Madagascar
Quest for Endemics
October 1 to 24, 2009

This enigmatic and endangered land is home to some of the world's most unusual mammals, birds and chameleons. We provide you with the time and leadership to watch and photograph Madagascar's uniqueness. You will encounter over 20 lemurs and over 150 species of birds on this itinerary with many close-by for great photos. No other Madagascar tour follows our itinerary, including two nights at the beautiful Relais de la Reine, located in the spectacular Isalo Massif, three nights at Vakona, located between Perinet and Mantadia national parks, two nights at the famous Berenty Estates, as well as time in the renowned "spiny forest" at Ifaty, on the coast at Tulear and inland to the Zombitsy Forest. In Raminofana National Park and Ampijiroa Forest Reserve night spotting is fantastic and during the day walking on the forest trails is very rewarding. October is the best time of year for great mating displays and other fascinating wildlife action.

At a Glance

Cost: $7,700 per person, double occupancy. Review cost details.

Leaders: Fraser Gear and Guy Germaine. At each reserve, resident naturalist/guides will also assist. Travel in excellent modern buses from Madagascar Expedition Agency in Antananarivo.

Size: 10, not including leaders.

Conditions: A non-smoking safari for people who are very interested in wildlife (mammals, birds and reptiles) and spending the maximum time in the field.

Update: This itinerary was updated in June 2009.

Synopsis:

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Detailed Itinerary

October 1 - 2, Thursday - Friday Flights to Antananarivo (commonly known as Tana)
We are happy to assist you with booking your own flights to arrive for an overnight on the evening of October 2. See flight information at the end of this itinerary. Upon arrival in Tana, clear customs and meet our very experienced guides, Fraser Gear and Guy Germaine. We'll then drive 45 minutes to central Tana to the Hotel du Louvre.
Lodging: Hotel du Louvre, Tana

October 3, Saturday: Lac Alarobia near Tana
The hotel is located in the very heart of this intriguing city. With the late arrival take time to rest up this morning and enjoy the local setting in the heart of town around the hotel. After lunch there will be time at lovely Lac Alarobia to walk around this small private sanctuary. Lac Alarobia protects large numbers of ducks and egrets and other waterbirds. White-faced Duck and Red-billed Teal will be there, usually accompanied by smaller numbers of Hottentot Teal, Knob-billed and Fulvous ducks and possibly the very rare Meller's Duck. There is a fantastic assortment of egrets that roost or breed in the sanctuary, including a few Madagascar Squacco Herons and Dimorphic Egret. Mascarene Martins are common overhead and in adjacent areas watch for more Madagascar endemics, which may include Madagascar Kestrel, Madagascar Coucal, Madagascar Swift, Madagascar Wagtail, Madagascar White-eye, Madagascar Mannikin and Madagascar Red Fody. We may also locate a chameleon or two. By late in the afternoon large numbers of waterbirds congregate here to roost for the night. We will have Dinner together at the Hotel du Louvre this evening. You will be delighted by the delicious cuisine in Madagascar, a wonderful blend of French, Chinese and Malagasy influences.
Lodging: Hotel du Louvre, Tana

October 4, Sunday: Tsimbazaza Zoo and Museum in Tana
This morning visit the Tsimbazaza Zoo and Museum to see the lemur breeding station and interesting skeletons of the Elephant Bird and extinct giant lemurs. There are also displays of most of Madagascar's unique mammals, birds, and fauna. Birding and photography here can be quite good, the prize sighting being a pair of Madagascar Little Grebes that can usually be found on one of the ponds. You will see a huge, well-preserved egg of Aepyornis, the Elephant Bird, in the museum. This bird stood about 10 to 11 feet and weighed approximately 1000 pounds. Also at the zoo on a little island is a group of Black Lemurs in a wonderful setting. This afternoon take the opportunity back in the vicinity of the Hotel du Louvre to walk areound and immerse in the cultural experience of this amazing town, both very evident in the architecture and the Malagasy people.
Lodging: Hotel du Louvre, Tana

October 5, Monday: Fly to Mahajunga and drive to Ampijoroa
With the present flight schedule on Air Madagascar fly early morning to Mahajunga on the north-west coast of Madagascar for the first leg of our island adventure. After arriving in this sleepy town, drive to Ampijoroa, a forest station situated in the extensive deciduous forests of the Ankarafantsika Reserve. Ampijoroa is famous as the home of World Wildlife Fund's Plough-shear Tortoise captive breeding program and is an ideal base from which to search for the numerous endemic birds of the region. Stop along the way at some of the many picturesque rice paddies and at Lac Amboromalandy for Yellow-billed Stork, Purple, Striated, Common Squacco and Malagasy Pond herons, and flocks of Black Egret, which we will watch as they perform their bizarre "umbrella-feeding" routine. We will enjoy watching striking Madagascar Jacanas strut through lily-covered wetlands past many other waterbirds including Humblot's Heron, Madagascar Little Grebe, African Pygmy Goose and Allen's Gallinule.

