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Saturday, March 22 – Thursday, April 10, 2008
with Ricardo Clark & Gail & Doug Cheeseman
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| Mother Vicuña with young |
Land Costs: $5800 with all meals from lunch on March 23 through
breakfast on April 9. All lodges have private baths. Single supplement:
$980.
Airfare: Contact LanChile direct at 866-435-9526 or at www.lanchile.com.
More flight details at end of itinerary.
Deposit: $500 ($150 non-refundable).
Leaders: Doug and Gail Cheeseman
and our resident guide, Ricardo Clark, whom we have worked with since
1992. Ricardo has a vast background in ecology and ornithology and works
constantly for the conservation of Neotropical wildlife habitats. Ricardo
has an extensive history leading trips throughout Chile, and we look forward
to the experience of exploring this country and its wildlife with Ricardo.
Outfitters: Clark Expediciones, which provides excellent bus drivers and buses.
Group Size: 12, plus Gail, Doug and Ricardo.
Conditions: A nonsmoking tour. Itinerary prepared 8/06
Chile is a country of contrasts running from the arid High Andes in
the north, along more than 4,000 kilometres of Pacific Ocean coastline
to the sub-Antarctic islands of the south. Nowhere more than 180 kilometres
wide, the patchwork of cultivation in the central valleys is framed by
towering peaks of the Andes, which form a spine along the western boundaries
with Argentina. An efficient network of domestic flights connect the major
cities making it relatively easy to travel from watching Andean lake waterbirds
to Humboldt current seabirds and from hot desert oases to the chilly wilderness
of Tierra del Fuego. There is a huge diversity of avifauna, which includes
representatives from most of the Neotropical bird families. Wandering
herds of Llama and Vicuñas and an ever-present backdrop of the
high mountains present an image that is unmistakably South American. Chile’s
green valleys surrounded by snow-capped peaks are often compared with
Switzerland’s!
Brief Itinerary:
- March 22 - 23 Fly to Santiago, arriving the morning of the 23rd;
El Peral Reserve in Santiago
- March 24 Fly from Santiago to the seaside town of Arica for great
birding along the coast
- March 25 - 26 Putre for two nights in the Andean foothills and Lauca
National Park in the Puna
- March 27 – 28 Fly Arica/Santiago; drive north to Quintero
for two nights to enjoy a pelagic trip
- March 29 East to La Campana National Park, then along the Alvarado
Canyon to Santiago
- March 30 – 31 Fly to the small town of Osorno and drive east
to Puyehue National Park
- April 1 Bird to Puerto Montt, then fly to Punta Arenas to explore
the Straits of Magellan
- April 2 An exciting ferry ride to Porvenir, visit Swans Lake Sanctuary
& stay in Porvenir
- April 3 Tierra del Fuego returning by ferry to the mainland &
drive to Puerto Natales
- April 4 – 5 Torres del Paine National Park and overnights
in the park
- April 6 Torres del Paine NP in the morning and return to Puerto
Natales for overnight
- April 7 AM with Magellanic Penguins, then fly to Santiago for two
nights
- April 8 Grand finale on Mtn. Tupungatz in quest of the Diademed
Sandpiper-Plover
- April 9 AM free if flying this afternoon or day free in Santiago
if departing this evening
- April 10 Arrive home
Detailed Itinerary:
Saturday, March 22 – Sunday, March 23 Flights to
Santiago and visit El Peral Reserve
If flying from the USA, fly via Los Angeles or Miami on a scheduled
flight to Santiago in Chile.
Depart by March 22 to arrive by early morning March 23. After a long
overnight flight, a period of relaxation at our city hotel may be popular,
but for anyone eager to go for great photographs and the new avifauna,
we will be arranging a visit to nearby El Peral Reserve. With its large
lagoon and reedbeds it is in some respects similar to the famous Costanera
Sur urban reserve in Buenos Aires and offers a fine selection of waterbirds.
