Antarctic Peninsula, South Georgia,
and Falkland (Malvinas) Islands
December 28, 2009 to January 25, 2010

More testamonials.

Join us on a voyage of discovery to an awe-inspiring world devoted to nature, wildlife, science and peace. From the stunning vistas of Tierra del Fuego to the busy penguin rookeries of the Falklands (Malvinas), from the dramatic landscapes of South Georgia to the ice-covered terrain of the Antarctic, this safari will have you completely captivated. Board the comfortable and safe 87 meter ice ship, the MV Polar Star, for an expedition offering an unparalleled seventeen landing days in the Southern Ocean. All meals onboard are included. Our voyage includes three days in the Falklands (Malvinas) to see a huge diversity of species, six at South Georgia, the all-but undiscovered rugged land of towering mountains and vibrant colonies of penguins, seals and albatross, one day at the South Orkneys with nesting Snow Petrels, and seven along the Antarctic Peninsula, the wonderland of ice and inconceivably thriving polar wildlife. During days at sea, our naturalists on the ship's bridge and stern share sightings of whales and seabirds, including many of the world's species of albatross. Maximum time on shore will be available for photography, wildlife experiences and exploring the landscapes of the great Southern Oceans. Our priority is assuring the most in-depth wildlife experience in the Antarctic, an experience made possible by our excellent itinerary and committed expedition staff.

At a Glance

Cost: $14,495 to $22,400 per person, double occupancy, depending on cabin choice. Review all cost details.

Leader and Staff: Ted Cheeseman is our Expedition Leader, along with a large, diverse and incredibly experienced Expedition Staff of 15, including a doctor. The M/V Polar Star officers and hotel staff includes Hotel Manager, Assistant Hotel Manager, Bartender, Head Chef and Sous-chefs, and the hardworking crew.

Size: 94 participants, not including our leader and staff. We keep our expeditions to fewer than 100 passengers so that everyone can go ashore at the same time, without taking time-limited shifts.

Days: 29

Conditions: A non-smoking expedition for people who are very interested in wildlife and spending the maximum of time in the field.

Update: This itinerary updated in June 2009. View the plain text version, great for printing!

Synopsis:

December 28 - 29 Fly to Ushuaia, Argentina. Overnight on the 29th in Ushuaia
December 30 Morning in Tierra del Fuego National Park. Embark on the Polar Star from Ushuaia.
December 31 Cruise northeast to the Falkland Islands with albatross at our stern.
January 1 - 3 Three days in the Falklands (Malvinas) at private reserves on four islands, including Steeple Jason.
January 4 - 5 Cruise the South Scotia Sea to South Georgia across the rich waters of the Polar Front.
January 6 - 11 Explore South Georgia for six days in an unforgettable wildlife extravaganza.
January 12 - 14 Cruise the South Atlantic to Antarctica via the South Orkneys.
January 15 - 21 Seven days along the Antarctic Peninsula, the richest part of this unique continent.
January 22 - 23 Cruise the Drake Passage and up the Beagle Channel to Ushuaia.
January 24 - 25 Fly to Buenos Aires on January 24 to connect with evening flight and arrive home January 25.

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Adelie Penguins Take a Plunge at Shingle Cove, Antarctic Peninsula
Adelie Penguins Take the Plunge at Single Cove, Antarctic Peninsula

In a Nutshell

Use this information to compare our expedition to others. We are sure we will come out on top! Read why our expeditions stand out from the others.

NOTE: Antarctic conditions change very rapidly and we will make every possible effort to accomplish our schedule, however local weather can't be predicted or controlled and we must be flexible. Don't be fooled, no tour operator can guarantee landings.

  • Expedition length - 29 days
  • Time aboard the Polar Star - 26 days
  • Number of participants - 94
  • Number of leaders and staff - 15
  • Ship's Doctor - we bring our own!
  • Our ship - we charter the entire Polar Star; an ice-breaker with reinforced hull, 268 feet long, that can go 13.5 knots
  • Number of zodiacs and zodiac drivers - 10
  • Planned landing days
    • Falkland Islands - 3 days
    • South Georgia Islands - 6 days
    • South Orkney Islands - 1 day
    • Antarctic Peninsula - 7 days
  • Planned Falkland sites
    • New Island*
    • West Point Island
    • Carcass Island
    • Steeple Jason Island*
  • Planned South Georgia Islands sites
    • Gold Harbour
    • Fortuna Bay
    • Hercules Bay
    • Stromness
    • Salisbury Plain*
    • St. Andrew's Bay*
    • Cooper Bay*
    • Prion Island*
    • Grytviken
    • Right Whale Bay
    • Drygalski fjord cruising
  • Planned South Orkney Islands sites
    • Shingle Cove
  • Planned Antarctic Peninsula sites
    • Paulet Island*
    • Paradise Bay
    • Almirante Brown
    • Cierva Cove
    • Neko Harbor zodiac cruising
    • Petermann Island in the Lemaire Channel*
    • Lemaire Channel cruising
    • Port Lockroy
    • Cuverville Island
    • Deception Island (Bailey Head)*
    • Whaler's Bay
    • Devil's Island
    • Port Lockroy
    • Livingston Island (Hannah Point)*

* Our favorite "must see" places on earth!

