Antarctic Prions, plus Greater and Sooty shearwaters and Southern Fulmars.

At the ever-changing Polar Front two bodies of water meet. As the salty, cold Antarctic water mixes alongside warmer, fresher water from the north, water temperatures plummet from about 6° to 8° C down to 2° C in a period of about eight hours cruising. With this change the bird population begins to include more Cape Petrels, Southern Fulmars, and even Snow Petrel as we come around the northeast end of South Georgia. One year Snow Petrels were sighted further north than the normal 55° latitude south, at 53° S. There is excellent birding in this area. During this time at sea, crossing about 800 nautical miles from the Falklands, we will have lectures on the wildlife, wildlife photography, ecology, geology, and history of the Scotia Sea and South Georgia. The prevailing current will be in our direction and sailing is often very smooth.

SOUTH GEORGIA ISLANDS
(our favorite place in the world!)

Gentoo Penguin

Monday to Saturday, January 5 – 10 SOUTH GEORGIA ISLAND
Arrival time at South Georgia will depend on weather conditions. One of the most remote islands in the world, South Georgia provides a magnificent highlight of our trip, as we spend six days in this wild landscape of penguins and seals. The mountainous rugged interior, a geologic continuation of the Andes Chain, is carved by more than 150 glaciers into spectacular fjords and ringed by islands. South Georgia has incredible possibilities for landings all along the eastern coastline, which we will explore during these six days. At Cooper Bay we will strive to get close to the marvelous Macaroni Penguins at this accessible landing. Macaronis are the more southerly equivalent of the Rockhoppers. Macaronis, the most numerous of all the penguins on South Georgia, nest in the most inaccessible areas down fairly steep cliffs. The easiest penguins to see and photograph, as long as the weather cooperates, are the King Penguins, which nest on the uplifted beach terraces, such as at Gold Harbour and Fortuna Bay. Viewed from the ship, they look like tightly packed white dots flowing from the hills like glaciers. Their colonies are best described as landscapes of penguins. At Salisbury Plains in the Bay of Isles, an estimated 250,000 King Penguins nest. South of Grytviken, St. Andrew’s Bay is also high on our list of possible landings to experience a huge King Penguin colony, the largest colony at South Georgia.

An unforgettable experience will be on Prion Island in the Bay of Isles. Each pair of Wandering Albatross has a private estate of at least 30 meters square around the nest site for courtship and take-offs and landings, a real contrast with the King Penguin’s territory of less than one meter square. Here also are the Southern Giant Petrels quietly incubating as long as you keep your distance. The beautifully torpedo sculptured Light-mantled Sooty Albatross nests on the cliffs and glides by calling its eerie vocalization. The most southern land bird is here, the South Georgia Pipit, endemic to only South Georgia. South Georgia Pintails reside in freshwater ponds among the tussock grass. These ducks survive the winter months by scavenging on carcasses. Also on Prion Island, we’ll keep our distance from the Antarctic Fur Seals. We provide walking sticks for anyone who does not carry a tripod in case you need to tickle their whiskers, a gentle way to keep an aggressive seal at bay. Female Antarctic Fur Seals control males by snapping at their whiskers.

King Penguins mating

At Grytviken whaling station, the busiest whaling station in the world for over 50 years, we will absorb whaling history. The museum now has excellent natural history exhibits as well. South Georgia is now a British Antarctic Territory. The history of Antarctic exploration comes alive as we listen to our historian tell of the adventures of Sir Ernest Shackleton. This famous explorer crossed the rugged backbone of South Georgia from the west to arrive at the Stromness Whaling Station on the east side seeking help for his men stranded on Elephant Island. The Endurance crew, hand picked by Sir Ernest Shackleton in England for his 1914-1917 expedition, survived on the nutritious, though unappetizing, meat of penguins and seals while waiting for rescue on Elephant Island. Their ship, the Endurance, was crushed by ice in the Weddell Sea. Shackleton and his men had set off in small boats and landed at Elephant Island with hardly any landing room below the steep cliffs along the shore. From here, Shackleton and a handful of men continued in a small boat to South Georgia, one of the greatest sea journeys of all time. They successfully returned to Elephant Island 105 days later to rescue the men. Alongside the graveyard in Grytviken where Shackleton is buried, many young Southern Elephant Seals, no longer hunted for oil, now snooze together.

