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Our BlogIf you traveled with us, we would enjoy posting your memorable experiences here, simply your paragraph and photo to us. Current Blog Topics: (read our blog archive).
Great White Bears of AlaskaPosted November 21, 2011
by Helen Clement The trip along the Dalton Highway northward, crossing the Arctic circle, through superb scenery of lovely autumn colours was lovely. In Prudhoe Bay, we saw Musk Oxen, wolves, bears, lots of Snowy Owls, moose - it was amazing.
From Prudhoe Bay, we flew on a small plane to an Inupiat village on a remote island to see Polar Bears - one of the highlights of the trip. Arctic coastal villages are allowed to hunt the Bowhead Whale, under strict control of a whale harvest quota that is awarded to each village according to number of residents and the historic harvest. There is a "bone yard" at the end of the island where the Inupiat leave the whale carcass when they finished dividing it between the village people. This whaling of course sustains these native peoples throughout the winter and, of course, the Polar Bears benefit from the leftovers during this time of year when there is little else to eat. The bears live on an adjacent island while waiting for the sea to freeze, and with their wonderful sense of smell know when a whale carcass is available. They swim over and have a great feast. We also accompanied Robert, one of the village elders, in his Zodiac and saw the Polar Bears up-close and personnel - no danger to anyone. Robert shared some history of the island and the Polar Bears. Hugh encouraged us get up early and stay up late taking advantage of the soft light to take some magical photographs of the bears. Just being in this very remote part of Alaska was very special indeed. Hugh Rose is an exceptional tour leader, he is extremely knowledgeable and with his eagle-eyes can spot wildlife from great distances. He is a very conscientious guide, with safety and the welfare of the animals uppermost in his mind. Being a photographer himself, he helped us get the best possible photographs. Amazing! I am happily joining Hugh, who is the Expedition Leader, on the Antarctic Peninsula journey at the end of 2012. Note: Join Hugh Rose, one of our most favorite trip leaders, way up north on one of our Alaskan tours or way down south on our Antarctic Peninsula expedition, December 30, 2012 to January 17, 2013. Return to top Six BearsPosted August 4, 2011
Excerpt from the trip log by Ted Cheeseman We sailed aboard the Polar Pioneer on through the night, arriving at 5 AM at the mixing waters of the mouth of Woodfjorden to delight in an abundance of whales. Fin Whales, a mother and calf and a few more, were so very special to see. We figure these were the same animals we met in these same waters just three days before, still gorging themselves on the rich mixing waters of the Arctic Ocean. We navigated along at the whim of the whales making curly-q's and loops on the ship's plotter until the whales turned along their way with their own ideas diverging from ours. As we sailed west into Liefderfjorden, Minke Whales picked up where the Fins left off, chin-breaching and surface lunging to gulp in the rich productivity of summer in the High Arctic. How rare to get such excellent views of Minkes! We call them the "blow and go" whale, never sticking around for a good second look, but we all got good looks today.
Past the Minkes we approached the island complex of Andoyane, low islands of deep red Devonian sandstone that were deposited in dry times when Svalbard was a tropical desert. Walking one of these islands was a mother bear with two cubs, more than enough to convince us to get in zodiacs to try our luck at approaching close. We traveled as a group in hopes of finding this lovely bear family, but soon found another bear. Well, that is until the bear ducked down behind a ridge. So we traveled on, and found a sleeping bear. Who kept sleeping. And sleeping. And sleeping some more. He did get up and turn around once or twice. After some time, with stories of bears sleeping whole seasons away in the same spot once the ice retreated, we made our way onward, our desires for that perfect bear encounter eluding us yet. There was plenty more to watch as we continued our quest for bears. The name Andoyane means "duck islands", and the waterfowl along its shores, especially Common and King Eider, showed the name to be very fitting. Grey Phalarope, Purple Sandpiper and Snow Bunting plus a variety of other beautiful birds held our attention. Each of our zodiacs made their own way along the intricate Andoyane shoreline and some struck gold! They spent a bit of time, albeit at a very respectful distance, getting a few looks at a mom and cubs, in deep appreciation for the beauty of the cubs and the proud nature of the Polar Bear. After a respectable sighting of six bears for the day, it was time for all zodiacs to return to the Polar Pioneer. Even though cameras remained insatiate, we felt privileged just to be in the waters and to travel the same shores as Polar Bears. The Polar Pioneer sailed southwest farther into Leifderfjorden. The ice that stopped us in our tracks just three days before was now a mere thin skin on the ocean's surface. On the ice at some distance we spotted three more bears, so we parked the ship in the ice. Both appeared to be hunting, one by waiting quietly at a ringed seal breathing hole, the other by stalking seals that were laying on the ice. Repeatedly the bear approached, quietly, softly, stealthily, and repeatedly the seals in his sights slipped into the sea. Once there were no more visible seals to be stalked, our bear moved on in search of more fruitful hunting. We moved on also, to the farthest reaches of Leifderfjorden to the foot of Monacobreen, a stunning glacier crashing into the sea at the terminus of the fjord. A magnificent ending to a fascinating day! Return to top Bats at NdutuPosted July 20, 2011
by Gail Cheeseman Dan Logen took these great photos of all three species of bats found around Ndutu Safari Lodge during our Tanzania and Kenya Safari this past February. Ndutu, our most favorite place on the planet, is a less-traveled area on the southern shore of Lake Ndutu where the southern Serengeti and Ngorongoro Conservation Area meet. We spent six days here, exploring the wonders of the woodlands, marshes and out on the plains. The handsome and common Yellow-winged Bat (Lavia frons) is found flying around the lodge even in the daytime and can be easily found roosting in the trees where they are fairly conspicuous. Some safari-mates reported up-close views of these bats catching insects attracted to the light outside their room at night! This bat uses echolocation in a finely tuned system to hunt small insects flying through the air. High-frequency sound waves are emitted from its nose and large ears capture the reflected waves. The next two bats are less-common and not well known. The Mauritian Tomb Bat (Taphozous mauritania) is distinguished from other bat species by its white underside (not clearly visible in this photo). It can be found throughout much of Africa south of the Sahara. These bats like to hunt insects at night. It has good eyesight, a trait common in old world bats that helps it find roosting locations. They like to roost in small groups on sides of buildings or trees - this one was found roosting during the day on the rear outside wall of some of the cabins. The last bat belongs to the Horseshoe Bat family, (genus Rhinolophus), and we haven't figured out the exact species yet. These bats have leaf-like, horseshoe-shaped protrusions on their noses. All species are insectivorous, capturing insects in flight. We find it roosting under the eaves outside the kitchen building most years that we visit here. They must rely entirely on echolocation to find their way since they have such tiny eyes. Note: Our 23-day safari visits our very favorite places, such as Ndutu, on an itinerary that we personally refined during more than sixty previous safaris to East Africa. Sign-up now for our next safari to Tanzania and Kenya starting February 11, 2012. Return to top You Gotta be "Echidning"Posted July 6, 2011
by Debbie Thpmpson
One of the most strangest and most interesting and charming creatures I have ever seen is the Short-beaked Echidna in Australia. These delightful animals belong to the monotreme order of egg-laying mammals that include only four species: the Platypus plus three species of Echidna. Echidnas are also known as Spiny Anteaters because of their habit of tearing open soft logs and anthills then using their long sticky tongue to lick up ants and termites. They are covered in long spines and course hair and have an elongated snout with a nose and mouth at the end. Like the Platypus, the snout has electroreceptors at the tip. Their short strong limbs and large claws are used for digging. The female lays a single soft, leathery shelled egg which is deposited directly into her backward-facing pouch. The egg hatches in only ten days and the puggle (that is what the young are called!) remains in the pouch sucking milk from the pores of two milk patches (there are no nipples in monotremes). After about two months the puggle starts to develop spines that the mother finds uncomfortable so she digs a nursery burrow for them and kicks the puggle out of the pouch. The puggle is weaned about six months later. If disturbed the Echidna will usually vigorously dig, sinking into the ground so only the spines are exposed. They can also curl into a ball so that spines stick out in every direction. Return to top Our Tribute to The BossPosted June 23, 2011