On arrival at the forest station, we should encounter numerous "campsite residents", such as Broad-billed Roller, screeching Lesser Vasa Parrots, Crested Drongo, Madagascar Magpie Robin, Sakalava Weaver, Madagascar Hoopoe, Madagascar Paradise Flycatcher, Madagascar Green Pigeon and Madagascar Turtle Dove. We will spend the afternoon birding along the edge of the adjacent Lac Ravelobe, where we hope to find the critically endangered Madagascar Fish Eagle. A pair is resident here. Wintering Sooty and Eleonora's falcons might be seen hunting overhead, White-throated Rails favor the waterside vegetation and we may find Sickle-billed and Blue vangas moving along the forest fringe.

In order to experience the unique wildlife of this remote area, we will be accommodated in comfortable chalets that are newly constructed near Lac Ravelobe, called Gite Ampijoroa. An advantage of lodging here is our proximity to the wildlife with the very active Coquerel's Sifaka and White-breasted Mesite right in the Ampijoroa Forest Station area. Dinners in the evenings with the background sounds of nocturnal lemurs and perhaps Torotoroka Scops Owls are sure to be some of the most memorable of our trip. Ampijoroa is one of the best places for night spotting for nocturnal lemurs.
Camping: Gîte Ampijoroa, Ampijoroa Forest Station

October 6, Tuesday: Ampijoroa Forest Reserve at dawn!
We have a full day to explore the network of trails through the dry forest found here in search of the many mammals, birds and reptiles restricted to this region. No less than eight species of lemurs occur in the vicinity of the camp. You will greatly enjoy observing the enchanting, comical Coquerel's Sifaka, once we locate a family, which often happens when someone spots them right in the trees above the camp. Common Brown Lemur and the rare Mongoose Lemur can be found during the day and Western Avahi (Woolly Lemur), Milne-Edward's Sportive, Fat-tailed Dwarf and Grey Mouse lemurs after dark. If we are lucky, we may find the Golden-brown Mouse Lemur, one of the world's smallest primates and only known from 1998 around Lac Ravelobe (hence its scientific name Microcebus ravelobensis).

Foremost among the endemic birds at Ampijoroa is the secretive White-breasted Mesite and the jewel-like Schlegel's Asity, which gives one the impression of a miniature bird-of-paradise. We will also concentrate on finding the highly localized Van Dam's Vanga and the two species of coua that are restricted to these deciduous forests: Red-capped and Coquerel's Couas. Other birds we hope to see include Madagascar Crested Ibis, Madagascar Buttonquail, France's Sparrowhawk, Madagascar Pygmy Kingfisher, and Rufous, Hook-billed, White-headed, Chabert's and Red-tailed Vangas.

Reptiles are also plentiful along the trails and we hope to see the impressive Giant Hog-nosed Snake, as well as several smaller species. There are no venomous snakes in Madagascar! Oustalet's Chameleon (the world's largest species) and the aptly named Rhinoceros Chameleon, with its enlarged nasal protuberance can also be found. Impressively spiky Cuvier's Iguanids scurry around the campsite.
Camping: Gîte Ampijoroa, Ampijoroa Forest Station

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October 7, Wednesday: Morning at Ampijoroa and return to Mahajunga
Another full morning at Ampijoroa will be splendid for watching Coquerel's Sifakas that are normally feeding right overhead near our cottages, plus many birds active in the early morning. Depart after lunch for Mahajunga stopping to look at waterbirds in the waterways and some great scenery enroute to our hotel. Overnight in Mahajunga in a comfortable, beachside hotel renowned for its fine seafood, the Zahamotel.
Lodging: Zahamotel, Mahajunga