We will also visit Gentoo Penguins in many small colonies along the northeast coastline. At this time they are nesting at the height of their breeding activities and are frequenting the beaches. Penguins porpoise alongside the ship, as we travel the wild and rugged coastline. There may even be a Fairy Prion if you have an eye for searching through the large prion flocks circling the ship. Unfortunately the whales were so thoroughly hunted in the last century that few are to be seen in the South Georgian waters; they are only just beginning their comeback. We have had excellent looks at Fin Whales on the way to South Georgia, so we are hopeful that more will be seen on this expedition. Also on our previous charters two species of beaked whales, Southern Bottlenose Whale and Cuvier’s Beaked Whale, were seen, with several sightings of the former. The bones of Blue Whales and other cetaceans are often seen on shore at South Georgia and on the Peninsula, but now are rarely seen. Southern Right Whales are beginning to make a comeback in this area, especially later in March.

King Penguin

Sunday - Tuesday, January 11 – 13 Cruising South via the South Orkneys to Paulet
Our route to Antarctica will be dictated by the pack ice and will be most interesting. Icebergs will be scattered throughout our path as we approach the South Orkney Islands. We’ll also have two days at sea to gather on the bridge to spot Humpback Whales, Southern Fulmars, and hopefully Antarctic Petrel, Kerguelen Petrel, and Snow Petrel, one of the most beautiful birds of the Southern Ocean, and search for blue icebergs with penguins aloft. Some of the lectures onboard ship during this time will be given by Jim Danzenbaker speaking on skuas and penguins, Doug Cheeseman on whales and seals, Art Ford on geology, Ted Cheeseman on climate change, Edward Rooks on drawing wildlife, and Hugh Rose, Rod Planck and Tim Davis on photo techniques. The Observation Lounge, where the lectures are given, is also a great place to view spectacular iceberg scenery, as we travel further south. At the South Orkneys we plan one landing if ice conditions permit at 60° latitude South. Shingle Cove in the NW corner of Iceberg Bay on the south coast of Coronation Island was named for the shingle on the landing beach at the south shore of the cove. The cove is beautifully colored with orange lichens, green grass and moss and has nesting Snow Petrels and Pintados nearby. (In this area of Antarctica and south we follow a strict eco-code: maintain 15 feet from all wildlife, except if you are approached by an animal, meaning both birds and mammals, and absolutely avoid walking on lichens, moss and the one species of grass.)

ANTARCTICA!

Wednesday to Tuesday, January 14 – 20 ANTARCTIC PENINSULA
At this end of the Earth, the vast quiet, openness and scale of nature opens our senses. Great respect must be given to the fragile vegetation and to the wildlife colonies. Each participant is requested to keep good protocol fresh in mind during all landings! We will hope for magnificent sunsets, sculpted blue icebergs, and close penguin and whale encounters, each with the potential of an in-depth experience that we will never forget. We will be cruising historical waters where the Swedish Expedition led by Nordenskjold and the British Expedition led by Shackleton passed in their attempts to reach the continent via the Weddell Sea. Theirs are the most amazing true survival accounts that one could imagine. We hope to visit sites where the penguins and seals that sustained these explorers have taken over leaving only faint clues of the makeshift homes where the men spent many months before being rescued. If ice conditions permit, we will arrive at the Peninsula via Paulet Island, site of a vast Adelie Penguin colony and another island that supplied sustenance to stranded sailors from the Nordenskjold Expedition, an equally exciting survival story to Shakleton’s experience.

Chinstrap Penguin in Ecstatic Display

A warming trend has been experienced in the Southern Ocean during the last few decades, showing clear evidence of climate change. The Antarctic Peninsula has been feeling this warming the most, with an amazing 9°F warming in average winter temperatures over the last 50 years. This has dramatically changed and reduced ice distributions. But we will still be among a world of spectacular icebergs! Normally while we are here, in the Antarctic summertime on the Peninsula, the coldest temperatures we will experience during landings will be in the 30s F. It is more like winter temperatures at west coast ski resorts, very pleasant with a jacket on, and certainly nothing like wintertime temperatures in Antarctica.

