Bhutan
Springtime Passion of Birds and Wildlife
March 26 to April 18, 2010

Join our leader, Hishey Tshering and his staff, on an amazing trip over the prayer-flag laden passes of Bhutan along roads with vivid rhododendrons blooming throughout the springtime. This shining Buddhist gem is a birder's paradise during the courting season of their many birds. Bhutan's altitudinal variations from tropical lowlands to mountain peaks keeps you constantly guessing about the next surprise around the corner! This trip is timed when flowering plants are constantly changing and birds are mating. Encounter over a dozen intriguing mammals, including the Golden Langur, and over 200 species of birds. Arrive in Paro in time to enjoy the Paro Festival, then continue eastward past Mongar to the east before returning west as the blooming season progresses in the passes. Enjoy excellent lodges, plus seven nights of mobile camping off the beaten track.

At a Glance

Cost: $7950 per person, double occupancy, not including airfare. Review cost details.

Leader: Hishey Tshering, along with an assistant guide, driver, and camp staff.

Size: Eight participants, not including leaders and staff.

Conditions: A non-smoking safari for people who are very interested in wildlife (mammals, birds and reptiles) and spending the maximum time in the field.

Update: This itinerary was updated in December 2009. View the plain text version, great for printing!

Synopsis:
Note: 'La' means pass, 'chu' means river, 'ka' or 'kha' means valley.

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About Bhutan

The Kingdom of Bhutan is the size of Switzerland, nestled between Tibet and India, truly one of Earth's most remote countries. The Buddhist culture in Bhutan is more than a religion, integrated into all aspects of daily life in this "land of the peaceful dragon". Bhutan has 20 peaks over 23,000 feet, a wonderful place to enjoy stunning Himalayan mountain scenery on a clear day, looking down on forests and picturesque valleys with terraced rice fields, while also seeing spectacular birds and charming mammals. We will travel easterly, dropping to the southern lowlands in the district of Zhemgang and later in the trip to Phobjikha Valley, adding new species and absorbing the culture. We'll cross the pass above Mongar in eastern Bhutan to enjoy the wildlife in the beautiful Korila Forest, then return west to Paro discovering new scenery and weather changes with new species of rhododendrons in flower. We'll fly homeward from Paro.

Until recently, Bhutan's remoteness, steep terrain, and tightly controlled tourism have ensured that its incredible beauty and fascinating people remained quiet known only to a few. Bhutan was closed to outsiders until 1960; its first roads were built in 1961; no tourists were officially permitted until 1974. You will encounter red-robed monks and herders with their cows or yaks on the road, as well as vehicles. Two centuries co-exist, as Bhutan is a developing country, yet its unique agrarian Buddhist culture is very much intact. With development flourishing, do expect to encounter the 21st century in this remote mountainous land. Towns are expanding and new hotels are being built. The Kingdom celebrated 100 years of monarchy, which was established in 1907. A general election was held in 2008. It was the vision of the 4th King to usher in democratic changes in times of peace. He abdicated in favor of his son at only 51 years old. The capital, Thimphu, now the size of a town, not a city, is growing very quickly with a population growth rate of over 7% per year, as it attracts sons and daughters to settle there, where they can make a better living than staying on the family farmland. Other towns, such as Mongar in eastern Bhutan, are also attracting many new residents, where new homes, apartments and hotels are in construction, always in the wonderful Bhutanese architectural style. Nepalese and Indians work alongside the roads for Indian construction companies, maintaining the winding thoroughfares.

Stop to walk and bird along roads, both dirt and paved, that border broadleaf jungles and temperate coniferous forests. Over 65 percent of the country is still forested, despite many farms dotting the countryside, especially in eastern Bhutan. The Buddhist philosophy of respect for all living things and a progressive governmental approach to preservation of the environment and the promotion of Bhutan's unique culture and traditions have maintained a healthy environment, where wildlife flourishes. Bhutan lies in an area designated as one of the world's ten biodiversity hotspots. Over 600 birds include some of the most exotic and rare species in the eastern Himalayas. Bhutan is also home to at least 165 species of mammals, including Golden Langur, Leopard, Rhinoceros and Elephant in the lowlands, Red Panda, Himalayan Black Bear and Musk Deer in the middle-elevation forests, and Takin grazing on grasses in alpine meadows along mountainsides. Tiger tracks might be found from the bases of the foothills to above tree line, although this predator is very seldom seen. Most of these resident mammals are very elusive and encountering them is very difficult, but definitely you will see very well the beautiful Golden Langur, a rare primate found only in Bhutan, as well as other langurs and the Assamese Macaque.

