Introduction
So what do you pack for a month in Antarctica? Given the length of our trip it is tempting to bring everything. On my first trip I left home feeling like a pack mule. It turns out I'd brought less than many folks, but I was still overloaded compared to the veteran staff. After several trips I now know why it's better to pack lean. The first reason is the flight down: depending on the itinerary, you are checking, claiming or carrying all of your baggage through a minimum of three airports and two bus trips. It's still a fun trip but it's a lot easier with lighter bags. The second reason is the limited drawer and closet space in each cabin. The cabins are comfortable but compact - the more you have, the more you have to search to find what you actually need. Finally, there's the trip home - repacking at the end happens in the last few hours that we could be spending with friends.
What follows are some suggestions and a list of what I'm packing myself. Please don't substitute my judgment for your own, but if this guide helps you lighten your load, I'm happy to offer it. Most of what you pack will fall into one of three categories: clothing, personal items (e.g. toiletries, journal), and cameras or electronics. You might want to also read Sarah's Packing Suggestions, from a Woman's Perspective before you pack.
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Clothing
It's easy to over-pack clothes for this trip, but it's also easy to pack right if you have a plan for shore clothing, ship clothing, and doing laundry.
Shore Clothing: The weather outside won't be as cold as you might think.
In the Falklands, the average daily temperature range in January is 50 to 71°F (10 to 22°C). In South Georgia it's 30 to 36°F (minus 1 to 2°C) and at Palmer Station (about as far South as we'll go on the Antarctic Peninsula) it's 29 to 35°F (-2 to 2°C). It won't get much colder than that and if it does, it won't last long. But while temperature is stable, wind, moisture and our activity level won't be. They'll be dynamic and will sometimes change significantly in just a few minutes. Wind varies but you should always be prepared for a strong breeze. Moisture will come from falling rain and snow (infrequent) and from getting splashed on zodiac rides (frequent and guaranteed). As for activity, hiking and climbing will generate a lot of body heat regardless of temperature. Accordingly outdoor gear should be flexible enough for an uphill hike on a calm, dry 70°F day (i.e., the Falklands early in our trip), a splashing 25-minute zodiac ride in a 25 mph wind on a 25°F day and all points in between.
So what does this mean for shore clothing selection? If your gear can handle the wind and the wet, the cold will take care of itself. When you're too warm, clothing should be light enough to shed and be carried easily. Layering the right clothes is key.
Specific recommendations are below, but here is my advice in a nutshell:
- Outer layer shell jacket and pants are your primary defense against moisture. Warmth isn't a primary factor here but moisture resistance, durability and breathability are. Shell gear should be durable enough to handle scrapes against rocks, dirt and occasional sharp edges. It should be breathable enough to wear on a long hike and light enough to stow and carry when not being worn. In my experience parkas and insulated jackets are a poor choice for this trip. They are frequently too warm, hard to carry and may impair mobility or balance on a moving zodiac or when traveling over rough terrain.
- Mid-layer shirt and pants are the best way to regulate warmth. This is the layer you'll add or shed most frequently so choose items that are easy to put on, take off, stow and carry. Comfort, convenience and weight are more important than color and style since your mid-layer is either hidden under your shell or stowed away in your pack. If you pick the right pieces you won't need to pack more than one mid-layer top and bottom for shore wear.
- Base-layer (long underwear) gets worn on every landing. Like the mid-layer it provides warmth, but unlike the mid-layer it's awkward to remove when you're too warm. Given the temperatures and activity levels we'll see I'd suggest middle weights. The right base-layer should also wick perspiration away from the body during vigorous activity so cotton is a very poor choice here. Long underwear gets a lot of work on this trip but if you're willing to do some rinsing out, two sets are plenty.
- Last but definitely not least, boots are the one piece of gear that absolutely needs to be right. On every trip, bad boots are the most troublesome piece of gear. They should be at least 15 inches high, dry, comfortable for long hikes across rough terrain, and warm.
If you are shopping for new shore clothing, make sure the pieces all work together. For example, does the base-layer and mid-layer combine to be warm enough (or even too warm)? Does shell gear still fit when wearing a full set of base and mid-layer clothes? Do boots fit comfortably when wearing the socks, base-layer and mid-layer pieces? Do shell pant legs fit over boots (important when landing in water higher than your boots)? When taking off mid-layer pieces, do they try to take long underwear with them? That last one is awkward to learn on a hike with 80 new friends!
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Ship Clothing: The climate inside is very comfortable
For shipboard wear, bring casual clothes that provide some warm and can layer. It's also good to keep a fleece, sweater or light jacket with you when moving around the ship. This will come in handy if you catch a draft in common areas when people are going to/from the outside deck and also if you want to run out on the deck for a wildlife sighting.
