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South Georgia and the
Falkland Islands Expedition
October 18 to November 11, 2012

More testimonials.

This special in-depth expedition is the product of our many years of experience leading expeditions to South Georgia and our passion for everything it has to offer. Our itinerary is specifically designed to take advantage of the vibrant early season on South Georgia when snow blankets the mountains and early summer brings wildlife treats seldom experienced. Explore vast colonies of King Penguins, Elephant Seals in their peak of breeding activity, and colonies of Wandering, Grey-headed, Light-mantled Sooty, and Black-browed albatross. The landscape of glaciers pouring into the sea and snow-capped peaks provides rare beauty and photogenic impressiveness that words cannot convey. Voyage aboard the MV Ushuaia for an amazing ten to eleven days in South Georgia, the most beautiful and wildlife-rich island on the planet! Return to the Falkland Islands (Malvinas) for three days of exploring more temperate breeding colonies and enjoy great species diversity. Our priority is to give you the maximum of time possible in the field, including early landings for great morning light, at a special time of year on South Georgia. Our experts in wildlife photography, ecology, biology, and South Georgia natural and human history will add to your experience with lectures and workshops both onboard and ashore. Explore at your own pace with ample leadership for your enrichment and assistance when you want it. Come with us to discover why South Georgia is considered the "Crown Jewel of the Antarctic."

Read about the historical aspects of this expedition.

King Penguins, South Georgia Island
King Penguins

At a Glance

Cost: $9,650 to $16,650 per person, double occupancy, depending on cabin choice. Review cost details.

Leaders and staff: Ted Cheeseman is our Expedition Leader, along with an Expedition Staff of ten more, including a Ship's Doctor and professional photographers. Plus the M/V Ushuaia officers and hotel staff includes Hotel Manager, Assistant Hotel Manager, Bartender, Head Chef and Sous-chefs, and the hardworking crew of the Ushuaia.

Group Size: 74 participants, plus our expedition staff of eleven and the Captain and crew of the Ushuaia.

Days: 25 total, with 10 to 11 days in South Georgia and 3 days in the Falkland Islands.

Conditions: This is a non-smoking expedition for people who are very interested in all wildlife and spending the maximum time in the field.

Update: This itinerary was updated in December 2010. View the plain text version, great for printing!

Synopsis:

October 18 - 19 Fly to Santiago, Chile; arrive by October 19 for overnight in Santiago.
October 20 Fly to Stanley, Falkland Islands, a quaint English town; embark on the MV Ushuaia.
October 21 - 22 Cruise the South Scotia Sea to South Georgia across the Antarctic "Polar Front".
October 23 - November 2 South Georgia! Ten to eleven days in a wildlife extravaganza.
November 3 - 5 Cruise northwest to the Falkland Islands.
November 6 - 8 Three days in the Falklands at private reserves on three islands, including Steeple Jason.
November 9 Cruise south to Ushuaia, Argentina.
November 10 - 11 Disembark in Ushuaia; flights home via or Buenos Aires, Argentina or Santiago, Chile.

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Distinguishing Features

Below are a few aspects of our South Georgia expedition that make it truly unique.