Our first Antarctic Peninsula landing, we hope, will be Paulet Island in the Weddell Sea where we can count on finding many penguins on icebergs. It is the largest Adelie Penguin colony that we will encounter, located on a very interesting volcanic island. On the west side of the Antarctic Peninsula we will enter Bransfield Strait, and then head southward into Gerlache Strait. Here the Humpback Whales have made a tremendous comeback. We can expect wonderful whale behavior in the summer feeding grounds here. The krill swarms are enormous, sometimes visible on the ship’s fathometer (depth sounder). We will find many Gentoo Penguin colonies and Chinstraps, often in mixed colonies on our Antarctica landings, and their attendant scavengers, Snowy Sheathbills, Brown and South Polar Skuas, and Kelp Gulls.

Paradise Bay, Lemaire Channel, Neumeyer Channel, the South Shetland Islands
Paradise Bay, one of the most beautiful areas in Antarctica, is one of our favorite places for Zodiac cruising in the inner part of the bay near the spectacular glaciers and ethereal mountains. Conditions permitting, we may walk up for an unforgettable view of surrounding mountains and glaciers at Almirante Brown, an Argentine station in Paradise Bay on the Peninsula. Don’t try the ship’s satellite phone while in these bays; it won’t penetrate the high peaks! Here we are completely surrounded with ice-draped peaks soaring out of the water for several thousand feet. While cruising in bays along the Antarctic Peninsula, hope to discover Weddell, Crabeater, and maybe Leopard Seals on ice floes.

Cruising onboard ship down to Petermann Island will certainly be an unforgettable experience. Many Crabeater and Weddell seals and a good number of Leopard Seals will be on hauled out on ice floes along the way, and whales may surface between the floes. Hanging ice cliffs, the fronts of highly fractured tidewater glaciers, back most of the shoreline. Petermann Island, at 65° S in the southern part of the Lemaire Channel, has a large colony of Adelies and Gentoos with Blue-eyed Shag colonies on the edges. We will plan an evening landing here in beautiful light hopefully taking full advantage of the continuous daylight.

After a memorable southernmost navigation, we begin our return north, on the lookout for cetaceans, including Orcas and even rare beaked whales. We plan to visit the sprawling Gentoo Penguin colony at Port Lockroy, located at the end of the very narrow, beautiful Peltier Channel close to the Neumeyer Channel. We’ll try a landing at tiny Cuverville Island with Gentoo Penguins on the headlands and/or at adjacent Rongé Island near a Chinstrap Penguin colony. Perhaps cruise with Humpbacks swimming among the icebergs offshore in these waters where whale populations escaped the worst of the whaling period.

Chinstrap Penguins

Deception Island in the South Shetlands is one of the most exciting islands, as it is very active volcanically. We hope to land on both the outside wall and inside the caldera center that opens to the ocean via a narrow gap called “Neptune’s Bellows.” The landing at Bailey Head on the outside has close to half a million Chinstraps nesting at this time of year, but the sea can be a bit tricky with steep swells crashing on an exposed beach. Inside Deception’s huge caldera we can make a fascinating landing, including hiking up the mountainside to the lookout among the lichen draped cliffs. One of the most unique experiences is soaking in thermal pools alongside the beach at Pendulum Cove in clouds of steam. The water temperature can be fairly comfortable, although sometimes it’s so hot that it’s necessary to mix it with colder water. If you stiffen up your arms and flap underwater like a penguin, it helps. Somehow penguins are a lot more agile underwater than we are! Sometimes there are a number of Weddell Seals basking on the beach at Whaler’s Bay. We land if the tide is correct and the weather is favorable. Further north in the South Shetland Island Group we might encounter more lichens and even lush moss. In the penguin colonies we will also encounter all of the usual rookery scavengers: skuas, gulls, giant-petrels, and Snowy Sheathbills, some of them also guarding their nests. Kelp Gulls especially are very wary and easily frightened from their nest, so we have to give their nests a wide berth, such as at Hannah Point, an excellent landing site. About five pairs of Macaroni Penguins are nesting in the Chinstraps and Gentoos colonies at Hannah Point.

