Bhutan
Springtime Passion of Birds and Wildlife
March 12 to April 4, 2011

White-headed Babblers

Join our leader, Hishey Tshering, on an amazing trip over the scenic passes of Bhutan, along roads laden with prayer flags and vivid rhododendrons blooming in the springtime. This shining Buddhist gem is a birder's paradise during the courting season of their many birds. Bhutan's altitudinal variations, from tropical lowlands to mountain peaks, will keep you constantly guessing about the next surprise around the corner! This trip is timed when flowering plants are constantly changing and the birds are courting. Encounter over 200 species of birds and over a dozen intriguing mammals, including the Golden Langur. Arrive in the city of Paro in time to enjoy the colorful Paro Festival, then continue eastward past Mongar before returning west as the blooming season progresses. Travel in a modern bus and enjoy excellent lodges, plus seven nights of mobile camping off the beaten track. Your efficient and fully equipped camp staff will travel by truck to set up your comfortable camp before you arrive at each site. Bhutan has 20 peaks over 23,000 feet, a wonderful place to enjoy stunning Himalayan mountain scenery on a clear day, looking down on forests and picturesque valleys with terraced rice fields, while also seeing spectacular birds and charming mammals. The Buddhist culture in Bhutan is more than a religion, it is integrated into all aspects of daily life in this "land of the peaceful dragon."

At a Glance

Cost: $7,200 per person, double occupancy, not including airfare. Review cost details.

Leader: Hishey Tshering, plus an assistant guide, an experienced driver of an excellent spacious modern bus, and full camp staff.

Size: 8 participants, not including leaders and staff.

Conditions: A non-smoking safari for people who are very interested in wildlife (mammals, birds and reptiles) and spending the maximum time in the field.

Update: This itinerary was updated in April 2010. View the plain text version, great for printing!

Synopsis:
Note: 'La' means pass, 'chu' means river, 'ka' or 'kha' means valley.

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About Bhutan

The Kingdom of Bhutan is the size of Switzerland, nestled between Tibet and India, and is truly one of Earth's most remote countries. Over 60% of the country is still forested, despite many farms dotting the countryside. The Buddhist philosophy of respect for all living things along with a progressive approach to preservation of the environment and the promotion of Bhutan's unique culture and traditions, have maintained a healthy world where wildlife flourishes. Bhutan lies in an area designated as one of the world's top ten biodiversity hotspots. There are over 600 species of birds including some of the most exotic and rare species in the eastern Himalayas. Bhutan is also home to at least 165 species of mammals, including Golden Langur, Leopard, Rhinoceros, and Elephant in the lowlands; Red Panda, Himalayan Black Bear, and Musk Deer in the middle-elevation forests; and Takin grazing on grasses in alpine meadows along mountainsides. The mammals are elusive, but we hope to see the rare and endemic Golden Langur, other langurs, and the Assamese Macaque. Bhutan's flora is no less impressive. More than 600 orchid species (including at least 50 that are endemic), 46 species of rhododendrons (4 endemic), and more than 300 species of medicinal plants, are found within its borders. During March and early April, birds are pairing up and establishing their territories. Then later in the breeding season, by the end of April, they behave more secretive during nesting. The weather is also warming up at this time, although it will still be very cool at the high elevations in the night and early mornings.

Geographical Map of Bhutan

Until recently, Bhutan's remoteness, steep terrain, and tightly controlled tourism ensured that its incredible beauty and fascinating people remained known only to a few. Bhutan was closed to outsiders until 1960, its first roads were built in 1961, and no tourists were officially permitted until 1974. You will encounter red-robed monks and herders with their cows or yaks on the road, as well as vehicles. Bhutan is a developing country yet its unique agrarian Buddhist culture is very much intact. With development flourishing, towns are expanding and new hotels are being built. The Kingdom recently celebrated 100 years of monarchy, which was established in 1907. A general election was held in 2008 as it was the vision of the 4th King to usher in democratic changes in times of peace. At only 51 years old, he abdicated in favor of his son, who is now the 5th King. The capital city of Thimphu is growing very quickly as it attracts the younger generation to settle there where they can make a better living than staying on the family farmland. Other towns, such as Mongar in eastern Bhutan, are also attracting many new residents, where new homes, apartments, and hotels are under construction, always in the wonderful Bhutanese architectural style. Nepalese and Indians work alongside the roads for Indian construction companies, maintaining the winding thoroughfares.