Watching Elephant Seals
Watching Elephant Seals

  • More Landings: 10 to 11 days in South Georgia, so we will make more landings than shorter trips and also have more opportunities to land at key sites that are highly weather dependant, such as St. Andrew's Bay. Starting in Stanley shortens our time at sea, allowing for these extra landing days in South Georgia.
  • Abundant Time Ashore: Early landings offer great light for photography, and, unless we change sites at lunch, we have the option of bag lunches on shore so you can be in the field all day. Having many Zodiac drivers lessens your wait time and allows flexibility to return when you wish.
  • Unique Timing for Wildlife and Scenery: We have selected these dates very carefully to correspond with the truly amazing peak of the elephant seal breeding season yet before the start of fur seal breeding season, giving us great action and visits to sites otherwise made inaccessible by fur seals. The landscape is stunning this time of year with snow still covering the ground in most places.
  • Ideal Group Size: 74 participants gives a more intimate experience and allows everyone to land at the same time, yet is large enough to have many leaders, ensuring more expertise and variety.
  • Best Ship: The Ushuaia is perfect for this expedition because of it's size and draft, small enough to get in close to shore for more protected landings, more stable anchorages, and shorter Zodiac rides.
  • Flexibility of Full Charter: We charter the entire ship for a cohesive group and maximum flexibility with operations. The Captain and Expedition Leader work closely together to determine the best landing sites based on the conditions so we can maximize our time in South Georgia.
  • Expert Leadership: Our leaders have extensive experience in the Southern Ocean and are passionate about sharing the best of it with you. Great leaders really make a difference!
  • Photography Workshops: Our professional photographers will conduct a series of photography workshops and seminars onboard and in the field, making this expedition an unparalleled opportunity to improve your photographic techniques and capture the best images of your life.
  • Accessible Expedition Leader: Feel free to call our office and speak directly to Ted Cheeseman, Expedition Leader.
  • Great Value: We have an excellent leader to participant ratio (1:7) and our expeditions consistently cost less per day than other tours.
  • Passionate About Conservation: We are concerned about protecting the polar environments and support many conservation efforts. We are full members of IAATO, an organization that advocates, promotes, and practices safe and environmentally responsible travel to the Antarctic.

Detailed Itinerary

October 18 - 19, Thursday - Friday International Flights to Santiago, Chile
Arrive in Santiago, Chile (SCL) by October 19. Non-stop flights are available from many international airports; most are overnight flights arriving in the early morning. Transfer to our hotel across from the airport and then enjoy a free day to explore historic and colorful Santiago.
Lodging: Santiago Airport Holiday Inn

October 20, Saturday Fly from Santiago to Stanley for embarkation
Fly from Santiago to Stanley, the capital of the Falkland Islands, arriving in the early afternoon. We will be met at Mount Pleasant Airport and transferred to the dock where the MV Ushuaia will await. You will have time to walk through town and explore this small corner of the English empire that appears as if time has forgotten it. Stanley is an attractive town and the last center of human population we will see before arriving in Ushuaia, Argentina at the voyage's end. We will enjoy a welcome cocktail with our Captain and our fine staff and crew, as well as our first dinner onboard ship before departing for South Georgia!

Gold Harbour, South Georgia Island
Gold Harbour, South Georgia

October 21 - 22, Sunday - Monday At sea southeast to South Georgia
Arrival time at South Georgia will depend on weather conditions and could be as early as the morning of the 23rd or as late as into the 24th. One of the most remote islands in the world, South Georgia is the heart of this expedition, as we spend ten to eleven days in this wild landscape of penguins, albatross and seals. The mountainous rugged interior, a geologic continuation of the Andes chain, is carved by more than 150 glaciers into spectacular fjords and is ringed by smaller islands. South Georgia has incredible possibilities for landings all along the northeastern, leeward coastline, the focus of our exploration during these days.

The timing of this voyage is carefully chosen to experience South Georgia in a seldom seen but extremely vibrant time. Our itinerary makes the most of our time in South Georgia by paying close attention to the changes in breeding seasons, particularly of Antarctic Fur Seals and Southern Elephant Seals. The peak of fur seal breeding is in November and December, when males stake out territories in the northern reaches of the island at densities so high that travel ashore becomes both dangerous and disruptive. Meanwhile the peak of Southern Elephant Seal breeding is in October, and, during this time, the world's largest seals vie to be "beachmasters," dominating stretches of beach where females come to pup. We will make it a priority to experience this! We therefore plan to land in the northern part of the island first, for an introduction and a chance at some of the special sites that will become unavailable to us once fur seals are in the height of their breeding. Then we will travel south to experience the scale and density of breeding colonies in sites such as St. Andrews Bay and Gold Harbour. From there, we will take our time exploring back northward, absorbing the great richness and variety offered by South Georgia to voyagers so fortunate as ourselves. There is even a chance that we will circumnavigate the island for a truly thorough exploration of this crown jewel of the great Southern Ocean!

We are, of course, on an expedition cruise where the weather and sea conditions will determine our daily schedule; the next day's plan will be handed out and discussed each evening. The Captain and Expedition Leader work closely together to determine the best landing sites based on the conditions, always keeping safety as the highest priority. If there is a change in plan due to rough seas at one location, the decision is usually made before participants have even awoken, so that another wonderful alternative has already been arranged (and announced during the wake up call) and no landing or time on shore is sacrificed. If we are faced with stubborn seas, we will be persistent and make multiple attempts to land at the key sites in more exposed locations. The other advantage to traveling at this time of year is that there are very few other ships in the region and we usually have our pick of landing sites.

