Northernwestern Argentina
Quest for Rare Mammals and Birds
May 4 to 18, 2010
Extension to Iguazu Falls Available
May 18 - 21, 2010

Guanacos

Let us transport you high into the heart of the Andean Cordillera and down to the deepest forest of the Chaco lowlands to sample the superlative scenery and wildlife. The distinctive landscape of northwestern Argentina, with its jagged peaks and rivers that flow into the lowlands, creates complex and highly specialized zones of vegetation, which in turn support unique species of wildlife. The shy Maned Wolf, the elusive Brazilian Tapir, and the extraordinary Giant Anteater are a few examples of the amazing animals we hope to see. May is the perfect month to visit this region. The forests are still bright green and we'll enjoy sunny days and warm nights without the heat of summer in the lowlands. In the Chaco you will have your choice of the camping under the stars or staying at the lodge. Everyday we'll be in a reserve or park enjoying natural beauty, beasts, and birds with many splendid photo opportunities of both birds and mammals. Join us on this grand safari to some of the most remote areas of South America!

Basics

Costs: $4850. Iguazu Extension $1450. Review cost details.

Leaders: Gail and Doug Cheeseman and our resident guide, Ricardo Clark.

Group Size: 10, not including our leaders.

Conditions: A non-smoking safari for people who are very interested in wildlife (mammals, birds and reptiles) and spending the maximum time in the field.

Update: This itinerary was updated in July 2008. View the plain text version, great for printing!

Synopsis:

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Detailed Itinerary

May 4 - 5, Tuesday - Wednesday: Flights to Buenos Aires and then on to Salta, Argentina
Depart on May 4 at the latest to arrive early on the morning of May 5. You may wish to depart by May 3 to have an overnight in Buenos Aires. We would be happy to book your optional hotel stay for May 3 on Calle Florida, one of the pedestrian walkways (approximately $200 per room including breakfast, quoted July 2008).

Early on the morning of May 5, we will arrange an optional morning walk along the Rio de la Plata in Reserva Costanera Sur with a resident guide plus Gail and Doug (about $65 each). Costanera is a great introduction to a wonderful variety of waterbirds, such as Black-necked Swan, Coscoroba Swan, Silver Teal and three species of coots. Here the shallow ponds along the coast of la Rio de la Plata have reedbeds and thickets bordering them, which harbor normally shy landbirds, like Curve-billed Reedhaunter, Sulphur-bearded Spinetail and Freckle-breasted Thornbird. These species are quite habituated to the many people who walk and jog in the Reserve along the Rio de la Plata! Please let us know if you would like to join this pre-trip excursion.

At midday on May 5 we will all fly to Salta, at the foot of the Andes, for overnight in the lovely nearby town of San Lorenzo. If you arrive the morning of May 5, allow at least 3 hours or more to make the connection to Salta. From the international airport in Buenos Aires (EZE) it is about an hour drive to the domestic airport (AEP) which is located along the Rio de la Plata, not far from Reserva Costanera Sur. We will take a midday flight to Salta, located in the northwest corner of Argentina. The flight time will be determined about 11 months prior when the schedules are in the flight system.

The city of Salta covers huge Lerma Valley at an elevation of 1,200 meters. Over 400 years ago, it was already a populated and strategic place on the highway for troops and carts traveling to the Potosi-Bolivia silver mines. The colonial city of Salta now has a population of over 1 million people and is considered to be one of the most modern in Andean South America. After arrival in Salta, we drive a short distance to San Lorenzo Canyon and our hotel located on the slope of the mountains, carpeted by Yungas forest. Ricardo Clark has his residence, and the Clark Expediciones office, in the beautiful, small town of San Lorenzo. There will be a late afternoon and evening visit to the Huaico Reserve, which protects a large stand of pristine cloudforest. We plan to take a short walk in search of Forest Fox and Brown Brocket-Deer. This area is also well known for its population of Cream-backed Woodpecker and Hoy`s Screech-Owl.