October 8, Thursday: Boat trip up the Betsiboka Delta in Mahajunga and fly to Tana
Enjoy a motorized boat ride up the Betsiboka Delta. This seldom-visited region is home to two of Madagascar's rarest and most endangered birds, Bernier's Teal and Bernier's (Madagascar White) Ibis. The discovery of Bernier's Teal at this location in 1999 was very important. ("Only significant recent counts are 60 on Masama Lake in 1970 and 61 on Bemamba Lake in 1973" Volume 1; HBW.) Other birds possible on this epic journey are Madagascar Heron, African Open-billed Stork, Greater Flamingo, African Spoonbill, a very rare bird in Madagascar, Madagascar Harrier-Hawk, Terek Sandpiper, Crab Plover and Lesser Crested and Saunder's Terns. We will again search for waterbirds. Today fly back to Tana in the mid-afternoon according to the present schedule for an overnight stay at Hotel du Louvre.
Lodging: Hotel du Louvre, Tana

October 9, Friday: Early to Perinet Forest with some stops en route
We depart early from Tana for the two and a half hour drive eastwards across the Highland Plateau to the famous reserve of Perinet (otherwise known as Analamazaotra). Hamerkop, Black Kite of the Yellow-billed form, Plain (Brown-throated) Martin and Madagascar Cisticola are regularly encountered on the way. Our accommodation for the next three nights is the excellent Swiss-owned Vakona Forest Lodge, adjacent to the Reserve. Being so close to the reserve means that wildlife is often right on our doorstep: fluorescent green day geckos scuttle on the outside walls of our chalets and we may well be serenaded by the beautiful songs of the world's largest species of lemur, the handsome Indri.
Lodging: Hotel Vakona, Perinet

October 10, Saturday: Perinet Reserve: ground-rollers, asities, lemurs and other endemics
We will make a very special effort to see Perinet's most famous resident, the Indri! A journey in search of these magnificent creatures is on a par with gorilla trekking in the mountain forests of Rwanda. We hope to be treated to a close encounter with a family group and their eerie, whale-like howling echoing through the forest. These beautiful creatures, with their bold black and white markings and pale green eyes, inhabit the taller forest and are particularly fond of ridge tops. By using excellent local guides, we'll be able to make at least a couple of visits to look for these, and have every chance of seeing them well. Other lemurs we might see today are both Common Brown and Grey Bamboo lemurs, and we will also search known roosting sites for the nocturnal, but inquisitive, Small-toothed Sportive Lemur.

In the evening, we will embark on night walks into the reserve. Nocturnal outings are a thrilling and essential part of any trip to Madagascar and Perinet is one of the best sites to search for the island's nocturnal mammals, reptiles and birds. Nocturnal avian specialties here include Madagascar Long-eared Owl, Rainforest Scops Owl and both Madagascar Nightjar and the rare and little known Collared Nightjar. Although Madagascar is famous for the spectacular lemurs that have adapted to a daytime existence, a number of species of these primitive primates remain, like their African cousins, the galagos, denizens of the night. We will search for and should find Eastern Woolly, Greater Dwarf and the diminutive Brown Mouse lemurs, and may also encounter some of Madagascar's other evolutionary masterpieces such as the bizarre Lowland Streaked Tenrec.

The moist rainforest cloaking Madagascar's eastern escarpment protects the richest assemblage of birds on the island, including many that are rare or poorly known. Over 100 of these have been recorded from within the small reserve of Perinet and we will search for Madagascar Flufftail, the elusive Madagascar Wood Rail, Madagascar Blue Pigeon, Greater Vasa Parrot, Madagascar Cuckoo, Madagascar Spinetail, Madagascar Pygmy Kingfisher, Madagascar Paradise Flycatcher, Madagascar Cuckoo-shrike, Ward's Flycatcher, Tylas, Madagascar Starling, Long-billed and Spectacled greenbuls, White-throated Oxylabes, Nelicourvi Weaver and Souimanga Sunbird.

The moist rainforest cloaking Madagascar's eastern escarpment protects the richest assemblage of birds on the island, including many that are rare or poorly known. Over 100 of these have been recorded from within the small reserve of Perinet and we will search for Madagascar Flufftail, the elusive Madagascar Wood Rail, Madagascar Blue Pigeon, Greater Vasa Parrot, Madagascar Cuckoo, Madagascar Spinetail, Madagascar Pygmy Kingfisher, Madagascar Paradise Flycatcher, Madagascar Cuckoo-shrike, Ward's Flycatcher, Tylas, Madagascar Starling, Long-billed and Spectacled Greenbuls, White-throated Oxylabes, Nelicourvi Weaver and Souimanga Sunbird.