Bhutan's flora is no less impressive. More than 600 orchid species (including at least 50 that are endemic), 46 species of rhododendrons (4 endemic), and more than 300 species of medicinal plants are found within its borders. During March and early April birds are conspicuously pairing up and establishing their territory and later in the breeding season by the end of April, they enter their secretive nesting behavior. The weather is warming up, although it will still be very cool at the high elevations in the night and early mornings.

Hishey is not only one of the very few excellent Bhutanese birders, he is also a fantastic cultural guide. He is good friends with the king. (Hishey's soccer team even beat the 5th king's soccer team and we are proud to have helped Hishey a little with the sponsorship of his soccer team!) There will be opportunities to examine traditional Bhutanese arts and crafts, which represent an exciting and vital aspect of Bhutan's living heritage, and which reflect Bhutan's spiritual and intellectual life. Surrounding you at every turn from the moment you land at the airport in Paro will be the appealing Bhutanese architecture with its traditional shapes, colorful patterns, outrageous "motifs," and an unmatched combination of engineering skill and beauty. Throughout the trip Hishey will occasionally stop for you to visit a goemba (monastery), dzongs (the monastery/fortresses that serve as Bhutan's administrative and religious centers), lhakhangs (temples), and chortens (stupas) that are important features of Bhutan's religion and culture.

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Detailed Itinerary

March 26 - 28, Friday - Sunday: Flights to Bangkok
We can help you to make your own flight arrangements. Depart on March 26 or 27, depending on flight schedules to arrive in Bangkok at the latest by the evening of March 28. Review flight information. We have included one night at the spectacular Novotel Hotel at the Bangkok Airport that was newly built when this airport opened only a few years ago.
Lodging: Novatel Hotel at Suvarnabhumi Airport on March 28 (meals on your own)

March 29, Monday: Arrive in Paro, Bhutan
Depart Bangkok in the early morning for Paro, Bhutan, on Druk Air, the national airline of Bhutan. Your tickets and Bhutan visas will be issued in Bhutan, handled by Hishey Tshering. There is a daily flight from Bangkok to Paro and it will depart before 6:30 am (as early as 4:30 am) and might make a stop in Kolkata (formerly Calcutta), India, depending on the schedule that day. From Kolkata it is another hour to Paro, arriving between 8:30 am and 11 am, depending on the departure. It's also fine to arrive earlier in Paro for extra time in Bhutan, which we are happy to arrange for you. Hishey will be at the airport to meet everyone personally (or if you arrive earlier than March 29, one of his staff will meet you to be your guide during your extra days).

On the drive from the airport to Janka Resort near the Paro River, you might see your first very special Himalayan shore bird, the Ibisbill, although unlikely, as it is quite camouflaged and is rare and takes a bit of search. It can easily be mistaken for a stone along the river until you put your binoculars on it. White Wagtails and two species of redstarts, the Plumbeous and White-capped, also enjoy feeding along the river. Hishey may also locate the elusive Black-tailed Crake, as well as the Common Snipe, for you.

Arrive at Janka Resort for a one-night stay. On this tour, the food will be excellent, a combination of Indian, Chinese, and Bhutanese. After a great lunch, enjoy the excitement of the Paro Festival. Bhutan is a country of festivals. The most important are the religious dance festivals, known as Tshechus, which are held in different districts, at specific times during the year. The Tshechus are celebrated for three to five days. These festivals, which are held in honor of Guru Rimpoche, commemorate his great deeds. Dances with deep religious significance, especially in the tantric context, are performed. The Tshechus are important religious festivals and it is believed that by attending them, one gains merits and blessings. They are not somber, formal religious affairs, but occasions to get together, renew acquaintances, and make merry. The atsaras (traditional clowns of the Tshechu) add color and merriment to the festival by their bawdy antics. Tshechus attract crowds that sometimes come from the remotest of villages. In a swirl of color and noise, the gods and demons of Buddhist mythology come to life. Masked and sword dances and other rituals are performed in the courtyards and temples of the Dzongs during festivals. The origin of most of the dances can be traced beyond the Middle Ages and are only performed once or twice a year. Each dance has its own significance and is performed by monks and villagers. The most popular festivals for tourists are those held in Paro during spring and those at Thimphu and Bumthang in autumn. The colorful ceremonies, religious theater and exorcism ritual are the most striking testimonies to the deep-rooted faith of Bhutan's society.