Wednesday to Thursday, January 21 – 22 DRAKE PASSAGE & BEAGLE CHANNEL
Named after the 16th century English seaman, Sir Francis Drake, this waterway of about 600 miles separates the southernmost tip of South America from Antarctica. We cross the Antarctic Convergence approximately halfway across the Drake Passage at about 59¾ 08´ S and 63¾ 20´ W. Those on the lookout may sight several species of albatross and petrels, a good area for Blue Petrel, also for Royal Albatross following the ship. Sperm Whales and other pods of whales have been sighted in the Passage. It is during this passage we’ll find ourselves almost 500 miles north of the South Shetlands where we will be near Cape Horn. Although a landing is not possible at the Cape Horn Lighthouse mostly due to the chilly relations between Chile and Argentina, we will get as close as possible. The offshore area is as rich as seawaters can be and the seabirds are usually present in huge numbers, especially Sooty Shearwaters and Black-browed Albatross if the sea is calm. Peale’s Dolphins are also a good possibility, sometimes in schools of hundreds. This evening back in the Beagle Channel, enjoy a scenic cruise all the way to Ushuaia.

Friday to Saturday, January 23 – 24 Return to Ushuaia and arrive home
By early morning on January 23 we will dock at Ushuaia where we will be reluctant to say good-by to our spirited shipmates! Disembark the ship after breakfast and connect with our flight back to Buenos Aires or to other points in Argentina. Our local agent, Rumbo Sur, will collect the checked luggage in their luggage van to be checked in as a group at the Ushuaia Airport. For homeward flights, fly by early afternoon from Ushuaia, arriving at the international airport in Buenos Aires to connect in the evening to Miami, New York, London and other points with night flight connections. If you wish to stay longer in Ushuaia, stop in Buenos Aires or fly elsewhere in Argentina or Chile, we are happy to assist you with the arrangements.

Due to the expeditionary nature of our voyage, specific stops cannot be guaranteed, but we will be visiting many islands with large penguin rookeries. Accompanied by our naturalists, we will land often and stay as long as possible, abiding by the "Guidelines for Responsible Ecotourism".

The ship and crew: The ice-ship, M/V Polar Star, is the flagship of our charter company, Polar Star Expeditions. We are chartering the entire ship for this expedition, in order to make our in-depth itinerary possible. The MV Polar Star is 86.5 meters (268 feet) in length with a maximum speed of 14 knots. She can carry sufficient fuel and provisions for up to 70 days, and can make sufficient water throughout the voyage that we do not have to restock. She was built in Finland in 1969, and joined the Swedish Maritime Administration’s fleet of icebreakers with the name of NJORD. She went through major rebuilding and modernization in 1988, and again in 2000. Karlsen Shipping Norway A/S now owns her. The Polar Star is the first icebreaker to be fully converted for expedition cruising, with an extensive stabilization system. The ship’s chefs will prepare varied cuisine with three choices at dinner, including a vegetarian option. Polar Star Expeditions provides a top Hotel Manager, assistant and bartender. Excellent laundry service is available through the cabin stewardesses. The MV Polar Star has a large dining room, a lecture hall, bar, library, lounge, and small shop. It is staffed with a Canadian, European and Philippine crew, and has a small infirmary. She will carry ten Zodiacs, allowing faster access to landings - more time ashore! A “chit” system will operate for onboard payments.

Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris
20800 Kittredge Road
Saratoga, CA 95070

Telephone: (800) 527-5330
Locally (408) 741-5330
Fax: (408) 741-0358

• Initial deposit: $1000 to $2500 per person, depending on cabin.
• Second deposit: $2000 due June 1, 2007.
• Third deposit: $2000 due December 1, 2007.
• Fourth deposit: $3000 due June 1, 2008.
• Final payment due September 1, 2008.

Please note that the cost of this expedition is set to reflect current fuel prices. Fuel prices have fluctuated dramatically in recent years, and as fuel is a major portion of the cost of this expedition, we cannot possibly account for this fluctuation completely. If fuel prices are substantially lower at the time of our departure, we may be able to pass on this savings to expedition participants. If fuel prices are substantially higher, we may have to collect a fuel surcharge.

Refunds are given based on the number of days to departure as follows:

Travel Insurance: Unless you specifically decline travel insurance, Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris requires, at a minimum, insurance to cover emergency medical care and evacuation for the duration of the tour. We have had good experience with Access America. Visit their website for complete details and we will also send you their brochure with your trip materials. You can purchase a policy via their website, phone or by mail. If you choose, separate trip cancellation insurance to cover trip costs is also available. Whatever insurance you purchase, be sure to review the terms of all available policies carefully in order to buy the policy that you need. Do understand that in the event of your cancellation, you will lose the cancellation fee as stipulated in the trip itinerary.

