Introduction
I have had the privilege of visiting both polar regions. Maybe it was the time of year, but I found that I felt much colder in Northern Alaska than in Antarctica. If you're from Minnesota or Northern Europe, you've definitely seen worse than you will see on this trip.
There are serious reasons not to over-pack such as space in your cabin and the fact that airlines now charge extra for bags and weight. But you also want to stay as warm as possible so that you can freely enjoy this awesome experience. I think Craig's Packing List is very good, but it's also nice to have multiple points of view, so I wrote my own and included hints from other female travelers. It's fabulous if you can go out to some Ritzy outdoor store and spend $2,000 on gear, but that wasn't an option for me, so I put together gear from friends, family, and my own closet.
I find that most women need an extra layer or two over men. Some women brought too much clothing. On the other hand, those that picked from the other suggested packing lists were a bit chilly. It is best to spend your money on good quality waterproof pants, gloves, and socks. If your feet and hands get cold you'll be forced to go back to the ship, so the longer you can keep these extremities warm, the happier you'll be. It's important to make sure that all your layers fit together: the outer layers should be slightly big.
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The Coldest vs. the Warmest Day Onshore
The Coldest Day
The day that I felt the coldest was actually in South Georgia. We did a before breakfast landing, and I chose to stay out all day and skip lunch. All morning it was windy and cold, and I was sitting very still so that penguins would come close to me so I could get good photos. If I had been walking around, I would have been fine, but the longer I sat, the colder I got, and the closer the penguins got until one of them actually bumped into me! Also, on the Antarctic peninsula, we had several very cold days when cruising in the Zodiacs. Zodiac cruising can be chilly due to the wind-chill factor plus you are not moving around. On colder days I wore:
| Place | Layer | Brand | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bottom | Base Layer | Army surplus store | Low-cost thin silk long underwear. I like silk because it's really thin and if you hand-wash it at night it dries by the next day. |
| Base Layer 2 | North Face | Bamboo thin long underwear, eco-friendly, smell resistant and warm... who could ask for more? | |
| Mid-base Layer | Hot Chilis | Fleece long underwear, I love these thin fuzzy pants. | |
| Mid Layer | REI | Hiking pants from the clearance rack, one size too big so that they fit over the other layers. | |
| Outer Layer | Mountain Hardware | Unlined, side-zippered shell pants made of Gore-Tex. The zippers came in handy on warmer days. | |
| Top | Base Layer | North Face | Bamboo long underwear. |
| Mid-base Layer | Nike | "Extreme cold" top. | |
| Outer-base Layer | Mountain Hardware | Another loose fitting synthetic top that I have. | |
| Mid Layer | Fleece vest, down jacket, thick polar fleece, or down sweater. Down never ages, so I found an old down jacket at a thrift store for US$4. If I could afford a down "sweater" from Patagonia that's what I'd have. | ||
| Outer Layer | Marmot and Columbia | I brought two different waterproof unlined shell jackets. Any unlined waterproof or Gore-Tex ski jacket will do. | |
| Feet | Socks | Thick hiking socks under thick boot socks. I put a toe warmer between the socks on cold days. | |
| Boots | I borrowed boots from the ship and they were fine. |
The Warmest Day
On warmer days I wore:
| Place | Layer | Brand | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bottom | Base Layer | North Face | Bamboo thin long underwear. |
| Outer Layer | Mountain Hardware | Unlined, side-zippered shell pants made of Gore-Tex. I partially unzipped these for a vent. | |
| Top | Base Layer | Long-sleeve thin synthetic top. | |
| Mid Layer | Thick polar fleece. | ||
| Outer Layer | Marmot or Columbia | Waterproof unlined shell jacket tied around my waist. | |
| Feet | Hiking socks and boots. |
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Other Suggestions
Things I was happy that I brought
- Fuzzy wool or fleece sweater for onboard ship
- Slipper shoes
- Unlined, side-zippered shell pants made of Gore-Tex
- Gel insoles for ship boots
- Hand and foot warmers
- Down jacket
- Hiking boots
- Salty crackers
- Small brush for washing pants and boots
- Clear nail polish
- Hand lotion
- Boot socks
- Travel mug
- Eco-friendly toiletries
- No perfume
- Coffee French press
- Chocolate-covered espresso beans
What to Wear Onboard the Ship
The ship is warm, attire is casual, and there is no need to dress for dinner. The best clothes for onboard the ship are your most comfortable casual clothes such as jeans and a sweater. Anything you wear to shore will smell like penguins, so you should keep two outfits for onboard only. I was most comfortable in jeans and a long sleeved t-shirt over a fuzzy wool sweater. It's also really nice to have comfortable shoes that feel like bedroom slippers. Many women were wearing "Ugs" or shoes with furry linings that kept feet warm and also fit securely while walking on a moving ship. These bulky warm boots take up lots of room in your suitcase and the warmth is not really needed, but bring them if you want. Several people wished they had "Crocs" or waterproof slippers to wear into the wet room to easily change into boots. An old pair of athletic shoes will also do. Some people liked Keen or Teva sandles that have straps to secure them tightly on your feet and a warm sock.
