The Galapagos Islands
An In-Depth Experience of Nature's Magic
June 29 to July 12, 2009

Imagine exploring a tropical archipelago rich in charismatic wildlife that is totally unafraid of you or your camera. Imagine a special expedition that caters to the pace of nature lovers and photographers, as you follow an incredible itinerary that offers maximum time in the field to one of the world's most intriguing natural history destinations. You'll find all this traveling with two of the best resident natural-history guides in the Galápagos islands and a fantastic crew and captain among endemic landbirds, breeding boobies, albatross, penguins, sea turtles, sharks and much, much more!

Great Frigatebird ©Ted Cheeseman

At a Glance

Cost: $4550. Review cost details.

Group size: 16, plus two resident naturalist guides.

Yacht: Tip Top IV with air-conditioned staterooms, private baths, and hot showers.

Leaders: Elizabeth (Ely) Coral-De Backer and Etienne De Backer.

Conditions: A non-smoking safari for people who are very interested in wildlife (mammals, birds and reptiles) and spending the maximum time in the field.

Update: This itinerary was updated in June 2008. View the plain text version, great for printing!

Synopsis:

• June 29: Depart for Ecuador; overnight in Quito.
• June 30: Fly to Baltra, Galápagos Islands; board the Tip Top IV; first landing at North Seymour
• July 1: Genovesa (Tower) - Prince Phillip's Steps, Darwin Bay with snorkeling
• July 2: Isabela - Punta Vicente Roca, whale watching; Fernandina - Punta Espinoza
• July 3: Isabela - Urvina Bay with snorkeling, panga ride in Elizabeth Bay
• July 4: Floreana - Punta Cormorant and Devil's Crown, Post Office Bay
• July 5: Española (Hood) - Gardner Bay, Punta Suarez with Waved Albatross
• July 6: Santa Cruz - Darwin Research Station, Highlands with Darwin finches
• July 7: Santa Cruz - Jacqueline DeRoy's home, Puerto Ayora; Santa Fé
• July 8: San Cristóbal - Cerro Brujo with snorkeling, Kicker Rock
• July 9: South Plaza; Bartolome - snorkeling around Pinnacle Rock
• July 10: Santa Cruz - Black Turtle Cove; Baltra - flight to Quito
• July 11: Colonial Quito and the archeological museum
• July 12: Departures homeward

Note: All routings and visitor sites while in the Galápagos Islands are subject to change by the Galápagos National Park in an attempt to minimize traffic and impact on all visitor sites.

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Detailed Itinerary

June 29, Monday: Depart for Ecuador; overnight in Quito.
Most flights to Quito arrive in the evening. American Airlines' flight leaves Miami at 4:50 p.m. and arrives in Quito at about 9:00 p.m. There is also a flight from Dallas and connections on Continental via Houston to Quito. At the Quito airport we will have a "meet and greet" person there waiting for you, no matter what time your flight arrives for your transfer from the airport to the hotel. Stay one night at the Hotel Alameda. Dinner on your own this evening if not served on your flight. If you would like to arrive earlier than May 4, we can arrange your airport transfer, which we will also cover, and book extra nights at the Hotel Alameda (cost approximately $105 per room, including breakfast, quoted 2008).
Lodging: Hotel Alameda (also called the Grand Hotel Mercure Alameda Quito)

June 30, Tuesday: Fly to Baltra, Galápagos Islands; board the Tip Top IV; first landing at North Seymour
After an early breakfast, fly from the Quito Airport (flight times and exact fare to be determined by January, 2009) via Guayaquil to the Baltra airport in the Galápagos Islands on TAME. It is necessary to arrive at the Quito Airport at least two hours before the flight. The flight stops in Guayaquil and arrives in the Galápagos in time for a half day at our first landing site, wonderful North Seymour Island. Meet our resident naturalists, Ely and Etienne, on arrival at the Baltra airport. Each visitor then pays the national park fee of US$100 (cash). Transfer by bus to the Baltra dock and board the sixteen-passenger yacht, Tip Top IV, our home for this glorious adventure to the best landings in the Galápagos. After lunch go ashore at North Seymour. We'll have until sunset to wander past many breeding Blue-footed Boobies and a large colony of Magnificent Frigatebirds. The males will be in full display, calling for females with their dramatic inflated red throat pouches, an unforgettable sight with fabulous photography opportunities. We will also see California Sea Lions, Marine Iguanas, Lava Herons, Brown Noddies, Swallow-tailed Gulls, and Lava Gulls. The endemic Palo Santo and low bushy-type Opuntia plants add to the amazing abundance and friendliness of Galápagos wildlife.

