Imagine exploring a tropical archipelago rich in charismatic wildlife that is totally unafraid of you or your camera. Imagine a special expedition that caters to the pace of nature lovers and photographers, as you follow an incredible itinerary that offers maximum time in the field to one of the world's most intriguing natural history destinations. You'll find all this traveling with two of the best resident natural-history guides in the Galapagos islands and a fantastic crew and captain among endemic landbirds, breeding boobies, albatross, penguins, sea turtles, sharks and much, much more!
Cost: $4550. Single supplement is $1170 for a single in Quito and on ship.
Galapagos National Park fee: US$100 paid in cash paid on arrival in Baltra.
Deposit: $750
Airfare: Approximately $850 to Quito, depending on origin. Plus Quito-Baltra-Quito on TAME is $385.
Group size: 16, plus two resident naturalist guides.
Boat: 16 passenger sailing yacht, the Tip Top IV, with 10 air-conditioned staterooms, private baths, and hot showers.
Leaders: Elizabeth (Ely) Coral-De Backer and Etienne De Backer will ensure that you are ashore by 6:30 am to enhance viewing and photographic opportunities, rather than at 8:30 am, which most groups do. Also they will give daily lectures on natural history and gather onboard in the evenings after dinner to recount the day's wonderful encounters and enlighten you with expectations for the landings and possible snorkel the following day.
Conditions: A non-smoking safari.
Itinerary updated: November 2007
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Note: All routings and visitor sites while in the Galapagos Islands are subject to change by the Galapagos National Park in an attempt to minimize traffic and impact on all visitor sites.
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June 29, Monday: Flights to Quito.
Most flights to Quito arrive in the evening. American Airlines flight leaves Miami at 4:50 p.m. and arrives in Quito at about 9:00 p.m. There is also a flight from Dallas and connections on Continental via Houston to Quito. At the Quito airport we will have a "meet and greet " person there waiting for you, no matter what time your flight arrives for your transfer from the airport to the hotel. Stay one night at the Hotel Alameda. Dinner on your own this evening if not served on your flight. If you would like to arrive earlier than June 29, we can arrange your airport transfer, which we will also cover, and book extra nights at the Hotel Alameda (cost is approximately $105 per room, including breakfast).
Lodging: Hotel Alameda (also called the Grand Hotel Mercure Alameda Quito)
June 30, Tuesday: Fly to the Galapagos and first landing at North Seymour.
After an early breakfast fly from the Quito Airport (flight times and exact fare to be determined by January, 2009) to the Baltra airport in the Galapagos via Guayaquil on TAME. It is necessary to arrive at the airport at least two hours before the flight. The flight stops in Guayaquil and arrives in the Galapagos in time for a half day at our first landing site, wonderful North Seymour. Meet our resident naturalists, Ely and Etienne, on arrival at the Baltra airport, then each visitor pays the national park fee in cash of 100 US$. Transfer by bus to the Baltra dock and board the sixteen-passenger yacht, Tip Top IV, our home for this glorious adventure to the best landings in the Galapagos. After lunch go ashore at North Seymour to wander until sunset past many breeding Blue-footed Boobies and a large Magnificent Frigatebird colony. Male frigatebirds will be in full display, calling for females with their dramatic inflated red throat pouches, an unforgettable sight with fabulous photography opportunities here. Also, California Sea Lions, Marine Iguanas, endemic Palo Santo, low bushy-type Opuntia, Lava Herons, Brown Noddies, Swallow-tailed Gulls, and Lava Gulls will amaze you with the abundance and friendliness of Galapagos wildlife.
Be back on board for a welcome cocktail and first dinner onboard. The chef on the Tip Top IV serves international cuisine and is happy to prepare special dishes to fulfill dietary requests as well. Meet all the members of this very friendly, professional crew this evening, including the captain, first mate, engineer, chef and his assistant, waiter and two sailors. Travel to Genovesa this evening in the outer archipelago. Before dark it's possible to sight marine mammals and seabirds from the open deck and after dark look for phosphorescence on the ocean surface from ctenophores (comb jellies) and other plankton on the surface of the water. The best is to see the tiny invertebrates glowing on dolphins bow riding the boat after dark. But normally everyone is ready for a good night's sleep soon after talking over the day's highlights and hearing about what to expect at Genovesa (Tower) tomorrow.