May 6, Thursday: Los Cardones National Park
We'll depart early for a full day in Los Cardones National Park to enjoy spectacular cacti-clad slopes and towering peaks rising to over 5,000 meters. Andean Condor can be found soaring over the ridges or along the deep valleys. The most visible mammals, providing there isn't too much fog, are herds of Guanacos that thrive on the puna grassland. The unpaved winding road climbs up the Bishop's Cordillera to 3,500 meters, where flowering tobacco bushes attract the striking Red-tailed Comet and Giant Hummingbird. We plan to take some short hikes in idyllic surroundings in search of the secretive Highland Tucu-tuco and Mountain Vizcachas, which look like a cross between squirrel and kangaroo. We may also come across one or more of their predators, such as Andean Red Fox, Pampas Cat and Black-chested Buzzard Eagle. Later we continue driving across the attractive landscape of "Cardones" or cactus-tree field where we have the chance of finding Screaming Armadillo by the roadside and Andean Dwarf Cavy hidden in the "pircas" stone-fences. Overnight in or near the town of Cachi at 2,300 meters at the foot of the beautiful, snow-capped Mount Cachi.

May 7, Friday: Over Acay Pass to the Salinas Grandes Saltpan
Today we drive northwards along the famous Route 40, over Acay Mountain Pass, one of the highest passes in the Americas at 5,000 meters or 15,000 feet. Enjoy the dramatic scenery of high Andes peaks and the deep valley cut by the Calchaqui River. Andean Red Fox and Puma are the main quest for us today, but we will also have good chances to see Andean Deer and more Guanacos. Even the rare and secretive Andean Cat inhabits this region, so we will keep an eye out for it on the barren slopes. At this high altitude the avifauna is represented by a fine selection of sierra finches, earthcreepers and miners, Rufous-bellied Seedsnipe, and perhaps the rare Diademed Sandpiper Plover. Beyond the mountain pass we descend to the small mining town of San Antonio de los Cobres on our way to the Salinas Grandes Saltpans in search of the most attractive South American camelid, the elegant Vicuña. We will look out for Andean Condor soaring high above, but our stops along the canyon should also produce good views of Andean Swift and the bizarre White-tipped Plantcutter. Spend the whole day enjoying the solitude, grandeur and intensely clear atmosphere, which are characteristics of this altiplano habitat. Altiplano is also the home of domesticated llamas and wild maize. We continue descending along the winding road towards Tastil, where we should find rodents such as Common Yellow-toothed Cavy and perhaps a few Brush-tailed Vizcachas, a very interesting rodent which hides in the stonewalls of the Pucará (Indian fortress). Heading back to Salta, we hope to see an amazing show of colors during the Andean sunset. We'll return to our hotel in San Lorenzo, where we have dinner and stay again tonight.

Giant River Otter

May 8, Saturday: El Rey National Park
We'll devote a day and a half to exploring El Rey National Park, one of the most isolated and wild places in Argentina. There is only one practicable way to get inside the park as a ring of mountains surrounds it. This inaccessibility provides natural protection to the park and its inhabitants. The pedemontane forest is dotted with a few small farms and is the perfect setting to expect a Brown Brocket Deer, Tegu-Lizard or Forest Rabbit to come darting across the road. This is the largest species of Tegu Lizard, with individuals typically about 3 feet in length, but sometimes as long as 4 feet. We hope to see many birds as well, including Toco Toucan, King Vulture, Scaly-headed Parrot, Gray-necked Wood Rail, elegant Red-legged Seriemas, and noisy flocks of Dusky-legged Guan. Once in the park, we will walk along the trails in search of mammals, such as White-lipped and Collared peccaries, and with a bit of luck we may even spot River Otter swimming along the streams. Unfortunately, Jaguars were extinguished by local hunters before the creation of this protected area. However, the isolation of the region, along with the absence of their main predator, the Jaguar, make this location our best chance to find the "Anta" (local name for Tapir). We overnight within the park in a well-organized mobile camp set up by Ricardo's camp staff. Enjoy a typical Argentine steak barbeque for dinner with good wine by the fire.

