Antarctica
Emperor Penguins of Snow Hill Island
October 24 to November 8, 2010

Join Ted Cheeseman on a unique and spectacular voyage to visit the Emperor Penguin colony near Snow Hill Island. Deep into the heart of the Weddell Sea, experience one of the most elusive wildlife scenes on the planet: Emperor Penguins with their beautiful young. To "march with the penguins" is a rare experience that very few people are so fortunate to share. The polar-class icebreaker Kapitan Khlebnikov, equipped with helicopters to access to the Snow Hill rookery, will travel to Antarctica for the last time in the 2010-2011 season. The availability of helicopters for ice reconnaissance and transfers to otherwise inaccessible wildlife viewing areas is what sets this apart from other Antarctic voyages. Because this is the last season the voyage will be possible, it will mark the first time Cheesemans will take a small group of clients to join a larger expedition. This destination is just too special to let an opportunity like this pass by! Join us as we sail through stunning seascapes in the iceberg-strewn Antarctic Sound into the Weddell Sea and behold the incredible Emperors for yourself!

At a Glance

Cost: $15,290 to $24,990 per person, double occupancy, depending on cabin choice. Not including airfare. Review all cost details.

Leader and Staff: Ted Cheeseman with the Quark Expedition staff.

Days: 16

Update: This itinerary was updated in September 2009.

Synopsis:

October 24 - 25 Fly to Ushuaia, Argentina; overnight in Ushuaia on October 25
October 26 Explore Ushuaia then board the Kapitan Khlebnikov for afternoon sailing
October 27 - 28 Cross the Drake Passage; enjoy staff presentations and sightings from the bridge
October 29 - 31 Experience the Emperor Penguin rookery on Snow Hill Island
November 1 - 4 Travel along the Antarctic Peninsula, the richest part of this unique continent
November 5 - 6 Cruise the Drake Passage and up the Beagle Channel to Ushuaia
November 7 - 8 Disembark and fly out of Ushuaia on November 7; arrive home November 8

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Detailed Itinerary

Please Note: Flexibility is paramount in expedition travel; the following itinerary depends on the conditions at the time of travel.

October 24 - 25, Sunday - Monday International Flights to Ushuaia, Argentina
Depart by October 24 to arrive in Buenos Aires by mid-morning on October 25; connect with the afternoon flight from the domestic airport (AEP) to Ushuaia (USH). (Please see the end of itinerary for additional flight information.) A representative will be available at the airport in Ushuaia to assist you and there will be a welcome desk at the hotel to provide additional service and information on the night prior to embarkation. Taxis are easy to find at the airport for your transfer to the hotel. The transfer and your meals on your own, however lodging in Ushuaia on October 25 is included. (You will find the list of inclusions and exclusions at the end of this itinerary.) Contact us if you'd like to arrive early and extend your trip by exploring more of Tierra del Fuego.

October 26, Tuesday Ushuaia and embarkation
Enjoy a buffet breakfast at our host hotel then take some time to explore this lovely town. Ushuaia, the world's southernmost port town, has grown from 8,000 to more than 60,000 inhabitants in the last 25 years. Although becoming the largest town in Tierra del Fuego so fast has resulted in some growing pains, it is a charming town, especially on a sunny day. Enjoy lunch on your own before meeting the group for transfer to the dock this afternoon to board the Kapitan Khlebnikov. At approximately 4:00pm, the ship will pull anchor and head east down the Beagle Channel. As Ushuaia fades in the distance, we will find ourselves cruising largely uninhabited scenic shores. The wind-pruned evergreen Nothophagus (Southern Beech) trees fill every protected valley between the gently rolling hills with beautiful mountains behind. Look for birds such as Chilean Skua, South American Tern, King Cormorant (Blue-eyed Shag), Kelp and Dolphin gulls, and Black-browed Albatross. Enjoy our first dinner together aboard ship as we head for the open waters of the Drake Passage.

October 27 - 28, Wednesday - Thursday Crossing the Drake Passage
En route to Antarctica, the Expedition Team will offer presentations on a variety of topics, including the biology, habitat, and behavior of Emperor Penguins. In addition to the informative lectures, the library of books and videos available will have you well prepared when we arrive. Familiarization on all aspects of ship life and preparations for what to expect at Snow Hill will keep us busy, but we'll also find time for viewing from the bridge or stern. Wandering and Black-browed albatross should be following us as we head south and there's also a chance of spotting a Royal Albatross in these waters. Photographers on the stern will have a field day following birds on the wing in their viewfinders. Most of the seabirds we will see in this region are in the tubenose family, having tube-like structures on the bill leading to the nostrils. Icebergs will dominate the scenery as we approach Antarctica and pass by the South Shetland Islands.