We'll also explore the beautiful valley of Paro and the ruins of the Drukgyel Dzong. The valley of Paro is mainly Blue Pine forests, which does not have the diversity of bird life found in the many broadleaf habitats to the east, but the woodlands around the Drukgyel Dzong area provide a hint of the great variety that is to come in the next three weeks. Some of the species that can be seen in this area include Black-faced Laughingthrush, Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush, Brown Parrotbill, Chestnut-tailed Minla, Common Kestrel, Kalij Pheasant, White-collored Blackbird and Grey-backed Shrike.

Elevation: Paro is 7600 feet
Lodging: Janka Resort in Paro

March 30, Tuesday: Paro Festival then drive along the river valley to Thimphu
We'll have a full morning watching the festivities and visiting the Paro Dzong. After an excellent hot lunch, the two hour drive, allowing time for stops, from Paro to Thimphu follows the river valley between the two towns through Blue Pine and some alpine scrub. Sometimes Grey Langurs are active along the rock cliffs beside the road, but not as likely to be active in the afternoon. Our driver will try to pull over on the road edge whenever you are inspired to take photos, as the scenery, including bridges, chortens and farmland, is very impressive. In this season many flowers are at their best, but the sky may be cloudy, although we have had many beautiful blue sky days in March and early April. Arrive in Bhutan's capital, Thimphu, for dinner and overnight at the new Hotel Yeedzin in Thimphu.
Elevation: Thimphu is 7700 feet
Lodging: Hotel Yeedzin in Thimphu

March 31, Wednesday: Jigme Dorji National Park then to Thimphu for the afternoon
Like Paro, the Thimphu valley is relatively dry and is surrounded by Blue Pine forests. But to the north of the city through the religious valley of Tango and Cheri is Jigme Dorji National Park, where the vegetation is mainly evergreen oak forest with bamboo. Jigme Dorji NP is huge, but the concept of national park in Bhutan reflects sustainable use of the park for people to flourish, as well as the fauna and flora. People own private land within the national park and are assisted by the Department of Agriculture to maintain small herds and allow the forests and wildlife to flourish. With an early departure (It's light out by 5 am), perhaps encounter Assamese Macaques, Common Grey Langurs and even Goral (a small brown, native goat), as well as many birds, such as the Crested Kingfisher, Rufous-bellied Woodpecker, Spotted Nutcracker, and Oriental and Large Hawk cuckoos. Stop on the return if time permits at a place with rock-bee hives hanging from a cliff to look out for the rare Yellow-rumped Honeyguide feeding on the honeycomb. If not found here, there will be several other opportunities to stop at one of the huge rock-bee hives along the way. This honeyguide is one of the globally threatened birds relatively easily found in Bhutan, due to many cliffs along the roads with rock-bee honeycombs. Also perhaps stop at the monastery in this valley before returning to Thimphu for lunch. Later in the afternoon take time in Thimphu to buy stamps, post cards and maps at the post office and visit a weaving museum and other very interesting places, including a close-up view of the national mammal, the Takin, protected in a green area on the edge of town.
Elevation: Thimphu is 7700 feet
Lodging: Hotel Yeedzin in Thimphu

April 1, Thursday: Over Dochu La to Wangdi Phodrang and Punakha Dzong
Depart early for some delightful birding at Dochu La, where there will be more time later in the trip with an overnight near here on the return trip to Paro. Watch for high elevation, mixed evergreen and cool broadleaf forest birds. Only these colorful birds, Fire-tailed Myzornis, Red-tailed Minla, Mrs. Gould's Sunbird, and Green-tailed Sunbird, can match the stunning blossoms of rhododendrons and magnolias that dot the entire hillside. At the 10,000' summit of Dochu La one of the Queens of Bhutan built an auspicious number of chortens, a total of 108, to commemorate the victory of the 4th King when insurgents from Assam invaded Bhutan in 2002 of this century. The wailing call of the Hill Partridge can be heard everywhere, although very challenging to see.

By midday drive to Punakha, where you would not want to miss visiting the majestic Punakha Dzong. Before the capital moved from Punakha to Thimphu, Punakha Dzong was the seat for the kings and lamas. It was strategically built in 1637 at the confluence of the Pho Chuu and Mo Chuu, meaning male and female rivers. In the late afternoon drive down the mighty Puna Tsang Chu south, which will be the first attempt to look for the extremely rare White-bellied Heron. Hishey has been responsible for initiating the survey of this rare bird through a donation made by a former client in 2002. Since then, the heron nest has been regularly sighted, the first since 1929. Though very rare elsewhere, the heron has been regularly located along both the Puna Tsang Chu and Pho Chu, also Po Chu or Pho Chuu, depending on which spelling used. (Note: The Bhutanese languages, Dzongkha, and other Bhutanese languages, are all based on oral tradition. Therefore you will frequently find more than one way to spell names, such as Zhemgang or Shemgang.) Another exciting rare bird we may encounter while looking for the White-bellied Heron is the Pallas's Fish Eagle.
Lodging: Hotel Dragon's Nest in Wangdi Phodrang