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Detailed Itinerary

NOTE: Due to the expeditionary nature of our voyage, specific stops cannot be guaranteed. Accompanied by our naturalists, we will land often and stay as long as possible, abiding by the Guidelines for Responsible Ecotourism from IAATO.

December 28 - 29, Monday - Tuesday International Flights to Ushuaia, Argentina
Depart by December 28 to arrive in Buenos Aires by mid-morning on December 29 at the latest to connect with the afternoon flight from the domestic airport, Aeroparque Airport (AEP) to Ushuaia. Three to four hours are necessary between flights to have time to transfer with your baggage from the international airport (EZE) to the domestic airport (AEP). Both morning and afternoon flights are available to Ushuaia from AEP. There is also a morning flight from EZE. A group fare may be possible round trip from Buenos Aires to Ushuaia on Aerolineas Argentinas/Austral Air, departing Buenos Aires December 29 or earlier, return from Ushuaia January 24 or later. Also, LAN offers flights to Ushuaia via Santiago, Chile.

Upon arrival in Ushuaia you will be met by our transfer agency, Rumbo Sur, for the transfer to Hotel Albatros, an excellent hotel located near the waterfront. Ushuaia, the world's southernmost port town, has grown from 8,000 to more than 60,000 inhabitants in the last twenty-five years. Although becoming the largest town in Tierra del Fuego so fast has resulted in some growing pains, it is a charming town, especially on a sunny day. Dinner is on your own on December 29.
Lodging: Hotel Albatross

December 30, Wednesday Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego National Park, and embarkation
On this day you will enjoy exploring the "end of the world" while your luggage is sent ahead to the Polar Star. Hope for blue skies, as we explore Tierra del Fuego National Park in the Southern Beech forest (picnic lunch included). Search for Andean Condor and enjoy the view from an overlook. The walk along the shores is also fascinating and includes the possibility of seeing Peale's Dolphins in the channels. Land birds include three species of caracara, an incredible diversity of geese, various thrushes, and other Tierra del Fuegan passerines. On our previous trips we have sometimes spotted Magellanic Woodpecker and Andean Condor. Back in Ushuaia, stop at the small yet excellent natural and cultural history museum near the waterfront.

By 4:00 p.m. board the MV Polar Star, which will be waiting at the dock. We'll find our cabins and get ready for embarkation in the early evening. The Polar Star will pull anchor and head east down the Beagle Channel. As Ushuaia fades in the distance, we will find ourselves cruising largely uninhabited scenic shores. It's hard to believe that all along these shores of the Beagle Channel are hollows where the Hshgans (Tierra del Fuegans) once lived and built their huts. The beautiful evergreen Nothophagus trees (Southern Beech), strongly wind pruned, fill every protected valley between the gently rolling hills with mountains behind. Look for birds such as Chilean Skua, South American Tern, King Cormorant (Blue-eyed Shag), Kelp and Dolphin gulls, and Black-browed Albatross. Our staff on board will spot and identify these species. Enjoy our first dinner together aboard ship, a very special occasion indeed. Dusk will linger late enticing us to stay up watching for seabirds and the spectacular scenery along the channel on our way out to sea. After sunset, phytoplankton phosphorescing on the water and a brilliant, starry sky may be the rewards.

Black-browed Albatross on Falkland Islands
Black-browed Albatross Landing at Steeple Jason, Falkland Islands

December 31, Thursday Sailing to the Falkland Islands
Familiarization on all aspects of ship life and preparations for what to expect in the Falklands (Malvinas) will keep us busy, but we'll find time for viewing wildlife from the bridge or stern. Wandering and Black-browed albatross should be following us as we head east and there's also a chance of spotting a Royal Albatross in these waters. Photographers on the stern will have a field day following birds on the wing in their viewfinders. We should see about 10 species of birds today, including Thin-billed Prion, Wilson's Storm-Petrel, Giant Petrel, Sooty Shearwaters and possibly even Kerguelen Petrel. Most seabirds we will see are in the tubenose family, having tube-like structures on the bill leading to the nostrils. The weather could be quite balmy, about 15°C, between 50-60°F, if the skies are blue. For our first evening at sea, enjoy a delightful New Year's Eve celebration, as we begin 2010, a memorable holiday gathering en route to the Falklands (Malvinas).

January 1 - 3, Friday to Sunday Visiting the Falkland Islands
The Falkland Islands, approximately 300 miles east of South America and 700 miles north of Antarctica, have a temperate, but sometimes foggy climate. At this time of year, we hope to enjoy some of their rare Austral summer sunshine. Out of the 300 or more islands in the Falklands (Malvinas), we plan to land on four of the best for wildlife viewing and photography. New Island, West Point Island, Carcass Island, and Steeple Jason Island will highlight three species of penguins: Rockhoppers, Magellanics, and Gentoos. We may walk inland to seek out the Magellanics as well as land birds of the Falklands (Malvinas), species that are not to be found on South Georgia. We must pay close attention to staying out of the areas that contain fragile prion burrows and Southern Giant Petrels nests (especially abundant at New Island and Steeple Jason).