Trongsa Dzong

This adventure will take us easterly, dropping to the southern lowlands in the district of Zhemgang and later in the trip to Phobjikha Valley, adding new species and absorbing the culture. We'll cross the pass above Mongar, in eastern Bhutan, to enjoy wildlife in the beautiful Korila Forest, then return west to Paro, discovering new species of rhododendrons in flower. There will be opportunities to examine traditional Bhutanese arts and crafts, which represent a vital aspect of Bhutan's living heritage. Surrounding you from the moment you land in Paro will be appealing Bhutanese architecture with its traditional shapes, colorful patterns, and an unmatched combination of engineering skill and beauty. Throughout the trip, Hishey will occasionally stop for you to visit a goemba (monastery), Dzongs (the monastery/fortresses that serve as Bhutan's administrative and religious centers), lhakhangs (temples), and chortens (stupas) that are important features of Bhutan's religion and culture.

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Detailed Itinerary

March 12 - 14, Saturday - Monday: Fly to Bangkok
Depart on March 12 or 13, depending on flight schedules, to arrive in Bangkok by the evening of March 14 at the latest. Lose one day crossing the International Dateline. See flight suggestions at end of itinerary. We included one night at the spectacular Novotel Hotel at the Bangkok Airport that was newly built when this airport opened only a few years ago. Consider arriving early to sightsee or simply recover from your travel. We would be happy to arrange extra nights at the Novotel Hotel for you. Meals on your own.
Lodging: Novatel Hotel in Bangkok on March 14

March 15, Tuesday: Fly to Paro to enjoy the afternoon at the Paro Festival
Depart Bangkok in the early morning for Paro, on Druk Air, the national airline of Bhutan. Hishey will purchase your Bhutan visas and tickets for this flight since both must be issued in Bhutan. There is a daily flight departing before 6:30am (as early as 4:30am) which may stop in Kolkata (formerly Calcutta), India, depending on the schedule that day. From Kolkata, it is another hour to Paro so arrival will be between 8:30am and 11am, depending on the departure. It's also fine to arrive earlier in Paro for extra time in Bhutan, which we are happy to arrange for you. Hishey will be at the airport to meet everyone personally or if you arrive earlier, one of his staff will meet you to be your guide during your extra days.

On the drive from the airport to Janka Resort near the Paro River, you might see your first very special Himalayan shore bird, the Ibisbill, although it is quite well camouflaged and is rare so it takes a bit of searching. It can easily be mistaken for a stone along the river until you put your binoculars on it. White Wagtails and two species of redstarts, the Plumbeous and White-capped, also enjoy feeding along the river. Hishey may also locate the elusive Black-tailed Crake and the Common Snipe for you.

Arrive at Janka Resort for a one-night stay. On this tour, the food will be excellent, a combination of Indian, Chinese, and Bhutanese. After a great lunch, enjoy the excitement of the Paro Festival. Bhutan is a country of festivals. The most important are the religious dance festivals, known as Tshechus, which are held in different districts, at specific times during the year. The Tshechus are celebrated for three to five days. These festivals, which are held in honor of Guru Rimpoche, commemorate his great deeds. Dances are performed with deep religious significance, especially in the tantric context. The Tshechus are important religious festivals and it is believed that by attending them, one gains merits and blessings. They are not somber, formal religious affairs, but occasions to get together, renew acquaintances, and make merry. The atsaras (traditional clowns of the Tshechu) add color and merriment to the festival by their bawdy antics. Tshechus attract crowds that sometimes come from the remotest of villages. In a swirl of color and noise, the gods and demons of Buddhist mythology come to life. Masked and sword dances and other rituals are performed in the courtyards and temples of the Dzongs during festivals. The origin of most of the dances can be traced back before the Middle Ages and are only performed once or twice a year. Each dance has its own significance and is performed by monks and villagers. The most popular festivals for tourists are those held in Paro during spring and those at Thimphu and Bumthang in autumn. The colorful ceremonies, religious theater and exorcism ritual are the most striking testimonies to the deep-rooted faith of Bhutan's society.