Black-necked Swan, Chiloe Wigeon, Red Shoveler, Lake Duck and Black-headed
Duck are all possibilities here and the reeds provide shelter for one
of the most delightful of South American flycatchers, the stunning Many-colored
Rush-Tyrant. Other birds to anticipate include Spot-flanked Gallinule,
Red-gartered, White-winged and Red-fronted coots, Rufous-tailed Plantcutter,
Austral Blackbird, and our first endemic for the tour, the Chilean Mockingbird.
Monday, March 24 Fly to Arica and the Azapa Valley on the
coast
We leave Santiago on a morning flight north to the seaside town of Arica
where we stay overnight. First stop after checking-in at our hotel will
be the rocky coastline near the town where we should be greeted by a
host of seabirds and shorebirds, including Peruvian Booby, Peruvian
(Brown) Pelican, Guanay and Red-legged cormorants, Surfbird, American
and Blackish oystercatchers. The localized Band-tailed Gull and the
attractive Inca Tern are other birds we may find here. Turning our attention
to the city gardens and the Azapa Valley in the outskirts of Arica we
should find an abundance of flowering plants, which are often a magnet
for hummingbirds. Chilean Woodstar and Oasis Hummingbird are two of
the potential species. Some of the other birds to look out for during
our Arica tour include; White-winged Dove, Croaking Ground-Dove, White-crested
Elaenia, Vermilion Flycatcher, Cinereous Conebill, Chestnut-throated
Seedeater and Slender-billed Finch.
Tuesday, March 25 – Wednesday, March 26 Andean foothills
and Lauca National Park
As we drive slowly climbing into the Andes foothills from Arica to Putre,
enjoy an unfolding change of scenery and birds. Initially we’ll
pass through aridlands with sparse vegetation, but cacti and other succulents
become more prominent as the road twists through a region of curious
shaped rocks. At the higher elevations around Putre various sierra-finches
abound. We will be in no hurry to complete the journey making frequent
stops along the way to investigate each habitat and look for special
birds. Species to anticipate include Peruvian Martin, Andean Tinamou,
Andean Hillstar, Mountain Parakeet, Black-winged Ground-Dove, Groove-billed
Ani, Andean Swift, Straight-billed & White-throated earthcreepers,
Greyish Miner, Chiguanco Thrush, Red-breasted Meadowlark, Hooded Siskin
and at least four species of sierra-finches. We spend two nights at
Hosteria Las Vicuñas in the small town of Putre.
The immensely scenic Lauca National Park will be our destination on
Wednesday in 140,000 hectares of puna habitat at an elevation of between
3,200 and 6,300 metres on the Bolivian border. Included in the park
is Lake Chungara, one of the highest lakes in the world, which is full
of birds, including Silvery Grebe, Giant Coot, Crested and Andean Ruddy
ducks, Puna Teal, Puna Ibis, Puna Plover, Andean, Chilean and Puna flamingoes.
As we travel around the park, we will not only be rewarded by spectacular
mountain scenery, but a superb selection of high altitude birds, including
Torrent Duck, Puna Rhea, Puna Tinamou, Andean Lapwing, Rufous-bellied
Seedsnipe, Andean Avocet, Andean Gull, Andean Flicker, Puna Miner, White-winged
Cinclodes, and several species of ground-tyrants. Some highly adapted
mammals manage to exist in this harsh terrain. Domestic herds of Alpaca
and Llama roam the National Park competing for grazing with hundreds
of Vicuña and smaller numbers of Guanaco. The scarce Chinchillon
or Mountain Viscacha, although quite nocturnal, also occurs here and
we may find an endearing little Degu, a cross between a vole and a guinea-pig!
Besides sampling the birdlife of Lake Chungara and the more accessible
areas of the National Park, we should try searching the wetter grasslands
and bogs for the rare Diademed Sandpiper-Plover. This peculiar wader
is never easy to locate, but we may be lucky and whilst looking in this
damper habitat could find other montane birds, such as Puna Snipe, White-winged
Diuca-Finch and Red-backed Sierra-Finch.