Beachmaster, Southern Elephant Seal, South Georgia
Southern Elephant Seal
The Beachmaster

October 23 - November 2, Tuesday to the following Friday South Georgia Island
Arrival time at South Georgia will depend on weather conditions and could be as early as the morning of the 23rd or as late as into the 24th. One of the most remote islands in the world, South Georgia is the heart of this expedition, as we spend ten to eleven days in this wild landscape of penguins, albatross and seals. The mountainous rugged interior, a geologic continuation of the Andes chain, is carved by more than 150 glaciers into spectacular fjords and is ringed by smaller islands. South Georgia has incredible possibilities for landings all along the northeastern, leeward coastline, the focus of our exploration during these days.

The timing of this voyage is carefully chosen to experience South Georgia in a seldom seen but extremely vibrant time. Our itinerary makes the most of our time in South Georgia by paying close attention to the changes in breeding seasons, particularly of Antarctic Fur Seals and Southern Elephant Seals. The peak of fur seal breeding is in November and December, when males stake out territories in the northern reaches of the island at densities so high that travel ashore becomes both dangerous and disruptive. Meanwhile the peak of Southern Elephant Seal breeding is in October, and, during this time, the world's largest seals vie to be "beachmasters," dominating stretches of beach where females come to pup. We will make it a priority to experience this! We therefore plan to land in the northern part of the island first, for an introduction and a chance at some of the special sites that will become unavailable to us once fur seals are in the height of their breeding. Then we will travel south to experience the scale and density of breeding colonies in sites such as St. Andrews Bay and Gold Harbour. From there, we will take our time exploring back northward, absorbing the great richness and variety offered by South Georgia to voyagers so fortunate as ourselves. There is even a chance that we will circumnavigate the island for a truly thorough exploration of this crown jewel of the great Southern Ocean!

We are, of course, on an expedition cruise where the weather and sea conditions will determine our daily schedule; the plan for the next day will be handed out and discussed each evening onboard. The Captain and Expedition Leader work closely together to determine the best landing sites based on the conditions, always keeping safety as the highest priority. If there is a change in plan due to rough seas at one location, the decision is usually made before participants have even awoken, so that another wonderful alternative has already been arranged (and announced during the wake up call) and no landing or time on shore is sacrificed. If we are faced with stubborn seas, we will try and try again to make landings at key sites in these more exposed locations.

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We are full
Members of IAATO

Read more about each of our potential landing sites in South Georgia:

  • Elsehul and Undine Harbour
  • Right Whale Bay
  • Salisbury Plain
  • Prion Island
  • Fortuna Bay
  • Shackleton walk to Stromness
  • Hercules Bay
  • Grytviken and King Edward Point
  • Godhul
  • Ocean harbour
  • St. Andrews Bay
  • Gold Harbour
  • Royal Bay
  • Cooper Bay
  • Drygalski fjord and Larsen harbour
  • Cape Disappointment

November 3 - 5, Saturday to Monday At sea, northwest to the Falkland Islands
Sadly, we must bid farewell to magnificent South Georgia as its last islets slip astern. Yet even as we leave, the wildlife opportunities are far from over. We may find whales and will certainly see many seals in the near-island waters. Now familiar seabirds will make fine companions for our travel to the northwest. We will pay attention to ocean temperature with interest to see if the polar front has shifted during our stay on South Georgia. We can also take this chance to rest a bit after many long days in the field, catch up on reading, photo editing, and learning more about the unique Antarctic environment through a lecture series onboard.

Black-browed Albatross at Steeple Jason
Black-browed Albatross at Steeple Jason

November 6 - 8, Tuesday to Thursday The Falkland Islands
We will spend three full days on the best islands (of the over 300 in the Falklands) for wildlife viewing and photography. This British colony approximately 300 miles east of South America and 700 miles north of Antarctica has a temperate but often overcast climate. We hope to enjoy some of their rare Austral summer sunshine. On Sea Lion Island, Steeple Jason Island, and Carcass Island, highlights will be three species of penguins in their colonies: Rockhoppers, Magellanics, and Gentoos. We will walk to seek out the Magellanics and land birds of the Falklands, species that are not to be found on South Georgia. We must pay close attention to staying out of the areas that contain many fragile prion burrows on Carcass Island and Southern Giant Petrels nests on Steeple Jason.