We will also be greeted by our hosts: Tony Chater and Ian Strange on New Island, the Napier family on Westpoint Island, and Rob McGill on Carcass Island. All of these islands are privately owned and open to ecotourism on a very limited basis. The owners of these islands are keenly working to protect the resident wildlife. Both of the owners on New Island, Ian Strange and Tony Chater, are artists and have designed many of the Falkland postal stamps, real collector's items. Ian Strange is author of an excellent natural history guide to the Falklands (Malvinas) and founder of the New Island Conservation Trust, an excellent organization that funds research on New Island by students mainly from the Falklands (Malvinas) and Argentina.

New Years Day will be spent on New Island where we should see most of the birds of the Falklands (Malvinas), including the fascinating flightless Steamer Ducks, Ruddy-headed Goose, caracaras, shorebirds, and passerines such as Tussock-bird, Dark-faced Ground Tyrant, Long-tailed Meadowlark, and Black-throated Finch. We will have amazing views of Black-browed Albatross courting atop their conical mud nests where they nest along the cliffs. South American Fur Seal may be seen, although their numbers have been declining rapidly. Other highlights include both Peale's and Commerson's dolphins that occasionally bow ride with the ship or even alongside the Zodiacs going from ship to shore and back.

Two landings are planned for Saturday: Westpoint Island in the morning and Carcass Island in the afternoon. Carcass has the best species diversity because it has not had the problem with rats that other islands have. We hope to follow on Sunday with a landing at Steeple Jason, the outermost northwest island, which is now a reserve owned by the New York Zoological Society. The colony of albatross here is mind-boggling. More Black-browed Albatross nest here than anywhere else on earth! All the other Falkland specialties are found here as well. Landings are always subject to weather conditions, so hope for the calm weather characteristic of this season.

King Penguins at Salisbury Plains, South Georgia Island
King Penguins at Salisbury Plains,
South Georgia Island

January 4 - 5, Monday - Tuesday Sailing to South Georgia
By Monday morning we will be far from the Falklands (Malvinas), heading southeast through the Scotia Sea en route to South Georgia. The richness of these waters is evident in the marine mammal life, especially the fur seals on fishing forays. There is a chance of sighting whales, such as Fins and Minkies. Fin Whales are very difficult to approach as they are the fastest of the rorqual whales and can quickly leave us behind. The birds circling our stern will be outstanding, especially the large albatrosses. We have counted in these waters six species of albatross: Grey-headed, Light-mantled Sooty, Wandering, Northern Royal, Southern Royal, and of course, Black-browed; eight species of petrels: Cape, Soft-plumaged, White-headed, Atlantic, Blue, White-chinned, and Southern and Northern giant petrels; three species of storm-petrels: Gray-backed, Black-bellied and Wilson's; plus Common Diving-Petrel, Greater and Sooty shearwaters, Southern Fulmar and Antarctic Prion by the thousands.

During this time at sea, crossing about 800 nautical miles from the Falklands (Malvinas), we will have lectures on wildlife, photography, ecology, geology, and the history of the Scotia Sea and South Georgia. The prevailing current will be in our direction and sailing should be smooth. In these waters we cross the Polar Front, also called the Antarctic Convergence, and officially enter Antarctic waters. Two bodies of water meet here as the salty, cold Antarctic water mixes with warmer, fresher water from the north. The front is marked by a rapid decline in water temperature, plummeting from about 6-8°C down to 2°C in a period of about eight hours of cruising. With this change the bird population begins to include more Cape Petrels, Southern Fulmars, and even Snow Petrel, as we come around the northeast end of South Georgia. There may even be a Fairy Prion if you have an eye for searching through the large prion flocks circling the ship.

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Elephant Seals, South Georgia Island
Watching Elephant Seals,
South Georgia Island

January 6 - 11, Wednesday to Monday Visiting South Georgia Island
Arrival time at South Georgia will depend on weather conditions and our travel speed. One of the most remote islands in the world, South Georgia provides a magnificent highlight of our trip, as we spend six days in this wild landscape of penguins and seals. The mountainous, rugged interior is a geologic continuation of the Andes Chain and is carved by more than 150 glaciers into spectacular fjords. Tall peaks and hanging glaciers rise behind beautiful beaches, rocky cliffs, and a ring of smaller islands.