Some of the most sought-after Madagascar's birds are those of the five families endemic to the Malagasy region: the peculiar mesites, exquisite ground-rollers, the Cuckoo-Roller, the asities and the vangas. Some of these, such as the ubiquitous Madagascar Cuckoo-Roller, Pitta-like Ground-Roller, Common Sunbird-Asity and a number of the vangas are reasonably common and regularly encountered. Most of the others remain rare, local or elusive. We will make a special effort to locate as many representatives of these charismatic families as possible, as well as those of the endemic sub-family, the couas.

In the forested hills around Perinet we hope to find the localized Red-fronted and Blue couas, Velvet Asity, and flocks of vangas that may include White-headed, Chabert's, Madagascar Blue, Red-tailed, Hook-billed, Pollen's, or the bizarre Nuthatch Vanga. Most taxonomists now regard the greenbuls of Madagascar as belonging in a separate family, different from the African ones. If we are lucky, we may locate some of Perinet's forest rarities, such as Madagascar Serpent Eagle or Dusky Greenbul.

Highland marshes around the borders of the reserve support some of the most endangered birds on the island, including Slender-billed Flufftail. We would have to be very fortunate to see this extremely rare member of the rail family. Madagascar Rail, Madagascar Snipe and Madagascar Swamp Warbler are more likely and we may also find Madagascar Partridge and Madagascar Buttonquail in scrubby areas surrounding the wetland. The island's reptile and amphibian ("herp") fauna is equally fascinating, a plethora of colorful and bizarre frogs, chameleons and geckos. In particular, we will search for the giant Parson's Chameleon and two species of eccentric leaf-tailed geckos: the huge Uroplatus fimbriatus and the aptly named Uroplatus phantasticus. Another unique member of the island's fauna is the Giraffe-necked Weevil, a tiny insect named for its unusually proportioned neck!
Lodging: Hotel Vakona, Perinet

October 11, Sunday: Mantadia National Park for highland birds, lemurs and frogs.
Mantadia National Park lies a short distance from Perinet, not far from Vakona, protecting a large expanse of primary forest at a somewhat higher altitude. Though it has only recently been opened to the public, Mantadia is now an essential destination on any wildlife trip to Madagascar, having rapidly gained a reputation as an excellent site for the vocal Black-and-White Ruffed Lemur, the elusive Diademed Sifaka (considered by many to be the world's most beautiful lemur) and small numbers of Painted Mantella, a spectacularly colored forest frog.

Among the highly sought-after forest birds are a number of species formerly considered to be restricted to the poorly accessible rainforests of the far northeast, such as Red-breasted Coua and Scaly Ground-Roller. We will concentrate on finding these, also watching for more widespread, yet no less desirable forest birds, such as Madagascar Blue Pigeon, Rufous-headed and Short-legged ground-rollers, Crossley's Babbler, Common and Dark Newtonias, Wedge-tailed, Green, Stripe-throated and Common Jeries, the newly described Cryptic Warbler (only discovered in 1992) and Forest Fody.

Madagascar Serpent-Eagle, Madagascar Red Owl and the magnificent Helmet Vanga are on the list, but we would have to be very lucky to encounter any of these rare species. Much of the birding in Mantadia National Park can be enjoyed from the wide road that runs up into the reserve, although seeing the skulkers of the forest under story will require that we take to the steep and at times slippery trails.
Lodging: Hotel Vakona, Perinet

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October 12, Monday: Drive to Tana, fly to Fort Dauphin, then drive to Berenty Lemur Reserve
Depart for Tana after breakfast. On arrival in Tana, make our way straight to the airport, where we will connect with our flight to Fort Dauphin, then drive to Berenty Lemur Reserve.

The 2-1/2 hour drive to the Berenty starts from the wind-blown, but very picturesque town of Fort Dauphin, through well watered valleys packed with rice paddy fields and finally into the rain-shadow of the Andohahela Mountains where the octopus like Didierea trees are diagnostic of the spiny desert. Berenty Reserve belongs to the De Haulme family who have set aside sections of gallery forest along the Mandrare River to conserve its population of lemurs and other wildlife. The adjoining sisal plantation has also been in the family a long time. A lot of research has been done in the Reserve on lemurs and several species are quite relaxed with people nearby, a great opportunity to get some very good photos of these unique mammals. We shall venture out in the evening in search of Torotoroka Scops-Owl and the impressive White-browed Owl. Also encounter a host of other nocturnal creatures, such as the strange Greater Hedgehog Tenrec and several species of attractive geckos (including the remarkable Big-headed Gecko and unique Fish-scaled Gecko).
Lodging: Berenty Lodge, Berenty