Excerpt from the trip log by Ali Liddle
Our visit to the historical whaling station at Grytviken was a highlight for many, especially for those interested in the Heroic Age of Polar Exploration. Grytviken was established as the island's first whaling station in 1904. Many of us headed to the cemetery to visit the final resting place of Sir Ernest Shackleton who died in South Georgia in 1922 after a most remarkable life of exploration. Sir Ernest Shackleton is most famous for his extraordinary effort to save the lives of all his men after their ship, The Endurance, was crushed in sea ice. His expedition to cross the Antarctic continent by dogsled sailed south in 1915, but upon reaching the Weddell Sea in January, found the sea ice was forming early freezing the ship in the ice. With no hope for escape, the crew settled in to wait out the long Antarctic winter. When spring finally arrived in September, the breaking up of the ice put extreme pressure on the ship's hull – The Endurance finally succumbed and sank to its icy grave in November. For almost two months more, the frightened crew marched and camped on large ice floes as they drifted northward. In April, their worst nightmare came true as the floe crumbled under their feet as Shackleton ordered them into the lifeboats that they laboriously dragged with them. After five long days at sea, they arrived at Elephant Island at the tip of the Antarctic Peninsula. They were now on solid ground for the first time in almost 500 days. Since Elephant Island is far from any shipping routes and settlements and his men were in bad shape, Shackleton and five sailors, outfitted the strongest of the lifeboats, the James Caird, and sailed 800 miles through a hurricane and the inhospitable seas of the Southern Ocean for fifteen harrowing days to South Georgia. They finally landed in May and after a few days of recuperation Shackleton decided to chance a land route with two of his men up and over the dangerous mountainous spine of the island to Stromness, a whaling station, on the opposite coast. After a 36-hour journey, they were welcomed to Stromness by the unbelieving station manager. Shackleton sent a boat back to rescue the three men he left on the other Coast of South Georgia. He also immediately started work on a plan to rescue the men waiting on Elephant Island. After three attempts at rescue, he finally rescued his men in August. Most amazingly, Shackleton didn't loose any of his men during this most famous and unbelievable story of bravery. We all gathered at the cemetery surrounding the grave of "The Boss", as Shackleton was fondly known, to raise a small customary tot of whiskey to his monumental achievement as a leader of men. Pauline Carr spoke at the grave side and the words of Russel Owen sent shivers down our spines, "For scientific leadership give me Scott, for swift and efficient travel give me Amundsen but when you are in a hopeless position, when there seems no way out, get down on your knees and pray for Shackleton." He was held in high regard by all and had the admiration of everyone who had gathered to honor a great man. Note: There are many books about Shackleton's amazing journey, one of the best is Carolyn Alexander's The Endurance: Shackleton's Legendary Antarctic Expedition, which contains many photos taken during the expedition. Toast Shackleton at his graveside during our expeditions to the Antarctic Peninsula, South Georgia, and Falkland Islands in December 2011 and South Georgia in October 2012. Learn more about the historical aspects of our South Georgia visits. Return to top Bee-eaters are BeautifulPosted June 7, 2011
Photos © Doug Cheeseman
by Debbie Thpmpson Bee-eaters are one of my favorite families of birds. I think it is the brightly colored plumage that attracts me most; their color palette would make an artist's heart flutter. Plus their charming personality captivates the soul. There are 26 different species of Bee-eaters found mostly in Africa and Asia, and also in Europe, Australia and New Guinea. Their silhouette is characterized by a long central tail feather (some longer than others) and long pointed beak. As their name suggests, they eat mostly flying insects, especially bees and wasps, which are snagged in the air from perches. They are highly aerial, taking-off quickly and flying aerobatically while catching their prey. Once caught, the bee-eater removes a stinger by repeatedly hitting and rubbing the insect on a hard surface until the venom is released. Interestingly, insects are only caught on the wing and are ignored once they land. Bee-eaters are gregarious, forming nesting colonies in burrows dug into the sides of earth cliffs or directly into level ground. A pair digs the burrows with help from others that may have joined them. The soil or sand is loosened with jabs of the sharp bill and then the feet are used to kick out the loosened earth. There may be several false starts where burrows are dug partway before being abandoned; in solitary species this can give the impression of colonial living. The process of nest building can take as long as twenty days to complete, during which the bill can be both blunted and shortened. Nests are generally used only for a single season and are rarely used twice by the bee-eaters, but abandoned bee-eater nests may be used by a host of other birds, snakes and bats. Bee-eaters spend around 10% of their day on what are known as comfort activities. These include sunning, dust bathing and water bathing. Sunning helps warm birds in the morning, reducing the need to waste energy in raising body temperature. It also strengthens social bonds, as multiple birds adopt the same sunning posture. Sunning also helps remove parasites such as mites and fleas accumulate while nesting in burrows. To bath in water, they take shallow dives and then return to a perch to preen. Note: Join us in Tanzania and Kenya where you have the opportunity to see several species of beautiful bee-eaters, including the White-fronted, White-throated, Somali, Little, Cinnamon-chested, Blue Cheeked, European and Carmine Bee-eaters! Return to top Good Morning Shipmates!Posted May 9, 2011
Excerpt from the trip log by David Shaw "Good Morning Shipmates!" Ted Cheeseman's words reverberated through the speakers at 6:30 am as they would each morning during this extraordinary Antarctic expedition. I peered out my window to find a stiff breeze lifting white caps on the waters of the bay. But beyond the light chop lay the grassy hills of New Island, part of the Falkland Islands, our first landing on this expedition of a lifetime. By 7:45 am the staff were whipping off to shore in the zodiacs soon followed by the first load of passengers. Despite the light sea chop, the wind on shore was only slight and everyone soon began climbing up to the far side of the island to experience our first colony of seabirds. As we soon learned, visiting a seabird colony is an olfactory experience as much as visual one; before we could even see the birds we could smell them. The rich smell of penguin, albatross, and cormorant guano filled the air and kept our imaginations in overdrive. When we reached the top of hill overlooking a gully the thousands of Rockhopper Penguins, Black-browed Albatross, and Blue-eyed Shags filled our senses. They were tucked in amongst the tussock grasses and rocks, and lined the tall sides of the cliffs that formed the sides of the narrow gully. Striated Caracaras were nesting in the cliffs and kept a keen eye on the colony for unwary prey. Giant Petrels and Snowy Sheathbills patrolled the area for carrion. Many of us braved the steep slippery slopes and rocks to climb back down to the base of the gully at the shoreline where small groups of Rockhopper Penguins were launching themselves from the water onto the rocks in synchronicity with the heavy surf. We were captivated! These penguins are aptly named as they amazingly climbed up the side of the rocky cliff to their nests at the top to deliver a precious cargo – food for tiny chicks. We also watched a huge bull Southern Sea Lion as he patrolled the turbulent waves searching the kelp beds for octopus and squid, and sometimes even an unweary penguin. He lifted his enormous head from the water to give us, what I judged to be, a rather skeptical look.