July 1, Wednesday: AM - Prince Phillips Steps. PM - Darwin Bay. Both on Genovesa (Tower).
We anchor in Darwin Bay for two landings within a huge flooded volcanic caldera. The walls of the caldera provide wonderful hauling out ledges for Galapagos Fur Seals, a very rare fur seal that we will find along their haulout area only in the vicinity of the stone stairway. There are also nesting sites for tropicbirds along the caldera walls. Hike up "Prince Philip's Steps" for very photogenic Red-footed and Masked booby colonies on the walk to the Wedge-rumped (Galapagos) Storm-Petrel colony. These three species need the open ocean for feeding, so they tend to nest on the outer archipelago. The largest Red-footed Booby nesting site in the islands is here on Genovesa. They are adapted to hunting far out to sea and can only rear a single young every two years. Blue-foots by contrast fish shallow water close by their nests and raise two or three young in a brood if conditions are good. We will keep a sharp eye out for the elusive Short-eared Owl, who hunts during the day for petrels by hiding within the colony.
Put on your wetsuit for our first snorkel, as snorkeling in the Galapagos is a very enjoyable experience. This is a great place for the first snorkel of the trip in the calm caldera waters of Darwin Bay. Ely and Etienne will introduce you and assist you in the techniques of snorkeling if you have not yet tried this wonderful sport, which we equate to "birding underwater", enjoying so many beautiful species of tropical fish and the chance of seeing sea turtles, rays and jacks.
The grand finale of this very special day at remote Genovesa is the landing at the small beach in Darwin Bay. Genovesa's four species of Darwin finch, the Large Ground Finch, Large Cactus Finch, Small-beaked Ground Finch and Warbler Finch show huge variation in bill size and all four species can be found here at this landing, one of the two most outstanding landings that we will do for Darwin finches, here and in the Highlands of Santa Cruz. Rosemary Grant has done a lot of research on Darwin finches here at Darwin Bay. Also here, boobies and Great Frigates nest with unparalleled density. Following the cliff edge we will find ourselves in a fly-way for incoming boobies and frigates, an ideal opportunity for photographing these magnificent birds in flight. They are ceaseless with aerial displays of kleptoparatisim, dog-fighting along the cliffs for scarce nesting material. Tonight travel west to Isabela.
July 2, Thursday: AM - Punta Vicente Roca on Islabela. PM - Punta Espinoza on Fernandina.
The northwest tip of Isla Isabela sits at the edge of a sharp drop into deep, nutrient rich waters, where Punta Vicente Roca is located. So while cruising Punta Vicente Roca we will be on the lookout for marine mammals and very unusual gigantic 'Sunfish'. Here in the western part of the archipelago in the deep waters off the shelf there is the possibility of seeing Orcas, Pilot Whales, and some of the large whales, especially Sperm Whales. A study by Hal Whitehead with the help of World Wildlife Fund, found Sperm Whales particularly abundant in an area 250 km long and 150 km wide west of Isabela Island where the Cromwell Current, traveling eastward under the Equator, meets land. Here the Sperm Whales must find high densities of squid, their favorite food. Whitehead found that, like elephants, male Sperm Whales roam between female/calf groups, instead of one male dominating a harem. En route to Fernandina we travel some of the best whale watching water in the Galapagos due to the cold, deep water on the western side of the archipelago.