May 9, Sunday: El Rey and Calilegüa National Park
We will awake in the beautiful surroundings of El Rey National Park and spend another morning exploring the trails of this magnificent protected area in the Yungas Forest. Later in the afternoon we will head for Calilegüa National Park. The road takes us south, then turns to the west and north again along a valley cultivated in sugarcane until we arrive in the town of Libertador General San Martin for a delicious dinner. We stay two nights in our comfortable hotel in this town near the entrance to Calilegüa National Park. This evening we will first visit the Aguas Negras River, where we hope to find a Jaguaroundi or perhaps the secretive Tayra patrolling the edges of the water in search of prey, such as Forest Rabbit or local snakes. Sighting these carnivores is never assured, as they are very secretive, but we will certainly find and identify many tracks on the muddy shores of the river. Overnight in Libertador.

May 10, Monday: Calilegüa National Park and night spotting in adjacent cloudforest
Calilegüa National Park encompasses 70,000 hectares of rugged country with deep valleys and vertical slopes carpeted by dense trees, almost permanently immersed in clouds and life-giving mists during summertime, one reason that May is such as good month, as it is before the heavy mist season. Early in the morning we plan to drive slowly along the winding road that climbs up to 1,700 meters, enjoying amazing views of the primary cloudforest catching the first lights of the day while activity starts with feeding flocks of colorful birds and songs. Perhaps we will find a group of Red Yungas Squirrels foraging on native nut trees, a Geoffroy's Cat hunting along the trails, or the very rare White-throated Antpitta grubbing among leaf debris. Golden-collared Macaw and the endangered Alder Parrot are two members of the parrot tribe that we hope to find as well. We spend a full day exploring the trails of the park allowing us time to look for Giant Antshrike, Azara's Agouti and the scarce Solitary Eagle. A special nocturnal outing to a nearby cloudforest will give us the chance to see Tapir and Jaguar, two of the largest mammals that frequent these rivers. Overnight in Libertador.

May 11, Tuesday: Calilegüa National Park, drive to Ingeniero Juarez or Reserva Natural Formosa
Before leaving Calilegüa National Park, we pay another early visit to the lowlands. Some of the species inhabiting the lower elevations of the park include Crab-eating Fox and Crab-eating Raccoon, plus attractive birds, such as Turquoise-fronted Parrot, Toco Toucan, Blue-crowned Trogon, and Rufescent Tiger Heron. We then drive north and east traversing from the Basal Cloudforest to dry Chaco Woodland across a transitional habitat that can be surprisingly productive for wildlife encounters. This will be an opportunistic day, as we explore a diversity of habitats while we travel to our destination. The likely species to be seen this day along the road will include Jaguarundi, Little-spotted Cat, Common Hog-nosed Skunk, Plains Vizcacha, Southern Dwarf Cavy, Argentine Gray Fox, Brown Brocket Deer, two species of armadillos. This open habitat with grasslands, spiny bushes and mesquite-type woodland, is also home to birds such as Greater Rhea, Brushland Tinamou, Aplomado Falcon, Savanna Hawk, Crested Hornero and Many-colored Chaco-Finch. Our base for tonight may be a comfortable and quiet hotel in the town of Ingeniero Juarez in Formosa province, although if time and road conditions permit, we would like to reach the isolated Reserva Natural Formosa for one night in our mobile safari camp that Ricardo's camp staff will set up before we arrive.

May 12, Wednesday: The Chaco, a very unique habitat with specialized wildlife
The Chaco, which in the native Quechua language means "hunting grounds", occupies an area of about one million square miles and is essentially a dry savannah-like plain in which the characteristic vegetation is represented by thorny members of the leguminosae family. It is a truly unique habitat, peculiar to Paraguay, Northern Argentina and a small part of southeastern Bolivia. We'll devote this day to exploring along the Transchaco paved road, crossing a dry central area of the Chaco Forest and stopping at two protected areas. Hoping to have good fortune on our side, we will walk in search of Giant Armadillo and Chacoan Peccary. We also hope to encounter Lesser Grison, Lesser Anteater or Tamandua, Six-banded Armadillo, Chacoan Cavy and Southern Three-banded Armadillo. This area is also our best chance for finding the scarce Crowned Eagle and the elusive Black-legged Seriema. Other avifauna here include Bay-winged Hawk, the endemic Spot-winged Falconet, Chaco Chachalaca, Great Rufous and Scimitar-billed woodcreepers, Chaco Puffbird, and two spectacular furnariids. Returning to the main road at dusk, we can try some spotlighting in search of Gray Potoo and any other night creature that might oblige. Overnight at the comfortable Hotel Las Lomitas, located in the heart of the Chaco Formoseño.
Lodging: Hotel Las Lomitas