We'll also explore the beautiful valley of Paro and the ruins of the Drukgyel Dzong. The valley of Paro is mainly Blue Pine forest, which does not have the diversity of bird life found in the many broadleaf habitats to the east, but the woodlands around the Drukgyel Dzong area provide a hint of the great variety that is to come in the next three weeks. Some of the species that can be seen in this area include Black-faced Laughingthrush, Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush, Brown Parrotbill, Chestnut-tailed Minla, Common Kestrel, Kalij Pheasant, White-collared Blackbird and Grey-backed Shrike. Elevation at Paro is 7,600 feet.
Lodging: Janka Resort in Paro

Paro Festival

March 16, Wednesday: Paro Festival then drive along the river valley to Thimphu
We'll have a full morning watching the festivities and visiting the Paro Dzong. After an excellent hot lunch, drive from Paro to Thimphu following the river valley between the two towns through Blue Pine and some alpine scrub. Sometimes Grey Langurs are active along the rock cliffs beside the road, but not as likely to be active in the afternoon. The drive is about two hours, allowing time for stops and our driver will try to pull over on the road edge whenever you are inspired to take photos, as the scenery, including bridges, chortens, and farmland, is very impressive. In this season, the flowers are at their best and although clear skies are not always the norm, we have had many beautiful days in March and early April. Arrive in Bhutan's capital, Thimphu, for dinner and overnight at the new Hotel Yeedzin. Elevation of Thimphu is at 7,700 feet.
Lodging: Hotel Yeedzin in Thimphu for two nights

March 17, Thursday: Jigme Dorji National Park then to Thimphu for the afternoon
Like Paro, the Thimphu valley is relatively dry and is surrounded by Blue Pine forests. To the north of the city, however, through the religious valley of Tango and Cheri, is Jigme Dorji National Park, where the vegetation is mainly evergreen oak forest with bamboo. Jigme Dorji NP is huge, but the concept of national park in Bhutan reflects sustainable use of the park for people to flourish, as well as the fauna and flora. People own private land within the national park and are assisted by the Department of Agriculture to maintain small herds and allow the forests and wildlife to flourish. With an early departure (it's light out by 5am), we may encounter Assamese Macaques, Common Grey Langurs, and even Goral (a small brown, native goat), as well as many birds, such as the Crested Kingfisher, Rufous-bellied Woodpecker, Spotted Nutcracker, and Oriental and Large Hawk cuckoos. If time permits, the return trip will include a stop to look for the rare Yellow-rumped Honeyguide feeding on the honeycomb of rock-bee hives that hang from a cliff. If not found here, there will be several other opportunities to stop at one of the huge rock-bee hives along the way. Although this honeyguide is globally threatened, it is relatively easy to find in Bhutan, due to many cliffs along the roads with rock-bee honeycombs. Also perhaps stop at the monastery in this valley before returning to Thimphu for lunch. Later in the afternoon take time in Thimphu to buy stamps, post cards, and maps at the post office and visit a weaving museum and other very interesting places, including a close-up view of the national mammal, the Takin, protected in an area on the edge of town.
Lodging: Hotel Yeedzin in Thimphu

Eurasian Jay

March 18, Friday: Over Dochu La to Wangdi Phodrang and Punakha Dzong
Depart early for some delightful birding at Dochu La. There will also be more time later in the trip with an overnight near here on the return to Paro. Watch for high elevation, mixed evergreen, and cool broadleaf forest birds. Only these colorful birds, such as Fire-tailed Myzornis, Red-tailed Minla, Mrs. Gould's Sunbird, and Green-tailed Sunbird, can match the stunning blossoms of rhododendrons and magnolias that dot the entire hillside. At the 10,000-foot summit of Dochu La, one of the Queens of Bhutan built an auspicious number of chortens, a total of 108, to commemorate the victory of the 4th King when insurgents from Assam invaded Bhutan in 2002. The wailing call of the Hill Partridge can be heard everywhere, although the bird is very challenging to see.

The temperate broadleaved forest of rhododendrons and magnolias will soon give way to a semi-tropical zone, where banana and orange trees are cultivated in abundance. Look for Eurasian Treecreeper, Golden Bush-Robin, niltava species, Eurasian Jay, Mountain Hawk Eagle, Plain-backed Thrush, Great Barbet, and perhaps even the rare Ward's Trogon. The appearance of low elevation species, such as Red-vented Bulbul and Common Myna, is a reminder of the astonishing diversity of Bhutan within such short distances. The vegetation changes mainly to Chirpine, a lower elevation conifer.