Across the calm Canal Bolivar, separating Isabela from Fernandina, we will find one of the highlights of the trip at Punta Espinoza. Fernandina is known as one of the world's most pristine islands, where no known introduced animals have established. Here we will observe and photograph Flightless Cormorants, the largest of the Marine Iguanas sunning in piles by the hundreds, Galapagos Hawks, Galapagos Penguins, and Brachycereus cactus growing directly out of seemingly fresh bare lava. Snorkeling is no longer allowed to protect the rich lava-rock coastline covered with algae that the Marine Iguanas depend on for their food. This evening the Tip Top IV will be mostly at anchor, as our landing tomorrow is not far, just down the west coast of Isabela.
July 3, Friday: AM - Urvina Bay. PM - panga ride in Elizabeth Bay. Both on Isabela.
In 1954, a portion of the coast of Isabela lifted out of the sea so suddenly that fish and even a sea turtle were trapped high and dry on a freshly changed coastline. We will explore this unusual site at Urbina Bay at the foot of Volcan Alcedo. One can find rocks full of bleached shells and massive coral heads now far from the sea. Here also live giant sized iguanas of both species, Land and Marine as well as a few Giant Tortoises, which we have a very good chance of finding and certainly one of the most famous species to be found in the Galapagos. Snorkeling at Urvina Bay is in some of the coldest water of the trip, but every snorkel holds the potential for discovery.
After lunch, arrive at Elizabeth Bay, a paradise for sea turtles swimming through channels in verdant green mangrove forests. Here the endemic Flightless Cormorants and the marvelous Galapagos Penguins are in their prime habitat. Nowhere else in the world do they find themselves more at home. We will cruise in the pangas among mangroves to find hidden herons and more swimming turtles, one of the most spectacular locations for panga cruising in the archipelago. Tonight we will again be cruising through rich whale feeding areas.
July 4, Saturday: AM - Punta Cormorant and Devil's Crown. PM - Post Office Bay. Both on Floreana.
Floreana is known for excellent snorkeling, which you will not want to miss, especially at the dramatic submerged volcanic cone known as Devil's Crown. Here we normally see many rays, jacks, turtles and tropical fish. Either before of after an excellent snorkeling experience, we will land to walk along the flamingo lagoon behind Punta Cormorant. Here search for teal and shorebirds alongside flamingoes. The plant life is unique with another species of the endemic composite Scalesia. The sand on Floreana contains a large proportion of fine olivine crystals, a glassy volcanic mineral, giving it an olive-green tone. The waters around Floreana are great for dolphins so keep your eyes open! These waters are also rich with seabirds, such as Waved Albatross, three species of storm-petrels, Audubon's Shearwaters and large flocks of diving boobies. After lunch we'll stop briefly at Post Office Bay, where you can follow in the whalers' tradition of dropping a letter or postcard in the box and taking one to deliver for someone else who already was here. Then we will head east for wonderful, amazing Espanola!
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July 5, Sunday: AM - Gardner Bay. PM Punta Suarez with Waved Albatross. Both on Espanola
Gardner Bay on Espanola (Hood Island) is one of the most beautiful beaches in all of the Galapagos. Sea lions populate the surf while the remarkably brave Espanola Mockingbird pecks at your shoelaces. We can photograph shorebirds and playful sealions, look for the Large Cactus Finch (which looks very different from the subspecies elsewhere), or just walk the beautiful beach. We will enjoy a morning on the beach then explore the fine snorkeling nearby at Tortuga Rock, where sealions may playfully show off their aquatic prowess and a diversity of fish congregate along steep cinder cone reef walls.
At the second landing site on Espanola we will get to experience one of the great highlights of the Galapagos: the Waved Albatross, hopefully active with courtship behavior! In the afternoon they tend to be most active, so it is the best time of day to make our landing here. Observing and photographing the beautiful Waved Albatross in an unforgettable experience, and with luck we will be witness to a courtship dance. In June the albatross are well into their breeding season. Any young adults, birds that have recently paired, or have lost their chick during the early season will be displaying, a most enticing expression of the lifelong pair bond that their breeding and survival depends upon. We will also find the fearless Espanola Mockingbird, Blue-footed and Masked boobies, Swallow-tailed Gull, Galapagos Hawk, Marine Iguana (a race unique to this island that is red and black), Lava Lizard, sea lions, beautiful seascapes, a blowhole and much more. The albatross become more active as the afternoon wanes, so we will extend our stay as long as possible.