Be back on board for a welcome cocktail and first dinner onboard. The chef on the Tip Top IV serves international cuisine and is happy to prepare special dishes to fulfill dietary requests as well. Meet all the members of this very friendly, professional crew this evening, including the captain, first mate, engineer, chef and his assistant, waiter and two sailors. Travel to Genovesa this evening in the outer archipelago. Before dark, it's possible to sight marine mammals and seabirds from the open deck. After dark, look for phosphorescence from ctenophores (comb jellies) and other plankton on the surface of the water. If you're lucky, and still awake, you may even see these tiny invertebrates glowing on dolphins as they bow-ride with the boat after dark. But normally everyone is ready for a good night's sleep soon after talking over the day's highlights and hearing about what to expect at Genovesa (Tower) tomorrow.

Red-billed Tropicbird
©Ted Cheeseman

July 1, Wednesday: Genovesa (Tower) - Prince Phillip's Steps, Darwin Bay with snorkeling
We anchor in Darwin Bay for two landings within a huge flooded volcanic caldera. The walls of the caldera provide wonderful ledges for Galápagos Fur Seals, a very rare fur seal that we will find along their haulout area only in the vicinity of the stone stairway. There are also nesting sites for Red-billed Tropicbirds along the caldera walls. Hike up "Prince Philip's Steps" for very photogenic Red-footed and Masked Booby colonies on the walk to the Wedge-rumped (Galápagos) Storm-Petrel colony. These three species need the open ocean for feeding, so they tend to nest on the outer archipelago. The largest Red-footed Booby nesting site in the islands is here on Genovesa. They are adapted to hunting far out to sea and can only rear a single young every two years. Blue-foots by contrast fish shallow water close to their nests and raise two or three young in a brood if conditions allow. We will also keep a sharp eye out for the elusive Short-eared Owl, who hunts during the day for petrels by hiding within the colony.

Snorkeling in the Galápagos is a very enjoyable experience with so many beautiful species of tropical fish to discover along with the chance of seeing sea turtles and rays. This is a great place for the first snorkel of the trip in the calm caldera waters of Darwin Bay. Ely and Etienne will assist you in the techniques of snorkeling if you have not yet tried this wonderful sport, which we equate to "birding underwater."

The grand finale of this very special day at remote Genovesa is the landing at the small beach in Darwin Bay. Genovesa's four species of Darwin finches, the Large Ground Finch, Large Cactus Finch, Small-beaked Ground Finch and Warbler Finch, show huge variation in bill size. All four species can be found here at this landing, making it one of the two most outstanding sites that we will visit for Darwin finches, the other being the Highlands of Santa Cruz. Noted evolutionary biologist Rosemary Grant has done much of her research on Darwin finches here at Darwin Bay. Also here, boobies and Great Frigates nest with unparalleled density. Following the cliff edge we will find ourselves in a fly-way for incoming boobies and frigates, an ideal opportunity for photographing these magnificent birds in flight. They are ceaseless with aerial displays of kleptoparatisim as they "dog-fight" along the cliffs for scarce nesting material. Tonight we'll travel west to Isabela.

July 2, Thursday: Isabela - Punta Vicente Roca, whale watching; Fernandina - Punta Espinoza
The northwest tip of Isla Isabela sits at the edge of a sharp drop into deep, nutrient rich waters, where Punta Vicente Roca is located. So while cruising Punta Vicente Roca we will be on the lookout for marine mammals and very unusual gigantic Sunfish. Here in the western part of the archipelago in the deep waters off the shelf there is the possibility of seeing Orcas, Pilot Whales, and larger species such as Sperm Whales. A study by Hal Whitehead, with the help of World Wildlife Fund, found Sperm Whales particularly abundant in an area 250 km long and 150 km wide west of Isabela Island where the Cromwell Current, traveling eastward below the Equator, meets land. It is likely that the whales find high densities of squid, their favorite food, in this region. Whitehead found that, like elephants, male Sperm Whales roam between female/calf groups, instead of one male dominating a harem. En route to Fernandina we travel some of the best whale watching water in the Galápagos due to the cold, deep water on the western side of the archipelago.