Cabybara

May 13, Thursday: The Chaco wetlands and palm savanna, Pilcomayo National Park
Another day of travel will take us into the wet region of the Chaco with palm savannas and wooded islets. Several species new for us, such as Laughing Falcon, Black-collared Hawk and Jabiru, will hopefully be spotted along the road. As we drive along Road 81, we'll continue exploring wetlands in the hopes of encountering a Yellow Anaconda or the aggressive ñacaniná (another large snake). Later in the day we will follow the course of the wide Paraguay River upstream traveling northwards to Pilcomayo National Park. Extensive marshlands, lagoons, and embalsados (floating islands) characterize this wet Chaco region. Riverine gorges supporting Yatay-Palm forests, xeric woods, extensive rushbeds, and dense reeds border the roads. Colorful frogs, turtles and two species of caiman abound. The mammal community includes Capybara, Howler Monkey, Swamp Deer, Crab-eating Fox and the enigmatic Maned Wolf. As might be expected, the birding is of highest quality here with thousands of herons, ibises, coots, Limpkin, and ducks in quantities that must be seen to be believed. By dinnertime we arrive in the city of Clorinda and our lodge, located on the banks of lower Paraguay river, overlooking the Paraguayan coast on the opposite side.

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May 14 - 16, Friday - Sunday: Chacho Reserve and a choice of Chaco Lodge or camping
Depart early from our hotel to head to the amazing private Chacho Reserve and working ranch located south of the Pilagá River. The Reserve, located in the center of the Argentine wet Chaco habitat, protects marshes, riverine forests, grasslands, and highland forests. There is a small comfortable lodge built by the owners with four rooms, sharing two bathrooms and a nice restaurant. Ricardo has organized a camp here with ample tents and folding beds, all protected with mosquito nets. Hot showers and restaurant service are provided by the main house. We will spend four days and three nights here for an unforgettable experience in the wilderness.

The activities during these days will include nocturnal and diurnal drives in 4x4 safari-vehicles in search of Giant Anteater, the scarce Pampas Deer, and the enigmatic Maned Wolf. We will take several hikes along gallery forest where Black Howler Monkey, Brown-capped Capuchin, and South American Coati reside. These are also excellent opportunities for finding the localized Azara's Night Monkey, Seven-banded Armadillo, and some of the opossums living there, such as White-eared and Little Water opossum. Nocturnal bird attractions include Spectacled Owl, Common Potoo, Pauraque, Nacunda Nighthawk, and Scissor-tailed Nightjar. Visit a Vampire Bats' cave and a lagoon where we have good chances of finding the elegant Marsh Deer sunning itself in the reedbeds. Near the water, we may find family groups of Negro and Overo Yacarés, the two South American species of caimans, along with the Capybara, the biggest rodent in the world. Depending on the water level, we will organize either boat rides along the streams or walks along the riverine forest that will give us the possibility of finding herds of White-lipped Peccary, Southern River Otter, and Tapir. Even a few Jaguars have been seen in this region. This habitat is home to some attractive birds, such as Bare-faced Curassow, Anhinga, Pale-crested Woodpecker, and Sungrebe. In addition, you may also enjoy a guided horseback ride on excellent trained "criollo" horses.

May 17, Monday: Fly to Buenos Aires and connect homeward or join extension to Iguazu Falls
It will be sad to say "adios" to the wonderful Chacho Reserve and the great people here both at the ranch and Ricardo's camp staff. We'll have one last morning at this pristine site before departing at midday for the drive to the Formosa Airport and flights to Buenos Aires. Connect to flights homeward or overnight in Buenos Aires for extension to Iguazu Falls.