A good pair of shipboard shoes is also important. These should be comfortable but they should be chosen with several other conditions in mind. First and foremost, they should be secure on your feet. You don't want floppy sandals if the ship is in rough seas, when you're climbing stairs or stepping over bulkhead doors. You may also wear these outside on the metal deck, so good gripping soles are also important. Finally, there's the Wet Room (this is the staging area near the gangway where people prepare to go to and from shore) - the floor in this area can be wet. For going to and from the Wet Room you'll want shoes that have water-resistant soles, are skid-resistant, and are easy to put on and take off.
Laundry: A plan can significantly lighten your luggage
The more laundry you're willing to do (or pay for) the fewer clothes you have to pack. You've got to work hard to sweat in the cool, dry air so most people wear clothes several times between washings. The ship's laundry fees are nominal and are the same whether you launder one item or 10. Turnaround time is 1 to 2 days so if you put something in Monday morning it will usually be back by Tuesday or (rarely) Wednesday afternoon. There are no self-service laundry facilities so any laundry you do yourself will be in your cabin sink or shower. One easy recommendation: leave "Dry Clean Only" stuff at home.
My laundry plan is:
- Shell gear - If I get mud or guano on my shell (and I will) the crew can hose me off on the deck outside the Wet Room.
- Mid-layer clothes, long underwear, wool socks and glove liners - I'll wash myself and hang dry as needed. Since these items rinse easy and dry fast I don't mind doing them myself. In a pinch I'll send base-layer and socks to the ship's laundry.
- Casual (indoor) clothes - I'll send these to the ship's laundry.
Here's a laundry trick that I learned on my first trip. Rinsing stuff in the sink or shower is okay, but you'll get soaked doing it in rough seas. To get a good wash and conserve fresh water (remember the ship has to make its own) use a 2-gallon Zip-Loc freezer bag. Put a couple of inches of water in the bag, add detergent (I prefer powdered detergent since liquid has a reputation of exploding in my suitcase) and put in one large or several small pieces of clothing. Squeeze the air out of the bag and seal. Knead the clothes through the bag for 1 to 2 minutes to work the water and detergent through. Remove clothes and wring out. Repeat with fresh water to rinse or just rinse while you shower. Wring the rinsed item out (or roll up in a towel to blot excess water) and hang to air dry. Each "load" takes 5-8 minutes. Between the dry air and warm ship interior, most items washed this way will dry overnight.
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My Clothes Packing List
A seasoned traveler once told me the best way to make sure you've got clothing right is to run a layer check "from inside out and head to foot."
| Category | Recommended | My Choice | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Base Layer (Long Underwear) |
Two pairs mid-weight long underwear | Mid-weight long underwear (Patagonia) | I find midweight Capilene warm enough for even the coldest parts of the trip and in the Falklands I wear it under shell pants with no mid layer at all. It can pick up and hold a smell but will do fine if you rinse it out regularly and let it air dry. I've had mine for three trips and it's still "funk" free. There are also soft Merino wool undergarments that are very warm, but a bit pricey. Capilene vs. wool: Capilene is lighter, less costly, more durable, dries quicker, and offers decent warmth and stink control. Merino wool is generally more comfortable, offers superior odor control, and wicks better (naturally). It is also a natural material, but one which some may cause some to have an allergic reaction. |
| Mid Layer | 1 close fitting long-sleeve mid-layer top | Powerstretch half-zip shirt (Mountain Hardwear) | I like a close-fitting middle layer on shore. If the weather's cold and you keep it on it won't pull or bunch up under your jacket. If the weather's good and you take it off it takes up less space in your pack. |
| 1 loose fitting long-sleeve mid-layer top | Polartech fleece zip pullover (Patagonia) | This is my "on the boat" warmth. It's loose enough to be comfortable in the heated indoors and warm enough to go out on the windy deck. It's also a back-up for my on-shore mid-layer. | |
| 1 close fitting mid-layer pants | Powerstretch pants (Marmot) | I start using these about half-way through South Georgia and after that I wear them on all landings. | |
| Outer Layer | 1 non-insulated shell jacket | Breathable shell jacket (Mountain Hardwear) | The essentials: waterproof, windproof, breathable (such as Gortex) and tough enough to take some scrubbing and scraping. The nice-to-haves: zip-vents for when it gets warm, lots of pockets (at least one waterproof) and a hood for when it gets wet or windy. My jacket front pockets are big enough to hold a camera lens and a small zippered pocket on the arm holds sunscreen and lip balm. Important! Make sure this jacket is large enough to fit over all your layers. |
| 1 shell pant | Unlined shell pants (Marmot) | Same essentials as the shell jacket. I think this is the second-most important piece of gear. These will take a lot of abuse since you'll wear them on every landing, so choose with care. Inexpensive rain pants will work but they usually are not breathable and the crotch tends to split open after heavy use. Important! These pants should fit over your boots. | |