The few hours we had did not feel like enough to many and some left the cliffs of birds very reluctantly. But it was only the start of our day! Most of us decided to walk to the second seabird colony as the morning's clouds turned into skies dominated by blue that painted cloud shadows across the green hillsides of the island and blue waters of the South Atlantic. When I finally reached the second colony of Black-browed Albatross, Rockhopper and Gentoo Penguins, and Blue-eyed Shags many photographers were already lined-up and composing images of the thousands of birds. The light just got better as the hours passed. It was a delight for the photographers and I could feel the excitement in the air. Everyone was grinning! Wouldn't you smile too if you were surrounded by courting albatross lit by beautiful light? We all hoped that the remainder of our expedition landings would be as wonderful as this first one. Note: New Island is high on our list of the best stops on the Falkland Islands during our Antarctic Peninsula, South Georgia, and Falkland Islands adventure for 29 days, December 29, 2011 to January 26, 2012. Return to top Eye-to-eye with a HumpbackPosted April 28, 2011
Video by Mark Rentz
Ted Cheeseman explained this humpback encounter: "We first met this whale in 2006, and recognized her again by how friendly she was and by her markings. This beautiful female Humpback Whale repeatedly swam by us within a few feet to check us over, looking closely at us out of one eye and, as shown in this video, rolled over to take a peek out of her other eye. We will never forget this awe-inspiring connection with another intelligent species." The Silver Bank is located 70 miles north of the Dominican Republic in the warm waters of the Caribbean. Underwater is a submerged limestone plateau, known as a bank, with an average depth of 100 feet and 60 feet in the shallower areas. In some areas many coral heads reach the ocean surface, especially at low tide. By establishing the Sanctuary for the Marine Mammals in 1986, the Dominican Republic has continued a legacy of environmental conservation and protection at a time when other Caribbean nations are quietly supporting the resumption of commercial whaling. The Humpbacks come to these banks from the North Atlantic to give birth and mate during winter months. Note: We travel at the peak of the breeding season to provide you with a once-in-a-lifetime experience of whale watching and in-water encounters. This popular trip fills very quickly, but we still have spaces available on our tour from March 2 to 9, 2013. Return to top Falls ExtraordinairePosted April 14, 2011 by Debbie Thpmpson
Our informative guide led us all on the upper and lower walkway system that borders the falls and offered many vantage points. This extraordinary waterfall system consists of 275 falls, some reaching close to 300 feet high, along 1.7 miles of the Iguazu River. The Devil's Throat (Garganta del Diablo in Spanish), a humongous U-shaped cataract, 270-feet tall by 490-feet wide by 2,300-feet long, is the most impressive falls in the system, and marks the border between Argentina and Brazil. The Iguazu River runs over a plateau that was formed by volcanic activity during the Mesozic Era more than 135 million years ago. The falls was formed about 200,000 years ago when a shift in a geological fault opened a vertical crack in the plateau causing the river to spill over the cliff. The interleaved layers of sandstone and basalt that form the cliff erode at different rates, often causing the layers to fall off in large sheets of rock. This erosion not only influenced the shape and size of Iguazu Falls, but it moved the falls about 30 miles upstream from its original position and still continues to move the falls today. Iguazu is also often compared with Southern Africa's Victoria Falls, which separates Zambia and Zimbabwe. Iguazu is wider, but Victoria is the largest curtain of water in the world. The amount of water falling over the Iguazu system is second only to Niagara Falls. Some of the individual falls are up to 269 feet in height, though the majority are about 210 feet (about the same height as Niagara Falls). You have to see the falls to believe it; it is hard to put into words – impressive, enormous, powerful, deafening are just a few that only come close. Our guide led us around the miles of incredible walkways to different viewpoints – some looked up at the falls, some overlooked them, some looked straight on the falling water, and some even allowed you to stand on top of the water as it plunged over. We could see our Hotel Sheraton Iguazu in the distance – the only hotel conveniently located inside the park. Extra cute Coatis, raccoon-like animals with a long snout also used the walkways. Many beautiful rainforest birds were seen along the trails. After lunch, we walked over to the tram station and jumped on. This tram has open cars with benches to sit on, something like you would find at an amusement park. It took us uphill to the top of the main falls called the Devil's Throat. At the top, we walked on more walkways that pass over both the very wide river and over the forest floor. Soon we were at the platform above the Devil's Throat as it spilled over the rocks. What power and noise the falls exhibited right under our feet! Mist filled the air and we couldn't see where the water landed in the river below. Note: Stroll these same walkways of Iguazu during our tour to Argentina and Brazil, August 29 to September 21, 2011. The falls is just one stop on this journey that visits the best parts in this region of South America - Andes, Iguazú Falls, Pantanal, and Amazon Basin. Return to top Wolves, Just Over that HillPosted April 7, 2011 by Dan Logen