By midday, drive to Punakha to visit the majestic Punakha Dzong. Before the capital moved from Punakha to Thimphu, Punakha Dzong was the seat for the Kings and Lamas. It was strategically built in 1637 at the confluence of the Pho Chuu and Mo Chuu, meaning male and female rivers. In the late afternoon, drive south down the mighty Puna Tsang Chu, for the first attempt to look for the extremely rare White-bellied Heron. Hishey has been responsible for initiating the survey of this rare bird through a donation made by a former client of his in 2002. Before 2002, the last time a heron nest had been seen was in 1929. Since Hishey's survey began, nests have been found every year. Though very rare elsewhere, the heron has been regularly located along both the Puna Tsang Chu and Pho Chu, also spelled Po Chu or Pho Chuu. (Note: The Bhutanese languages, Dzongkha, and other Bhutanese languages, are all based on oral tradition. Therefore you will frequently find more than one way to spell names, such as Zhemgang or Shemgang.) Another exciting rare bird we may encounter while looking for the White-bellied Heron is the Pallas's Fish Eagle.
Lodging: Hotel Dragon's Nest in Wangdi Phodrang

March 19, Saturday: Wangdi Phodrang to Trongsa over Pele La
We will want to leave very early for the hour's drive up to Pele La at 11,200 feet. Monal Pheasants, Satyr Tragopan, and the Great Parrotbill are distinct possibilities here. From the Pele La in sub-alpine conifers and bamboo we start down into central Bhutan. The drive is very scenic and the recent Bhutanese film, "Travelers and Magicians," was shot along this road. We'll have our first glimpse of the Trongsa Dzong as we look out across the breathtaking depths of the Mangde Chhu Gorge. Built atop the crest of a narrow ridge, it is the most spectacularly sited Dzong in all of Bhutan. It is perched so far above the river that the clouds frequently float below it. Overlooking the town of Trongsa (or Tongsa), the Yangkhil Resort is in a superb location and built in the Bhutanese architecture that is so photogenic. It is surrounded by beautiful grounds laid out with a prayer wheel powered by water, plus others powered by hand. We'll hope for clear skies to get spectacular photography of the Dzong and surrounding valleys viewable from the lodge. Laundry can be left to pick up when we return in three days for another overnight at the Yangkhil Resort. Elevation at Trongsa is 7,000 feet.
Lodging: Yangkhil Resort near Trongsa

Golden Langur

March 20 - 21, Sunday - Monday: Birding and Golden Langurs in the Zhemgang lowlands
From Trongsa, we drive on a road with beautiful waterfalls and ferns at most every switchback until we reach the bottom of the valley and then again ascend to an elevation of about 6,500 feet at Wangdigang. Drive through a big agricultural area, then more diverse forest habitats, including huge moss-covered trees perfect for the incomparable Beautiful Nuthatch. We will spend more time here on our return back to Trongsa with an early arrival when the birds are most active. The open farmland is impressive with rice terraces down the steep hillsides. Crested Bunting can be seen perched on shrubs along the road, maintaining their territories. Have dinner by 7pm, allowing plenty of time for a good sleep to be ready by 5am for more great wildlife action before breakfast.

During the three days in the Zhemgang District along the Zhemgang-Tingtibi Road, look for Fire-tailed Myzornis, Cutia, Sultan Tit, Yellow-cheeked Tit, several species of fulvettas and laughingthrushes, Rufous-breasted Bush-Robin, Orange-flanked Bush-Robin, Golden Babbler, Rusty-fronted Barwing, Gray Peacock Pheasant, Red-headed Trogon, several species of cuckoos, Blue-bearded Bee-eater, Pintailed Green Pigeon, White-browed and Speckled piculet, Scarlet Finch, and more. There is also a good chance of seeing Rufous-necked Hornbill and Great Hornbill. Besides birds, the endemic Golden Langur is also common here, so we will spend time with these special primates. In fact, our campsite is in the middle of this rare primate's range. We also should encounter the Black Giant Squirrel and the Yellow-necked Marten, two other very special mammals. Elevation at camp: 2,000 feet, but we will be exploring mixed broadleaved evergreen forests at elevations between 2,000 to 8,000 feet.
Camping: the Tingtibi camp below the town of Zhemgang for two nights

March 22, Tuesday: More great birds and mammals from Zhemgang back to Trongsa
After an early departure from camp, arrive by dawn at perhaps the best place in the broadleaved evergreen forests to see the Beautiful Nuthatch. Enjoy an amazing day of superb scenery and wildlife, as we retrace the road back north to the highlands of Trongsa for overnight at the Yangkhil Resort. Elevation at Trongsa is 7,000 feet.
Lodging: Yangkhil Resort near Trongsa