| Feet | 1 pair waterproof boots | Fieldmaster All Terrain Sport Boots (Muck Boots) | The most consistently cursed piece of gear on this trip is poorly chosen boots. If one thing absolutely has to be right, this is it. They should fit well, be comfortable for walking several miles, and be at least 15 inches tall for wet landings. They should also be warm (on a long zodiac cruise the only thing between your feet and the freezing ocean is a metal floor and your boots). If you don't know where to start, I suggest the Cheeseman-recommended Muck Boots. The all-terrain styles are fine (extreme cold styles are overkill). Shop early and try on many styles using the socks you'll be wearing on the trip. Once you've selected a pair break them in thoroughly before the trip (I do all my Christmas shopping in mine). An insole usually adds comfort support, and a bit of warmth. As a hint, my Muck Boots felt a little loose around my ankles so I added a pair of Velcro ankle supports and felt like I had great footing at all times. Read more about Cheesemans' boot recommendations. |
| 5 pairs wool hiking socks | Hiking socks (Smartwool) | When you're cold, wet, and tired nothing picks you up like fresh, clean, dry socks - so I pack plenty. I prefer hiking socks because they have extra padding but are not too hot. If you're given to sweaty feet you may also want to add some sock liners. | |
| 1 pair deck shoes | Keen brand sandals | Keen brand sandals meet all my criteria. They're secure (with an elastic cord to tighten or loosen fit) and have extra toe protection. They have grippy soles, can handle a wet floor, and are easy to put on and take off in the wet room. They also don't take up much space in the suitcase! | |
| 1 pair comfortable hiking or walking shoes | Hiking shoes | You do not need to bring your heavy-duty hiking boots - a pair of mid-duty light hikers or walking shoes are better suited, take up less room, and can be worn comfortably around the ship. These will come in handy for any pre- or post-trip excursions. I'll also wear these on the plane. | |
| Head and Neck | Warm, wind-proof hat | Dome Perignon hat (Mountain Hardware) | Your head gives off a lot of heat so a hat should be warm and windproof for when you're cold and easy to take off or carry when you're warm. I like a dome hat with ear flaps because it fits under my jacket hood and won't interfere with picture-taking. |
| Shade hat | Regular baseball cap | In a pinch, I can wear this under my dome hat to add sun shading. However, I won't win any glamor awards. | |
| Neck warmer | Fleece neck gaiter (Mountain Hardware) | I like a neck gaiter because it takes up less space than a scarf. I can also pull this up to cover my mouth and nose, if needed. | |
| Hands | 1 pair mittens with warm liners; 2 pair thin, seamless glove liners; 1 pair mid-weight gloves; |
Elevation Gloves (Mountain Hardware) - Gore-Tex outer shell with removable inner gloves, Windstopper mid-weight gloves (Outdoor Research) |
I like using layers on my hands also! I use water- and wind-resistant mittens that come with a Gore-Tex outer layer and removable warm inner layer. Mine have rubberized palms for added protection. I also bring very thin but warm glove liners (I like these to be seamless and thin enough to manipulate camera buttons) and another mid-weight wind-proof glove. I mix and match all these layers to suit any condition. I wear my thin glove liners almost every day (so I bring two pair!) as a base layer so I can take off the mittens and still have some protection when taking photos. On warmer days (such as in the Falklands), I wear my mid-weight glove under my Gore-Tex outer mitten (without the warm inner layer), then I can take off the outer mittens when needed. I prefer mittens since they keep my hands warmer, and I can always remove the outer mitten while still wearing my glove liners to use my fingers. Some people like to use heavy rubber gloves, but I don't like them because they do not provide warmth. If you would like to try these, I would just wear them with a thin glove liner during zodiac rides to keep your hands dry, then switch to a proper glove system designed to keep your hands warm once you reach shore. You can find oversized rubber coated work gloves at hardware stores such as Home Depot or Lowes. |
| 1 pair windproof glomitts | Magic Mitts (Outdoor Research) | Glomitts are mittens on which the tops can be pulled back and secured to free up your fingers and thumbs. They're warm but still let you get hands free quickly for taking pictures. I love having these for photography on deck. Some stores sell thick, insulated glomitts for hunting, but I found the windproof fleece ones are fine. | |
| Casual Wear | 2-3 pairs of casual pants and 4 casual shirts | I'll wear one of each on the trip to and from Ushuaia. For shirts I'm just bringing t-shirts. | |
| Underwear | 1 week worth | With the ship's laundry turnaround time this should be plenty. | |