The eight of us sat on a rocky perch at 4096 meters (13,438 feet) elevation, snacking on our picnic lunch and observing the rarest canid in the world. That we all arrived safely at this point was somewhat surprising, as we had just hiked several kilometers up and down mountainsides at this elevation, and were a motley crew of ecotourists; some of us old, some of us overweight, and others with various health problems. We were in the Bale (rhymes with "valley") Mountains National Park in Ethiopia, watching the Ethiopian wolf, Canis simensis. The Ethiopian wolf lives nowhere else in the world. It has just seven populations in Ethiopia and numbers only about 500 individuals in total. It lives at high elevations -- above 3200 meters -- in the Afro-alpine zone. Its diet consists almost exclusively of the diurnal giant mole rat, Tachyoryctes macrocephalus. Unlike most wolves, the Ethiopian wolf is usually a solitary hunter, pouncing on the rats when they come out of their burrows, or digging them out. Occasionally the wolves may hunt as a pack, and bring down a hare, hyrax, or young ungulate. Although they typically hunt alone, they are otherwise very social animals, living in packs consisting of 8-25 animals, depending on the number of young. Each pack maintains a specific territory, although females will leave their natal pack to join another, and wandering males account for the majority of breedings. By far, the largest population of Ethiopian wolves occur in the Bale Mountains, and seeing some of them was our primary goal in visiting this mountain park. We had spent several hours driving the roads searching for the wolves with no success. A side road then led us to a small camp consisting of two building and a few simple shelters for tents, elevation 4132 meters (13,556 feet). A grizzled, bearded, partially toothless man named Tahir greeted us in Amharic, I presume. He was wearing a traditional Muslim headdress, as well as a Pentax binocular around his neck -- a good sign, I thought. He seemed ageless; perhaps he was a weathered young man, or maybe he was a well-preserved old man. Solomon, our guide, told us that Tahir was a park ranger of sorts, and his responsibility was to protect the Ethiopian wolf. Even better, Tahir had agreed to lead us to a wolf den, if we were willing to walk just over the hill behind the camp. Something was lost in translation, as the expected short and easy walk turned out to be an arduous hike over several hills. I'm sure the high altitude and the accompanying hypoxia distorted our estimates of the distance, but it seemed like many miles... Read Dan's entire interesting narrative about the quest for wolves, Meeting the endangered Ethiopian wolf, at The Guardian. Note: Join our next tour to Ethiopia in January 2012 to see great numbers of birds, many of them endemic, plus diverse landscapes and many mammal species, such as the Gelada Baboon and Ethiopian Wolf. Return to top In Search of WhiskersPosted March 24, 2011 by Phillip Colla
This morning we awake anchored in Fortuna Bay. Some early-birds opt for a 6 am landing, while others wait until after breakfast to go ashore. I go early. The beach has many fur seals and king penguins, more broadly spread about than what we saw yesterday. It is very overcast, and the light is low. The animals are soaking wet, as is the grass in which the fur seals bed down. I decide to shoot portraits, using as much lens as I have. My goal is to illustrate the long whiskers that are characteristic of Antarctic fur seals. The fur seals use these whiskers when foraging for food, although the exact sense that the whiskers provide is not yet fully known. The whiskers may serve as a crude form of close-proximity radar at depths so great there is no light, providing exceptionally sensitive touch for sensing vibration in the water caused by their prey: squid and fish. Most of the group arrives after breakfast by which time the fog is lifting and it is getting brighter. Above us, on the lower slopes of the mountains that tower above Fortuna Bay, is a small herd of reindeer and an area with nesting terns. I hike about 300-400' up to see the reindeer, and am surprised to find many fur seals that have settled down on the grassy slopes high above the beach. Why do they feel the need to climb so high? It must be for the view. After returning down to the beach I sit down to watch a group of king penguins, several of whom approach me so closely I can photograph a single king penguin's head full-frame. Their plumage is really something to behold. What great birds. There are fur seal pups scattered among the tussock grass and playing in small pockets of water on the beach. I find one leucistic antarctic fur seal pup, so lacking in pigmentation that it appears blond. We will only see a few leucistic fur seals this entire trip since they are quite uncommon. Note: After you read potographer Phillip Colla's in-depth and entertaining report with great photography from our last expedition to Antarctica you won't be able to resist signing up for our next expedition starting December 2011. Return to top Prince William SoundPosted March 3, 2011
Video by Sarah Westbrook, photos by Hugh Rose and Jim Thomason
Prince William Sound is a premier ecosystem with a diversity of wildlife and habitat surrounded by scenic landscapes. It is protected from the open Pacific Ocean by large islands at its southern edge creating a calm boater's paradise. The Sound is bordered by the Kenai Mountains on the west and the Chugach Mountains on the north and east, including Mount Marcus Baker, the tallest peak in the Chugach at over 13K feet. Dozens of tidal and hanging glaciers cascade from these mountains providing dramatic calving of huge ice chunks into the sound. Most of the land surrounding Prince William Sound is part of the Chugach National Forest, a rain forest of Sitka Spruce and Western Hemlock. Prince William Sound encompasses 3,800 miles of coastline supporting more than 220 species of birds, 30 species of land mammals, and at least a dozen marine mammals. Bald eagles are plentiful along treetops and shorelines. Among the estimated 200,000 seabirds that summer in the sound are Marbled Murrelets, Black-legged Kittiwakes, and Glaucous-winged Gulls. Along western Prince William Sound, black bears may be seen on narrow beaches below mountainous, glacier-choked vistas. To the east, brown bears roam on the barrier islands. Moose and mountain goats can be seen as well. Resident marine mammals include Humpback, Sei, Fin, Minke, and Orca whales as well as Steller Sea Lions, Harbor Seals, and Sea otters, all of which reach some of their greatest numbers in Prince William Sound. Note: Join our fantastic tour to see wildlife and landscapes in Prince William Sound and Copper River Delta with our popular leader, Hugh Rose, in early May for 13 days. Visit the Copper River Delta during peak shorebird migration and sail the remote corners of Prince William Sound on board the small and comfortable ship Discovery. Return to top Lemur LovePosted February 24, 2011 by Debbie Thompson