March 23, Wednesday: Over scenic passes to Ura Valley, great for Blood Pheasants
Above Trongsa, the road climbs through many switchbacks and then passes through a misty forest of Silver Fir and bamboo on the way to Yotong La (11,600 feet). The drive is breathtaking as you travel through rhododendron and magnolia forest with magnificent waterfalls. White-browed Fulvettas, Grey-crested Tits, Coal Tits, and gangs (or as Hishey calls them, "posses") of White-throated Laughingthrush are active here at this season. The elusive Fulvous Parrotbill is also a possibility as is the beautiful Gold-naped Finch. Once we cross the Yotong La Pass, the vegetation is mainly spruce and Silver Fir forest with plenty of bamboo undergrowth. As we descend further, it changes to Blue Pine forest where the birdlife is not as diverse, but Bumthang is the only district in Bhutan where we will find the Black-billed Magpie. At this time, we'll bypass the small town near the Jakar Dzong, but on our return in six days, we shall spend time exploring the wonderful temple and monastery beside the town of Chankhar in Bumthang. It is actually the largest town in the Bumthang district. Later in the afternoon, drive over two more passes further east to the beautiful alpine valley of Ura. Ura is a large, compact, and quite wealthy agricultural village since the advent of potato farming. It has an attractive temple and cobblestone "streets." Beautiful Rosefinch, White-browed Rosefinch, Red-billed Chough, Spotted Nutcracker, Russet Sparrows, Black-billed Magpie, and Rufous-breasted Accentor are some of the birds that can be seen foraging in the open fields with the Himalayan Griffon soaring above. Later in the afternoon as we approach our campsite, the timing will be perfect to encounter Blood Pheasants that are active in both the early morning and late afternoon. Elevation at Ura is 10,000 feet and at our camp is about 11, 000 feet. Vegetation is sub-alpine and open habitats.
Camping: Gayzamchu camp along the river

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March 24, Thursday:Over Thrumsing La to Sengor to bird in superb habitat for Satyr Tragopan
We bird early in the morning before the flow of traffic begins with the hope of catching some of the most beautiful pheasants of the Himalayas feeding along the road. Blood Pheasants feed in the open by the roadside at dawn. If lucky, we should also see Monal Pheasant, as well as the Satyr Tragopan. Flocks of Snow Pigeons have also been frequently sighted flying across the valley or foraging in the farmlands. A big sign amid the prayer flags at the top of Thrumsing La at 12,435 feet (3,790 meters), marks the high altitude boundary of Thrumshing National Park. With rhododendrons blooming, we shall check for the gorgeous Fire-tailed Sunbird and other forest birds, such as Rufous-gorgeted and Ultramarine flycatchers, Rufous-bellied Niltava, Red-headed Bullfinch, Collared and White-winged grosbeaks, Rusty-flanked and Eurasian treecreepers and a variety of tit species. We'll hope for clear skies, but we'll have another chance for excellent light on our return in four days. From the pass, it is another hour down to the alpine village of Sengor. We shall camp a little further down from the village, which is the prime Satyr Tragopan habitat. Besides the Tragopan, other intriguing species reported in this area include the Bar-winged Wren Babbler and the Spotted Laughingthrush. Elevation at Sengor is 9,000 feet to 10,000 at our camp. Vegetation is mainly cool broadleaf and fir forest.
Camping: near the village of Sengor

March 25, Friday: Enjoy wildlife action and incredible birding on the way to Mongar
The stretch of road from the Thrumsing La Pass at 12,435 feet down to 2,000 feet is considered to offer the best birding in Asia. Leave the cool broadleaf forest above for the return later this week and explore the wonderfully rich, subtropical, warm broadleaved forest along the lower section of this road (8,000 to 2,000 feet). After lunch near the small village of Yongkhola, in the middle of the best warm broadleaved habitat, stop along the way in good habitats for Capped Langur and many birds. Drive the short distance to the picturesque town of Mongar in eastern Bhutan to stay at the new Wangchuck Hotel. A little further to the east is the town of Trashigang. This used to be the biggest town in Eastern Bhutan but was recently overtaken by Mongar with its increasing population.
Lodging: Hotel Wangchuck in Mongar

Female Ward's Trogon

March 26, Saturday Over Kori La to a wonderful forest and then return to Mongar
A few miles from the hotel in Mongar is Kori La or the Korila Pass at 7,540 feet (2,298 meters), where the vegetation is mixed broadleaved evergreen forests. Spend the day in this area to encounter families of Capped Langurs, plus other mammals, as well as the beautiful Long-tailed Broadbill that should be displaying and pairing up with a mate. Also look for Siberian Stonechat, Rufous-bellied Niltava, Ward's and Red-headed trogons, Gold-naped Finch, and Maroon-backed Accentor. Enjoy a hot lunch catered by our camp staff and served in the remote Korila Forest near the Guru Lhathang Monastery. Search for wildlife until time to head back to our hotel in Mongar for a good rest. Vegetation is a diversity of broad-leafed evergreen forest and open habitat.
Lodging: Hotel Wangchuck in Mongar