| Laundry Kit | Woolite, six 2-gallon Zip-Loc bags, 12 clothes pins, suction cup hooks, small scrubbing brush | I recommend using Zip-Loc bags for washing clothes. The best place to hang clothes to dry is in the hallway outside your cabin, but space on the hand rails fills up pretty quickly. You can use the suction cup hooks to create hanging space on the walls. Clothes pins secures clothes on the hangars or rails even when seas are rough. The scrubbing brush is good for getting tough mud and guano spots off your clothes and boots. It's also very helpful prior to landing at South Georgia when all gear going ashore must be cleaned to remove foreign plant matter. | |
| Optional Clothes | 1 bathing suit, one pair of hiking shorts | The bathing suit is for the hot pools on Deception Island. The shorts are for aboard ship. | |
| Optional Gear | Velcro straps, Chemical warming packs, Trekking poles | These aren't really clothes, but they fall into the category of shore gear. Shell pants over boot tops will keep your feet dry on most landings. However, if we're going ashore in high water I'll wrap 18 inch Velcro straps over my shell pants and boots just above the ankle to help keep water out. Disposable chemical warming packs (like Heat Treat brand) go inside socks and gloves to provide extra warmth. Some people find them helpful during zodiac cruises when we're outside but stationary for extended periods. People with cold-sensitive hands and feet may also want to try them for longer, colder landings. Trekking poles are telescoping aluminum walking sticks that can enhance balance and reduce joint and muscle stress when climbing or hiking. I've not used them but many on the trip have and swear by them. If you aren't a strong hiker or steady climber or if you worry about balance on uneven surfaces I'd strongly suggest investigating them. One thing to consider: long, pointed sticks can be awkward and dangerous when getting in and out of zodiacs. Please try to stick with collapsible trekking poles. |
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Some Notes on Packing
Even if you pack light by weight, you still have to manage volume. Cold weather clothing is bulky and boots, tripods, toiletries and other odd shaped items can be a challenge to pack economically. Here are some hints to make packing easier.
- Trial pack your suitcase several times well in advance of departure. This allows you to find the packing scheme, weight and volume that is most comfortable for you. I try to have my checked bag packed and closed by December 20 so I don't have to worry about it over the holidays. After several trips I've found it's time well invested.
- I'm a big fan of Space Bags (available at Target, Wal-Marts and most home stores). You pack clothes into these zip-loc style bags and then compress them by removing the air through a one-way valve with a vacuum cleaner. The resulting package is semi-rigid, fits cleanly in a suitcase and is only a quarter to a third as thick as the uncompressed clothing. It frees up space and significantly speeds up packing, unpacking and repacking since you're handling one compressed bag instead of multiple pieces of clothing. "Regular" Space Bags require a vacuum cleaner to compress while smaller "Travel" bags compress by rolling and require no vacuum cleaner. If you use the vacuum-style, the ship should have vacuum cleaners available when you're ready to recompress your gear at the end of the trip. If you use Space Bags I suggest listing the contents of each bag on a separate piece of paper. Seal each list in its bag when you do your final packing and leave it there after unpacking aboard the ship. Repacking at the end of the trip is usually done in the few hours between leaving the Drake Passage and beginning the final night's festivities. It's pretty rushed and the lists will make it easier to remember what goes where.
- Remember you'll be checking, claiming or transporting your luggage through at least three airports on this trip. Luggage carts are usually plentiful, but there's still a lot of hauling. One large checked bag is easier to manage than two unless the one bag is excessively heavy. An overweight checked bag is not only harder to manage but will mean overweight bag charges and waiting in line to pay them. The weight limit in Argentina (20 kg or 45 lbs) is quite a bit lower than the US limits. If your checked bag is a few pounds over, it may be worthwhile to lighten the load. If your checked bag is over 55 pounds you should probably distribute it over two checked bags. If a couple traveling together has more than 90 pounds of checked baggage they're most likely bringing too much stuff.
- It may be cold at home and it is cold in Antarctica, but we pass through Argentina where it's summertime. Airports, busses, and airplanes on the tarmac can be quite warm in Buenos Aires. Ushuaia sits between mountains and water so it's fairly mild but can get chilly (expect 50 to 70°F). I travel wearing a tee shirt, cargo pants and a light jacket and I've never been too hot or too cold in Buenos Aires.
- After the long flights and baggage hauling I'm ready for a change of clothes in Ushuaia. When packing for departure I hold out one pair of jeans, one shipboard shirt and a change of socks and underwear. These I compress in a travel-style (no vacuum) Space Bag and put in an easily accessible place in my checked bag along with my travel toiletries kit. When we reach the Hotel Albatros in Ushuaia there's no need to dig through bags. I just pull out the toiletries and clean clothes, clean up, recompress the old travel clothes and it's off to explore Ushuaia.