Today we spent the day hiking in Ranomafana (which means "hot water" in Malagasy) National Park located in eastern Madagascar. The park was established in 1991 to conserve the unique biodiversity of dense rainforest and protects 161 square miles of habitat, home to twelve lemur species! There are also many birds, tenrecs, bats, civets and mongooses, plus chameleons and geckos of all sizes. Two additional local guides, who were very knowledgeable about the park, guided us on our hike turning up all kinds of interesting things. I learned early on that when one of them discreetly calls you near, you run over without hesitation since there is certainly something special to see. Our local guides found our first lemurs for the trip, a few Milne-Edwards' Sifakas eating in the tops of the trees. We excitedly followed these dark-furred lemurs through the thick forest getting good looks before they disappeared. Sifakas are a genus of lemur in the family Indriidae within the order Primates. This genus has a head-body length of less than two feet, a very long tail, and a weight of 6 to 13 pounds. Sifakas effortlessly move through the trees by vertical swinging and powerful leaping sometimes up to 30 feet! They only move along the ground when they have no other choice, taking sideways hops on their two hind legs while holding their forelimbs up –some call this move the "Sifaka Dance". Our guides also managed to find a few Eastern Gray Bamboo Lemurs sitting high in a tree. These medium-sized lemurs eat the giant bamboo that is common in this forest. We also had good looks at a Red-fronted Brown Lemur adult and young in the crook of a tree. Lemurs are very challenging to see and photograph, sitting more than 20 feet up in a tree hidden by thick forest. But it was the experience to seeing these rare mammals in the wild that we were after. At night, we hiked back in the park to a viewing platform to watch some of the nocturnal animals. Sure enough, as soon as we arrived at the platform a female Red-bellied Lemur and a couple of Malagasy Striped Civets were waiting. We followed our guide down the trail a bit to see an Eastern Ring-tailed Mongoose, a shy animal. We snapped a few photos of the mongoose and then the civet came out of the brush and chased it away. A Brown Mouse Lemur was tempted out of hiding by the smell of bananas rubbed on the trees. True to its name, this tiny lemur could fit in the palm of your hand and had very large eyes suited to nighttime sight. Note: Approximately 80% of all plant and animal species found in Madagascar are endemic, including the lemurs, three bird families and three of the island's six baobab trees and many other plant species. Join our "Quest for Endemics" on the island-continent of Madagascar in October 2011. Return to top Hummer FestPosted February 17, 2011
Excerpt from the trip log by Jim Danzenbaker A full breakfast at the Los Quetzales lodge had us well fed before we boarded our 4x4 wheel vehicles for the bumpy ride. Los Quetzales is a mountain lodge in Panama with guest rooms and backcountry cabins that appeal to hikers, nature lovers, and especially bird-watchers. Our destination this morning was Cabins 2 and 3 - rustic wooden cabins that are nestled within the cloud forest of Volcan Baru National Park, about a 25-minute drive away from the main lodge and up a bumpy road. We enjoyed the finest that Los Quetzales had to offer as soon as we emerged from the vehicles to the sight of a pair of black and yellow Silky-Flycatchers building a nest nearby and a Black-billed Nightingale-Thrush bouncing along the roadside. We sidestepped the trout pools filled with varying sizes of trout on our way to the cabins.
We spent the better part of five hours on the patio terrace surrounded by hummingbird feeders marveling at the myriad of hummingbirds darting back and forth. At no time were the feeders left unattended by these avian jewels. Brilliant Violet Sabrewings sparred with Magnificent Hummingbirds and White-throated Mountain-Gems for feeder space while Stripe-tailed and Fiery-throated Hummingbirds timed their own feeding frenzies. Green Violetears and Green-crowned Brilliants rounded out the hummer fest. We thought "hard-hat zone" should be posted to protect against collisions from the jetting birds! Hummers were only a part of the show. Large-footed and Yellow-thighed Finches, Rose-breasted Grosbeaks and Chestnut-capped Brush-Finches came to hanging feeders and to the seed strewn ground below. A Slaty Finch, a species not often encountered, was also attracted to the seed. A Black Guan, rare for Los Quetzales, was as surprised by us as we were of it when it flew down to the vegetation close to our viewing spot. Our attention was soon diverted to several Flame-throated Warblers wearing their "own sun" to brighten up the forest. As if this weren't enough, a pair of Golden-browed Chlorophonias (AKA Crayola Crayon birds) was nest building in the moss and epiphytes of an exposed low-level limb, creating mega photographic moments. On this morning of dazzling color, what more could we ask for? Question answered by a group of Resplendent Quetzals that performed aerial acrobatics for us at eyelevel with unobstructed views! Many say this is the most beautiful bird in the world and they had our vote! Appearances by Prong-billed Barbets, colorful and cheery Collared Redstarts and Barred Becards completed the avian parade. Lunch followed in the cabin but it was difficult to concentrate on food when so many avian jewels were in view! Note: Sign-up for our next Panamanian Hummer Fest in March 2012 for 20 jewel-packed days. Jim has been guiding tours throughout Panama for over a decade and our travelmates tell us that he is one of their favorite leaders. Return to top Chaos of MovementPosted February 10, 2011
Excerpt from the trip log by David Shaw The talk around the extra-early breakfast tables concentrated on whether the swell passing under the ship would be enough to dissuade a landing on enigmatic Baily Head on Deception Island home to over 200,000 nesting Chinstrap Penguin pairs. The answer soon came across the staff's radios: "it's doable!" The excitement pulsed through the ship as everyone prepared to go ashore. The center of circular Deception Island is a caldera formed in a huge long-ago eruption and is now flooded to form a large bay. The bay has a narrow entrance only 755 feet wide, called Neptune's Bellows. The volcanic island had recent eruptions in 1967 and 1969 that caused serious damage to local scientific stations and now the only research bases are run by Argentina and Spain. Unique black volcanic sand covers the island. Everyone had been forewarned about the difficult landing conditions found at this beach. The shore here dives deep and fast underwater creating a strong and heavy swell. Despite the cautions, once on shore several passengers commented that they were quite surprised how easy it was to get in and out of the zodiacs. Of course, it helped that all of Cheesemans' numerous staff were holding boats plus grabbing arms, dry bags and tripods, and guiding people through the surf.