October 29 - 31, Friday - Sunday Emperor Penguins!!! Three days at Snow Hill Island
Our path will be dictated by pack ice as we head around the tip of the Antarctica Peninsula and into the Weddell Sea on our way to Snow Hill Island. Reaching the Snow Hill rookery under the best possible conditions is the goal of the expedition. The Captain and Expedition Leader will consult charts, weather bulletins, and satellite images to determine where to position the icebreaker for efficient helicopter flights to the rookery. The helicopters will shuttle participants in small groups and set down some distance from the rookery so as not to disturb the wildlife. From the landing area, you will walk about one and a half miles to the rookery. This memorable route through a sculpture garden of ice is taken each time you visit the Emperor Penguins. If ice conditions are unusually light, the ship may be able to anchor close enough to preclude the need for helicopter flights. Weather conditions can greatly affect the safety of helicopter flights so there are no guarantees regarding flights or flight times. Helicopter flights for reconnaissance, as determined by the Expedition Leader or Captain, take precedence over passenger flights.

Our plan is to spend three days at Snow Hill Island, weather and ice conditions permitting. During that time, we'll have the incredible opportunity to watch the adult Emperors tending to their chicks. The ice and snow provide a scenic backdrop for incredible photographs. Be sure to bring ashore an extra camera battery and plenty of data storage or film because this is the once-in-a-lifetime experience you came for! The existence of the Emperor Penguin is more that a story of survival and endurance. It is the triumph of life itself.

British Antarctic Survey mapping specialist Peter Fretwell will be special guest on this expedition. Peter just recently discovered previously unknown Emperor Penguin rookeries using satellite imaging. The key to the findings was guano stains visible from space. In a study published in the journal of Global Ecology and Biogeography in June 2009, Peter explained, "We can't see the actual penguins on the satellite maps, because the resolution isn't good enough. But during the breeding season the birds stay at a colony for eight months. The ice gets pretty dirty and it's the guano stains that we can see." In addition to sharing a close-up view of Emperors in the wild with our guests, Mr. Fretwell will share his insight into the latest techniques for studying the fragile ecosphere of Antarctica.

We may spend a fourth day here if needed due to weather, but if we have good conditions at Snow Hill, we will spend the following four days along the Antarctic Peninsula, the richest part of the continent.

November 1 - 4, Monday to Thursday The Antarctic Peninsula
While the Emperors are our top priority, we also plan to visit the Antarctic Peninsula and its amazing scenery and wildlife. Due to the expeditionary nature of our voyage, specific stops cannot be guaranteed, however there are many wonderful landing sites and Zodiac cruising areas that we can take advantage of.

At this end of the Earth, the vast scale of nature will open our senses. We expect to sail through Iceberg Alley, with our exact route being determined by local conditions. We will hope for magnificent sunsets, sculpted blue icebergs, and close penguin and whale encounters, each with the potential of an in-depth experience that we will never forget. We will be cruising historical waters where the Swedish Expedition led by Nordenskjold and the British Expedition led by Shackleton passed in their attempts to reach the continent via the Weddell Sea. Theirs are the most amazing accounts of survival that one could imagine. As we land or pass by sites where the penguins and seals have taken over, remember that these animals were what sustained these explorers for many months before being rescued.

During our visit to the peninsula, we hope to explore penguin rookeries under construction. In the austral summer, Adelie, Chinstrap, and Gentoo penguins court, lay eggs, and raise their young. This voyage takes place at a time when these smaller penguins are selecting nesting sites and choosing partners so we should have the opportunity to see excellent territorial and nesting behavior. These colonies also tend to attract scavengers such as Snowy Sheathbill, Brown Skua, Southern Polar Skua, Southern Giant Petrel, and Kelp Gull. Great respect must be given to the fragile vegetation and to the wildlife colonies. Each participant must keep good protocol in mind during all landings.

While passing through the Antarctic Sound, you will see more fantastic ice sculptures, from pure white to deep blue. A soulful silence may engulf you, unless a glacier calves or an iceberg overturns - then suddenly, everything is noise and waves. Over the last few decades, the Southern Ocean has experienced a significant warming trend, showing clear evidence of global warming, which is noticeable in the height of the Austral summertime, but we will be here in the early springtime when it is not as evident. The Antarctic Peninsula has been feeling climate change the most, with an amazing 9°F warming in average winter temperatures over the last 50 years. This has dramatically changed and reduced ice distributions, but we will still be among a world of spectacular icebergs!