October 13, Tuesday: Berenty Lemur Reserve
Berenty is justly famous for its lemurs, not only because its deciduous woodland is home to five species of these primitive primates, but also for the ease with which they may be seen and appreciated in the wild. Red-fronted Brown Lemurs occur in large numbers during the day and both White-footed Sportive and Gray Mouse lemurs are regularly encountered on night walks through the reserve, though the undoubted favorites are the Ring-tailed Lemurs and Verreaux's Sifakas. While the bands of cat-like, quizzical Ringtails are often the first to steal visitors' hearts (as well as any spare fruit they may have on their persons!), their appeal is easily matched by the strikingly patterned sifakas with their soulful expressions and bizarre, bipedal dancing locomotion. To spend time with groups of these gentle creatures will certainly be one of the highlights of our Madagascar adventure. A further mammalian highlight of Berenty is seeing the Madagascar Flying Fox roost, where about 300 of these impressive animals sporting 1-1/4 metre wingspans spend their day squabbling and presumably sleeping. Close approach however is discouraged, so as not to disturb them. In addition to woodland birds, we will be on the look-out for the numerous Giant Couas. Potential new species we may find here include Long-tailed Cormorant, Peregrine Falcon, Madagascar and France's Sparrowhawk, Helmeted Guineafowl, Madagascar Sandgrouse, Alpine Swift and the very rare Bat Hawk.
Lodging: Berenty Lodge, Berenty

October 14, Wednesday: Berenty Lemur Reserve to Fort Dauphin
Enjoy the morning to photograph the approachable wildlife in Berenty and visit the well-presented local museum, which displays one of the few complete Elephant-bird eggs in the world. Drive to Fort Dauphin in time for an overnight at the Croix du Sud.
Lodging: Croix du Sud, Fort Dauphin

October 15, Thursday: Fly Fort Dauphin to Tulear and drive to Ifaty
Take the early morning flight from Fort Dauphin to the southwestern city of Tulear. Upon arrival we drive to our hotel in the small resort of Ifaty for a two night stay at Lakana Vezo, a great small lodge right on the oceanfront. Stop en route to bird some wetlands and salt-pans which may hold numbers of Greater Flamingo, Black-necked Stilt, Kittlitz's Plover, assorted migratory waders and Madagascar Harrier if we are very fortunate.
Lodging: Lakana Vezo, Ifaty

October 16, Friday: Ifaty in the Spiny Forest
Much has been written about the strange Didierea woodland, or "Spiny Forest", around Ifaty but this in no way lessens the feeling of awe that overcomes one as we set foot in this botanical wonderland. Venturing out at dawn, before the day's heat, we will stroll amongst the myriad multi-stemmed succulents, squat baobab trees and thorny scrub in search of such spectacular endemics as Banded Kestrel, Running and Green-capped Coua, Archbold's Newtonia, Thamnornis, Subdesert Brush-Warbler and Lafresnaye's Vanga. Two very special birds here are the near mythical Sub-desert Mesite, which we may find adopting its strange, cryptic posture on a thorny branch, and the Long-tailed Ground-Roller, an elusive ground dweller best located by its low, hooting call. Flocks of noisy Sickle-billed Vangas are another feature of this bizarre, Tolkienesque landscape. As the day warms up, so does the reptile activity. We'll look for Three-eyed Lizards and may be lucky enough to find a Spider Tortoise or Dumeril's Boa. One afternoon join Fraser to bird some wetlands to the south of Ifaty, where Greater Painted-Snipe, Little Bittern, White-throated Rail and Baillon's Crake have been found on previous tours.
Lodging: Lakana Vezo, Ifaty

October 17, Saturday: Ifaty to Tulear
Head out to the spiny forest early for some final morning action, then drive southwards later this morning to Tulear for a two-night stay. In the afternoon, we will make a first excursion to a flat-topped mountain aptly known as La Tabla. The habitat of this desolate area is known as coral rag scrub and consists of dense thorny scrubs, Euphorbias and twisted Baobabs. We hope to encounter two species of birds with highly restricted ranges, Verreaux's Coua and the recently discovered Red-shouldered Vanga. Reptile life here is particularly rich with large, sleek Zonosaurus plated lizards and if very lucky, the stunning Dumeril's Boa and endangered Radiated Tortoise. We can expect to enjoy a sumptuous seafood dinner tonight in Tulear.
Lodging: Victory, Tulear