When everyone finally arrived ashore, we had a few hours to enjoy the remarkable sight of all this penguin action. The dramatic panorama of the long gravel beach, the ice fields and green mosses of the hillsides of Deception Island added texture and depth to the already incredible scene. Sized just over 2 feet and about 9 pounds, Chinstraps are a bundle of feistiness. The buzzing activity felt like Times Square at New Year's or Rome during the morning commute. Thousands of birds were rushing to the water, while thousands more launched themselves from the waves onto the beach creating an unparalleled penguin superhighway of comings and goings. It was a fabulous chaos of movement. The birds' anxiety increased when a Leopard Seal appeared just outside the breakers, patrolling for unwary penguins. The seal was spotted throughout the morning, its huge reptilian head looked threatening in the deep blue waters of Bransfield Strait. The weather was not entirely cooperative. A cold rain started to fall during the morning and cameras were quickly equipped with rain covers or put away as squalls moved through. Luckily most of us were well equipped with warm clothes and rain gear and were able to cope with the cold and wet. At 10AM, the first load of passengers was guided quickly onto a zodiac waiting at the edge of the surf to head back to the ship. By 10:30 there was a steady stream and the staff was kept busy spinning the zodiacs as they returned empty to the beach and loading gear and people quickly in the rough waves. Despite our own version of the penguins' chaos, the worst casualties were the occasional pair of wet socks and some submerged staff. Back on board our warm ship over anticipated steamy pizza, there was much celebration and telling of stories. This adventure at Baily Head will be on the top of our list of memorable experiences in Antarctica. Note: See the Penguin Superhighway on Baily Head for yourself on our Antarctic Peninsula, South Georgia, and Falkland Islands adventure for 29 days, December 29, 2011 to January 26, 2012. See for yourself why this is our most popular trip! Return to top Breaking Sea IcePosted February 3, 2011
Video by Phillip Colla
Sea ice passes by our ice-ship, the Polar Star, as it sails along the edge of the Weddell Sea en route to the Antarctic Peninsula. Part of the Southern Ocean, the Weddell Sea is at the southern terminus of the Atlantic Ocean lying south of the Antarctic Circle. It is bordered by the coasts of the Antarctic Peninsula and Coats Land. The southern part of the sea is covered by huge ice shelves such as the Ronne, Filchner, and Larsen. An ice shelf is a thick platform of glacial ice that flows from land and floats out some distance onto the ocean surface. Ice calves off ice shelves as they slowly flow to sea, creating icebergs of all sizes and hues. Currents carry icebergs throughout the Weddell Sea and into the Southern Ocean. Sea ice also litters the Weddell Sea; it is formed as the sea ice thaws and breaks-up each short southern summer. Note: Sail by icebergs of unbelievable hues in all shapes and sizes and through crunchy-white sea ice as you journey south during our Antarctic Expedition December 29, 2011 to January 26, 2012. See more videos taken in the Antarctic! Return to top Highway May Slice the Serengeti: UpdatePosted January 25, 2011
by Gail Cheeseman
Help us stop a disastrous plan to slice the Serengeti in two! The plan to develop and pave a major road directly through the heart of the Serengeti is still alive, only now it is becoming more ominous, especially with the news that mining of rare earth minerals in the Lake Victoria region is being developed. The new Tanzanian President Kikwete wants to have his cake (the tourism to the Serengeti) and eat it too (with a road to transport this valuable stuff through the Serengeti), but there is a better alternative, a southern road, that will not destroy this irreplaceable treasure. There may be a decision made on the road as early as next month. It has been under consideration for a long time, but only in the last year has it become widely known to the public. Last August when Doug and I were in the Serengeti driving between the Mara River in the northern Serengeti on the border of Kenya and Lobo Lodge to the south, our guides showed us a concrete marker that had been placed at the spot where the proposed paved main road would cross. It was frightening to envision it right there in the prime habitat of the famous "Migration" gathering to cross the Mara into Kenya. I encourage you to read more about the effort to stop the Serengeti Highway at Serengeti Watch, and please join and support their organization. Help us protect one of the last wonders of the Pleistocene - an intact migration of millions of herbivores constantly on the move through the last great plain on earth. Return to top Perpetual and Unforgiving StrugglePosted January 20, 2011 by Phillip Colla Midway through our crossing from South Georgia Island to Antarctica we pass the South Orkney Islands, a small group of islands that lie almost exactly between South Georgia and the Antarctic Peninsula, making them a natural place to pause during our crossing and make a landing to stretch our legs a little. After our sunrise approach to Coronation Island, the icebreaker ship M/V Polar Star anchors and we go ashore at Shingle Cove to visit a colony of adelie penguins (Pygoscelis adeliae). The colony is set atop a bluff above the ocean, subject to blasting wind and snow. The wind is so strong that it knocks a chick over now and then. Many of the chicks are huddled together for warmth in creches. Adjacent to the bluff is a snow-covered slope that the penguins descend to reach a cobblestone beach. The thousands of birds in the colony have worn dirty winding poop-covered paths in the snow. I spend most of my time on the cobblestones, watching the penguins pass back and forth. Entering the water is a dangerous proposition for a penguin, since leopard seals often patrol the shallows waiting to strike.
So the penguins gather in nervous groups at the water's edge, making a few false starts before one of the braver individuals finally commits and dives in. Immediately the rest of the group follows suit, rushing into the water in a chaotic sprint. As the waves washing in and out are hard to judge, some penguins miss time their dives and land head first on the rocks, only to pop back up quickly and try again. In a few seconds it is over – the rocks are empty. The departing penguins can now be seen porpoising at great speed out to sea to spend time foraging for food. Penguins returning to shore arrive in smaller groups or individually, but speed through the water in the same nervous way, ending their swim with a leap and an agile stand-up landing onto the rocks. After a while I spot an elephant seal lounging in a pool on rocky reef. I spend some time lying on the rocks (uncomfortable) trying to photograph it at its eye level. I'm not sure I succeeded. After that, a visit to the nesting area is in order, to see the chicks and especially the adults feeding their young. On the snowy slope between the beach and the rookery I witness a southern giant petrel's attack on a chick that ventured too far from the nest. The result is gory and tough to watch. The giant petrel does not dispatch its catch quickly. It takes about 10 minutes for the chick to die, during which time the skua consumes a good part of it. Afterward, all that is left is a tattered penguin carcass lying on the dirty snow and a blood-covered skua guarding its kill. The scene is not enjoyable to watch, but I do feel privileged to have witnessed it. It drives home the fact that the dramatic wildlife spectacles we are here to observe are a perpetual and unforgiving struggle. We leave Shingle Cove about midday, sailing along the South Orkney Islands for a while. Icebergs large and small pass by, set against the snow-covered mountains of Coronation Island. One tabular berg that we encounter is measured by the ship's radar at over 3 miles long. The thing is so large that it takes much longer to reach than expected, distance and size being quite difficult to judge in the clear dry air. Note: Read Phillip Colla's entire report with great photography from our expedition to Antarctica in December 2009 to January 2010. Return to top Peeks of PeaksPosted January 13, 2011
by Debbie Thompson This morning it was foggy and cloudy making it a bit chilly, but at least it wasn't raining. We drove east for about an hour east from Thimphu uphill on the usual curvy roads. I don't think there is one straight or flat stretch of road in Bhutan. We passed Yaks being herded along the road, an indication that we were climbing in altitude. The Yak looks like a shaggy cow with its long fur and is adapted to colder climates, so we often found them at these higher altitudes. Depending on the season, the herders move the Yaks up and down the mountains, following the green grass. The herders milk the Yaks to make cheese and butter and must carry their products back to the farm, sometimes an all-day affair.