As we make our way along the peninsula, we'll also keep our eyes on the water in search of whales and seals. Humpback Whales have made a tremendous comeback in this region. We may also see Orcas and perhaps even rare beaked whales. As we pass ice floes, we hope to spot Weddell, Crabeater, and maybe Leopard seals hauled out on the ice.

November 5 - 6, Friday - Saturday Cruise the Drake Passage to the Beagle Channel
You'll be recalling the details of the voyage, as you cross the Drake Passage once again. Named after the sixteenth century English seaman, Sir Francis Drake, this waterway of about 600 miles separates the southernmost tip of South America from Antarctica. We cross the Polar Front approximately halfway across the Drake Passage. Those on watch may sight several species of albatross and petrel following the ship; it is a particularly good area for Royal Albatross and Blue Petrel. We'll also be on the lookout for pods of Sperm Whales and others that have been sighted in the passage. This evening we'll head back down the Beagle Channel and enjoy a final scenic cruise all the way to Ushuaia.

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November 7 - 8, Sunday - Monday Disembark in Ushuaia and journey homeward
We will dock at Ushuaia early on the morning on November 7. After breakfast, disembark the ship at approximately 8:00am and transfer to the Ushuaia Airport, or downtown if your flight is later. Fly out of Ushuaia this afternoon or late morning (book your flight no earlier than 10:00am), arriving at the international airport in Buenos Aires in time for evening flights homeward. Arrive home on November 8 with many incredible photographs and stories to tell! Let us know if you are interested in extending your stay in Ushuaia as we are happy to assist with booking extra hotel nights.

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Ship

Kapitan Khlebnikov: is a polar-class icebreaker (Ice Class LL3), combining power and technology with creature comforts. It was originally designed for the rigors of northern Siberia and is one of the few vessels of its kind. It is propelled by diesel-electric engines with 24,000 total horsepower and can cruise at 15 knots in open water. The Kapitan Khlebnikov can carry 112 guests and 70 staff and crew. It has four fully enclosed lifeboats with a capacity of 184 people. There is a clinic with licensed doctor onboard. more ship details.

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Costs

Costs and Payments: Upon receiving your deposit (see Payment Schedule below), we will send complete trip materials. All costs below are per person, double occupancy. We reserve the right to charge for cost increases, including changes in fuel prices, that occur between the now and the date of travel.

No single cabins are available. Multiple occupancy cabins may be booked on a single basis, supplement depends on cabin type; ask us for single cost. If you are willing to have a cabinmate, there will be no single supplement charge.

Cabin Options
Cabin Type Cost 1
Triple with private bath $15,290
Twin with private bath $19,790
Suite with private bath $23,590
Corner Suite with private bath $24,990
Payment Schedule
Deposit - to reserve your space $2,000
April 1, 2010 - second payment $2,000
July 1, 2010 - final payment remaining balance
1 Costs are per person, double occupancy.

Cancellations: If cancellation is received up to 150 days prior to departure, deposits are refundable, less a $500 administrative fee per person. If cancellation is received between 149 and 90 days prior to departure, deposits are non-refundable. Reservations cancelled 89 days or less prior to departure are non-refundable and all deposits and tariffs are forfeited. If cancellation occurs 89 days or less prior to departure and full payment has not yet been received, the full penalty still applies and unpaid monies are due immediately. If Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris is forced to cancel the voyage due to unforeseen circumstances beyond its control, including non-delivery of the vessel, the participant agrees that the only remedy is full refund of all monies paid by the participant to Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris for the cancelled voyage. Under no circumstances does the participant have rights to any additional compensation, including, but not limited to, claims associated with cancellation penalties for pre-paid travel services.

Included:

Not Included:

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Sign-up

To Make a Reservation: Please contact us to assure space availability and to let us answer your questions. Then, print our reservation form, fill it out, and post it to us in the mail with your deposit:

Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris
20800 Kittredge Road
Saratoga, CA 95070

Toll Free: (800) 527-5330
Local: (408) 741-5330
Fax: (408) 741-0358
Email: info@cheesemans.com

Other Details

Leader: Ted Cheeseman has traveled with Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris since the early 1980s and has led and organized expeditions since finishing his graduate degree in conservation biology at Duke University in 2000. Ted's great passion is creating expeditions in which travelers can spend the maximum time possible with wildlife, believing that by coming to know wildlife and wilderness intimately, travelers will have even more respect for the value of wild places in their pristine state. On this special trip, Ted will join the Quark Expedition Team to lead you in an unforgettable experience.