July 6, Monday: AM - Charles Darwin Research Station. PM - to the Highlands. Both on Santa Cruz.
In order to visit the Charles Darwin Research Station beside the bustling small town of Puerto Ayora, we will anchor in Academy Bay. At the east end of town sits the research station, the center of evolutionary science and conservation in the Galapagos. We will see the many resident tortoises, hopefully including the famous Lonely George (last surviving tortoise of the Isla Pinta race), along with intimate looks at the captive breeding programs that are working to return the Galapagos to a pre-colonization pristine state. In the research station we will have one of our best opportunities to photograph tortoises up close. We will also have some free time in Puerto Ayora to explore, shop, or treat ourselves to an ice cream. At lunch onshore in Puerto Ayora enjoy talking with a guest scientist from the Charles Darwin Research Station.
In the Santa Cruz Highlands it here that we will seek some of the elusive island endemics in beautifully unique habitats. We will explore Los Gemelos in the highlands, two incredible volcanic sinkholes surrounded by tall Scalesia forest. This is excellent habitat for some of the highland Darwin finches. The genus Scalesia is a classic example of adaptive radiation in the plant world, a parallel to the Darwin finches. The elegant tall Scalesia tree evolved from beach composites, essentially the world's largest daisy. Here it is possible to see the shy Galapagos Rail, Short-eared Owl, Large and Small Tree finches, Vegetarian Finch, and Woodpecker Finch, the famous tool user. We will also walk through wonderful lava tubes left from the days of Santa Cruz's active volcanic island building. Dinner this evening at one of the restaurants on Santa Cruz while our crew enjoys time with their families, as most of them live in Puerto Ayora.
July 7, Tuesday: AM - Jacqueline DeRoy's home and Puerto Ayora pm Santa Cruz. PM - Santa Fe.
This morning for an hour visit Jacqueline, Tui DeRoy's mom, who is a silversmith and one of the original settlers in Puerto Ayora. Her home is in a very birdy area of the town, plus Jacqueline likes to keep the local passerines well fed at her bird feeders. Set sail for Santa Fe to have a full afternoon at this fascinating, small island. From the beach it's well worth the hike up the hilly trail, where a beautiful species of Scalesia thrives near a large forest of amazing Tree Opuntia. Here search for Land Iguanas among the Tree Opuntias, a different species of Land Iguana from those elsewhere in the Galapagos. v
July 8, Wednesday: AM - Cerro Brujo with snorkeling. PM - Kicker Rock. Both on San Cristobal
San Cristobal (Chatham Island) is geologically one of the oldest islands, reflected by its eroded volcanic peaks in the north and densely vegetated slopes in the south. The town of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno is the capital of Galapagos Province. San Cristobal bears the name of the Patron Saint of seafarers, "St. Christopher". Its English name, was given after the English nobleman, Count Chatham. This 558-sq-km is the fifth largest in the archipelago and has the second largest population.
Around this island, look for frigatebirds, sea lions, Green Turtles, Blue and Red-footed boobies, tropicbirds, Marine Iguanas, Swallow-tailed Gulls and dolphins. Its vegetation includes Calandrina Galapagos, Lecocarpus Darwinii, trees such as Lignum Vitae, and Matazarna. This morning make a wet landing
at one of the first sites visited by Charles Darwin, Cerro Brujo. It is a beautiful white sand beach with Brown Pelicans, Blue-footed Boobies, Califorrnia Sea Lions and Marine Iguanas are found. An onshore version of nearby Kicker Rocks, Cerro Brujo is a very striking, eroded tuff cone. Also enjoy a good snorkel here.