Across the calm Canal Bolivar, separating Isabela from Fernandina, we will find one of the highlights of the trip at Punta Espinoza. Isla Fernandina is known as one of the world's most pristine islands, where no known introduced animals have become established. Here we will observe and photograph the largest of the Marine Iguanas sunning in piles by the hundreds along with Flightless Cormorants, Galápagos Hawks, Galápagos Penguins, and Brachycereus cactus growing directly out of bare rock that still seems like fresh lava. Snorkeling is no longer allowed to protect the rich basalt coastline covered with algae that the Marine Iguanas depend on for their food. This evening the Tip Top IV will be mostly at anchor, as our landing tomorrow is not far, just down the west coast of Isabela.

Marine Iguana ©Ted Cheeseman

July 3, Friday: Isabela - Urvina Bay with snorkeling, panga ride in Elizabeth Bay
In 1954, a portion of the coast of Isabela lifted out of the sea so suddenly that fish and even a sea turtle were trapped high and dry on a freshly changed coastline. We will explore this unusual site at Urvina Bay at the foot of Volcan Alcedo. One can find rocks full of bleached shells and massive coral heads now far from the sea. Here also live giant iguanas of both species, land and marine, as well as a few Giant Tortoises, the species for which the Galápagos Islands were named. At Urvina Bay, we will be snorkeling in some of the coldest water of the trip, but there is also great potential for discovery.

After lunch, we arrive at Elizabeth Bay one of the most spectacular locations for panga cruising in the archipelago. We will join the swimming sea turtles as we cruise this paradise, following channels through the verdant green mangrove forests. Here the endemic Flightless Cormorants and the marvelous Galápagos Penguins are in their prime habitat. Tonight the Tip Top IV will cruise through rich whale feeding areas on the way to Floreana.

July 4, Saturday: Floreana - Punta Cormorant and Devil's Crown, Post Office Bay
Floreana is known for its excellent snorkeling, especially at the dramatic submerged volcanic cone known as Devil's Crown. We normally see many rays, sea turtles, jacks and other tropical fish. Either before or after an excellent snorkeling experience, we will land behind Punta Cormorant for a walk along the flamingo lagoon in search of teal and shorebirds alongside the flamingoes. The plant life is unique with another species of the endemic composite Scalesia. The sand on Floreana contains a large proportion of fine olivine crystals, a glassy volcanic mineral, giving it an olive-green tone. The waters around Floreana are great for dolphins so keep your eyes open! These waters are also rich with seabirds, such as Waved Albatross, three species of storm-petrels, Audubon's Shearwaters and large flocks of diving boobies. After lunch we'll stop briefly at Post Office Bay, where you can follow in the whalers' tradition of dropping a letter or postcard in the box and taking one to deliver for someone else who already was here. Then we will head east for wonderful, amazing Española!

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July 5, Sunday: Española (Hood) - Gardner Bay, Punta Suarez with Waved Albatross
Gardner Bay on Española (Hood Island) is one of the most beautiful beaches in all of the Galápagos. Sea lions populate the surf while the remarkably brave Española Mockingbird pecks at your shoelaces. We can photograph shorebirds and playful sea lions, look for the Large Cactus Finch (which looks very different from the subspecies elsewhere), or just walk the beautiful beach. After enjoying the morning on the beach, we'll explore the fine snorkeling nearby at Tortuga Rock, where sea lions playfully show off their aquatic prowess. A large diversity of fish can also be found congregating along the steep cinder cone reef walls.

At Punta Suarez, we will get to experience one of the great highlights of the Galápagos: the Waved Albatross. In the afternoon they tend to be most active, so it is the best time of day to make our landing and we hope to find them active with courtship behavior. Observing and photographing the beautiful Waved Albatross in an unforgettable experience, and with luck we will be witness to a courtship dance. In June the albatross are well into their breeding season. Young adults and birds that have recently paired will be displaying, a most enticing expression of the lifelong bond that their breeding and survival depends upon. We will also find the fearless Española Mockingbird, Blue-footed and Masked Boobies, Swallow-tailed Gull, Galápagos Hawk, Marine Iguana (a red and black race unique to this island), Lava Lizard, sea lions, beautiful seascapes, a blowhole and much more. The albatross become more active as the afternoon wanes, so we will extend our stay as long as possible.