March 27 - 28, Tuesday - Wednesday: Birding in the broadleaf forests of Thrumshing National Park
Head west from Mongar early to meet up later in the day with our camp staff at a great location to camp for two nights in the best lowland areas of Thrumshing National Park for amazing birds between 2,000 and 8,000 feet. The lowland boundary of this ecosystem is at the Kuru Chu Bridge, close to Yongkhola, and the highland boundary is at Thrumsing La at well over 12,000 feet. As already mentioned, the concept of a national park in Bhutan is to sustain both the people living there and the diversity of habitats and wildlife. The main road traverses the park and is used for transportation of goods as well as for the agrarian society that has traditionally lived in this huge ecosystem. The bird specialties here are Ward's and Red-headed trogon, several species of scimitar babblers, parrotbills, Rufous-necked Hornbill, an assortment of warblers, Fire-tailed Myzornis, Hill Partidge, Satyr Tragopan, Speckled Wood Pigeon, Sultan and Yellow-cheeked tits, varieties of bulbuls, three species of tesias (Chestnut-headed, Slaty-bellied and Grey-bellied), flycatchers, and laughingthrushes.
Camping: Yongkhola camp for two nights

March 29 - 30, Monday - Tuesday Birding and culture in the Bumthang District
Drive back toward Bumthang with some fascinating stops for birds, mammals, and spectacular rhododendron blooms. This will take us most of the day, but the following day we will stay in the valley of Bumthang, which is also considered the cultural heartland of Bhutan and hence has many temples. The valley is very scenic and has many sacred sites and good places for walking. Guru Rimpoche (also known as Padmasambava) introduced Buddhism to Tibet and the Himalayas, including Bhutan. He is often thought of as the second Buddha and his image may appear more often in Bhutanese art than even that of the Buddha himself. All of the places where he is said to have visited and to have worked wonders on behalf of the Buddhist faith are regarded as sacred. During the time we are in Bumthang, we'll visit one of the most important of these, the temple complex called Kurjey Lhakhang. Guru Rimpoche was called to make his first visit to Bhutan to help the king of Bumthang, whose soul had been taken by a local deity. After meditating in a cave to gather his strength, the Guru outwitted and overpowered the deity, who restored the king's soul and became a defender of the Buddhist faith. A body (kur) imprint (jey) was left on the rock where the Guru had meditated and a temple was built to enclose the entrance to the cave in 1652. Two other temples were added during the 20th century. Three chortens in the courtyard mark the cremation sites of Bhutan's first three Kings. We may have time to visit another important temple, Tamshing Lhakhang. Founded by Pema Lingpa, the great treasure reveler, Tamshing has religious paintings, which may be the oldest paintings in Bhutan.
Lodging: Gongkhar Guesthouse in Bumthang

March 31, Thursday: Great scenery over mountain passes and south to Phobjikha
Backtrack south then west over the beautiful passes overlooking the vast Black Mountains to the south and along the deep river gorges past Trongsa (Tongsa), where we take a different road south to Phobjikha (Phobji Ka). At 10,000 feet, Phobjikha is a glacial valley and is the biggest wetland in Bhutan. It is the winter home of about 350 Black-necked Cranes that arrive in late October and start migrating back to Tibet by early March. Though unlikely, it is possible that we may see a few cranes still lingering. Because of the presence of the cranes, Phobjikha is one of the most important wildlife preserves in the Kingdom. The drive down from the pass into the valley is full of great surprises, such as Spotted Laughingthrushes and brilliant sunbirds. The sunbirds may be found feeding on insects in the rhododendron blossoms among unique larches endemic to the Himalayas. You'll enjoy the books on flowering plants that Hishey will carry in the vehicle. Spend time looking for three species of parrotbills (Black-throated, Brown and Great), Brown and Red-headed bullfinch, Rufous-bellied Woodpecker, Black-eared Shrike-babbler, Fired-tailed Myzornis, and Kalij and Monal pheasants. Also wonderful to see is the beautiful Hotel Dewachen, a photographic delight in itself!
Lodging: Lodging: Hotel Dewachen in the Phobji Valley