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Personal and Miscellaneous Items
These are the things to keep you well-maintained during almost a month away from civilization. Our ship has a gift shop where you can get some necessities, but selection is very limited. I'd rather bring my own and be sure I have what I need.
| Category | My Choice | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Small tote with shoulder strap | Call it a man-purse if you like, but it’s critical safety equipment. On the open sea, and especially in the Drake Passage, waves move the ship in ways we don’t anticipate. If we’re walking through the ship with a snack, water bottle, or book in our hands then our hands aren’t free to catch us when we lose balance. Even when the ship is stable things in our hands (especially cameras and computers) can distract us, leading to an accident. Any sudden impact with steel hurts a lot! Don’t let an accident mar a once-in-a-lifetime adventure. | |
| Prescriptions | I don't have any prescriptions, but I will bring vitamins. This is pretty obvious, but you'll want to have it on your checklist to make sure. Bring enough for the trip duration plus a few days extra in case of a flight delay. Remember to pack these in one of your carry-on bags. | |
| Seasickness Kit | Scopolamine patches, Relief Band (with gel and spare battery), Bonine, Sudafed | I only got seasick on the mornings after the first night of open sea passages. After that Scopolamine has taken care of me. My strategy is to apply half a patch 3 to 5 hours before heading into open sea. If I get queasy during an unexpected stretch I'll take a Bonine to relieve the nausea and a Sudafed to offset the drowsiness of the Bonine. If it's really bad I'll put on the Relief Band. It feels weird, but it seems to help. Read the Cheesemans' seasick recommendations. |
| Nonperishable Comfort Food | Granola bars | If you do get seasick you won't feel like eating for a while, but you'll get back on solid food faster if it's something you like. This is also good for a midnight snack or if you wind up skipping a meal. Just remember that eating on shore is taboo most places so you'll want to keep it on the ship. |
| Over-the-Counter Medicines | Pepto Bismol tablets, cough syrup, aspirin, vitamins, Band-Aids, Neosporin, Alka-Seltzer Cold Medicine | If a cold makes the rounds on board you'll want some of your preferred remedies. I won't pack full packages of anything, but a few of each in a little aid kit is very convenient. |
| 3-4 handkerchiefs or bandanas | Nobody wants to see used tissues blowing around a penguin colony and the easiet way to prevent that is not to bring tissues ashore. I'll actually carry three on shore: one for sniffles, one for wiping camera lenses and one for cleaning my glasses. | |
| Sunscreen | SPF 30 lotion, Sun Sticks, and lipbalm with sunscreen | The lotion goes on before I leave the cabin. The sun sticks (sunscreen applied like a stick antiperspirant) stays in my shell jacket zip pocket for non-gooey touch ups on shore. |
| Skin Care | Moisturizing lotion, Chap Sticks, Tinactin or foot powder, razor, blades, shaving cream, and antiperspirant | Antarctica is dry and windy with a lot of UV, so your skin will appreciate some extra care. You'll also be spending a lot of time in wool socks and insulated boots, so if you have sweaty feet it's worth it to give them some extra attention. |
| Hair Care | Shampoo and hair brush | I don't have much hair, so I keep it simple. I'll also get a haircut a few days before the trip. |
| Eye Care | Glasses and sunglasses (regular and spare pairs of each), lanyards for glasses, cleaners for glasses | There's not much way to repair lost or broken glasses, so you'll want spares. Lanyards are good insurance to keep them from getting lost. I'll bring a couple of microfiber cloths for cleaning. |
| Dental Care | New toothbrush, toothpaste, floss. | |
| Nail Care | Nail trimming kit with clippers, scissors and file. | |
| Misc. Items | Journal, pen, $600 cash or travelers' checks, travel wallet, power converter. Read your itinerary for information on the ship's power system. |
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Camera, Optics, and Electronics
Note: This section is for point-and-shoot camera users who may be thinking about buying a digital single lens reflex (SLR) for the trip. What follows is based on what I've learned and would suggest for point-and-shooters who may be thinking about upgrading.
Prior to my first trip I decided I wanted more photo options than my old point-and-shoot camera delivered so I invested in a consumer digital SLR camera (a Canon Digital Rebel). Early in the trip I found four fellow passengers had done the same thing. Since then prices have come down and last year over a third of the passengers were using relatively new digital SLRs. That's not to say an SLR camera is a requirement for this trip. I've seen stunning pictures taken with digital point-and-shoot cameras and I'll have one myself for hikes when I want to travel light. However, if you're thinking about trying SLR photography this is a great trip to do it. The subjects are amazing, there's lots of light and there's plenty of expert advice to help you learn. I took a lot of very forgettable pictures but there were enough keepers to make it worthwhile. That said, a few well-selected pieces of gear and some time spent learning generally yield better results than a camera pack stuffed with everything. If you're just starting out or are still relatively new to SLR photography I strongly recommend reading Understanding Exposure by Bryan Peterson. It's a quick read and is the best introduction to photography that I've ever read. It explains concepts like focal length and aperture with examples to aid practical understanding. In addition to helping you take better pictures it will help you make much better decisions about what gear to bring.
When I got my camera I was concerned with three things: getting the right equipment, getting the right accessories (without going broke) and storing/managing all the digital pictures I was going to be taking on the trip.