During our time in South Georgia, we will explore the eastern coastline where its many incredible landing sites are teaming with wildlife. One of the most abundant species, and certainly the easiest penguins to see and photograph, are the King Penguins, which nest on the uplifted beach terraces at sites such as Gold Harbour and Fortuna Bay. Viewed from the ship, they look like tightly packed white dots flowing from the hills like glaciers. Their colonies are best described as "penguin landscapes." At Salisbury Plain, in the Bay of Isles, an estimated 250,000 King Penguins nest. The picturesque St. Andrew's Bay is also high on our list of possible landings. High peaks tower over the bay adding a perfect backdrop to the estimated 300,000 King Penguins here, the largest colony on South Georgia. We will also visit Gentoo Penguins in many small colonies along the northeast coastline. It will be the height of their breeding activities so we'll have the opportunity to see them nesting and frequenting the beaches. Cooper Bay is the best place to get close to the marvelous Macaroni Penguins which typically nest in inaccessible areas down fairly steep cliffs. Macaronis, the more southerly equivalent of Rockhoppers, used to be the most numerous of all the penguins on South Georgia but are now declining in numbers. Penguins of several species may also be see porpoising alongside the ship as we travel the wild and rugged coastline.

Prion Island, in the Bay of Isles, is the only site where we can see Wandering Albatross nesting. Each pair has a private estate of at least 30 square meters around the nest site for courtship, take-offs and landings, a real contrast to the King Penguin's territory of less than one meter square. Here also are the Southern Giant Petrels quietly incubating as long as you keep your distance. Listen for the eerie calls of Light-mantled Sooty Albatross as they glide by heading to and from their cliff-side nests. The South Georgia Pipit is also found here. This southern-most passerine, or land bird, is endemic to South Georgia. South Georgia Pintails reside in freshwater ponds among the tussock grass. These ducks survive the winter months by scavenging on carcasses. Also on Prion Island, we'll keep our distance from the Antarctic Fur Seals as the males are very territorial. We provide walking sticks for anyone who does not carry a tripod, in case you need to point it at their whiskers, a gentle way to keep an aggressive seal at bay. Female Antarctic Fur Seals control males by snapping at their whiskers.

At Grytviken, the busiest whaling station in the world for the first half of the 20th century, we will absorb a bit of whaling history. The museum has excellent natural history exhibits as well as a small gift shop. South Georgia is now a British Antarctic Territory. The history of Antarctic exploration comes alive as we listen to our historian tell of the adventures of Sir Ernest Shackleton. This famous explorer crossed the rugged backbone of South Georgia from the west to arrive at the Stromness Whaling Station on the east side seeking help for his men stranded on Elephant Island. His crew, hand picked for this 1914-1917 Antarctic expedition, survived on the nutritious, though unappetizing, meat of penguins and seals while waiting for rescue on Elephant Island. Their ship, the Endurance, was crushed by ice in the Weddell Sea. Shackleton and his men had set off in small boats and landed at Elephant Island with hardly any landing room below the steep cliffs along the shore. From there, Shackleton and a handful of men continued in a small boat to South Georgia in one of the greatest sea journeys of all time. They successfully returned to Elephant Island 105 days later to rescue the men. Many young Southern Elephant Seals, hunted for oil in Shackleton's time, now snooze near the Grytviken graveyard where Shackleton and other sailors are buried.

Unfortunately, whales were so thoroughly hunted in the last century that few are to be seen in the South Georgian waters; they are only just beginning their comeback. We have had excellent looks at Fin Whales on the way to South Georgia, so we are hopeful that more will be seen on this expedition. Also on our previous charters two species of beaked whales, Southern Bottlenose Whale, and Cuvier's Beaked Whale were seen, with several sightings of the former. Although less common now, the bones of Blue Whales and other cetaceans were once seen all over the shores of South Georgia and the Antarctic Peninsula.

Adelie Penguins, Antarctic Peninsula
Adelie Penguins,
Antarctic Peninsula

January 12 - 14, Tuesday - Thursday Cruising South via the South Orkney Islands to Antarctica
Our route to Antarctica will be dictated by the pack ice and will be most interesting. We'll use this time at sea for a few lectures and to gather on the bridge in search of Humpback Whales, Southern Fulmars, Antarctic Petrel, Kerguelen Petrel, and with luck Snow Petrel, one of the most beautiful birds of the Southern Ocean. Lectures will include Jim Danzenbaker speaking on skuas and penguins, Doug Cheeseman on whales and seals, Art Ford on geology, Ted Cheeseman on ecology, Edward Rooks on drawing wildlife, and Rod Planck on photographic techniques, plus other interesting lectures by members of our outstanding staff. The Observation Lounge where the lectures are given is also a great place to look for blue icebergs and view spectacular scenery as we travel further south.

Our path will be scattered with icebergs as we approach the South Orkney Islands. If ice conditions permit, we will head for Iceberg Bay on the south coast of Coronation Island. We hope to land in the northwest corner of the bay at Shingle Cove, named for the shingle on the beach at the south shore. The cove is beautifully colored with orange lichens and green grass and moss. Snow Petrels and Cape Petrels should be nesting nearby. From this point on, we must follow a strict code: maintain 15 feet from all wildlife, both birds and mammals, except if you are approached by an animal, and absolutely avoid walking on lichens, moss and the one species of grass.