Giant Tortoise ©Ted Cheeseman

July 6, Monday: Santa Cruz - Darwin Research Station, Highlands with Darwin finches
In order to visit the Charles Darwin Research Station beside the bustling small town of Puerto Ayora, we will anchor in Academy Bay. At the east end of town sits the research station, the center of evolutionary science and conservation in the Galápagos. We will see the many resident tortoises, hopefully including the famous Lonesome George (last surviving tortoise of the Isla Pinta race), along with intimate looks at the captive breeding programs that are working to return the Galápagos to a more pristine, pre-colonization state. In the research station we will have one of our best opportunities to photograph tortoises up close. We will also have some free time in Puerto Ayora to explore, shop, or treat ourselves to an ice cream. At lunch onshore in Puerto Ayora enjoy talking with a guest scientist from the Charles Darwin Research Station.

In the afternoon we travel to the Santa Cruz Highlands to seek some of the elusive island endemics in beautifully unique habitats. We will explore Los Gemelos in the highlands, two incredible volcanic sinkholes surrounded by tall Scalesia forest. This is excellent habitat for some of the highland Darwin finches. The genus Scalesia is a classic example of adaptive radiation in the plant world, a parallel to the Darwin finches. The elegant tall Scalesia tree evolved from beach composites, essentially the world's largest daisy. Here it is possible to see the shy Galápagos Rail, Short-eared Owl, Large and Small Tree Finches, Vegetarian Finch, and Woodpecker Finch, the famous tool user. We will also walk through wonderful lava tubes left from Santa Cruz's active volcanic island-building days. Dinner this evening is at one of the restaurants on Santa Cruz while our crew enjoys time with their families, as most of them live in Puerto Ayora.

July 7, Tuesday: Santa Cruz - Jacqueline DeRoy's home, Puerto Ayora; Santa Fé
This morning we will visit with Jacqueline DeRoy, Tui DeRoy's mother, who is a silversmith and one of the original settlers in Puerto Ayora. There are many birds in this part of town and Jacqueline likes to keep the local passerines well fed at her bird feeders. Set sail for Santa Fé to have a full afternoon at this fascinating, small island. From the beach it's well worth the hike up the hilly trail, where a beautiful species of Scalesia thrives near a large forest of amazing Tree Opuntia. We will search among the Opuntia for Santa Fé Land Iguanas, a different species from those elsewhere in the Galápagos.

July 8, Wednesday: San Cristóbal - Cerro Brujo with snorkeling, Kicker Rock
San Cristobal (Chatham Island) is geologically one of the oldest islands, reflected by its eroded volcanic peaks in the north and densely vegetated slopes in the south. The town of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno is the capital of Galápagos Province. San Cristobal bears the name of the Patron Saint of seafarers, St. Christopher. Its English name was given after the English nobleman Count Chatham. This 558-sq-km island is the fifth largest in the archipelago and has the second largest population. Around this island, look for frigatebirds, sea lions, Green Turtles, Blue and Red-footed boobies, tropicbirds, Marine Iguanas, Swallow-tailed Gulls and dolphins. Its vegetation includes Calandrina Galápagos, Lecocarpus Darwinii, trees such as Lignum Vitae, and Matazarna. This morning we will make a wet landing at Cerro Brujo, one of the first sites visited by Charles Darwin. It is a beautiful white sand beach with Brown Pelicans, Blue-footed Boobies, California Sea Lions and Marine Iguanas. An onshore version of nearby Kicker Rock, Cerro Brujo is a very striking, eroded tuff cone. Also enjoy a good snorkel here.

No landing is possible at Kicker Rock. A panga ride around this tuff cone formation gives you the opportunity to see Masked Boobies, Blue-footed Boobies, and frigatebirds along the cliffs. Kicker Rock is a remnant of a vertical tuff conformation, abruptly rising almost 500 ft from the ocean. Erosion has split the rock and given it its characteristic shape which some see as resembling a shoe, the origin of the name Kicker Rock. Others see it as a sleeping sea lion or Leon Dormido in Spanish.