Equipment
For my system I went with Canon's Digital Rebel body and Canon lenses because they seemed to be the best value in my price range. Some folks prefer Nikon or other brands. I can't speak to the differences but some online research or an experienced photographer can help you set up a system in whichever brand you choose. Most experienced photographers will tell you that a budget camera with a good lens will take better pictures than a great camera with a cheap lens. I'd plan for an entry level body (e.g., Canon Digital Rebel or Nikon D60) then look at what lenses make sense for your budget. Below I've suggested Canon equipment for budgets both large and moderate. With a little research you can find close matches for Nikon or other brands.
A telephoto or long zoom lens (up to 200, 300 or 400mm) is the lens people use most frequently on the trip. Image-stabilization increases the lens cost but definitely helps take better pictures with a hand-held telephoto lens, however if you consistantly use a tri-pod, you do not need image-stabilization. The next most-used lens is a wide-angle zoom lens for capturing the tremendous ice, land and seascapes. Image stabilization isn't so important with the less bulky wide-angle lenses. I'd be wary of zoom lenses which try to jam all focal lengths into one lens (e.g. Canon's 28-300 lens). Such lenses will be heavier than you'll want to tote around most of the time. Similarly, super telephoto lenses (400mm or more) will most likely be overkill for a new photographer on this trip. Of course if you'd like to bring one, I'll be happy to try it out! I've used all of the lenses on the list below and have been pleased with each of them.
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Accessories
There are no shortage of gear, gadgets and accessories for a photographer to buy. When considering one I try not to ask myself "Could I possibly use it?" but rather "Do I want to transport it to the bottom of the earth and carry it around for a month?". Two items that are absolutely essential are your camera bag and your dry bag.
Picking the right camera bag is a challenge. For airline flights, you don't want to put camera gear in checked luggage so you'll want a bag large enough to hold all your gear. However larger, heavier camera bags can become a burden during frequent landings, so the bag should also be light enough to carry in the field. It gets more complicated if you bring "professional" lenses (like Canon's white L-series) since these are larger and heavier than consumer lenses. The key is finding a balance between the capacity you want and the weight you can carry. Since I bring spare gear I typically have a heavy bag in the airport but I lighten it for the field by leaving spare stuff in my cabin. Other factors to consider are how comfortable a bag is to carry, how easy or difficult it is to access quickly, and how easy it is to get in and out of a dry bag.
A good dry bag protects your gear during wet zodiak rides to and from shore and will actually survive a dunk in the ocean. Some people count on just their camera bag for water protection or they try wrapping their camera bag in a plastic trash bag, but I strongly discourage either approach. One good splash of saltwater can wreck a camera. We can expect more than one splash on the zodiacs and most camera bags just can't withstand that. Trash bags are better than nothing but they always get shredded quickly and inevitably leave fragments that animals or other visitors will have to deal with. Good dry bags aren't expensive so if you've spent the money for a digital SLR a good dry bag is the best protection you can buy for it. Read more about Cheesemans' dry bag recommendations.
While the camera bag and dry bag are no-brainers some other accessories are very highly recommended: lens hoods, a sturdy tripod, spare battery, spare memory cards, and cleaning supplies. Beyond that, I think things start to get questionable.
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Image Storage
On my first trip, I took just under 5,100 pictures (equal to about 150 rolls of film). At 11 MB per picture it was about 56 gigabytes (GB) worth of whales, icebergs, and albatrosses. Newer cameras take even larger pictures so you'll either need a wad of cash for memory cards or a device to store your pictures other than the camera memory cards. If you bring a laptop, you can store images on the laptop hard drive or on an auxiliary hard drive. Some folks have also had good luck with "tanks" (e.g. Wolverine FlashPac, Digital Foci Photo Safe) that read memory cards and store the pictures directly onto an internal hard drive.
When it comes time to buy, it pays to be selective. I've bought from local merchants when I needed hands-on guidance but I've also had excellent experiences with B&H Photo and Video in New York and Amazon.com. It pays to shop around, but be careful. Many online camera shops are notorious for shoddy business practices or poor service. In general, if it seems too good to be true it probably is.
You also might want to read Digital Photograph Storage Recommendations from Doug Cheeseman.