Flights: Please let us know if you would like help arranging your own international flights.

Arrive in Ushuaia, Argentina (USH) anytime on October 25, or earlier. Most find the best option is through Buenos Aires, Argentina. Depart home by October 24 to arrive at the international airport in Buenos Aires (EZE) by mid-morning on October 25 to connect with an afternoon flight to Ushuaia from the domestic airport, Aeroparque Airport (AEP). Three to four hours are necessary between flights to have time to transfer with your baggage from the international airport (EZE) to the domestic airport (AEP). The best flights from Buenos Aires to Ushuaia are operated by Aerolineas Argentinas. Both morning and afternoon flights are available from AEP to USH. There is also a morning flight from EZE if your international schedule allows or if you plan to overnight in Buenos Aires. LAN Airlines also offers flights to/from Ushuaia via Santiago, Chile (SCL).

Depart from Ushuaia on November 7 no earlier than 10:00 am. We recommend booking an early afternoon flight from USH to EZE, if available, to make evening international flight connections. Please contact us for more information, if you need assistance booking your flights, or if you would like us to arrange extra hotel nights in Ushuaia for you.

Travel Insurance: Emergency evacuation insurance, to a maximum benefit of $100,000 per person, is included with your tour price, however we highly recommend purchasing additional insurance due to the remoteness of our destination and the high cost of evacuation or urgent medical treatment, if necessary. We also recommend purchasing a comprehensive policy that includes trip cancellation coverage. Should you need to cancel your reservation, you will be responsible for the fees as stipulated in the cancellation policy. Read about travel insurance and our recommendations and requirements.

Conditions: Travel to remote places like Antarctica is exciting, but it is important to understand and accept the risks, both medical and logistical. There is a small infirmary on board the ship and minor medical problems can be treated, but due to the remoteness of most of our itinerary, there can be no expectation for immediate medical evacuation by air or ship, even in cases of trauma. If this fact concerns you too much, do not choose this trip for your vacation. Anyone with health problems needing close medical supervision should not consider going on this trip. Bring enough medication for more than the duration of the trip for any chronic medical needs, including seasickness prevention. When you send your tour deposit and signed reservation form, you certify to us that you do not knowingly have any physical or other conditions that would create a risk for yourself or for other trip participants.

Seasickness: Don't let a fear of seasickness scare you away! For all but the most sensitive, motion sickness is only a problem during the open ocean passages. Days and nights when we are landing or cruising between landings are quite calm because we are very close to land. The ship has an excellent stabilization system and seas are often calm, however the Southern Ocean does have the potential for very rough seas. If we are hit by a storm during a crossing, the experience will be memorable. For this reason, unless you know you are immovable by the heavy seas, bring a good supply of medication. Ted, Doug, and Gail Cheeseman are quite susceptible to seasickness, yet they have returned year after year. They love the Antarctic but know to come prepared. Read our suggestions for coping with seasickness.

Non-smoking Policy: We have a strict non-smoking policy - smoking is not permitted at any time or any place during our tours.

Mailing List: If you would like to be on our mailing list or request information, please use our online information request form or contact us to give us your name, address, email address and phone number. Please note we will never share your personal information with anybody!

Responsibility: Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris, Saratoga, California, act only as agents and shall not be responsible or become liable for any delay incurred by any person in connection with any means of transportation, nor for the loss, damage, or injury to person or property by reason of any event beyond the control of the agency or default of such agency suppliers. We reserve the right to cancel the tour prior to departure in which case full refund will constitute full settlement to the passenger. No refund will be made for any unused portion of the tour unless arrangements are made at the time of booking. All rates are based on current tariffs, exchange rates and fuel prices and are subject to adjustment in the event of any change therein. By sending your initial deposit, you agree to accept our payment schedule as a contract. If payments are still outstanding two weeks after the due date, your space may be forfeited. Baggage is at the owner's risk.

Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris is registered as California Seller of Travel #2063050-40. Registration as a seller of travel does not constitute approval by the State of California. Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris is a participant in the Travel Consumer Restitution Corporation (TCRC). In event of a client canceling where a refund is applicable in accordance with the schedule above, or in the event that CES needs to cancel the trip, all payments for transportation or travel service not provided to the client shall be promptly refunded, unless the client instructs us otherwise in writing. All client payments are deposited into a trust account in accordance with California law. If for any reason a valid refund is not forthcoming, the client may request reimbursement from the TCRC within six months of the scheduled end of the tour. Please feel free to ask us for more information.

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All material © Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris.
All photos © Doug or Ted Cheeseman, unless otherwise credited.

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