April 1, Friday: Travel along Dang Chu toward Docu La
Returning west will offer a different view of Pela La at 11,400 feet. Walk along the old road with little traffic to find high altitude birds, such as rosefinches, Great Parrotbill, and grosbeaks. We also hope to encounter mammals, the Ghoral and Serow, two wild herbivores that do well in these habitats around Pela La. By late afternoon, arrive at the campsite approximately 8 km below the top of Dochu La beside the newly opened Royal Botanical Gardens. Spend the night in this lovely location and hope to see the Himalayas with clear skies in the morning.
Camping: Royal Botanical Gardens campsite

Rhododendrons

April 2, Saturday: Morning at Docu La and return to Paro via Thimphu
There is a lovely trail to walk in the forest here before breakfast. Photograph and bird around the Docu La (Dochula) area this morning, then drive to Thimphu for lunch. After lunch, return to Paro and get ready for a big day tomorrow to Chelila Pass.
Lodging: Janka Resort in Paro for two nights

April 3, Sunday: Depart very early to Chelila Pass and return to Paro for a special farewell
Depart early at 4 am for the 90-minute trip to the Chelila Pass, perhaps spotting a Grey Nightjar or even a Leopard Cat, a small nocturnal cat that is frequently sighted before dawn on this road. The road winds upward through the Blue Pine as it slowly changes to higher elevation conifers such as spruce, hemlock, fir, and juniper. At the summit, the vegetation is mainly dwarf rhododendrons and open alpine meadows. With the pass located at close to 13,000 feet, this is the highest road in Bhutan. If skies are clear, you'll have a fantastic view of sacred Mt. Jhomolhari and adjacent Mt. Jichu Drake, both over 20,000 feet. This pass offers a breathtaking view of the Haa and Paro valleys, though it is often cloudy in the spring. The quest for the day will be the incredibly majestic Monal Pheasant. Other specialties include Blood Pheasants, Spotted Laughingthrushes, Himalayan Griffon, White-browed Rosefinch, and White-throated Redstarts. Collared Grosbeaks may respond to our recorded calls. This is the only place on the trip where we are above tree line amidst alpine scrub and dwarf rhododendrons (Rhododendron cinnabarinum, R. lanatum, and others). After a breakfast of hot rice porridge and other goodies catered by Hishey's staff, descend to lower elevations, where resident birds include several species of tits, Red Crossbills, the very shy Kalij Pheasant, and Yellow-billed Blue Magpies. Later this evening gather for a very special dinner and a farewell celebration.
Lodging: Janka Resort in Paro

April 4, Monday: Fly to Bangkok for connections homeward or overnight
Our group will take the morning flight from Paro to Bangkok that was arranged by Hishey. See flight information. Extra nights at the Novotel near the Bangkok Airport can be arranged and are approximately $175. Gain back one day crossing the International Dateline and arrive home on April 4 or 5, depending on departure time from Bangkok.

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Costs

Payments and Cancellations: Upon receiving your deposit, we will send complete trip materials. Deposits are refundable before the final payment date, except for $150. The $150 may go toward another tour if a reservation is made within six months of the departure date of this trip. There are no refunds given after the final payment. Insurance applications are available for trip cancellation insurance.

Included:

• All specified activities, leaders, transport, park entry fees, and accommodations.
• Tips to lodge personnel.
• Meals from lunch on March 14 through breakfast on April 4, drinks while in our private mobile camps, and drinking water throughout.
• Airport transfers, unless making a separate transfer on a different day.

Not Included:

• All flights and airport or departure taxes. Flights to Bangkok are approximately $1,650 from US, depending on departure point. Bangkok-Paro round trip flights will be booked by our leader with the cost added to your final payment, approximately $954 in business class (quoted April 2010).
• Gratuities: Tipping is, of course, discretionary, however we suggest budgeting $15 to $16 per day per participant (a total of $300 to $320 per participant) to be distributed among all the resident naturalists, drivers, camp staff and porters. The gratuity will be collected at the end of the tour.
• Personal items, toiletries, and any bottled drinks at accommodations other than water.

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Other Details

Reservations: Please contact us to assure space availability and to let us answer your questions. Then, fill out our reservation form, and mail it to us with your deposit:

Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris
20800 Kittredge Road
Saratoga, CA 95070
Toll Free: (800) 527-5330
Local: (408) 741-5330
Fax: (408) 741-0358
Email: info@cheesemans.com

Flights: Please let us know if you would like help arranging your own flights. You should plan a round-trip flight from your home to Bangkok Suvarnabhumi Airport (BKK). Our leader, Hishey, will arrange and book the flight from Bangkok to Paro on Druk Air, and the cost will be added to your final payment.