April 2, Friday: Wangdi Phodrang to Trongsa over Pele La
We will want to leave very early for the hour's drive up to Pele La at 11,200'. Monal Pheasants, Satyr Trogopan and the Great Parrotbill are distinct possibilities here. From the Pele La in sub-alpine conifers and bamboo we start down into central Bhutan. The drive is very scenic and the recent Bhutanese film, "Travelers and Magicians", was shot along this road. Nearly an hour before we reach there on the winding road, we'll have our first glimpse of the Trongsa Dzong across the breathtaking depths of the Mangde Chhu Gorge. Built atop the crest of a narrow ridge, it is, without doubt, the most spectacularly sited dzong in all of Bhutan. It's perched so far above the river that the clouds frequently float below it. The Yangkhil Resort is in a superb location and built in the superb Bhutanese architecture that is so photogenic. Also it is surrounded by beautiful grounds laid out with a prayer wheel powered by water, plus prayer wheels powered by hand. We'll hope for clear skies to get spectacular photography from the lodge of the Dzong and surrounding valleys. Laundry can be left to pick up when we return in 3 days for another overnight at the Yangkhil Resort.
Lodging: Yangkhil Resort in Trongsa

April 3 - 4, Saturday - Sunday: Birding and Golden Langurs in the Zhemgang lowlands
From Trongsa we drive on a road with beautiful waterfalls and ferns at most every switchback until we reach the bottom of the valley and then again ascend to an elevation of about 6500 feet at Wangdigang. We'll drive through a big agricultural area, then more diverse forest habitats, including huge moss laden trees perfect for the incomparable Beautiful Nuthatch. We will spend more time here on our return back to Trongsa when with an early arrival the birds are by far the most active. The open farmland is impressive with rice terraces down the steep hillsides. Crested Bunting can be seen perched on shrubs along the road, maintaining their territories. Have dinner by 7 pm, allowing plenty of time for a good sleep to be ready by 5 am for more great wildlife action. We'll have tea, coffee and biscuits before departing, then breakfast between 8 and 9 am and lunch normally about 12:30 and dinner at 7 pm.

During the three days in the Zhemgang District along the Zhemgang-Tingtibi Road look for Fire-tailed Myzornis, Cutia, Sultan Tit, Yellow-cheeked Tit, several species of fulvettas and laughingthrushes, Rufous-breasted Bush-Robin, Orange-flanked Bush-Robin, White-browed, Black-eared, Green and Black-headed shrike babblers, Golden Babbler, Rusty-fronted Barwing, Gray Peacock Pheasant, Red-headed Trogon, several species of cuckoos, Blue-bearded Bee-eater, Pintailed Green Pigeon, White-browed and Speckled piculet, and Scarlet Finch. Rufous-necked Hornbill and Great Hornbill are distinct possibilities. Besides birds, the endemic Golden Langur is also common here, so we will spend time with these special primates. In fact, our campsite is in the middle of this rare primate's range. We also should encounter the Black Giant Squirrel and the Yellow-necked Marten, two other very special mammals.
Elevation: Camp is 2000 feet, but we will be exploring from 2000 to 8000 feet
Camping: the Tingtibi camp below the town of Zhemgang

April 5, Monday: More great birds and mammals from Zhemgang back to Trongsa
Arrive at the best place in the broadleaved evergreen forests to see the Beautiful Nuthatch by dawn, so we will plan to depart from our camp very early. Enjoy an amazing day of superb scenery and wildlife, as we return to Trongsa once again for overnight at Hotel Trongsa.
Elevation: Trongsa is 7000 feet.
Lodging: Yangkhil Resort