No landing is possible at Kicker Rock. A panga ride around this tuff cone formation gives you the opportunity to see Masked Boobies, Blue-footed Boobies, and frigatebirds along the cliffs. Kicker Rock is a remnant of a vertical tuff conformation, abruptly rising almost 500 ft from the ocean. Erosion has split the rock and given it its characteristic shape, which some see as resembling a shoe, the origin of the name Kicker Rock. Others see it as a sleeping sea lion or Leon Dormido in Spanish.
July 9, Thursday: AM - South Plaza and Bartolome. PM - snorkeling around Pinnacle Rock
We go ashore early at South Plaza. This incredible island will allow us opportunities to see Land Iguanas pose obligingly for photos. The Cactus Finch alongside Small and Medium Ground Finches are very fascinating to compare on Plazas, stars of the excellent book, The Beak of the Finch, the story of modern-day Darwinian evolution as deciphered by pioneers Rosemary and Peter Grant. And at the top of the island we come to a cliff where bachelor sea lions escape from the competition of their stronger males and Red-billed Tropicbirds fly gracefully by, circling again and again before slipping into their cliff-side nest holds at our feet.
This afternoon climb the trail (360 feet) to the summit of Bartolome for a classic postcard-perfect Galapagos view of Pinnacle Rock. Galapagos Penguins are often present in small numbers near Pinnacle Rock. Also this afternoon enjoy our last snorkel, perhaps with Galapagos Penguins and maybe even harmless, but exciting White-tipped Sharks, as the snorkeling around Pinnacle Rock is very good.
July 10, Friday: AM - Black Turtle Cove. PM - Baltra then fly to Quito
Black Turtle Cove is always a spectacular panga cruise with many boobies feeding in the vicinity and Green Turtles and rays inside the very protected cove, a wonderful finale to the trip. By mid-morning circumnavigate onboard Tip Top IV Daphne Major, as we are not allowed to land here where the Grants did the majority of their research on Darwin finches. We must reluctantly depart for Baltra and the flight in the afternoon back to Quito, arriving in the late afternoon. This evening we'll have a special Ecuadorian farewell dinner at a restaurant up Panecillo Hill for a spectacular view of Quito and a short "Quito-by-Night" tour.
Lodging: Hotel Alameda
July 11, Saturday: Tour of Quito and free time to enjoy Quito
Enjoy a morning tour of colonial Quito departing by 9:00 am. We will explore the most spectacular of the Spanish-style architecture in downtown Quito and visit the very interesting Archaelogy Museum, which houses the largest Pre-Inca archaeological collection in Ecuador. Lunch and dinner on your own and afternoon free to rest or explore the city further.
July 12, Sunday: Flights and arrival home
American Airlines has AM departures to arrive in Dallas or Miami in time to connect with flights homeward. Arrive more than two hours before flight to check-in. Continental has a good flight schedule via Houston. All airport transfers are included.
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Leaders: We have a very outstanding husband/wife team. Etienne (ET) De Backer, who has a doctorate in biology, plus a decade of work experience in his native Belgium, set out (in his mid-30's) to further explore the world. His adventures took him through numerous countries and across the seven continents, with the Galapagos Islands ultimately becoming his new home in 1985. Since that time Etienne has been a licensed guide or expedition leader on nearly every yacht or ship in the Galapagos, in addition to lecturing and leading groups in both the rainforest and on Antarctica. He speaks 5 languages. Both Etienne's wife and son are licensed Naturalist Guides in the Galapagos as well.
Elizabeth (Ely) Coral-De Backer: Ely, Etienne's wife, was born and raised in Guayaquil, Ecuador. In 1980, following college, she moved to Puerto Ayoara in the Galapagos Islands, where she has made her home since that time. Originally working with the Galapagos National Park in the introduced plant eradication programs, she then went to work at the Charles Darwin Station, accompanying herpetologists, ornithologists and botanists in their fieldwork. She began guiding in 1982 and is fluent in 4 languages, and conversational in an additional 4. She met her husband, Etienne, in 1985 and they live and work together in Galapagos.