January 15 - 21, Friday to Thursday Visiting the Antactic Peninsula
At this end of the Earth the vast scale of nature will open our senses. Great respect must be given to the fragile vegetation and to the wildlife colonies. Each participant is must keep good protocol in mind during all landings! We will hope for magnificent sunsets, sculpted blue icebergs, and close penguin and whale encounters, each with the potential of an in-depth experience that we will never forget. We will be cruising historical waters where the Swedish Expedition led by Nordenskjold and the British Expedition led by Shackleton passed in their attempts to reach the continent via the Weddell Sea. Theirs are the most amazing accounts of survival that one could imagine. We hope to visit sites where the penguins and seals that sustained these explorers have taken over, leaving only faint clues of the makeshift homes where the men spent many months before being rescued. If ice conditions permit, we will arrive at the Peninsula via Paulet Island, site of a vast Adelie Penguin colony that supplied sustenance to stranded sailors from the Nordenskjold Expedition, an equally exciting survival story to Shakleton's experience.

Over the last few decades, the Southern Ocean has experienced a significant warming trend, showing clear evidence of global warming. The Antarctic Peninsula has been feeling climate change the most, with an amazing 9°F warming in average winter temperatures over the last 50 years. This has dramatically changed and reduced ice distributions, but we will still be among a world of spectacular icebergs! In the Antarctic summertime on the Peninsula, the coldest temperatures we normally experience during landings are in the 30s °F. It is a bit like winter temperatures at ski resorts, very pleasant with a jacket on, and certainly nothing like wintertime temperatures in Antarctica.

Leopard Seal on Sea Ice
Leopard Seal on Sea Ice

Our first Antarctic Peninsula landing, we hope, will be Paulet Island in the Weddell Sea, where we can count on finding many penguin-covered icebergs. Paulet is a very interesting volcanic island and holds the largest Adelie Penguin colony that we will encounter. On the west side of the Antarctic Peninsula we will enter Bransfield Strait and then head southward into Gerlache Strait. Humpback Whales have made a tremendous comeback in this region. We can expect wonderful whale behavior in these summer feeding grounds. The krill swarms are enormous, sometimes visible on the ship's fathometer (depth sounder). We will find many colonies of Gentoo and Chinstrap penguins, often in mixed colonies, along with their attendant scavengers, Snowy Sheathbills, Brown Skuas, Southern Polar Skuas and Kelp Gulls. While cruising in bays along the Peninsula, we also hope to discover Weddell, Crabeater, and maybe Leopard seals on sea ice.

Paradise Bay is one of the most beautiful areas in Antarctica and is one of our favorite places for Zodiac cruising. Enjoy the view as we cruise the inner part of the bay near the spectacular glaciers and ethereal mountains. Conditions permitting, we may land and walk up for a view of surrounding mountains and glaciers at Almirante Brown, an Argentine station. Here we are completely surrounded with ice-draped peaks soaring out of the water for several thousand feet.

Back onboard the Polar Star, the cruise down to Petermann Island will certainly be an unforgettable experience. Many Crabeater and Weddell seals and a good number of Leopard Seals will be hauled out on ice floes along the way. Whales may even surface between the floes, so keep your cameras ready! Hanging ice cliffs, the fronts of highly fractured tidewater glaciers, decorate most of the shoreline. Petermann Island, at 65°S in the southern part of the Lemaire Channel, has a large colony of Adelies and Gentoos with Blue-eyed Shag colonies on the edges. This will be our southernmost landing site. Taking full advantage of the continuous daylight, we will hope for an evening landing here with beautiful lighting for photography.

Lemaire Channel, Antarctic Peninsula
Lemaire Channel, Antarctic Peninsula

As we make our return north, be on the lookout for cetaceans, including Orcas and even rare beaked whales. We hope to visit the sprawling Gentoo Penguin colony at Port Lockroy, located at the end of the very narrow and beautiful Peltier Channel close to Neumeyer Channel. We'll try a landing at tiny Cuverville Island with Gentoo Penguins on the headlands and/or at adjacent Ronge Island near a Chinstrap Penguin colony. We may find ourselves cruising with Humpbacks as they swim among the icebergs offshore in these waters where whale populations escaped the worst of the whaling period.

Deception Island, in the South Shetlands, is one of the most exciting islands on our voyage. This horseshoe-shaped volcanic island is still active, as the hot thermal pools there demonstrate. We hope to land on both the outside wall and inside the caldera center that opens to the ocean via a narrow gap called Neptune's Bellows. The landing at Bailey Head on the outside has close to half a million Chinstraps nesting at this time of year, but the sea can be a bit tricky with steep swells crashing on an exposed beach. Inside Deception's huge caldera we hope to make a fascinating landing, which may include a short hike up the mountainside to the lookout among the lichen-draped cliffs. On the beach at Whaler's Bay we may find Weddell Seals basking and we'll go ashore if the tide is correct and the weather is favorable. Then prepare for one of the most unique experiences of this voyage - soaking in the island's thermal pools surrounded by clouds of steam alongside the beach at Pendulum Cove. The water temperature can be fairly comfortable, although it can get so hot that it's necessary to mix it with colder water.