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My Packing List
| Category | Recommended | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Camera body and spare body | Suggested: 2 Canon Digital Rebels. Many retailers offer a bundle which includes the Rebel XT, a memory card and a wide-angle zoom lens (usually 18-55mm). 8 mega pixel resolution can produce A3 prints (11.7 x 16.5 inches) and larger. I used the lower-resolution original Digital Rebel in 2003/04 and had excellent results at 10x15 inches. | If your camera gets damaged, the rest of your camera bag might as well be a boat anchor so it pays to be careful and/or bring a spare. Two bodies may seem a bit much, but you can stretch the budget: Buy your first body as a bundle (with lens and/or memory card) but for the backup buy just the body. With the backup, leave everything except the body in its original box and wrapping. During the trip leave the backup in its plastic wrapping safely in your cabin. Use the spare if you must. When you get home, put the spare body back in the box and sell it on EBay. You may lose 10-15% on the sale, but that's still pretty cheap insurance. I've also had good luck with used equipment purchased from B&H Photo in New York. By the way, on my first trip my spare Rebel body never made it to EBay. Early in the cruise one of my shipmates had an accident with his Canon. He didn't have a backup but he was very happy to buy mine! |
| Lens: Telephoto | Top of the Line: Canon 70-200 2.8L IS or Canon 100-400 4.0-5.6L IS Moderate: Canon EF 70-300mm f/4.0-5.6 EF IS On a budget: Canon EF 100-300mm f/4.5-5.6 USM |
This lens zooms in on distant subjects (25 feet and beyond). Regardless of how much you spend on lenses, your long zoom lens will almost certainly be your most heavily used. In addition to lens quality and price you'll also want to consider how much the lens weights since you'll be carrying it a lot. Pictures taken through zoom lenses will tend to blur unless the camera is held very still or mounted on a tripod. Image Stabilization (IS) technology helps reduce the "shakes" by compensating for minute movements while the picture is being taken. However, any long lens will still benefit from a good tripod when image stabilization is not needed. |
| Lens: Portrait | Suggested: Tamron AF 28-75mm f/2.8 XR Di Moderate: Canon EF 28-105mm f/3.5-4.5 |
This is for subjects that you can approach to 15 ft / 4.5 m (e.g., seals and some seabirds). For this trip, I think a lens in this range is nice but not essential. Birds are small enough that they're usually best photographed with a telephoto zoom lens. A wide-angle lens works better for landscapes and can serve for seals and people. If I were starting out now, I'd probably omit this lens and use the funds for a better telephoto lens. That said, I've used both the lenses listed. The Tamron takes better pictures but the Canon is more flexible due to longer range. The Tamron is about $125 more but includes a lens hood (about $25 extra for the Canon). |
| Lens: Wide-Angle | Suggested: Canon EF-S 18-55 f3.5/5.6 (effective focal range 18-55mm) | This lens is for landscapes, seascapes and general wide angle use. Because of magnification issue there are few lenses that will take a super-wide angle shot on the Digital Rebel but this one will. I've used this lens a lot and have been pleased with the results. There are other lenses which are nicer but will cost quite a bit more and may not give as wide an angle of view. I'd save on this lens by getting it in a bundle and, again, put the funds toward a better telephoto lens. |
| Lens Filters | Suggested: UV-Haze and Circular Polarizing | UV filters are a cheap barrier between the business end of your lens and the cruel forces of nature. They also reduce UV distortion in your picture. Circular polarizing filters, when turned correctly, polarize the light coming through the lens and reduce the glare in your picture. Also, if your lens is perpendicular to the sun when you take your picture, the sky in your picture will be much bluer than it appears to the naked eye. |
| Lens Accessories | Suggested: Spare lens caps, lens cap leashes, lens hoods, cleaning supplies. | Lens caps are essential and I suggest a spare cap for each lens. Lens cap leashes tether the lens cap to the barrel of the lens so you don't lose them. Lens hoods keep glare and precipitation off the front of your lens and are very highly recommended. Consult your local camera store for the best supplies/methods for cleaning lenses. |
| Memory Cards | Suggested: : 4-8 GB of total memory | A 1GB memory card will hold about 200+ high resolution JPEG images. The larger the memory card, the lower the cost per GB. However, while one 4GB card is cheaper than two 2GB cards, two 2GB cards mean you can have a card fail and still be able to shoot. I'll probably bring one 4GB and two 2GB cards. You may need more cards if you do not plan to bring an external photo storage device. |
| Camera Strap | Suggested: One that's comfortable for you | You'll get one with the camera, but a padded, comfortable strap is worth the extra investment. |
| Batteries | Suggested: Three batteries | You won't be using much flash so battery life isn't a problem. Three batteries allow you to have one in the camera, a charged spare in your bag, and one in the charger in your cabin. |
| Battery Charger | Suggested: One charger | Keep up a rotation with your batteries and one charger is plenty. |
| Power Converter | Read your itinerary for information on the ship's power system and whether you will need power converters and/or plug adapters. | |
| Tripod and head | Tripod tastes are pretty subjective. | Your tripod will hold your camera steady and may also act as a liaison between you and grumpy fur seals. It may also become a walking stick so you want one that's beefy enough for the job. Tripod heads can be plain or fancy, ball-headed, pistol-gripped, self-leveling, cheap or expensive. You'll want one sturdy enough to hold your camera and largest lens and a way to mount and dismount the camera quickly (usually via hardware that screws to the camera and mounts on the tripod head via a quick-release). Beyond that, find one that feels right for you. Photo.net has good information that you can use to make a decision. |
| Camera Bag | Suggested: Camera backpack that fits your gear and body | I use a Tenba camera backpack because it holds all my stuff. I may also bring a smaller Lowepro bag that holds a body and one or two lenses with extra space if I need to shed a layer of clothes. |
| Dry Bag | Suggested: Heavy duty bag that easily accommodates your camera bag | Good dry bags have a top that folds over multiple times and then buckles shut. They’ll be left on sand and rocks so sturdy material is essential. We pack quickly in bad weather so the bag should be big enough to easily insert gear. When in doubt a little too big is better than a little too small. Read more about Cheesemans' dry bag recommendations. |
| Offline Storage System for Pictures | I'm bringing a notebook computer with an extra portable hard drive that plugs into the USB connector on my laptop. | |
| Binoculars | I use a pair of 10x40 roof prism binoculars that I like very much. Read the Cheesemans' binoculars recommendations. |
Digital SLRs have opened up photography to many of us who lacked the time or resources to learn film. However, the drive to photograph can alter our behavior in ways we don't expect or even notice. Aspiring wildlife photographers generally have a much better experience if they watch out for the following behaviors.