Make your cabin-mates happy and leave your stinky and bulky waterproof jacket, pants, dry bag, and any other wet clothes in the wet room and not in the hall or in the bathroom! The halls must be kept clear in case of an emergency.
Swimsuit
I think that taking the polar plunge is overrated. I've seen several people come out of the water looking blue and miserable. Even in the hot springs on Deception Island the water is relatively cool; I couldn't see getting cold just to say that I had done it, instead I spent some time hiking there. If you really like to swim, you may want a swimsuit for the hotels on the way down and back though.
Waterproof Boots
You certainly do not have to go out and spend $200 on boots for this trip. You can get a perfectly good pair of "Wellies" or other rubber boots from your local hardware or garden supply store. Whatever boots you get, it is very important that they are waterproof and tall (they should come up to just below the knee). People with shorter boots were really miserable and wet. People who tried to use waterproof hiking shoes or kayak shoes ended up trading for ship boots along the way.
Overshoes (waterproofed nylon shoes that slip over your hiking boots) work, but they are bulky, hard to walk in, and rather expensive. If you wear rubber boots and you want your hiking boots on shore, you can always change into them.
Most of our ships (ask us about your ship) loan boots, so you don't need to bring them. If you have extra large or extra small feet you may want to verify that they have your size, but otherwise they usually can accomodate everyone. For people traveling on extensions before or after our expedition, it makes sense to borrow ship boots so you don't have to lug boots around in your luggage.
My recommendation is to borrow ship boots, but bring your own gel shoe insoles and a thick, tall pair of boot socks.
Lotion and Nail Polish
My nails and skin cracked and got chapped from being outside in the dry Antarctic air all day. I was really happy to have my super-duper moisturizer and some clear nail polish to prevent nails from cracking.
Hiking boots
I brought an old beat-up pair of good quality waterproof hiking boots and I was glad I did. I went on all offered hikes on South Georgia and the Falklands, and I was much more comfortable going up and down the steep slopes in my hiking boots rather than my rubber boots. Since my hiking boots were waterproof, I could cross the shallow streams and trapse around in the wet grass without getting wet. However, you must ride the Zodiac in your rubber boots so this meant carrying two pairs of shoes to shore and sterilizing two pairs of shoes upon return, but in my opinion it was well worth it.
Neck Sock
My neck sock was my best friend. It's basically just a fleece tube that slips over your head. You can use it as a scarf, balacava (to pull-up over your face), ear cover, or hat on warmer days. Scarves tend to get caught in zippers, velcro, parts of the zodiac, and are a general pain.
Toilet Kit
I happen to have a bladder the size of an acorn but I still like drinking lots of water, tea, and coffee. The problem is that the bathrooms are back on the ship. Once ahore, I recommend that you use the "drip-dry" method (which means no toilet paper) after you duck behind a rock. If you must have modern conveniences, then make a "Toilet Kit": a large ziplock bag containing a few smaller ziplock bags, toilet paper, feminine products, and hand sanitizer. Use the smaller ziplock bags to store your used toilet paper and dispose it when you get back to the ship. Please keep this beautiful environment pristine - you must not leave anything on shore! On the Antarctic Peninsula, you aren't allowed to relieve yourself on shore at all, so you must return to the ship or lean over the side of a zodiac far from shore. I used the dehydration regimen on the Peninsula - drink lots of water at night and early in the morning so it has time to be processed by your body before going to shore. If you are female, you will need to bring any required feminine products with you as the ship has none of these supplies.
Coffee and Mugs
If you're a coffee addict, you may want to bring your own roast and small French press pot (consider bringing extra coffee, you will be popular!). Coffee is always available on the ship, but I found that it wasn't as strong as I like. All the mugs on the ship look the same, so I really wished that I had brought my own travel mug to rinse out in my room and reuse.
Toiletries
Remember that all drains flow to the sea on a ship. That means anything you put into them is now floating around in the ocean. Please use biodegradable and eco-friendly soaps, shampoos, and beauty products that will not harm ocean ecosystems.
Updated in November 2009
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