Having left the Antarctic conditions of South Georgia for the temperate Falklands, we will find lower abundance but higher diversity of species. We should see most of the birds of the Falklands, including the fantastic flightless Steamer Ducks, Ruddy-headed Goose, shorebirds, caracaras, and passerines such as Tussock-bird, Dark-faced Ground Tyrant, Long-tailed Meadowlark, and Black-throated Finch. The Black-browed Albatross will be nesting high in the cliffs where we will have amazing views of them courting atop their conical mud nests. South American Fur Seal are also a good possibility, although their numbers have been declining. Highlights include the Peale's and Commerson's dolphins that occasionally bow ride on the ship or even alongside the Zodiacs going from ship to shore and back.

Blue-eyed Shags on New Island
Blue-eyed Shags on New Island

These islands are privately owned and open to ecotourism on a very limited basis. Sea Lion Island has the best species diversity of the islands we will visit. The owners of these islands are keenly working to protect the resident wildlife.

Steeple Jason, the outermost northwest island, is a reserve now owned by the New York Zoological Society. The main attraction here is the largest colony of Black-browed Albatross in the world! The vast colony of albatross is mind-boggling. We are saving an indisputable wildlife highlight of the world for one of our very last full days of landings. Many other Falkland specialties are here also and, to add excitement, gangs of Striated Caracara or "Johnny Rook" patrol the slopes looking for something to scavenge or maybe your hat to steal. Landings are always subject to weather conditions, so we will hope for calm weather characteristic of this season.

November 9, Friday Southbound to Ushuaia, Argentina
Avid seafarers will be on the bridge and stern to spot whales, dolphins, and seabirds during our last short ocean crossing. Sheltered from the circumpolar current by the bulk of South America, this passage is usually calm. We will celebrate a farewell Captain's dinner this evening and recap the magnificent experiences of the voyage with a group slide show of images from our voyage.

November 10 - 11, Saturday to Sunday Disembark in Ushuaia and flights homeward
By early morning on Saturday, we will dock in Ushuaia where we will be reluctant to say goodbye to our spirited shipmates! Disembark the ship after breakfast and transfer to the airport for flights back to Buenos Aires, Santiago, or to other connections homeward. Our outfitters in Ushuaia, Rumbo Sur, will collect the checked luggage in their luggage van to be checked at the Ushuaia Airport. If you wish to stay for a time in South America, we can help you with arrangements.

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Potential South Georgia Landing Sites

Elsehul and Undine Harbour Our first landings in South Georgia will be at some of the favorite breeding sites of the male Antarctic Fur Seals; in as little as a week or two, these beaches will be covered with territorial males charged on testosterone. Elsehul is a perfect example and it is the only location where we will be able to see the beautiful Grey-headed Albatross nesting. They are the first albatross to lay eggs, so we are sure find them sitting on nests looking out over the dramatic cove of Elsehul. They sit in the tussock grass above a prime fur seal breeding beach, and, at this date, the seals should not be so territorial as to refuse our passage. The opportunity for up-close views of Grey-headed Albatross on their nests is one that few can hope for in a lifetime of travel. Black-browed Albatross also nest here, along with Macaroni, Gentoo, and King penguins; we can expect to see Gentoos on nests in the saddle between Elsehul and south-facing Undine Harbour. One trip our expedition staff even spotted a Wandering Albatross chick nesting further inland and took a few eager photographers trekking up for a closer look – a very special treat! These two little sheltered coves sit on the northwestern extremity of South Georgia on the eastern side of the rugged Paryadin Peninsula. The peninsula blocks the strong westerly winds of the Southern Ocean with 400-meter high walls of ancient sedimentary rocks, folded and stacked during the formation of the Andes.