Optional Extension to Iguazo Falls

Iguazu Falls

May 18 - 19, Tuesday - Wednesday: Iguazu National Park for two nights
You wont regret making a quick jaunt north to see Iguazu Falls, one of the Seven Forgotten Wonders of the World! We'll fly out of Buenos Aires on the first flight of the day to Puerto Iguazu, where we will be met and transferred to the Hotel Sheraton Iguazu. Meet your resident guide and enjoy the extensive walks on the Argentine side of the falls. Like it's smaller counterpart, Niagra Falls, Iguazu Falls is on the border two countries, in this case, Argentina and Brazil. Situated in this far northeast corner of Argentina, the Falls are surrounded by rainforest, with incredibly diverse habitats and species, an equally fascinating attraction.

Spend the first afternoon walking the boardwalks along the Falls and savoring some of the abundant birdlife in the vicinity of the hotel, a selection of parrotlets, toucans, tanagers, euphonias and many other forest inhabitants, including inquisitive Coatis. At sunset Great Dusky Swifts circle around the Falls, then plunge at great speed down through the curtains of water to their roost behind. With careful spotting, you may even see several White-collared Swifts. You will be in the center of an astounding spectacle amidst the splendor of the jungle to enjoy both the Falls and the different types of forests with their special inhabitants. The mature Subtropical Rainforest at Iguazu is a compact multi-tiered green wall twenty to thirty meters tall, made up of at least a hundred evergreen tree species distributed into strata, intermixed with epiphytes, lianas and a dense understory, dominated by bamboo canes. The rainforest here is extremely rich in primate and bird species.

Visit the major habitat types: the evergreen and bamboo forests, misty riverine gorges, savannah, and capueras (open areas where the primary rainforest has disappeared due to logging, fire or a natural disaster, now being covered by new, lower vegetation). Walk parts of the Macuco, Yacaratiá or Timbó trails on the Argentine side. The Macuco trail is a famous six kilometer primary rainforest trail, excellent for birding on foot in Iguazu National Park. At Iguazu National Park the endangered Black-fronted Piping-Guan has been seen on past trips near the Falls, so there is good chance of seeing this great rarity, even walking along some of the long stretches of boardwalk bordering the many arms of Iguazu Falls on the Argentine side. The Yacaratiá section was logged intensively before the National Park's creation, but today the vigorous vegetation is recuperating. Typical Paranaense Forest here sustain fascinating birds, notably Saffron Toucanet and Chestnut-eared Aracari. This is the type of rainforest that develops along the Paraná River system, characterized by relatively short trees with huge, powerful trunks, covered by epiphytes. Spend two nights at the Sheraton Iguazu Hotel, the only hotel located at Iguazu Falls inside the national park, with breakfasts, picnic lunches, and dinners provided.
Lodging: Hotel Sheraton Iguazu

May 20, Thursday: Depart from extension to Iguazu Falls
By midday on May 20, depart Iguazu Falls to transfer back to the airport and take an early afternoon flight to the domestic airport in Buenos Aires and transfer by taxi to the international airport (EZE) for evening flights home.

May 21, Friday: Arrival home from extension to Iguazu Falls
Arrive in Dallas, Miami or another airport to go through customs and continue on to your final destination.

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Costs

Costs, Payments and Cancellations: Upon receiving your deposit, we will send trip materials, including a travel guide with trip essentials, reading list, species lists, and maps. Deposits are refundable before the final payment date, except for $150. The $150 may go toward another tour if a reservation is made within six months of the departure date of this trip. There are no refunds given after the final payment date. Trip cancellation insurance applications are available. Trip options, if any, and singles are extra.

Included:

• Meals - Included from lunch on May 5 through breakfast on May 17.
• Lodging and transportation - All lodging, tours and land transport as described in the itinerary, except air flights.
• Guides - All services of our resident guide, Ricardo Clark. If you opt for the Iguazo Falls extension, all services of the resident guide while there.
• Fees - All entrance fees and permissions to national parks and private ranches.