October 18, Sunday: San Augustin and Nosy Ve
This morning board a speedboat to the small-uninhabited islet of Nosy Ve to the south of Tulear. The main attraction of Nosy Ve is its colony of Red-tailed Tropicbirds, which allow close approach, as they are left unmolested by local people due to a taboo or fady. We may find Crab Plovers roosting on the sandbars here and a good number of other migrant waders, plus a large gull and tern roost. In 2005 a Sooty Gull was discovered at this site, a new bird for Madagascar. We will have a chance for some very good snorkeling on the pristine coral reef encircling the island. The snorkeling here is better than at Ifaty, so we highly recommend that you arrange after arrival to rent fins and mask and snorkel to take on this excursion. Enjoy a packed lunch on the island, then stop off on the mainland opposite the island to search for Madagascar (Humblot's) Heron, Dimorphic Egret, a variety of waders and the localized Littoral Rock Thrush, that is only found in the same place every time. In the afternoon we will explore the San Augustin Road and La Tabla again if there is time and we couldn't find the Red-shouldered Vanga yesterday.
Lodging: Victory, Tulear

October 19 - 20, Monday - Tuesday: Zombitsy Forest to spectacular Isalo National Park
An early morning departure from Tulear will take us to Zombitsy Forest to search for one of the world's most endangered birds: the dainty Appert's Greenbul. A variety of other interesting species are resident in the dry, deciduous forest at Zombitsy and we may find Madagascar's Crested Ibis, Harrier-Hawk, Giant and Crested Couas, raucous Cuckoo-Rollers displaying high overhead, Ashy Cuckoo-shrike, Long-billed Greenbul, Paradise Flycatcher, Rufous, Blue and Red-tailed Vangas, and Madagascar Starling. The highly elusive Fosa has been seen here, Madagascar's largest predator.

Drive across the Central Plateau to the isolated limestone massif of Isalo. The arid grasslands en route are home to Madagascar Partridge, Madagascar Buttonquail, Madagascar Sandgrouse, the elegant Namaqua Dove, Madagascar Lark and the attractive Madagascar Harrier, now split from the Reunion species. Watercourses through the bizarre limestone formations of the Isalo National Park act as a magnet to the birds of this dry area and we may find Madagascar Harrier-Hawk, White-throated Rail, small flocks of Grey-headed Lovebirds, Stripe-throated Jeries and the region's special bird, Benson's Rock Thrush. The massive rock formations are some of the most dramatic in Madagascar and Isalo National Park also has rare endemic plants. Arrive at the luxurious and unique Relais de la Reine in time for the beautiful late afternoon light just before sunset, a most spectacular setting beside the limestone cliffs. Overnights at Relais de la Reine located between the town of Ranohira and Isalo National Park. We'll have a full day in this area to walk in Isalo National Park and photograph the magnificent formations both in the early morning light and in the late afternoon.
Lodging: Relais de la Reine, Isalo

October 21, Wednesday: Scenic drive to Ranomafana
Enjoy an early morning walk at Relais de la Reine before breakfast and then head for Ranomafana National Park. Today will be a long drive, but the countryside is fascinating. Stop for lunch in the bustling big town of Fianarantsoa before leaving the main road to head east on a rough road to Ranomafana.

We'll pass through the park and reach our hotel, Centre Est, just outside the east side of the park. Ranomafana, like Perinet, is situated on the eastern slope of Madagascar's mountainous backbone. We'll meet our local guide who will have expert advice on where to go first in the park. Whatever we do, new birds and lemurs will be found. This national park is quite different from Perinet and much greater in extent, spanning a wide range of elevations and forest types. We will round off our adventure in Madagascar by exploring these rich forests, concentrating on the species that we missed at Perinet.
Lodging: Centre Est Hotel, Ranomafana

October 22, Thursday: Ranomafana National Park
Ranomafana National Park was originally proclaimed to protect its population of Golden Bamboo Lemurs, an animal first described to science as recently as 1987. In addition to this very rare lemur and both Greater and Grey Bamboo lemurs, we may find Red-fronted Brown, Red-bellied and Small-toothed Sportive lemurs, the impressive Milne-Edwards' Diademed Sifaka and other mammals, such as Common Tenrec and the handsome Ring-tailed Mongoose (Galidia). Night walks in this area are especially rewarding, owing to the nightly spectacle of Greater Dwarf Lemurs, Brown Mouse Lemurs and Madagascar Striped Civets (Fossa) attracted to food put out for them by park officials, and the high concentration of "herps". Chameleons are particularly well represented and we are likely to see several species, most notable of which are the cryptically colored and armored dwarf chameleons.