We soon stopped at Dochula Pass at 10,000 feet. It was very windy and cold, but no matter, we piled on our warm layers. Surrounding us was a panoramic view of the surrounding High Himalayas and we grabbed momentary peeks at some snow-covered mountains to the north as the foggy clouds blew past. Over 20,000 feet, these tall jagged peaks towered incredibly above all the others. In the middle of the roundabout at the pass 108 chortens were built by Her Majesty Ashi Dorji Wangmo Wangchuk to honor His Majesty the 4th Druk Gyalpo and his people for their victory in the war fought in the southern region of Bhutan in 2003 against the Indian Assamese. The chortens were cloaked in billowing fog and surrounded by tall cypress trees creating beautiful and photogenic scenes, it was hard to tear myself away to catch up with the group. A chorten, also called a stupa, is a mound-like structure containing Bhuddist relics. They are painted white and come in many shapes and sizes. The number 108 is a very auspicious and popular number in Buddhism. For example, Buddhist malas (rosary beads) have 108 beads, 108 prayer flags are erected on tall poles when someone dies, and temples have 108 steps. Many explanations have been given for the use of this number. Hishey, our Bhutanese leader, explained to us that 1, 0, and 8 is used because: 1 stands for God or higher Truth, 0 stands for emptiness or completeness in spiritual practice, and 8 stands for infinity or eternity. We walked along the road at the pass while identifying and watching many birds. After an hour of walking and absorbing the pretty countryside, we boarded our bus and warmed up while driving down the other side of the pass to our next adventure in Bhutan. Note: Bhutan is one of the world's top ten biodiversity hotspots. Enjoy spectacular birds, stunning Himalayan scenery, and over a dozen species of fascinating mammals, including the endemic Golden Langur on one of our upcoming tours to Bhutan. Return to top The Harems of St. Andrew'sPosted January 4, 2011
Excerpt from the trip log by Ali Liddle As the sun rose again on the mountains of South Georgia Island it promised another fine day on our Antarctic isle. The summits surrounding St. Andrew's Bay were tinged with pink and the setting of the bay was beautiful. The zodiacs took us to the far right hand corner of the bay, underneath tall cliffs, to go ashore in calm waters. Milky gray melt from the Cook Glacier filled a river proving to be a bit of challenge for everyone. The staff rose to the challenge and before long there was a zodiac bridge across the river so we could roam the beach to enjoy the dense wildlife of famous St. Andrew's Bay.
The beach was packed with Southern Elephant Seals - this is the biggest elephant seal population on the island with nearly 6,000 animals! Males arrived at this beach in mid-September to setup territories in anticipation of the female's arrival. Males are typically five to six times larger than the females, showing possibly the largest sexual dimorphism of any mammal. The larger bulls, some the weight of a large SUV, had a bigger advantage in the fight to become the beachmaster of a harem. Fighting males use their weight and canine teeth against each other and we could see the resulting severe tears and cuts on some of the bulls. Females just arrived a few weeks ago in early October and joined a beachmaster in a harem to give birth and then mate; we could see a little bit of both going on. We noticed that some of the larger harems had a few loser bulls lurking on the perimeter. Dramas unfolded in front of us as lurkers repeatedly snuck into the harem to try to quickly mate with a female. The enraged beachmaster charged most of the time, trampling anything in its path, to assert his dominance. But sometimes the beachmaster didn't seem to mind; we guessed that he allowed a few loser bulls to mate with a few females in return for help in protecting the periphery from other marauding bulls. Amazing and mysterious nature asks so many unanswered questions! Wonderful St. Andrew's Bay is also home to many other species, including the largest king penguin colony in South Georgia with around 200,000 pairs, a sight to behold! Groups of molting adults were waiting for the three-week molt to finish so they could head back to their feeding grounds at sea. Fluffy brown chicks could be heard calling hungrily for their parents while the trumpeting answers of the adult birds carried in the mountain breeze. As the afternoon wore on the temperature seemed to drop and although the wildlife on the beach seemed oblivious, we humans bundled-up in the afternoon. We were comforted with the knowledge that we would return to the comfort and warmth of the ship at the end of the day while they endured another cold night in St. Andrew's Bay. Note: Seek your own answers to the mysteries of nature on our next expedition to South Georgia and Falkland Islands in October 2012. Return to top Happy Holidays from all of us!Posted December 22, 2010
The staff at Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris would like to wish all of you, our caring and loyal travelmates, a very happy holiday! Thanks for giving us the opportunity to explore the natural wonders of world with you. We look forward to traveling with you in the years ahead. Return to top Cutest Hair Tuft on EarthPosted December 16, 2010 by Debbie Thompson
After an early breakfast we joined our resident guide and driver, John, and two of our safari-mates in the four-wheel drive, pop-top safari vehicle. We were thankful that the Cheesemans plan only four participants per vehicle since this gave us lots of room for our camera and other gear, plus it was easy for everyone to get a good view out the open roof. Our five safari vehicles drove out in the same general area of Samburu National Reserve, but remained in radio contact just in case something unusual is discovered. Eagle-eye John drove us down the sandy roads through this dry, desert-like park looking for animals. It was already warm at 7 AM, so we knew it would get warmer as the day went on. We passed many pair of unique Kirk's Dik-dik, a small antelope standing between one- and two-feet tall at the shoulder. I never tired of looking at them! The males have small three-inch horns with an endearing tuft of hair between them. No matter how much I reminded myself that this was a wild animal, I couldn't shake the image of a cute bow tied around this tuft. A black spot below the inside corner of each eye contains a gland that produces a dark sticky secretion in which they insert grass stems and twigs to scent-mark their territories. Dik-diks are named for the female's alarm call, which sounds like "dik-dik" or "zik-zik", although we never heard it. Their elongated snouts have bellow-like muscles that control blood flow that prevents overheating while minimizing the need to drink water in this dry landscape. We usually found the Dik-diks hiding in or nearby a clump of protective bushes. When we saw one Dik-dik we knew it's partner should be close-by since pairs spend more than half their time together. These antelopes form permanent mating pairs, probably an evolutionary strategy since it is dangerous to wander about to seek partners. During our morning drive we also found a large Verreaux Eagle-owl asleep in a tree so we could get a good look at its surprisingly-pink eyelids. An Unstriped Ground Squirrel (I could have thought of a better name than that!) dug in the sandy-dirt while three White-Browed Sparrow Weavers picked up dislodged bugs. The squirrel didn't seem to mind when the birds walked on its tail or even stepped on his feet. I'll bet it was glad to sacrifice a few bugs to gain more eyes on the lookout for predators. Reticulated Giraffes browsed on Acacia Tree leaves, their specially designed tongue worked around the long sharp thorns. There are about six different giraffe subspecies and the Reticulated is the type that you usually see in zoos. A heard of elephants crossed the Ewaso Ngiro River River. They drank the muddy water as they strolled across the wide and shallow river. I was surprised that none stopped to wallow as you often see them do. The baby elephants played with each other in the water – they looked so happy and carefree under the protection of their powerful matriarch group. The morning safari over, we hungrily went back to the lodge for lunch. It was a great morning in this wonderful Samburu National Reserve and we were glad we spent a couple days exploring it far and wide. Note: You too can visit Samburu Game Reserve during our February safaris to Kenya and Tanzania in 2012 and 2013 and also our August safari to Kenya in 2012! You are bound to tie your own bow around a Dik-dik's tuft of hair in your mind's eye too. Return to top Gaped, Gawked, Ooh-ed and Ahh-edPosted December 7, 2010
Excerpt from the trip log by David Shaw The morning wake-up arrived all too early for many, but Steeple Jason Island lay in our future so we raised ourselves from bed and made our way to breakfast. There was not a cloud in the sky and dozens of Black-browed Albatross were skimming the moderate swell surrounding the ship. By 6:15 AM the first zodiac was lowered into the building waves, but the rolling swell that had rocked us gently in our sleep had now become something more menacing. Our Expedition Leader, Ted, always has a backup plan in reserve, so the infamous Plan B was soon called into action.