April 6, Tuesday: 6 Over two scenic passes, great for Blood Pheasants
Above Trongsa the road climbs through many switchbacks, then passes through a misty forest of Silver Fir and bamboo on the way to Yotong La (11,600 feet). The drive through magnificent waterfalls, rhododendron and magnolia forest is breathtaking. White-browed Fulvettas, Grey-crested Tits, Coal Tits, and gangs or as Hishey calls them, "posses", of White-throated Laughingthrush are active at this season here. The elusive Fulvous Parrotbill is also a possibility and the beautiful Gold-naped Finch. Once we cross the Yotong La Pass, the vegetation is mainly spruce and Silver Fir forest with plenty of bamboo undergrowth. As we descend further, it then changes to Blue Pine forest, where the birdlife is not especially diverse. But Bumthang is the only district in Bhutan where we will find the Black-billed Magpie. Today we bypass the small town near the Jakar Dzong and on our return in 6 days, we shall spend time exploring the wonderful temple and monastery beside the town of Chankhar in Bumthang. It's actually the largest town in the Bumthang district. Later in the afternoon drive over two more passes further east to the beautiful alpine valley of Ura. Ura (elevation 10,000 feet) is a large, compact, and quite wealthy agricultural village since the advent of potato farming. It has an attractive temple and cobblestone "streets". Beautiful Rosefinch, White-browed Rosefinch, Red-billed Chough, Spotted Nutcracker, Russet Sparrows, Black-billed Magpie and Rufous-breasted Accentor are some of the birds that can be seen foraging in the open fields and Himalayan Griffon soaring above. Later in the afternoon as we approach our campsite the timing will be perfect to encounter Blood Pheasants along the road that are active in the early morning and late afternoon.
Elevation: Ura is 10,000 feet
Camping: Camp at Gayzamchu

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April 7, Wednesday:Bird in superb habitat for the beautiful Satyr Tragopan
We bird early in the morning before the flow of traffic begins with the hope of catching some of the most beautiful pheasants of the Himalayas feeding along the road. Blood Pheasants feed in the open by the roadside at dawn. If lucky, we should also see Monal Pheasant, as well as the Satyr Tragopan. Flocks of Snow Pigeons have also been frequently sighted flying across the valley or foraging in the farmlands. A big sign amid the prayer flags at the top of Thrumsing La, 12,435' or 3,700 metres, marks the high altitude boundary of Thrumshing National Park. With rhododendrons blooming we shall check for the gorgeous Fire-tailed Sunbird and other forest birds, such as Rufous-gorgeted and Ultramarine flycatchers, Rufous-bellied Niltava, Red-headed Bullfinch, Collared and White-winged grosbeaks, Rusty-flanked and Eurasian treecreepers and a variety of tit species. We'll hope for clear skies, but we'll have another chance for excellent light on our return in four days. From the pass it is another hour down to the alpine village of Sengor. We shall camp a little further down from the village, which is the prime Satyr Tragopan habitat. Besides the Tragopan, other intriguing species reported in this area include the Bar-winged Wren Babbler and the Spotted Laughingthrush.
Elevation: Sengor is 9000 feet
Camping: Camp near the village of Sengor

April 8, Thursday: Enjoy the wildlife action on the way to Mongar
The stretch of road from the pass at 12,435 feet down to 2,000 feet is considered to offer the best birding in Asia. Leave the cool broadleaf forest above for the return later this week and explore the wonderfully rich, subtropical, warm broadleaved forest along the lower section of this road (8000 to 2000 feet). After lunch near the small village of Yongkhola in the middle of the best warm broadleaved habitat, stop along the way in good habitats for Capped Langur and many birds. Drive the short distance to the picturesque, photogenic town of Mongar in eastern Bhutan to stay at the new Wangchuck Hotel. The town of Trashigang, a little further to the east, which used to be the biggest town in Eastern Bhutan was recently overtaken by Mongar's increasing population.
Elevation: Mongar is 2000 feet
Lodging: Hotel Wangchuck in Mongar

April 9, Friday From Mongar cross Kori La to a wonderful forest and return to Mongar
A few miles from the hotel in Mongar is Kori La or the Korilla Pass (2298 meters), where the vegetation is mixed broadleaved evergreen forests. Spend the day in this area to encounter families of Capped Langurs, plus other mammals, as well as the beautiful Long-tailed Broadbill that should be displaying and pairing up with a mate. Also look for Siberian Stonechat, Rufous-bellied Niltava, Ward's and Red-headed trogons, Gold-naped Finch, and Maroon-backed Accentor today. Enjoy a hot lunch catered by our camp staff and served in the remote Korila Forest near the Guru Lhathang Monastery. Search for wildlife until time to head back to our hotel in Mongar for a good rest.
Elevation: Mongar is 2000 feet
Lodging: Hotel Wangchuck in Mongar