Further north in the South Shetland Island group, we hope to land at Hannah Point on Livingston Island, an excellent landing site. Look for about five pairs of Macaroni Penguins nesting in the Chinstrap and Gentoo colonies. The usual rookery scavengers should also be present (skuas, gulls, giant-petrels, and sheathbills) and some may be guarding nests of their own. Kelp Gulls are especially wary and easily frightened from their nest, so we have to give their nests a wide berth. We may also encounter more lichens and even some lush moss as we continue heading north.

January 22 - 23, Friday - Saturday Drake Passage, Cape Horn and Beagle Channel
Named after the 16th century English seaman, Sir Francis Drake, this waterway of about 600 miles separates the southernmost tip of South America from Antarctica. We cross the Polar Front approximately halfway across Drake Passage. Those on watch may sight several species of albatross and petrel following the ship; it is a particularly good area for Royal Albatross and Blue Petrel. We'll also be on the lookout for pods of Sperm Whales and others that have been sighted in the Passage. Almost 500 miles north of the South Shetlands, we will near Cape Horn. Although a landing is not possible at the Cape Horn Lighthouse, mostly due to poor relations between Chile and Argentina, we will get as close as possible for a good view. The offshore area is as rich as seawaters can be and the seabirds are usually present in huge numbers, especially Sooty Shearwaters and Black-browed Albatross, if the sea is calm. Peale's Dolphins may also be seen, sometimes in schools of hundreds. This evening we'll head back down the Beagle Channel and enjoy a final scenic cruise all the way to Ushuaia.

January 24 - 25, Sunday - Monday Disembark in Ushuaia and journey homeward
By early morning on January 24 we will dock at Ushuaia where we will be reluctant to say good-bye to our spirited shipmates! After an early breakfast, disembark the ship at 8am and connect to Buenos Aires or to other points in Argentina or Chile. Our local agent, Rumbo Sur, will collect the luggage in the luggage van to be held until check-in time at the Ushuaia Airport. Fly out of Ushuaia by early afternoon, arriving at the international airport in Buenos Aires for connections to evening flights homeward. If you wish to stay longer in Ushuaia, Buenos Aires or elsewhere Argentina or Chile, we are happy to assist you with the arrangements.

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Staff

Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris Antarctica staff
Cheesemans' Ecology Safari Staff

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We are full
Members of IAATO

Ted Cheeseman (Ecologist, Co-Expedition Leader, Photographer, Lecturer, and Zodiac Driver) will keep us abreast of ecological happenings in the Southern Ocean and enthusiastically take on many important tasks during the journey. He has a master’s degree from Duke University in Conservation Biology and has recently helped found CarbonTree Conservation Fund.

Doug Cheeseman (Zoologist, Co-Expedition Leader, Lecturer, and Zodiac Driver) and Gail Cheeseman (Naturalist and Co-Expedition Leader) have been leading international natural history tours together since 1975. They started their own wildlife tour company in 1980, leading in-depth trips throughout the world. Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris gives priority to wildlife photography and providing maximum time in the field. Doug is fantastically energetic and enjoys lecturing on marine mammals and Antarctic ecology which he has done since 1984 aboard many Antarctic expeditions. This will be his twelfth trip to the Southern Ocean. Gail enjoys handling all the tour logistics, landings and natural history on this expedition.

Hugh Rose (Naturalist, Lecturer, and Zodiac Driver) brings to this expedition over a decade of professional guiding experience in Alaska and Antarctica. He is also a professional photographer and owner of Hugh Rose Photography. He will share his understanding of wildlife, natural history, geology and photography with walks onshore, including photo seminars. Hugh also leads our Alaskan journeys with great praise from all participants.

Art Ford (Geologist and Lecturer) is an Antarctic geologist who led or participated in the first explorations of Antarctica for USGS beginning in 1960 in the Thiel Mountains near the South Pole. He has lectured for us since 1996 when he retired from the US Geological Survey. Art obtained his Ph.D. in geology from University of Washington and taught at San Diego State University. His many publications include the Antarctica chapter in the Encyclopedia Britannica.

Rod Planck (Professional Photographer, Lecturer, and Zodiac Driver) and Marlene Planck both excellent naturalists, spend every moment possible on watch. Rod and Marlene lead popular nature photo workshops and conduct seminars through their photography business, Rod Planck Photography. Rod’s book, Nature’s Places, is a masterpiece of superb photography. On shore, Rod and Marlene always welcome you to join them and ask questions about photography or about the wildlife encountered.

Jim Danzenbaker (Seabird Lecturer and Naturalist) is a very enthusiastic seabirder and gives great slide shows about the birds we encounter. Onshore Jim will lead the way to the best areas and point out interesting wildlife behavior. Join Jim and our other naturalists on the ship's bridge and deck for some exciting whale and seabird experiences at sea. Jim also leads tours to the Neotropics and will again lead our 19-day Panama safari in March 2010 with a trip list of over 400 birds and almost 20 mammals.