Right Whale Bay Right Whale Bay has dramatic scenery to provide a fabulous backdrop for wildlife photography. Groups of penguins pose together on a vast sheet of snow reaching far back from the black beach before the mountains rise to a conspicuous peak. Antarctic Fur Seals are just beginning to set up territories here while male Southern Elephant Seals exchange deep bellowing roars as they proclaim their dominance over the groups of females and pups. On the east side of this sharply walled cove, a colony of King Penguins stretches from the beach up into the tussock grass inland. Hundreds of chicks eagerly await the return of their parents who have been out fishing. If you sit down quietly, you may find yourself the subject of penguin curiosity as one brave individual might try to see if your shoelaces will detach with a tug. There are great opportunities for action shots as adults come in out of the surf and trek up to the colony to feed their young. A small waterfall pours out of the interior of the island and is worth the walk, navigating through seals and penguins, down to the end of the beach.

King Penguin Colony at Salisbury Plains on South Georgia
King Penguin Colony at Salisbury Plains

Salisbury Plain 60,000 pairs of King Penguins call this glacial plain home, making it a beloved site for all and any who explore South Georgia. Salisbury is located in the Bay of Isles, looking out on the Wandering Albatross breeding islands of Prion and Albatross. If you sit down quietly, you may find yourself the subject of King Penguin curiosity as one brave individual might try to see if your shoelaces will detach with a tug. Kings have a split breeding season, where each adult's activities are dependent upon what they did the season before. Those who had no chick or an early fledging chick the previous season will now be found courting and mating. These birds have the best chances of a successful chick this year. Hopefully snow will still be on the ground around the colony, a canvas of white upon which the penguins walk. The Kings share the beach with fur seals and elephant seals, and many a Giant Petrel will be patrolling the shores for the penguins that did not make it through the winter.

Wandering Albatross, Prion Island
Wandering Albatross on Prion Island

Prion Island We will have an unforgettable experience on Prion Island in the Bay of Isles. This island has great conservation value, as it is an important nesting site for the Wandering Albatross. Each pair has a private estate with open space of at least 30 square meters around the nest site for courtship, take-offs, and landings – a real contrast with the King Penguin's territory of less than one square meter. Southern Giant Petrels also nest here and will remain quietly incubating as long as you keep your distance. Tragically the Wandering Albatross are declining rapidly in number, disappearing at sea due to illegal pirate fishing vessels mining "white gold," as the Chilean Seabass or Patagonia Toothfish is sometimes called. We will tread very lightly during our visit to Prion Island in respect for the albatross and petrels and for the sake of the burrow-nesting birds that make their homes on this rat-free island. The charming South Georgia Pipit, world's southernmost passerine (perching bird) and an endemic species, will look upon us curiously, singing a rare songbird's tune. Our visit to Prion comes just before the young over-wintering albatross fledge, to start years of seafaring life before finally returning here as young adults with hopes of breeding.

Fortuna Bay At this beautiful site in the lee of the central rib of South Georgia's impressive mountains, we have good chances for clear skies and calm conditions. Fortuna Bay ends in a glacial alluvial plain covered with a fine grass upon which a beautifully photogenic King Penguin colony resides. There should also still be plenty of snow on the ground in many places for the more "natural-looking" penguin background. If King Penguins spread across what appears to be a lawn isn't an unusual enough sight, a heard of reindeer trotting through will surely make for a surprising juxtaposition. Norwegian whalers introduced reindeer to South Georgia during the whaling period, two herds of which thrive with no predators or competition from other herbivores. They do some damage to burrow-nesting seabirds but here at Fortuna, we can hope to see nesting Light-mantled Sooty Albatross on steep tussock slopes where the reindeer do not roam.