Thursday, March 27 – Friday, March 28 Fly Arica/Santiago;
pelagic trip from Quintero
There will be time for a second look at the scenery and birds as we
descend from the foothills to Arica. Three species that are particularly
interesting are the majestic Andean Condor soaring over roadside crags,
the largest hummingbird in the world, the Giant Hummingbird, and the
Peruvian Thick-knee. Later in the day we catch a flight from Arica to
Santiago and on arrival in the capital, we’ll drive north to the
small port of Quintero on the northern edge of Valparaíso Bay
for two nights at the Yatch Club Hotel of Quintero.
The ocean waters off Valparaiso Bay are rich in nutrient upwellings
from the Humboldt current, which passes close to the coastline. This
creates ideal feeding grounds for seabirds and we plan a morning pelagic
trip to discover which species are loitering offshore. The list of potentials
include, Royal, Grey-headed, Salvin's, Buller's, Shy and Light-mantled
albatrosses, plus a miscellany of petrels, shearwaters, skuas and terns.
Like all such sea trips, the results cannot be guaranteed or even predicted,
but we are hopeful of reasonable success. The sea is not always tranquil
however, so we recommend a good breakfast before embarking and taking
Bonine or similar the night before. We’ll have plenty of gingersnaps
and crackers onboard.
By midday and back on dry land we will drive along the coast for a
short distance to scan a muddy estuary and various rocky headlands.
The former might produce Black Skimmer and Brown-hooded Gull and the
promontories could yield Humboldt Penguin, Surfbird and Southern Sea
Lions hauled out on the rocks. Another endemic, the Chilean Seaside
Cinclodes, is found along this stretch of coast.
Saturday, March 29 La Campana National Park and the Alvarado
Canyon to Santiago
After yesterday’s emphasis on seabirds, today we’ll explore
oak woodlands in La Campana National Park east of Quintero. The other
vegetation in this reserve is of particular interest, the upper slopes
embracing a valley filled with rare Ocoa Palms. The lower elevations
have extensive Chaparral style scrub, which hide some of the more secretive
skulkers. Six of the nine mainland endemics of Chile inhabit the park,
Crag Chilia, Moustached Turca, Chilean Mockingbird, Dusky-tailed Canastero,
Dusky and White-throated tapaculos. We can expect to see at least four
of these during our visit and other possible birds in La Campana include
Chilean Tinamou, Chilean Pigeon, Green-backed Firecrown and Great Shrike-Tyrant.
In the afternoon we will drive eastwards along the Alvarado Canyon and
then south to Santiago for overnight
Sunday, March 30 – Monday, March 31 Fly Santiago/Osorno
and Puyehue National Park
In the morning we transfer to the airport and take our flight
to the small town of Osorno. From here we drive east across a superb
landscape of blue lakes and volcanoes to the humid Valdiviana forest
of Puyehue National Park. Our base for two nights is Antillanca Ski-Lodge,
which as its name suggests, is popular with skiers trying out their
skills on these high windy slopes bordering Argentina. The drive from
Osorno takes about two hours and we will probably arrive in the afternoon,
but earlier in the journey the distinctive honking of Black-faced Ibis
will more than likely proclaim the presence of these handsome birds
at the roadside. We may see a few more species from our vehicle and
during opportunistic birding stops on the way to Antillanca.
We should have a fascinating day braving the often cold and windy conditions
for the rewards of some top quality Andean birding. Our activities will
take us into tracts of beech forest near the lodge and along trails
through dense bamboo forests where the enigmatic Pudu Dwarf-Deer may
be glimpsed before it rushes off into cover. Representatives of the
Andean avifauna inhabiting the reserve include Bicolored Hawk, Austral
Parakeet, Austral Pygmy-Owl, Green-backed Firecrown, Magellanic &
Striped woodpeckers, Chilean Flicker, Thorn-tailed Rayadito, White-throated
Treerunner, Chucao Tapaculo, Black-throated Huet-Huet, Austral Thrush,
Fire-eyed Diucon and Patagonian Sierra-Finch. Finding some of the more
retiring species can be a difficult exercise in such thick cover, but
these unusually striking little birds are worth the perseverance. Venturing
to some small lakes in another part of the reserve, we could find the
extraordinary Flying Steamer-Duck demonstrating its aeronautical skills
and the lively Dark-bellied Cinclodes.