In the lower elevation forest near our lodging, we hope to find Madagascar Crested Ibis, Henst's Goshawk, the elusive Brown Mesite with its strange vocal duet, Common Sunbird-Asity, Grey-crowned Greenbul, the scarce Yellow-browed Oxylabes, Forest Rock Thrush, Wedge-tailed Jery, and Rufous and Pollen's Vangas. The delightful Pitta-like Ground-Roller is also seen here fairly often. The higher elevation forests and swamps around the village of Vohiparara are home to some birds that we will not yet have encountered on our trip. This is one of the most accessible places to see the highly localized and endangered Yellow-bellied Sunbird-Asity. We hope to locate Red-fronted Coua, the elegant Rufous-headed Ground-Roller, the highly elusive Brown Emutail, Rand's Warbler and the recently discovered Cryptic Warbler, Pollen's Vanga and, if we are lucky, Madagascar Cuckoo Hawk, but these are very difficult to see.

Expect to be out most of the day walking on narrow trails, some of which are steep, however, there is usually much to see and our pace will be slow. We'll return to Centre Est for lunch each day and head back to the park for the afternoon. This evening will be our chance to enjoy a farewell dinner together before returning to Tana for the flights homeward.
Lodging: Centre Est Hotel, Ranomafana

October 23 - 24, Friday - Saturday: From Ranomafana to Antsirabe for lunch then back to Tana
After one more early morning in the field, drive to Tana, breaking our long journey for lunch at the quaint, highland town of Antsirabe, famous for its locally manufactured handicrafts. The road winds northwards across the open landscape of the Horombe Plateau, offering insight into the traditional lifestyle of the Malagasy people. It's interesting to see the way of life in these highlands of the local people and their tall brown square houses dotted about the rolling hills. Most of the day will be taken up with traveling. Steeply terraced rice paddies, graves sites, and roadside markets continue to appear throughout the day's pageant, all against the backdrop of golden-yellow grasslands and bare granite inselbergs, a fitting end to our exploration of this enchanted island.

We have day-room reservations at the Relais des Plateaux near the airport, so you can have dinner and rest before transferring to the airport if you are on the Air France flight that leaves just past midnight, at 1:30 am on October 24.
Day rooms: Relais des Plateaux, Tana

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Costs

Payments and Cancellations: Upon receiving your deposit, we will send complete trip materials. Deposits are refundable before the final payment date, except for $150. The $150 may go toward another tour if a reservation is made within six months of the departure date of this trip. There are no refunds given after the final payment date. Trip cancellation insurance applications are available. Trip options, if any, and singles are extra.

Note: The trip price is based upon the US dollar, Euro, and other relevant currencies maintaining values as of November 2008. We reserve the right to charge for cost increases, including changes in the exchange rate, that occur between November 2008 and the date of travel.

Included:

• Lodges - All lodges as described, including October 2 at the Hotel Louvre in Antananarivo.
• Meals and Beverages - All meals from breakfast on October 3 through dinner on October 23. One 1-1/2 litre of bottled water per participant per day.
• Guides - Our full-time guides, our Malagasy naturalist-guide, and local guides at the reserves.
• Baggage handling - For one medium-sized soft case per person.
• Gratuities - to the lodge personnel.

Not Included:

• Airfare - Please let us know if you need help arranging your own international air flights. Four internal Madagascar Air flights cost US$807 (quoted February 2009).
• Meals, Beverages, and Personal Items - Bottled beverages, laundry services, and other personal expenses.
• Gratuities - Tips to our full-time guide, the Malagasy guide, local guides, and our bus drivers are not included. Tipping is, of course, discretionary, however we suggest budgeting about $12 to $14 per day, preferably the higher amount if you are very happy with your experience.
• Airport taxes and visa costs.

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Other Details

Reservations: Please contact us to assure space availability and to let us answer your questions. Then, fill out our reservation form, and mail it to us with your deposit:

Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris
20800 Kittredge Road
Saratoga, CA 95070
Toll Free: (800) 527-5330
Local: (408) 741-5330
Fax: (408) 741-0358
Email: info@cheesemans.com

Visa: Review entry visa requirements and get the application from the Madagascar consulate website.