July 9, Thursday: South Plaza; Bartolome - snorkeling around Pinnacle Rock
We go ashore early at South Plaza. This incredible island will allow us opportunities to see Land Iguanas pose obligingly for photos. Compare the Cactus Finch alongside Small and Medium Ground Finches, stars of the excellent book, The Beak of the Finch, the story of modern-day Darwinian evolution as deciphered by pioneers Rosemary and Peter Grant. At the top of the island we come to a cliff where bachelor sea lions escape from the competition of their stronger males and Red-billed Tropicbirds fly gracefully by, circling again and again before slipping into their cliff-side nest holds at our feet.

This afternoon climb the trail (360 ft) to the summit of Bartolomé for a classic Galápagos postcard-perfect view of Pinnacle Rock. Galápagos Penguins are often present in small numbers near Pinnacle Rock. Also this afternoon, enjoy our last snorkel around the rock, perhaps with Galápagos Penguins and maybe even harmless, but exciting, White-tipped Sharks.

Snorkeling with Sea Lions ©Ted Cheeseman

July 10, Friday: Santa Cruz - Black Turtle Cove; Baltra - flight to Quito
Black Turtle Cove is always a spectacular panga cruise with many boobies feeding in the vicinity and Green Turtles and rays inside the very protected cove, a wonderful finale to the trip. By mid-morning the Tip Top IV will circumnavigate Daphne Major (as we are not allowed to land here) where the Grants did the majority of their research on Darwin finches. We must reluctantly depart for Baltra and the flight in the afternoon back to Quito, arriving in the late afternoon. This evening we'll have a special Ecuadorian farewell dinner at a restaurant up Panecillo Hill for a spectacular view of Quito and a short "Quito-by-Night" tour.
Lodging: Hotel Alameda

July 11, Saturday: Colonial Quito and the archeological museum
Enjoy a morning tour of colonial Quito departing by 9:00 a.m. We will explore the most spectacular of the Spanish-style architecture in downtown Quito and visit the very interesting Archaelogy Museum, which houses the largest Pre-Inca archaeological collection in Ecuador. Lunch and dinner on your own and afternoon free to rest or explore the city further.
Lodging: Hotel Alameda

July 12, Sunday: Depart for home
American Airlines has AM departures to arrive in Dallas or Miami in time to connect with flights homeward. Arrive more than two hours before flight to check-in. Continental has a good flight schedule via Houston. All airport transfers are included.

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Costs

Costs, Payments and Cancellations: Upon receiving your deposit, we will send complete trip materials. Deposits are refundable before the final payment date, except for $150. The $150 may go toward another tour if a reservation is made within six months of the departure date of this trip. There are no refunds given after the final payment date. Trip cancellation insurance applications are available. Trip options, if any, and singles are extra.

Included: All bottled beverages onboard are included (except alcoholic beverages).

Not Included: All airfare. Gratuities. Dinner and lunches are not included in Quito, except for dinner on July 10. Alcoholic beverages. The Galápagos National Park fee (US$100 for adults and US$50 for children under 12 paid in cash on arrival in Baltra). Tourist fee (US$10) and the airport departure tax (approximately US$40 from Ecuador). Governmental Fuel Tax. Travel Insurance.

Airfare: You arrange and pay for your roundtrip airfare from your home to Quito, approximately $900, depending on origin. We make reservations for your Quito-Baltra-Quito flight on TAME, costing approximately $405 (price per adult, quoted June 2008, subject to change), this cost will be added to your final payment.

Gratuities: Tipping is, of course, discretionary, however we suggest budgeting $250 total for gratuities. This includes roughly $200 for the voyage (or about $18 per day for 11 days), which covers both the crew and Ely. Our Tour Leader (not a tipped position), Etienne, will collect the gratuity at the end of the sail in Galápagos and divide it accordingly. The Quito airport porters and the hotel porters are covered, as well as tips for the farewell dinner. On the Quito tour we recommend a $5 tip for the half-day tour ($4 to the guide, and $1 to the driver).