Edward Rooks (Professional Wildlife Artist, Lecturer, and Zodiac Driver) excels in helping you uncover your unknown artistic talent during his popular drawing workshops. A naturalist par excellence with an artist's eye, he teaches workshops during days at sea and while onshore. A charismatic native Trinidadian, he will also lead our Trinidad and Tobago safari in 2011.

Dave Shaw (Naturalist, Lecturer, Expedition Log Author, and Zodiac Driver) is a research biologist at the Alaska Bird Observatory and also a freelance writer and photographer. His writing and images have appeared in both magazines and scientific journals. He received a Masters degree in Wildlife Biology from the University of Alaska in 2006 and has worked as a naturalist-guide in Antarctica, Central and South America, Alaska, and the Rocky Mountains. Dave will write the Expedition Log to be distributed to all participants.

Craig Poore (Historian and Lecturer) will lecture on the “heroic age” and other very interesting topics in Antarctic history. He also heads up our conservation fundraiser to help reverse the serious decline of Antarctic albatross populations. A veteran of two of our Antarctica charters, Craig excels at holding everyone's attention during lectures as he delves into the very depths of each subject and keeps us laughing!

Bruce Miller (Photographer, Lecturer, and Zodiac Driver) is a retired computer engineer who now enjoys his family, travels, and freelance photography business, Cooper Mountain Photography, specializing in wildlife, nature, and sports. Bruce will lecture on digital photography during days at sea. He loves working one-on-one, providing photo advice, and organizing onboard slide shows with our participant's photos. In addition to our Southern Ocean expedition, he has traveled with us to five other international destinations, including Africa and the Neotropics.

Tom Murphy (Professional Photographer, Lecturer, and Zodiac Driver) founded Wilderness Photography Expeditions and teaches a well-known and respected photography seminar series primarily in Yellowstone National Park. Tom will teach photo sessions onboard and ashore to help you bring your wildlife photography to new levels of excellence. He is the author of several books including The Light of Spring: The Seasons of Yellowstone. He has also been featured in a PBS Nature series program, Chistmas in Yellowstone.

Patrick Endres (Professional Photographer, Lecturer, and Zodiac Driver) was lured to Alaska in 1981 by pursuits of higher education, an innate love of the natural world, and a youthful zeal for adventure and travel. In the beautiful surroundings of Alaska he was able to combine his love of the visual arts and interest in nature to forge a career in freelance photography. He brings many years of experience to Alaska Photo Graphics, a business through which he presents the creative world of photography. His work has been widely published. He has also led many Alaska photo tours with Hugh Rose who is a longtime member of our Antarctica staff. Patrick said, "I get much more fulfillment in sharing my experiences than taking the photos themselves." He will be a wonderful addition to our Antarctica staff this season.

Dr. Nick Page (Ship's Doctor) Nick is very experienced in emergency medicine and hails from South Africa. He has been our doctor on previous voyages to Antarctica as well as on other ships. Not only is he a fantastic doctor, he also enjoys leading walks onshore and is very energetic assisting with unloading Zodiacs!

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Ship

M/V Polar Star
The M/V Polar Star

M/V Polar Star: The ice-ship MV Polar Star is the flagship of our charter company, Polar Star Expeditions. To make our in-depth itinerary possible, we are chartering the entire ship for this expedition. The MV Polar Star is 86.5 meters (268 feet) in length with a maximum speed of 14 knots. She can carry sufficient fuel and provisions for up to 70 days and can make enough fresh water throughout the voyage that we do not have to restock. She was built in Finland in 1969, and joined the Swedish Maritime Administration's fleet of icebreakers with the name of NJORD. She went through major rebuilding and modernization in 1988, and again in 2000. Karlsen Shipping Norway A/S now owns her. The Polar Star is the first icebreaker to be fully converted for expedition cruising, with an extensive stabilization system. She will carry ten Zodiacs, allowing faster landings and with fewer than 100 passengers, everyone can go ashore at once - more time in the field! more ship details.

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Costs

Costs and Payments: Upon receiving your deposit (see Payment Schedule below), we will send trip materials, including a travel guide with trip essentials, reading list, species lists, and maps. No single cabins are available. All costs below are per person, double occupancy.

Prices just lowered!

Cabin (call for availability). View deck plan. Cabin size
(sq. feet)
Tour Cost1
3rd deck triple cabins with semi-private2 bath 100 $14,495
3rd and 4th deck double cabins with shared bath 100 $15,750
3rd deck double cabins with semi-private2 bath 100 $16,495
3rd and 4th deck double cabins with private bath 115 $17,700
3rd and 4th deck superior double with private bath 140 $18,550
3rd, 4th and 5th deck mini suites with private bath 180 $20,150
5th deck Drake suite with private bath 250 $22,400
1Per person, double occupancy. Double occupancy cabins may be booked on a single basis at 1.9 times this cost. If you are willing to have a roommate, there will be no single supplement charge.
2Semi-private bath cabins share one bathroom between two cabins.
NOTE: We have taken measures and will not initiate any fuel surcharge on this charter if the cost of fuel increases substantially by January 2010.