April 10 - 11, Saturday - Sunday: Fabulous birding in broadleaf forests
Head west from Mongar early to meet up later in the day with our camp staff at a great location to camp for two nights in the best lowland areas of Thrumshing National Park for amazing birds between 2000 and 8000 feet. The lowland boundary of this ecosystem is at the Kuru Chu bridge close to Yongkhola and the highland boundary is at Thrumsing La at well over 12,000 feet. As already mentioned, the concept of national park in Bhutan is to sustain the people living there in a way to sustain the diversity of habitats and wildlife. The main road traverses the park and is used for transportation of goods, as well as for the agrarian society that has traditionally lived in this huge eco-system. The specialties here are Ward's and Red-headed trogon, several species of scimitar babblers, parrotbills, Rufous-necked Hornbill, an assortment of warblers, Fire-tailed Myzornis, Hill Partidge, Satyr Trogopan, Speckled Wood Pigeon, Sultan and Yellow-cheeked tits, varieties of bulbuls, three species of tesias (Chestnut-headed, Slaty-bellied and Grey-bellied), flycatchers, laughingthrushes and others.
Camping: Yongkhola camp

April 12 - 13, Monday - Tuesday Birding and culture in the Bumthang District
Drive back toward Bumthang with some fascinating stops for birds, mammals, and spectacular rhodondendron blooms. This will take us most of the day, but the following day we will stay in the valley of Bumthang, which is also considered as the cultural heartland of Bhutan and hence has many temples. The valley is very scenic and has good places for walking and many sacred sites. Guru Rimpoche (also known as Padmasambava) introduced Buddhism to Tibet and the Himalayas, including Bhutan. He is often thought of as the second Buddha, and his image may appear more often in Bhutanese art than even that of the Buddha himself. All of the places where he is said to have visited and to have worked wonders on behalf of the Buddhist faith are regarded as sacred. During the time we are in Bumthang, we'll visit one of the most important of these, the temple complex called Kurjey Lhakhang. Guru Rimpoche was called to make his first visit to Bhutan to help the king of Bumthang, whose soul had been taken by a local deity. After meditating in a cave to gather his strength, the Guru outwitted and overpowered the deity, who restored the king's soul and became a defender of the Buddhist faith. A body (kur) imprint (jey) was left on the rock where the Guru had meditated. A temple was built to enclose the entrance to the cave in 1652. Two other temples were added during the 20th century. Three chortens in the courtyard mark the cremation sites of Bhutan's first three kings. We may have time to visit another important temple, Tamshing Lhakhang. Founded by Pema Lingpa, the great treasure reveller, Tamshing has religious paintings, which may be the oldest paintings in Bhutan.
Lodging: Gongkhar Guesthouse in Bumthang

April 14, Wednesday: Great scenery over mountain passes and south to Phobjikha
Today backtrack south, then west over the beautiful passes overlooking the vast Black Mountains to the south and along the deep river gorges past Tongsa (Trongsa), where we take a different road south to Phobjikha (Phobji Ka). At 10,000 feet, it is a glacial valley and is the biggest wetland in Bhutan. It is the winter home of about 350 Black-necked Cranes that arrive in late October and start migrating back to Tibet by early March. Though unlikely, it is possible that we may see a few cranes still lingering. Because of the presence of the cranes, Phobjikha is one of the most important wildlife preserves in the Kingdom. The drive down from the pass into the valley is full of great surprises, such as Spotted Laughing-thrushes and brilliant sunbirds feeding on insects in rhododendron blossoms among unique larches endemic to the Himalayas. You'll enjoy the books on flowering plants that Hishey will carry in the vehicle in a small library box. Spend time looking for three species of parrotbills (Black-throated, Brown and Great), Brown and Red-headed bullfinch, Rufous-bellied Woodpecker; Black-eared Shrike-babbler, Fired-tailed Myzornis, and Kalij and Monal pheasants. Also greatly enjoy the beautiful Hotel Dewachen, a photographic delight in itself!
Lodging: Hotel Dewachen in Phobjikha

April 15, Thursday: Travel along Dang Chu toward Docu La
It will be a different view of Pela La at 11,400 on returning west. Walk along the old road with little traffic to find high altitude birds, such as rosefinches, Great Parrotbill, and grosbeaks. Also hope to encounter mammals, the Ghoral and Serow, two wild herbivores that do well in these habitats around Pela La. Arrive by late afternoon beside the newly opened Royal Botanical Gardens site at a campsite approximately 8 km below the top of Dochu La for a great dinner. Spend the night in this lovely location and hope to see the Bhutanese Himalayan in the morning with clear skies.
Camping: near Royal Botanical Gardens

April 16, Friday: Morning at Docu La and return to Paro via Thimphu
There is a lovely trail to walk in the forest here before breakfast that may be very interesting to you. Photograph and bird around the Dochula area this morning, then drive to Thimphu for lunch and back to Paro to get ready for a big day tomorrow to Chelila Pass.
Lodging: Janka Resort in Paro