Shackleton Walk to Stromness Throughout our voyage, the history of Antarctic exploration will come alive as we listen to accounts of the adventures of Sir Ernest Shackleton. This famous explorer crossed the rugged backbone of South Georgia from the west to arrive at the Stromness seeking help for his men stranded on Elephant Island. Their ship, the Endurance, was crushed by ice in the Weddell Sea. Shackleton and his men set off in small boats and landed at Elephant Island with hardly any landing room below the steep cliffs along the shore. From there, Shackleton and a handful of men continued in the pint-sized James Caird to South Georgia, returning to Elephant Island 105 days later to rescue the men. The crew of the Endurance, hand picked by Sir Ernest Shackleton in England for his 1914-1917 expedition to the South Pole, survived on the nutritious, though unappetizing, meat of penguins and seals while waiting for rescue on Elephant Island. Shackleton, Crean, and Worsley were very near the end of their dramatic and perilous self-rescue when they stumbled down into Fortuna Bay from the interior of the island. They had just one short hike remaining, a westward walk of about three miles over to Stromness Harbour to reunite with civilization after over 17 months in the Antarctic. This very enjoyable historic walk will take us over a 300-meter ridge with a stunning view across the König Glacier and down to the now rusting inactive whaling station at Stromness to reunite with our ship and the participants that prefer to skip the hike and enjoy the cruise. In Stromness Harbour, you can see the remnants of three old whaling stations. A Zodiac cruise near Stromness will give you a good view of the Manager's house where Shackleton and his men stumbled into at the end of their amazing journey. Read more about the historic aspects of this expedition.

Gentoo Penguin on South Georgia
Gentoo Penguin

Hercules Bay Macaroni Penguins are the most numerous of any penguin on South Georgia yet the most difficult to observe. They nest on steep tussock slopes and are especially fond of inhospitably exposed beaches. We hope to be able to slip into Hercules Bay to see the striking Macaronis just as they are returning to shore from eight straight months at sea. Impressive cliffs of wonderfully folded rock surround this narrow bay and a long waterfall drops down the back of the bay adding to the dramatic scene. This is also a great area for Zodiac cruising around Hercules Point where more Macaronis will be coming in from sea to stake out their nesting sites. You'll want to have your camera ready for the wonderful "porpoising" penguin action shots as they quickly dart in and out of the water on their way to shore. Even more spectacular is the final launch onto the rocky shores, followed by the awkward-looking waddle up the slippery rocks and steep slopes, reminding us that this truly is a marine, not land, animal. The kelp forests here are also good for Leopard Seal, so we'll keep our fingers crossed.

Grytviken and King Edward Point Grytviken was one of the most active whaling stations in all of the history of whaling, but the flensing plan is now empty, the boilers silent. Over 60 years of whaling history is now well told in the excellent exhibits of the South Georgia Museum. Our expedition staff members Tim and Pauline Carr are responsible for much of what we see in the museum today, the product of 14 years of a labor of love for them both. The natural history exhibits are enriching as well. When you have finished browsing and perhaps doing a little museum store shopping, the whaler's graveyard where Shackleton lies can be explored after a short walk around the bay. In the graveyard where Shackleton is buried, many young Southern Elephant Seals now snooze atop the whalers who no longer threaten them. Gentoo Penguins and South Georgia Pintails are just a few of the other species that have taken up residence in and around the old whaling station. Set back behind the other buildings, a pristine white church, which was brought to Grytviken in 1913, stands just in front of the snow-covered slopes, waiting for visitors. On the opposite side of King Edward Cove from Grytviken is King Edward Point, where the research station now sits, and a short walk beyond that you will find the Shackleton Memorial Cross.

Godhul Gentoo penguins are now the principle resident of this site where whaling once dominated, as evidenced by the remains of wooden platform boats called jolles and a beach thick with whalebones. Two small lakes sit on the gentle shoreline before jagged peaks rising into the island's interior, waterfall fed and frequented by reindeer. We can expect the sky to ring with the reedy beautiful Light-mantled Sooty Albatross courtship calls as they sail in synchronized flight overhead. These subtly beautiful torpedo shaped birds favor nests in the steep tussock slopes above the inlet.

Ocean Harbor Ocean Harbour housed a whaling station until 1920 and remnants still scatter the site, though the most impressive remain is the Bayard. The rusty ship now serves as a vibrant nesting site for over 80 pairs of Blue-eyed Shags, one of the larger colonies on South Georgia. We'll take the Zodiacs in for a close look at the shags courting and nesting in the tussock grass growing on the slanted deck, a wonderful display of nature taking back this region. The beach here is a popular haul out for Antarctic Fur Seals and Southern Elephant Seals and herds of reindeer may be spotted on the slopes above.

St. Andrews Bay There are places in the world so far beyond description that any attempt rings hollow. St. Andrews Bay is such a place. Upwards of 150,000 pairs of King Penguins form not a colony, but a landscape. You will think you are among many penguins walking along the beach from the landing site, the air filled with calls and life all around you, but as you walk over the glacial moraine bordering the north end of the colony, the mass of penguin calls hit you, all blended together into one vast wave. Here you will see the bounty of the rich, vast Southern Ocean. It must be seen, heard, and experienced to be believed.