Flights: You book and pay for your own roundtrip international flights between your home and Antananarivo (airport code TNR), commonly known as Tana. Please let us know if you need help with booking your flights.

Arrival - Fly via Paris on Air France to arrive in Antananarivo at 9:55 pm (21H55) of October 2 to overnight in Tana. Or take another airline flight of your choice, to arrive in Antananarivo for the overnight on October 2. Other airline flights are available via Johannesburg, South Africa.

Departure - Fly from Antananarivo to Paris on Air France on the 1:30 am (01H30) flight on October 24 (very early morning). Or take another airline flight of your choice, leaving Antananarivo on the morning of October 24.

Domestic flights - All domestic flights within Madagascar are on Air Madagascar and are booked by Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris. The cost of these flights is added to your final payment. Domestic flights within Madagascar are frequently changed, although they have been more stable recently. It is important that you are aware of this in case we have to make last minute changes in the itinerary.

Lodging and Flight Summary -

These domestic flights are arranged by Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris:
¹ Oct 5, Madagascar Air (MD) flight 822 leaves Antananarivo (TNR) at 7:05 am and arrives in Mahajunga (MJN) at 8:35 am.
²Oct 8, Madagascar Air (MD) flight 143 leaves Mahajunga (MJN) at 5:30 pm and arrives in Antananarivo (TNR) at 6:35 pm.
³ Oct 12, Madagascar Air (MD) flight 714 leaves Antananarivo (TNR) at 2:45 pm and arrives in Fort Dauphin (FTU) at 1:00 pm.
⁴ Oct 15, Madagascar Air (MD) flight 731 leaves Fort Dauphin (FTU) at 8:15 am and arrives in Tulear (TLE) at 6:35pm.

Special Note: Flights within Madagascar are frequently changed, although they have been more stable recently. It is important that you are aware of this in case we have to make last minute changes in the itinerary. Some of the roads are in very poor condition. We travel to areas with the best wildlife, and pick the best lodges these areas have to offer. Some accommodations are rustic, but still very enjoyable. The key is to relax, smile, and above all keep a good sense of humor.

Leader: Fraser Gear grew up in South Africa and after finishing his degree spent much time exploring Africa. He followed a career in conservation work, beginning with habitat rehabilitation projects on private game reserves bordering the Kruger National Park. Becoming a very experienced naturalist and birder, Fraser started guiding and became one of the few qualified game trackers in South Africa. Fraser now leads wildlife tours throughout Africa and Madagascar. He has an in-depth knowledge of birds, mammals and reptiles of Madagascar and will insure that everyone has maximum time in the field with the numerous birds, mammals, and reptiles that you will encounter on this amazing Madagascar itinerary.

Travel Insurance: Unless you specifically decline travel insurance, Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris requires, at a minimum, insurance to cover emergency medical care and evacuation for the duration of the tour. We have had good experience with Access America. Visit their website for complete details and we will also send you their brochure with your trip materials. You can purchase a policy via their website, phone or by mail. If you choose, separate trip cancellation insurance to cover trip costs is also available. Whatever insurance you purchase, be sure to review the terms of all available policies carefully in order to buy the policy that you need.

Concerning Health: Please consult your physician about vaccinations, inoculations, malaria prophylactic, etc. Malaria preventative is recommended. Please bring any specific medicine that you require. We recommend drinking bottled or boiled water or bring a water purifier.

Climate: Temperatures vary, but the weather will be comfortable in the highlands and hot in the lowlands, especially in the middle of the day. We will provide details on what to pack.

Mailing List: If you would like to be on our mailing list or request information, please use our online information request form or send us your name, address, email address and phone number. Please note we will never share your personal information with anybody!

Responsibility: Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris, Saratoga, California, act only as agents and shall not be responsible or become liable for any delay incurred by any person in connection with any means of transportation, nor for the loss, damage, or injury to person or property by reason of any event beyond the control of the agency or default of such agency suppliers. We reserve the right to cancel the tour prior to departure in which case full refund will constitute full settlement to the passenger. No refund will be made for any unused portion of the tour unless arrangements are made at the time of booking. All rates are based on current tariffs, exchange rates and fuel prices and are subject to adjustment in the event of any change therein. By sending your initial deposit, you agree to accept our payment schedule as a contract. If payments are still outstanding two weeks after the due date, your space may be forfeited. Baggage is at the owner's risk.

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