The Polar Star headed to the north side of the island to another landing spot. Many made the best of the delay and photographed the picturesque layers of sea haze on the backlit ridgelines of Steeple Jason. Hundreds of albatross wheeled in the air and challenged our photographic prowess. After challenging zodiac rides and negotiating the rocky landing with many helping-hands from the staff, everyone made it safely to the sunny heather and tussock slopes of the island. Before long, we were scattering across the island, admiring the colony of Gentoo Penguins a short distance from the landing site, watching the bold, and voracious Striated Caracaras and making our way to the main attraction: the largest colony of seabirds in the western hemisphere. Between the rocky shore and the tussocks on the island's south slope, reaching for miles in either direction lay the nesting area for 220,000 pairs of Black-browed Albatross and thousands of Rockhopper Penguins. We lined the edge of one corner of the colony and the sound of clicking shutters and excited whispers mingled with the calls of the albatross, the wind and the hiss of great wings cutting the air. We gaped, gawked, ooh-ed and ahh-ed. Some decided to lay claim to Steeple Jason as their own. And when 2 PM rolled around, the departure time for the first zodiac, not one person was waiting to leave. Finally, at 4:30 PM, the last two zodiacs reluctantly loaded and headed back to the ship. We zipped back to the ship as the engines were warming and within moments the Polar Star was underway toward new adventures ahead on South Georgia Island. Note: Sign-up now for one of our upcoming Antarctic adventures that stop at Steeple Jason - you too will not want to leave! Choose between Antarctic Peninsula, South Georgia and Falkland Islands in December 2011 and South Georgia and Falkland Islands in October 2012. Or choose both! Return to top Epic SafariPosted November 23, 2010
Video by Paul Garrett The vast savannas and vibrant habitats of Tanzania and Kenya are tops on the list of the best destinations on Earth. You will be surrounded by wildlife action and unexpected behaviors by sixty species of mammals, amazing reptiles, and more than 300 species of birds. With just four people in each of our nine-seater, pop-top Landcruisers, we spend as much time as possible exploring the vast East African plains. This entertaining video shows just a small part of the action that you will witness while on safari. Can you name all the animals that you see? Visit KidsLoveAnimals.com to learn more about Paul Garret's effort to support the Cheetah Conservation Fund with his video, "African Safari." Note: Plan now for your own epic experience - join our Southern Migration safaris in February or our Northern Migration safaris in July and August in Tanzania and Kenya. Return to top Stuck on the Spiny ForestPosted November 15, 2010
by Debbie Thompson
This afternoon we took another hike in the fascinating Spiny Forest near Ifaty, in southwest Madagascar. As on other days, our guide, Girard, hired a couple local guides that are exceedingly familiar with the local forest, trails and wildlife. The guides accompanying us this afternoon were very impressive as they identified the different bird tracks in the sandy trail and superbly mimicked bird calls to locate our target species. They searched the trail ahead of us and investigated all the side trails, covering much more ground than our group could cover alone. We followed along at a good pace and they called us when they uncovered something interesting. I learned the first day that when these guides say "come here" you don't ask any questions – just hurry over to get the best looks. While the island of Madagascar is famous for its endemic biodiversity, the Madagascar Spiny Forest eco-region is absolutely astounding, with almost 100 percent of the plant species found nowhere else on Earth. This forest is in the driest region of Madagascar, with an average rainfall of under 20 inches. Plants here are well adapted to the drought with extended root systems, enlarged trunks and branches that store water, as well as spines, small leaves, and waxy and hairy coverings that inhibit water loss. The most common plant is in the endemic Didiereaceae family of thorny succulent shrubs and trees that are characterized by clumps of thick water-storing stems giving them the common name Octopus Tree. This forest also contains Fony Baobob trees. Like all baobobs, they are bizarre looking with a massive, swollen trunk and an implausible compact crown of short, thick branches. The smooth outer bark is reddish brown, peeling off in thin layers, with a thin photosynthetic layer beneath. They are aptly nicknamed the "upside-down tree" since it looks like the roots stick up in the sky. The soil, if you can call it that, is very poor and sandy, but a wonderful reddish color. There are many endemic animals in the Spiny Forest too: lemurs, birds and chameleons. During our walk, one of our tour-mates spied something digging in a small hole in the sand along the trail. It turned out to be a male Rinocerous Chameleon, with a curious protruding appendage near its nostrils used to battle over females. Girard put it on a branch and we got some nice photos while it changed colors to match its mood. Contrary to popular belief, a chameleon typically does not change colors to match its surroundings. Instead, color is usually used to convey emotions, defend territories, and communicate with mates. Among many other birds, our guides also found the rare, endemic Long-tailed Ground Roller, a medium-sized brown and white striped bird with beautiful aqua-blue wings. It stayed motionless on the ground under the thick bushes, thinking it was invisible, while we all admired its magnificence. It was nearing evening now and our few days of exploring the Spiny Forest near Ifaty were over. We became "stuck" on this captivating desert forest but we must move on tomorrow and turn our attentions to the next adventure on this island of endemics. Note: Madagascar is an enigmatic and endangered land that is home to some of the world's most unusual mammals, birds, and chameleons. Cheesemans' provides you with the time and leadership to watch and photograph Madagascar's uniqueness. Check-out our 24-day trip to Madagascar in October 2011. Return to top
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