Tuesday, April 1 Fly Puerto Montt to Punta Arenas to explore
the Straits of Magellan
We drive to the city of Puerto Montt, pausing along the way to look
for the rare White-throated Hawk in the hills and for Slender-billed
Parakeet in small stands of Araucano forest. Later in the morning we
catch a flight south to Punta Arenas, the famous port on the shores
of the Straits of Magellan. The flight from Puerto Montt is particularly
scenic if conditions are clear to see the snowy mountains, glaciers
and dramatic coastline slipping past below the aircraft.
On arrival at Punta Arenas after checking-in at our hotel, we should
have time for a walk along the waterfront. It will soon be evident that
the avifauna here is excitingly different from any of the previous locations
with a distinct sub-Antarctic influence. Typical birds of the seashore
and open water at this latitude include Southern Giant Petrel, Rock
and Imperial shags, Black-faced Ibis, Flightless Steamer Duck, Crested
Duck, Upland, Ashy-headed and Kelp geese, Magellanic Oystercatcher,
Chilean Skua, and Dolphin Gull.
Wednesday, April 2 Ferry to Porvenir and Swans Lake Sanctuary
This should be an unforgettable day devoted to the Straits of Magellan
and the Chilean sector of Tierra Del Fuego. Political rather than geographic
boundaries divide the island of Tierra Del Fuego between Argentina and
Chile with the former claiming the largest land area. The countless
islands in these southern waters around Cape Horn have long been the
subject of dispute between the two countries, but for birds it is one
vast wilderness to roam over, irrespective of borders.
The day begins with a ferry crossing from Punta Arenas to Porvenir,
a voyage of about two and a half hours, which could be marked by sightings
of various seabirds, such as the little Magellanic Diving-Petrel and
Magellanic Penguins. Distinctive piebald Commerson's Dolphins may also
put in an appearance following the vessel. The Straits of Magellan are
exceedingly photogenic as the southern spur of the Andes Mountains sweep
down to the very edge of the water creating a tremendous vista of snowy
peaks and rugged crags.
After checking-in at a small hotel in Porvenir, we will drive a short
distance into typical Tierra Del Fuego steppe to visit Swans Lake Sanctuary.
Here on the shoreline of a small lake we hope to find the confiding,
but rare Magellanic Plover, a strange southern wader, which looks almost
dove-like, as it picks away at the muddy edges. These birds frequently
'paddle' with their feet to disturb the animal life in the mud, a habit
that often draws attention to them when a casual inspection of the pool
has failed to reveal their presence! Other birds in this windy terrain
include Least Seedsnipe, Magellanic and Blackish oystercatchers, Short-billed
Miner, Two-banded Plover, and Correndera Pipits. After devoting time
to the steppe pools we will return to the coastline and our hotel in
Porvenir overlooking the waters of the Strait.
Thursday, April 3 Tierra del Fuego and return by ferry,
then north to Puerto Natales
Today we travel north across Tierra Del Fuego returning to the mainland
by a different ferry from yesterday and driving northwards to Puerto
Natales for an overnight stop. This wild and desolate landscape of rolling
hills, moorland and lakes has many birds and among the special ones
will be Patagonian Lesser Rhea, Coscoroba and Black-necked Swans, the
very localized Ruddy-headed Goose, Canary-winged Finch, the handsome
Chocolate-vented Tyrant, Long-tailed Meadowlark and Patagonian Yellow
Finch. During the drive we may well see herds of Guanaco roaming over
the moors, surely one of the most attractive of all the South American
camels but all too frequently the target of hunters. The scrubby roadside
vegetation also provides concealment for a few species of skulking passerines,
such as Austral Canastero. This evening at our hotel in Puerto Natales
indulge in a delicious seafood dinner before retiring for a good rest.