Arrive: Leave home on March 12 or 13, depending on flight schedules, to arrive in Bangkok by the evening of March 14, at the latest, for an overnight at the Novotel Hotel near the Bangkok Suvarnabhumi Airport (BKK). A daily non-stop Thai Air flight departs from LAX at 11:10pm and arrives at 6:40am (two days later) and the Thai Air flight from JFK departs at 11:35am to arrive at 4:10pm, also two days later, crossing the International Dateline (lose one day) and arriving at BKK. Flights are also available on NW and United from SFO and Seattle via Tokyo to Bangkok. Our group will fly from Bangkok to Paro, Bhutan, early on March 15.

Departure: We will leave Bhutan on the morning flight from Paro to Bangkok on April 4. Plan to take an evening flight home on April 4 from Bangkok, or a morning flight on April 5 (in this case we recommend an optional overnight at the Novotel Hotel). Gain one day across the International Date Line. The Thai Air flight from BKK to LAX departs at 7:20pm with the present schedule and arrives in LAX at 9:25pm the same day and the Thai Air flight to JFK leaves at 12:40am to arrive at 7:10am. Flights on United and NWA/Continental (code share) require an overnight in Bangkok, as they depart about 6am.

Hishey Tshering

Our Leader: Hishey Tshering, our excellent guide, lives in Thimphu, the capital of Bhutan. Hishey has a longtime interest in birds and wildlife. He worked for the Royal Society for the Protection of Nature (RSPN), the only environmental non-governmental organization in Bhutan. In 1998, he worked with the International Crane Foundation and its co-founder, George Archibald, in the first color banding and radio collaring program of the Black-necked Cranes to study their migratory route. Today, Hishey still serves on the board of RSPN and continues to work with the International Crane Foundation.

Attention to detail, knowledge of Bhutan, focus on quality, and personal service have made him a very successful guide in Bhutan since 1999. He believes in "Gross National Happiness", which he exudes during your entire visit. Hishey is not only one of the very few excellent Bhutanese birders, he is also a fantastic cultural guide.

Transportation, Lodging and Camping: Enjoy excellent lodges, rustic bed and breakfasts, plus carefree mobile camping off the beaten track. Travel in a modern bus with Hishey, plus an outstanding driver and assistant guide. Your full camp staff will travel by truck to set-up your comfortable campsite before your arrival. They will erect your tents and arrange your sleeping cots, blankets, and pillows; erect a dining tent; prepare and serve all meals; port your luggage; erect a shower tent and heat hot shower water upon request. If you are a coffee aficionado, we suggest you bring your own. The tents are approximately 9x9 feet with high roof. There will be no electricity at campsites. Several pit toilets will be newly dug at each campsite for your convenience. A battery-operated lantern will be available in each tent, but you should bring a good flashlight and headlamp, with spare batteries. Bring your own towel.

Climate: Temperatures vary at this season from cold at high elevations to very comfortable, depending on the time of day. It will be very cool in the early morning and in the evening. It's the "dry" season, but rain will likely be encountered. Bring a warm jacket that is rain and wind resistant. Insects are not normally a problem in Bhutan, but we recommend that you bring insect repellant. If it rains, a small species of leech may be active in the grasses. Hishey will lend everyone a set of pullover "leech socks" that go over your socks and pants but inside your shoes and then up to your knees.

Travel Insurance: Emergency Medical Insurance is optional for this tour. Read about travel insurance and our recommendations and requirements.

Mailing List: If you would like to be on our mailing list or request information, please use our online information request form or send us your name, address, email address and phone number. Please note we will never share your personal information with anybody

Responsibility: Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris, Saratoga, California, act only as agents and shall not be responsible or become liable for any delay incurred by any person in connection with any means of transportation, nor for the loss, damage, or injury to person or property by reason of any event beyond the control of the agency or default of such agency suppliers. We reserve the right to cancel the tour prior to departure in which case full refund will constitute full settlement to the passenger. No refund will be made for any unused portion of the tour unless arrangements are made at the time of booking. All rates are based on current tariffs, exchange rates and fuel prices and are subject to adjustment in the event of any change therein. By sending your initial deposit, you agree to accept our payment schedule as a contract. If payments are still outstanding two weeks after the due date, your space may be forfeited. Baggage is at the owner's risk.

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All material © Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris.
All photos © Doug or Ted Cheeseman, unless otherwise credited.
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