Not Included:

• Airfare - Please let us know if you need help arranging your own air flights. From USA to Buenos Aires, including round trip to Salta, the cost is approximately $2,000, with return from Formosa in Northern Argentina (quoted July 2008).
• Meals, Beverages, and Personal Items - Bottled beverages (except for water and soft drinks with picnic lunches while in the field and in our mobile camp). Room service or any other item of a purely personal nature. Items not on the menu of included meals.
• Gratuities - Tipping our drivers and resident guide is, of course, discretionary, however we suggest budgeting $10 per traveler per day. Doug and Gail also contribute and will collect the tip at the end of the safari to divie it up among the staff.

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Other Details

Reservations: Please contact us to assure space availability and to let us answer your questions. Then, fill out our reservation form, and mail it to us with your deposit:

Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris
20800 Kittredge Road
Saratoga, CA 95070

Toll Free: (800) 527-5330
Local: (408) 741-5330
Fax: (408) 741-0358
Email: info@cheesemans.com

Travel Insurance: Unless you specifically decline travel insurance, Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris requires, at a minimum, insurance to cover emergency medical care and evacuation for the duration of the tour. We have had good experience with Access America. Visit their website for complete details and we will also send you their brochure with your trip materials. You can purchase a policy via their website, phone or by mail. Whatever insurance you purchase, be sure to review the terms of all available policies carefully in order to buy the policy that you need.

Leaders: Doug and Gail Cheeseman find leading safaris to be a fresh way of blending a desire to observe nature with a wish to inspire travelers towards the values of conservation and education. Doug turned on biology majors with zoology and ecology at De Anza College in Cupertino, California during his long career. Gail is an avid birder and naturalist, plus a meticulous coordinator of trip logistics. Gail and Doug lead as many trips as their schedule can accommodate, including Antaractica, Africa, and Bhutan.

Ricardo Clark is a wonderful resident guide that we have worked with since 1992. Ricardo has an extensive background in ecology and ornithology. In addition to running Clark Expediciones, he works to protect the diverse northern Argentine native habitats that we will visit near Salta. A very personable and a great leader, Ricardo has led wonderful wildlife tours for us in Brazil, Bolivia, Chile and Peru.

Outfitter: Clark Expediciones, with excellent bus drivers and spacious buses.

Health Concerns: Consult your physician about vaccinations, inoculations, malaria prophylactic, etc. Vaccinations and inoculations are not required to enter Argentina. We recommend a Tetanus shot and Hepatitus A vaccination. We also recommend that you drink bottled water or bring water purification tablets or a water filter. Bring all medicines that you require. Insect bites are not normally a problem, but your favorite insect repellant may come in handy.

Climate: Temperatures vary greatly. The plateau areas are higher and not humid; the Andes can be surprisingly cool all year with rain during any season. Midday temperatures will not be excessive.

Luggage:It is important to bring cool clothes, as well as warm clothes, but it is also important to travel as light as possible. Laundry service is available at most locations where we stay at least two nights. Plan to put camera equipment in your carry-on. Put your tri-pod in your checked luggage.

Mailing List: If you would like to be on our mailing list or request information, please use our online request form or send us your name, address, email address and phone number. Please note we will never share your personal information with anybody!

Responsibility: Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris, Saratoga, California, act only as agents and shall not be responsible or become liable for any delay incurred by any person in connection with any means of transportation, nor for the loss, damage or injury to person or property by reason of any event beyond the control of the agency or default of such agency suppliers. The right is reserved to cancel the tour prior to departure, in which case full refund will constitute full settlement to the passenger. No refund will be made for any unused portion of the tour unless arrangements are made at the time of booking. All rates are based on current tariffs and exchange rates and are subject to adjustment in the event of any change therein. Baggage is at the owner's risk.

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Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris is registered as California Seller of Travel #2063050-40. Registration as a seller of travel does not constitute approval by the State of California. All payments for transportation or travel service not provided to the passenger shall be promptly refunded, in accordance with terms described above, unless the passenger otherwise instructs us, in writing. All client payments are deposited into a trust account in accordance with California law. This business is a participant in the Travel Consumer Restitution Corporation (TCRC). We will always make due refunds in a timely manner, as we have for over twenty years. However, if we didn't, you, the passenger, may request reimbursement from the TCRC within six months of the scheduled end of the tour. Please feel free to ask us for more information.
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