Friday, April 4 – Saturday, April 5 Torres del Paine
National Park
Head for Torres del Paine National Park via the Laguna Amarga
eastern entrance. Walk to the impressive Towers of Paine granitic formations
with wild Guanacos roaming in the foreground. Black-faced Ibis, Patagonian
Mockingbird, Andean Condor, Black-chested Buzzard Eagle and Cinereous
Harrier are common sights, and even the shy Puma is a possibility in
this area. Then we proceed to the heart of the Park and take our Hosteria
near Pehoe Lake (Hosteria Pehoe) or Serrano River (Hosteria Rio Serrano)
at the base of Paine massif for two nights.
On Saturday devote a full day to exploring the surrounding attractions,
such as the forest trail to Laguna Verde and the Serrano River, which
is world renowned for trout fishing and perhaps our best chance for
finding the handsome Spectacled Duck. In the morning we’d like
to visit Grey Lake, surrounded by primary evergreen beech forest. We
hope to find the fantastic Magellanic Woodpecker. Other attractions
in the area include Southern Wigeon, Torrent Duck, Austral Parakeet,
White-throated Caracara and a Magellanic Tapaculo.
Sunday, April 6 Torres del Paine National Park and return
to Puerto Natales
There’s a small valley near the Paine Towers, a great place for
a hike to a beautiful lagoon, where we will have more opportunities
for wildfowl and raptors. In the afternoon we will drive birding en
route in search of Dark-faced and Cinnamon-bellied ground-tyrants, Black-chinned
Siskin and Patagonian Sierra-Finch southwards back to our hotel in the
attractive town of Puerto Natales.
Monday, April 7 Magellanic Penguins in the morning, then
fly Puerto Arenas/Santiago
Today we drive south towards Punta Arenas and plan to spend some time
along the road looking for rails, seedsnipes, and other waders such
as Rufous-chested Plover and Tawny-throated Dotterel. By midday we will
arrive at a small Magellanic Penguin colony where Giant Petrels patrol
the coastline and Flightless Steamer Duck swim near the shore while
Austral Negritos dot the bare landscape and Sedge Wren might be calling.
After about two hours in this lovely place and having lunch, we will
drive south and catch our flight from Punta Arenas airport to Santiago.
After arrival transfer to our city hotel for two overnights.
Tuesday, April 8 Tupungato Mountain and another quest for
Diademed Sandpiper-Plover
It will be our last full day in Chile, but Ricardo has plans to make
it a day to remember! We leave the capital to the west, following the
course of the fast-flowing Maipo River, where Torrent Ducks can sometimes
be spotted. After skirting grassy pastures, inhabited by diuca-finches,
the road begins to climb towards the high point of Tupungato Mountain
affording spectacular views of the high Andes, which rise from both
sides of the border between Chile and Argentina. Specialized high altitude
birds occur along the roadside. Species to look for include the endemic
Crag Chilia, Greater Yellow-Finch, Grey-flanked Cinclodes, Rufous-banded
Miner, Scale-throated Earthcreeper, Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant and Black-fronted
Ground-Tyrant. At the Embalse El Yeso, a lake formed damming the river,
we’ll search the surrounding cushion-plant bogs for the elusive
mountain wader, the Diademed Sandpiper-Plover. Once again we have no
guarantee of success with this unpredictable bird, but other possibilities
here include South American Snipe, Grey-breasted Seedsnipe, and Sharp-billed
and Cordilleran Canasteros.
Wednesday – Thursday, April 9 - 10 Morning or day
free in Santiago before flights home
Depending on your flight schedule, there will be a free morning or a
full day in Santiago to catch up on notes, relax, or go sightseeing
before transferring to the airport for flights. Santiago is a fascinating
city. Lunch and dinner on our own today.
Reservations: To reserve a place, please mail a deposit of $500
($350 refundable) to:
Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris
20800 Kittredge Road
Saratoga, CA 95070-6322
Telephone: (800) 527-5330
Locally (408) 741-5330
Fax: (408) 741-0358
For questions, comments or reservations,
e-mail us at: info@Cheesemans.com
or use our information form.
Payments & Cancellations: Upon receiving your deposit of $500,
we will send a receipt and trip materials. A second deposit of $1000
will be due April 1, 2007. The final payment will be due on December
15, 2007. Until that date, deposits are refundable except for $150.