Trip cancellation insurance: Please take a moment to learn if this type of insurance would be in your best interest. Do understand that in the event of your cancellation, you will lose the cancellation fee as stipulated in the trip itinerary.

Single Occupancy: No single cabins are available. Double occupancy cabins may be booked on a single basis at 1.9 times the published rate. If you are willing to have a roommate, there will be no single supplement charge.

Electrical Current: 110 and 220 volts available in most rooms. The electrical outlet sockets are the European two round-pin system, with at least one USA-style outlet per room. If you are coming from a country with a different system, bring a suitable adapter.

Not included in base price: Dinner on Dec. 28 as outlined in the itinerary, air transportation, airport departure taxes, separate transfers in Buenos Aires, a possible fuel surcharge, personal items, such as laundry, bar charges, wine, liquor, faxes/telephone/cable charges, insurance and a tip to the ship’s crew (recommend $12 - $15 passenger per day).

Trip log: After the completion of your expedition you can look forward to a finalized log mailed directly to your home. This very descriptive trip log includes daily sightings, trip accounts and excellent photography throughout our incredible journey.

Conditions: Non-smoking Policy. Travel to remote places like Antarctica is exciting, but understanding and accepting the risks, both medical and logistical, is important. There is a small infirmary on board the ship and minor medical problems can be treated, but due to the remoteness of most of our itinerary, there can be no expectation for medical evacuation by air or ship, even in cases of trauma. If this fact concerns you too much, do not choose this trip for your vacation. Anyone with health problems needing close medical supervision should not consider going on this trip. Bring enough medication for the duration of the trip for any chronic medical needs, including medication or patches for seasickness. When you send your tour deposit and signed reservation form, you certify to us that you do not knowingly have any physical or other conditions that would create a risk for yourself or for other trip participants.

Seasickness: Don’t let a fear of seasickness scare you away! To be sure, over the years many who have dreamed of experiencing Antarctica with us have stayed home for fear of seasickness. But of all those who have joined, we know of only one passenger who said that seasickness really affected her enjoyment of the trip. Still however, that same passenger talked about repeating the trip because she enjoyed it so much in sum!

For all but the most sensitive, motion sickness is only a problem during the four open ocean passages. This is a total of approximately six days and nine nights. The passage from Ushuaia to the Falkland Islands is usually quite smooth because we remain on the continental shelf and travel with currents for the entire distance. Days and nights when we are landing or cruising between landings are quite calm because we are very close to land. The ship has an excellent stabilizing system, but the Southern Ocean has the potential for the worst seas in the world. They have a horrible reputation not because they are always rough (indeed not, on the average day, the seas are actually quite calm!) but because their extremes are large. If we are hit by a storm during a crossing, the experience will be memorable! For this reason, unless you know you are immovable by the heavy seas, come prepared. Doug and Ted are quite susceptible to seasickness yet they come back year after year; they love the Antarctic but know to always come prepared! Doug depends on the Dexedrine span/Phenergan combination, while Ted currently prefers Scopolamine ('Transderm Scop, or ‘the patch’) and sometimes uses the ReliefBand.

Responsibility: Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris, Saratoga, California, act only as agents and shall not be responsible or become liable for any delay incurred by any person in connection with any means of transportation, nor for the loss, damage or injury to person or property by reason of any event beyond the control of the agency or default of such agency suppliers. The right is reserved to cancel the cruise prior to departure, in which case full refund will constitute full settlement to the passenger. Termination of this expedition in progress for any reason will not necessarily result in a refund, and no refund will be made for partially used portions of air tickets or land arrangements. All rates are based on current tariffs and exchange rates and are subject to adjustment in the event of any change therein. Baggage is at the owner's risk.

Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris is registered as California Seller of Travel #2063050-40. Registration as a seller of travel does not constitute approval by the State of California. All payments for transportation or travel service not provided to the passenger shall be promptly refunded, in accordance with terms described above, unless the passenger otherwise instructs us, in writing. All client payments are deposited into a trust account in accordance with California law. This business is a participant in the Travel Consumer Restitution Corporation (TCRC). We will always make due refunds in a timely manner, as we have for over twenty years. However, if we didn't, you, the passenger, may request reimbursement from the TCRC within six months of the scheduled end of the tour. Please feel free to ask us for more information.
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