Fuel Costs: No matter what happens to the price of fuel before or during the voyage, we guarantee we will add NO FUEL SURCHARGE.

Payment Schedule
Deposit - to reserve your space $1000
June 1, 2008 - second payment $2500
February 1, 2009 - third payment $3500
June 1, 2009 - forth payment $3500
September 1, 2009 - final payment remaining balance

Cancellations: Refunds are given depending on the time left before departure according to the following schedule. You can purchase trip cancellation insurance that would refund your trip costs in the event of your cancellation. Please take a moment to learn if this insurance would be in your best interest. We have had good experience with Access America. Please let us know if you would like a brochure.

Refund Schedule
Days until Departure Refund Amount
180 or more $300 withheld
179 - 150 10% of tour cost withheld
149 - 120 40% of tour cost withheld
119 or less no refund possible

Included: All meals beginning with breakfast on December 30 through breakfast on January 24.

Not Included: Airfare, airport departure taxes, and airport transfers in Buenos Aires. Dinner on December 29, as outlined in the itinerary. Personal items, such as laundry, bar charges, wine, liquor, bottled beverages, fax/telephone/email charges, and trip insurance. Tip to the ship's crew. Travel insurance.

Gratuities: Tips to the ship's crew are not included. Our ship's crew works hard to ensure that your expedition goes smoothly and that you are comfortable. We recommend approximately $12 to $15 per passenger per day.

Airfare: Airfare is not included. The cost should be approximately $1600 roundtrip Miami, USA to Ushuaia, Argentina (quoted June 2008, subject to change). A group round-trip fare may be available from Buenos Aires to Ushuaia.

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Other Details

Reservations: Please contact us to assure space availability and to let us answer your questions. Then, fill out our reservation form, and mail it to us with your deposit :

Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris
20800 Kittredge Road
Saratoga, CA 95070
Toll Free: (800) 527-5330
Local: (408) 741-5330
Fax: (408) 741-0358
Email: info@cheesemans.com

Travel Insurance: Emergency Medical Insurance is required for this tour. Read about travel insurance and our recommendations and requirements.

Seasickness: Don't let a fear of seasickness scare you away! Over the years many who have dreamed of experiencing Antarctica with us have stayed home for fear of seasickness. But of all those who have joined, we know of only one passenger who said that seasickness really affected the enjoyment of the trip. Still, that same passenger talked about repeating the trip, because the rest of the experiences more than made up for it.

For all but the most sensitive, motion sickness is only a problem during the four open ocean passages. This is a total of approximately six days and nine nights. The passage from Ushuaia to the Falkland Islands is usually quite smooth, because we remain on the continental shelf and travel with currents for the entire distance. Days and nights when we are landing or cruising between landings are quite calm because we are very close to land. The Polar Star has an excellent stabilizing system, but the Southern Ocean has the potential for the worst seas in the world. They have a horrible reputation, not because they are always rough, (indeed not, on the average day, the seas are actually quite calm!) but because their extremes are large. If we are hit by a storm during a crossing, the experience will be memorable! For this reason, unless you know you are immovable by the heavy seas, bring a good supply of medication. Doug, Gail and Ted Cheeseman are quite susceptible to seasickness, yet they come back year after year. They love the Antarctic, but know to come prepared. Doug depends on a nausea relief medicine, such as Zofran, while Ted currently prefers Scopolamine (Transderm Scop, or "the patch") and sometimes uses the Relief Band. Gail Cheeseman takes a Bonine or similar before going to bed when it's rough or expected to become rough and wears a Relief Band during the day if needed.

Trip Log: After the completion of your voyage, you can look forward to a full color log of the expedition mailed directly to your home. This descriptive and detailed record includes daily sightings, trip accounts, species lists and excellent photography throughout our incredible journey.

Mailing List: If you would like to be on our mailing list or request information, please use our online information request form or send us your name, address, email address and phone number. Please note we will never share your personal information with anybody!

Responsibility: Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris, Saratoga, California, act only as agents and shall not be responsible or become liable for any delay incurred by any person in connection with any means of transportation, nor for the loss, damage, or injury to person or property by reason of any event beyond the control of the agency or default of such agency suppliers. We reserve the right to cancel the tour prior to departure in which case full refund will constitute full settlement to the passenger. No refund will be made for any unused portion of the tour unless arrangements are made at the time of booking. All rates are based on current tariffs, exchange rates and fuel prices and are subject to adjustment in the event of any change therein. By sending your initial deposit, you agree to accept our payment schedule as a contract. If payments are still outstanding two weeks after the due date, your space may be forfeited. Baggage is at the owner's risk.

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