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Beware of these Photographer's Behaviors
Overweight bag syndrome. A camera bag stuffed with extraneous gear is expensive and uncomfortable to carry. Where we're going it can also be a hazard to your health. Excess weight can impair our balance on the wet, rocky, slick or muddy surfaces we'll encounter. If we lose balance a heavy, awkwardly carried bag can cause us to fall in unnatural ways, potentially turning a minor slip into a real injury. I suggest the following test: take your camera bag and load it as you'd expect it to be loaded on a landing in Antarctica. Now raise it up and hold it straight out at arms length. If you can keep it there for 25 seconds or more you're probably in good shape with your gear. If you can only hold it for 15-20 seconds you may want to think about lightening or redistributing the load. If you're under 15 seconds there's a good chance you're carrying too much.
Antagonizing wildlife. The Southern Ocean offers many amazing opportunities to see wildlife that doesn't automatically flee from humans. However, there's still such a thing as too close. Almost none of the species we'll see live on land; they're simply there out of biological necessity. If a creature changes its actions or demeanor in response to us then we're too close. Since we're the visitors it's always our responsibility to move away. Unfortunately disruptive behavior is easy to spot in other people but difficult to spot in ourselves and almost impossible to see when we're looking through a camera. No matter what we're doing we should frequently stop and look around to make sure we're not disrupting our hosts' environment. In a similar vein, some photographers have a compulsion to capture extreme close-up pictures of animals by using a wide angle lens at very close range. Approaching animals this way is always considered bad behavior and anyone doing it risks the scorn of all around them.
Antagonizing other photographers. It's guaranteed to happen to you at least once: we take a picture that's perfect in every way except for a fellow traveler who walked right into the middle of it! We can fuss if we want, but somewhere on the boat somebody else has a picture that's almost perfect except for us! As we watch out for the wildlife we should also watch for other photographers so they can get their pictures, too. Conversely, if we're taking pictures it's good to look up to see if anyone is waiting pass in front of us. If they are we can wave them through and then return to our work.
Crowding. There are usually questions about position (i.e., if there's a good spot to photograph or observe something, who gets that spot?). Typically the first person to a spot gets it for as long as they like, but there are some exceptions. Some vantage points are restricted and staff will rotate people through so everyone gets a chance to see. We'll also land at some very photogenic sites and people will want to photograph the landscape before others are wandering through it. In that case it's courteous to get on one of the early-landing zodiacs, take photographs promptly and then step back so others can photograph, too. Those are the exceptions. Otherwise, if someone has gone out of their way to find something interesting the spot they're in is theirs for as long as they'd like to keep it. The same applies to the ship's decks. Some people will spend hours on deck staring at empty seas watching for whales, dolphins and seabirds. When those creatures do appear don't be surprised if the watchers want to stay in their good spots. Finally, whether on land or sea, if you've found a good spot it's always nice to share.
Digital fixation. We can spend a lot of field time reviewing pictures on the camera's screen. However, if we're looking at the back of our camera we're missing what's in front of it (which is the whole reason for the trip). Digital photos are often hard to judge on a small screen. Some pictures that look bad on the screen can turn out to be excellent with cropping. Either way, we only have a few weeks to take pictures and the rest of our lives to pore over them - save some fun for back home. On a related note, digital cameras allow us to spend all day taking pictures and then spend all night looking through them. That's not always a good thing on a trip like this. Some of the most interesting wildlife we'll encounter will be the people we're traveling with! You can find them at night in their natural habitats: the spacious observation lounge, the comfortable "Polar Bar" or the cozy 5th deck library. I've made great friends on every trip that I'm still in contact with. Even if I never see another penguin, those folks are the part of the trip that never ends. Please be sure digital photography doesn't cause you to miss out on that.
Updated in January 2012
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