April 17, Saturday: Depart very early to Chelila Pass. Return to Paro for a special farewell
Depart early at 4 am for the 90 minute trip to the Chelila Pass, perhaps spotting a Grey Nightjar or even a Leopard Cat, a small cat that is nocturnal and frequently sighted before dawn on this road. It winds upward through the Blue Pine, which slowly changes to higher elevation conifers, such as spruce, hemlock, fir, and juniper. At the summit the vegetation is mainly dwarf rhododendrons and open alpine meadows. The pass, located at close to 13000 feet, is the highest road in Bhutan. If skies are clear, you'll have a fantastic view of the sacred Mt. Jhomolhari and the adjacent Mt. Jichu Drake, both over 20,000 feet. This pass offers a breathtaking view of the Haa and Paro valleys, though the weather is often cloudy in the spring. The quest for the day will be the incredibly majestic Monal Pheasant. Other specialties include Blood Pheasants, Spotted Laughingthrushes, Himlayan Griffon, White-browed Rosefinch and White-throated Redstarts. Collared Grosbeaks may respond to our tape. This is the only place on the trip above treeline in alpine scrub and dwarf rhododendrons (Rhododendron cinnabarinum, R. lanatum and others). After a breakfast of hot rice porridge and other goodies catered by Hishey's staff, descend to lower elevations, where resident birds include several species of tits, Red Crossbills, the very shy Kalij Pheasant, and Yellow-billed Blue Magpies. Later this afternoon and evening gather for a very special dinner and a farewell celebration.
Lodging: Janka Resort in Paro

April 18, Sunday: Fly to Bangkok and homeward (gain one day). Arrive on April 18 or 19
Take the morning flight from Paro to Bangkok then continue homeward today or overnight and continue the next day. Review flight information. An extra overnight at the Novotel Hotel beside the airport is about $175 per room with the present exchange rate (April 2009). Gain back one day crossing the International Dateline and arrive home on April 18 or 19, depending on departure time from Bangkok.

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Costs

Payments and Cancellations: Upon receiving your deposit, we will send complete trip materials. Deposits are refundable before the final payment date, except for $150. The $150 may go toward another tour if a reservation is made within six months of the departure date of this trip. There are no refunds given after the final payment. Insurance applications are available for trip cancellation insurance.

Included:

• Meals and Beverages - Meals from lunch on March 29 through breakfast on April 18. Drinks while in our private mobile camps. Drinking water throughout.
• Lodging - All specified lodging with one night at the Novotel Hotel in Bangkok.
• All specified activities, leaders, and park entry fees.
• Transport - All specified transport. Airport transfers unless making a separate transfer on a different day than specified.

Not Included:

• Airfare - Please let us know if you need help arranging your own air flights from Los Angeles to Bangkok, approximately $1650 on Thai Air. Our leader will arrange flights from Bangkok to Paro, round trip is approximately $954 (quoted May 2009) on Druk Air to be paid with the final payment.
• Laundry, personal items, and any drinks at lodging other than water.
• Travel insurance.
• Gratuities: Tipping is, of course, discretionary, however we suggest budgeting $15 to $16 per day per participant (a total of $300 to $320 per participant) to be distributed among all the resident naturalists, drivers, camp staff and porters. The gratuity will be collected at the end of the tour.

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Other Details

Reservations: Please contact us to assure space availability and to let us answer your questions. Then, fill out our reservation form, and mail it to us with your deposit:

Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris
20800 Kittredge Road
Saratoga, CA 95070
Toll Free: (800) 527-5330
Local: (408) 741-5330
Fax: (408) 741-0358
Email: info@cheesemans.com

Flights: There are many choices of flights through Bangkok, contact us if you would like assistance from our travel agent. A round trip from Los Angeles to Bangkok is approximately $1650 on Thai Air. Extra nights at the Novotel near the Bangkok Airport are approximately $175, we include one night with your tour. The Druk Air flights between Bangkok and Paro, Bhutan, will be booked for you by Hishey; round trip costs $954 (quoted May 2009) and will be included in your final payment.

Arrival: Arrive in Bangkok on a flight of your choice at the latest by the evening of March 28 for an overnight at the Novotel Hotel near the new Bangkok Suvarnabhumi Airport (BKK). The Druk Air flight from Bangkok to Paro will leave early on November 7. A daily non-stop Thai Air flight departs from LAX at 11:10 pm and arrives at 6:40 am (two days later) and the Thai Air flight from JFK departs at 11:35 am to arrive at 4:10 pm, also two days later, crossing the International Dateline (lose one day) and arriving at Bangkok Suvarnabhumi Airport (BKK). Flights are also available on Northwest and United from SFO and Seattle via Tokyo to Bangkok.