During holidays they like to venture to other places for more nature adventures and come back refreshed and ready to enjoy more adventures at home. They have both led photo oriented tours and will do their utmost to get you ashore for the best morning light and stay out on the PM landings for the best late afternoon action. They understand that you are eager to enjoy maximum time possible on the landings and out snorkeling, while staying within the time allowed by the national park for each landing and snorkel. They are very conscientious about following the guidelines set up by the national park to protect the unique Galapagos habitats and all the amazing endemic species that thrive there.
The Tip Top IV: Carries 16 passengers in ten cabins. Each cabin with private bathroom (toilet, shower, washbasin and vanity), locker and drawers. Bar, dining room, saloon and sun deck. All cabins and public areas are fully carpeted. Berths slide together to make a double bed if requested. View the deck plan and more details.
Reservations: Please contact us to assure space availability and to let us answer your questions. Then, fill out our reservation form, and mail it to us with your deposit:
Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris
20800 Kittredge Road
Saratoga, CA 95070
Toll Free: (800) 527-5330
Local: (408) 741-5330
Fax: (408) 741-0358
Email: info@cheesemans.com
Payments and Cancellations: Upon receiving your deposit, we will send trip materials, including a travel guide with trip essentials, reading list, species lists, and maps. Deposits are refundable before the final payment date, except for $150. The $150 may go toward another tour if a reservation is made within six months of the departure date of this trip. There are no refunds given after the final payment. Insurance applications are available for trip cancellation insurance.
| Cost | |
| Trip cost | $4550 |
| Single supplement | $1170 |
| Payments Due | |
| Deposit - to reserve your space | $750 |
| November 15, 2008 - second deposit | $1000 |
| March 15, 2009 - final payment | remaining balance |
Not Included: Airfare from home to Baltra round trip via Quito. We make the reservations for the Quito-Baltra round trip ($385, which was the cost in 2007 and subject to change) on your behalf, and the cost is added to the final trip payment due on March 15, 2009. Dinner and lunches are not included in Quito, except for dinner on July 10. All bottled beverages onboard are included, except alcoholic beverages are not included. We suggest budgeting $250 total for gratuities. Tipping is, of course, discretionary. This would include roughly $200 for the voyage (or about $18 per day for 11 days). This covers both crew and guide, Ely. Our Tour Leader, Etienne, who will collect the gratuity at the end of the trip in Galapagos and divide it accordingly is not a tipped position. The Quito airport porters and the hotel porters are covered, as well as tips for the service at the farewell dinner. On the Quito tour tip we recommend $5 on the half-day tour ($4 to the guide, and $1 to the driver). The Galapagos National Park fee of $100, plus $10 tourist fee, and the airport departure tax of approximately $40 from Ecuador are also not covered.
Mailing List: If you would like to be on our mailing list or request information, please use our online request form or send us your name, address, email address and phone number. Please note we will never share your personal information with anybody!
Travel Insurance: Unless you specifically decline travel insurance, Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris requires, at a minimum, insurance to cover emergency medical care and evacuation for the duration of the tour. We have had good experience with Access America. Visit their website for complete details and we will also send you their brochure with your trip materials. You can purchase a policy via their website, phone or by mail. Whatever insurance you purchase, be sure to review the terms of all available policies carefully in order to buy the policy that you need.
Responsibility: Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris,
Saratoga, California, act only as agents and shall not be responsible
or become liable for any delay incurred by any person in connection
with any means of transportation, nor for the loss, damage, or injury
to person or property by reason of any event beyond the control of the
agency or default of such agency suppliers. We reserve the right to
cancel the tour prior to departure in which case full refund will constitute
full settlement to the passenger. No refund will be made for any unused
portion of the tour unless arrangements are made at the time of booking.
All rates are based on current tariffs and exchange rates and are subject
to adjustment in the event of any change therein. By sending your initial
deposit, you agree to accept our payment schedule as a contract. If
payments are still outstanding two weeks after the due date, your space
may be forfeited. Baggage is at the owner's risk.
All material copyright Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris 2006-2008
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