This may go toward another tour if reservation is made within six months
after the cancelled trips departure date. There are no refunds given
after the final payment.
Travel Insurance: Unless you specifically decline travel insurance, Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris requires, at a minimum, insurance to cover emergency medical care and evacuation for the duration of the tour. We have had good experience with Access America. Visit their website for complete details and we will also send you their brochure with your trip materials. You can purchase a policy via their website, phone or by mail. If you choose, separate trip cancellation insurance to cover trip costs is also available. Whatever insurance you purchase, be sure to review the terms of all available policies carefully in order to buy the policy that you need.
Flights: Several airlines fly the international sectors.
LanChile flies both the international sectors and the domestic flights
and can be included in one ticket. Estimated fare from the USA is about
$1700, including domestic flights. More info will be available 11 months
before the return date of April 10, when flights can be booked. We will
coordinate the following 5 domestic flights in Chile to assure that
we are all on the same flights: March 24: Santiago/Arica, March 27:
Arica/Santiago, March 30: Santiago/Osorno, April 1: Puerto Montt/Punta
Arenas, April 7: Puerto Arenas/Santiago.
Included: All lodging, meals from lunch on March 23 through breakfast
on April 9, chosen from the regular menu, tours, and transport, except
flights, as in the tour description, all guiding, and baggage handling
for one medium sized soft-sided case per person, all entrance fees and
permissions to national parks and reserves, and the services of Ricardo
Clark. Accommodation will be in excellent tourist hotels with private
facilities. More details on hotel names will be available by January
2007.
Not included: Air tickets and airport taxes, bottled beverages
(except for water and soft drinks with picnic lunches in the field and
water in the cooler on the bus), room service or any other item of a
purely personal nature, items not on the menu of included meals, lunch
and dinner on April 9, and gratuities averaging about $8 per day to
the resident bus driver and local guides.
Concerning Health: We’ll be walking at a slow pace on all
the wildlife outings, but the effects of altitude may make some of the
walks seem more strenuous than the distance would suggest. Consult your
physician about vaccinations and inoculations, etc. Vaccinations and
inoculations are not required to enter Chile. We recommend a Tetanus
shot and Hepatitus A, drinking bottled water or bringing water purification
tablets or a water filter. Bring any medicine, etc. that you require.
Insect bites are not normally a problem, unless you are highly sensitive
to insect bites in which case we recommend 100 mg of B1 vitamin that
works for many people to decrease reaction to bites, such as from mosquitoes
and chiggers.
Luggage: It is important to bring some cool clothes (late summer),
as well as very warm clothes, but it is also important to travel as
light as possible. Laundry service is available at most locations where
we stay at least two nights. Plan to put camera equipment in your carry-on.
If you bring a tri-pod, put it in your checked luggage.
Conservation: Threatened species found in the Neotropics are
numerous. Extensive land clearing, agricultural conversion, and logging,
all magnified by road building and colonization, severely threaten many
regions. By visiting these areas we contribute to sustainable conservation
of these valuable wildlife habitats. We encourage you to donate to wildlife
conservation whenever possible. For international wildlife conservation
join Conservation International (www.conservation.org)
and World Wildlife Fund (www.worldwildlife.org).
Responsibility: Cheesemans’ Ecology Safaris, Saratoga,
California, act only as agents and shall not be responsible or become
liable for any delay incurred by any person in connection with any means
of transportation, nor for the loss, damage, or injury to person or
property by reason of any event beyond the control of the agency or
default of such agency suppliers. We reserve the right to cancel the
tour prior to departure in which case full refund will constitute full
settlement to the passenger. No refund will be made for any unused portion
of the tour unless arrangements are made at the time of booking. All
rates are based on current tariffs, exchange rates and fuel prices and
are subject to adjustment in the event of any change therein. By sending
your initial deposit, you agree to accept our payment schedule as a
contract. If payments are still outstanding two weeks after the due
date, your space may be forfeited. Baggage is at the owner’s risk.
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