Governmental Fuel Tax: Effective June 1, 2008 the government of Ecuador is adding a diesel fuel tax to all vessels purchasing in excess of 4,000 gallons of fuel per month. Oil being one of Ecuador's primary products on the world market, they have always previously opted to subsidize prices within the country, rather than tax them. This tax has therefore caught everyone by surprise, causing an adjustment to tour costs. The current tax on our departures is $24 per day, or $260 total per person for the voyage. While we truly hope there will be no further fuel taxes, we cannot be sure where the government's new policy will go next. This fuel tax will be added to the final trip balance.

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Other Details

Leaders: Etienne (ET) De Backer and Elizabeth (Ely) Coral-De Backer are an outstanding husband and wife team. They will give daily lectures on natural history and gather onboard in the evenings to recount the day's wonderful encounters and enlighten you with expectations for the landings and possible snorkel the following day. They will ensure that you are ashore by 6:30am to enhance viewing and photographic opportunities, rather than at 8:30am as with most groups.

Etienne (ET) De Backer is our tour leader. He has a doctorate in biology plus a decade of work experience in his native Belgium. He set out (in his mid-30's) to further explore the world through numerous countries and across the seven continents, with the Galápagos Islands ultimately becoming his new home in 1985. Since that time Etienne has been a licensed guide or expedition leader on nearly every yacht in the Galápagos, in addition to lecturing and leading groups in both the rainforest and on Antarctica. He speaks 5 languages. Etienne's wife and son are licensed Naturalist Guides in the Galápagos as well.

ET will be assisted by his wife, Elizabeth (Ely) Coral-De Backer. She was born and raised in Guayaquil, Ecuador. In 1980, following college, she moved to Puerto Ayora in the Galápagos Islands, where she has made her home since that time. Originally working with the Galápagos National Park in the introduced plant eradication programs, she then went to work at the Charles Darwin Station, accompanying herpetologists, ornithologists and botanists in their fieldwork. She began guiding in 1982 and is fluent in four languages, and conversational in an additional four. She met her husband, Etienne, in 1985 and they live and work together in Galápagos.

During holidays they like to venture to other places for nature adventures and come back refreshed and ready to enjoy more adventures at home. They have both led photo oriented tours and will do their utmost to get you ashore for the best morning light and stay out on the PM landings for the best late afternoon action. They understand that you are eager to enjoy maximum time possible on the landings and out snorkeling, while staying within the time allowed by the national park for each landing and snorkel. They are very conscientious about following the guidelines set up by the national park to protect the unique Galápagos habitats and all the amazing endemic species that thrive there.

The Tip Top IV

Yacht: The Tip Top IV carries 16 passengers in ten cabins. Each cabin with private bathroom (toilet, shower, wash basin and vanity), locker and drawers. Bar, dining room, saloon and sun deck. All cabins and public areas are fully carpeted. Berths slide together to make a double bed if requested. View the deck plan and more details.

Reservations: Please contact us to assure space availability and to let us answer your questions. Then, print and fill out our reservation form, and mail it to us with your deposit:

Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris
20800 Kittredge Road
Saratoga, CA 95070
Toll Free: (800) 527-5330
Local: (408) 741-5330
Fax: (408) 741-0358
Email: info@cheesemans.com

Mailing List: If you would like to be on our mailing list or request information, please use our online information request form or send us your name, address, email address and phone number. Please note we will never share your personal information with anybody!

Travel Insurance: There are many types of travel insurance, including emergency medical insurance (cheap) and trip cancellation insurance (expensive). Be sure to compare benefits and exclusions carefully so you will purchase the policy that you desire and need. Read our recommendations and requirements.

Responsibility: Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris, Saratoga, California, act only as agents and shall not be responsible or become liable for any delay incurred by any person in connection with any means of transportation, nor for the loss, damage, or injury to person or property by reason of any event beyond the control of the agency or default of such agency suppliers. We reserve the right to cancel the tour prior to departure in which case full refund will constitute full settlement to the passenger. No refund will be made for any unused portion of the tour unless arrangements are made at the time of booking. All rates are based on current tariffs and exchange rates and are subject to adjustment in the event of any change therein. By sending your initial deposit, you agree to accept our payment schedule as a contract. If payments are still outstanding two weeks after the due date, your space may be forfeited. Baggage is at the owner's risk.
All material copyright Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris 2006-2008

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All material © Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris.
All photos © Doug or Ted Cheeseman, unless otherwise credited.
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