Departure: We will depart on the morning Druk Air flight from Paro to Bangkok on April 18, arriving in Bangkok about 4 pm. Depart for your home on a flight of your choice from Bangkok. The Thai Air flight to LAX currently departs at 7:20 pm and arrives in LAX at 9:25 pm the same day. The Thai Air flight to JFK leaves at 12:40 am to arrive at 7:10 am. Flights on United and NWA/Continental require an overnight in Bangkok since they depart in the morning.

Our Leader: Hishey Tshering who has arranged this awesome trip, is based in Thimphu, the capital of Bhutan, where he lives with his wife and family. After working with the Royal Society for the Protection of Nature and George Archibald, the co-founder of the International Crane Foundation, Hishey began guiding wildlife tours in 1999. The Royal Society for the Protection of Nature (RSPN) is the only environmental NGO in Bhutan and Hishey is currently a member of their board. He also continues to work very closely with the International Crane Foundation. In 1998 he assisted the Crane Foundation in the first ever color banding and radio collaring program of the Black-necked Cranes to study their migratory route. He is also the President of the Druk Stars Football Club (soccer in our country). His attention to details is amazing and his knowledge of Bhutan birds and culture second to none. Hishey keeps his focus on quality and personal service. He believes in the concept of Gross National Happiness, which he exudes from the moment he meets you at the International Airport in Paro until you depart.

Transport and Lodging: Enjoy excellent lodges, rustic bed and breakfasts, plus carefree mobile camping off the beaten track. Travel in a modern bus with Hishey, plus an outstanding driver and an assistant guide.

Your full camp staff will travel by truck to set-up your comfortable campsite. The camp staff will erect your tents and arrange your sleeping cots, blankets, and pillows; erect a dining tent; prepare and serve all meals; port your luggage; erect a shower tent and heat hot shower water. The tents are approximately 9x9 feet with high roof. There will be no electricity at campsites. Several pit toilets will be newly dug at each campsite for your convenience. You should bring a good flashlight and headlamp, with spare batteries to use at night.

Climate and Insects: Temperatures vary at this season from cold at high elevations to very comfortable, depending on the time of day. It will be very cool in the early morning and in the evening. It's the "dry" season, but rain will be encountered. Bring a warm jacket that is rain and wind resistant. Insects are not normally a problem in Bhutan, but bring a roll-on tube on insecticide for a few places in the lowlands where gnats may be present. Also if it rains, it's possible that a small species of leech will be active in the leaf litter in which case Hishey has a set of pullover "leech socks" that go over your socks up to your knees with a pullstring at the top that keeps any leech from going into your boots. Even if it does become active with rain, it is not a big problem.

Mailing List: If you would like to be on our mailing list or request information, please use our online information request form or send us your name, address, email address and phone number. Please note we will never share your personal information with anybody

Travel Insurance: Emergency Medical Insurance is optional for this tour. Read about travel insurance and our recommendations and requirements.

Baggage: When packing for your trip, please try to limit your checked bag to 40 pounds total per person. We ask that you keep it to one checked bag per person. The less weight the better, because of space restrictions in the baggage compartment of the vehicles. Also some international flights now limit checked luggage to 20 kilo (44 pounds) to avoid paying any excess baggage fees. As for the carry-on bags, this is standard as in all flights. Your bag will need to fit under the seat in front of you or in the overhead bin above. It is also going to have to fit with you throughout your trip, so packing lighter is recommended. However plan to bring whatever you require, as there is plenty of space in the vehicles for carry-ons and camera equipment. On safari we pay extra to give you more room in the Landcruiser stretch vehicles with a maximum of four people per vehicle, plus our drivers and guides.

Responsibility: Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris, Saratoga, California, act only as agents and shall not be responsible or become liable for any delay incurred by any person in connection with any means of transportation, nor for the loss, damage, or injury to person or property by reason of any event beyond the control of the agency or default of such agency suppliers. We reserve the right to cancel the tour prior to departure in which case full refund will constitute full settlement to the passenger. No refund will be made for any unused portion of the tour unless arrangements are made at the time of booking. All rates are based on current tariffs, exchange rates and fuel prices and are subject to adjustment in the event of any change therein. By sending your initial deposit, you agree to accept our payment schedule as a contract. If payments are still outstanding two weeks after the due date, your space may be forfeited. Baggage is at the owner's risk.

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