At this time of year, King Penguins will be far from the only attraction at St. Andrews. The world's largest seal, the Southern Elephant Seal, gathers here by the thousands creating one of the densest concentrations of life on the planet. We can expect to see thousands of females with young pups nursing. Many large male "beachmasters" seek to own a stretch of the long beach and are willing to fight in great tonnages of seal jousting because here lay their best hopes for breeding. The male elephant seal puts so much into his territorial defense that his life expectancy is less than half that of the female. If he is a successful beachmaster, however, this short life is one of great glory! We are very fortunate to be able to experience the elephant seal breeding season, usually long past when most travelers to South Georgia have the chance to visit. The peaks that rise behind the beach, plus the glaciers, streams, and pools here, all add to the majestic scenery of this magical site.

King Penguins, Right Whale Bay, South Georgia
Elephant Seal Harem on the beach at Gold Harbour, South Georgia

Gold Harbour Simply put, Gold Harbour is a glorious place, with something, indeed many things, for everyone who enjoys nature. Both the wildlife and scenery are fabulous. We will find a beach at least as densely packed with Southern Elephant Seals as St. Andrews Bay (though a smaller beach, so less numbers overall), about 25,000 pairs of King Penguins, many of whom line a glacial meltwater river winding behind the beach, a Gentoo Penguin colony, steep but hikeable slopes with Light-mantled Sooty Albatross nesting on their flanks, and a tumbling icefall bordering the back of the Harbour making for stunning landscapes and the occasional explosion of glacial blocks tumbling down to the coast. More than a few will likely elect to skip lunch, unable to leave this wildlife rich scene, especially if the skies are blue, as the often are.

Royal Bay Several landing sites attract us to Royal Bay, though the exposed bay is very weather dependent. A fjord-like glacially carved valley empties into Moltke Harbour, a backdrop to as many as 1,000 elephant seals. A growing King Penguin colony has topped 30,000 pairs at Brisbane Point in recent counts, with constant activity bouncing in upon the cobblestone beach boulders. Across the cove from Brisbane Point, the striking Weddell Glacier looms and creates the perfect backdrop for photographing the many species that frequent the point, including Antarctic Terns, giant petrels, elephant seals, and more. If calm conditions prevail, we will enjoy landings here.

Cooper Bay At Cooper Bay we will strive to get close to the marvelous Macaroni Penguins which nest at this accessible landing. A hike up through tussock slopes will reward us with Macaronis in a frenzy of early breeding season activity. Cooper Bay is also home to South Georgia's only colony of Chinstrap Penguins, which we will visit if conditions allow. Just across from Cooper Bay sits Cooper Island, a rat-free island that is extremely important breeding habitat for burrow-nesting seabirds.

Drygalski Fjord and Larsen Harbour The southern part of South Georgia differs strikingly in geology from the remainder of the island and in the sheer-walled Drygalski Fjord we can really see this difference. As we cruise up the fjord, we can see granite, gabbro, and metamorphic rocks to starboard (ship's right), remnant of the Gondwana continental margin. To port (ship's left), the mountains are built of the Larsen Harbour Complex, uplifted ocean floor basalt and granite that rose in the formation of the Andes and was then ripped and rafted east to its present location over the last 40 million years. At the end of the fjord, the Risting Glacier calves frequently into the waters, stirring up marine life that is quickly grabbed by Antarctic Terns and maybe a few pure white Snow Petrels. We may take a short Zodiac trip up Larsen Harbour to check in on a small colony of Weddell Seals who are likely to have pups ashore with them.

Cape Disappointment Captain Cook was the first to lay eyes on South Georgia and his great hope was that he had found the tip of a great southern continent. The name Cape Disappointment reflects his feelings when he found that South Georgia was no continent at all. He was none too impressed with South Georgia without apparent exploitable resources, but the Black-browed Albatross that breed in great numbers on the sheer slopes here never did mind his departure. They are less numerous now due to the impact of long-line fishing, but still impressive in number. If weather is favorable, we may ship cruise to this southern extreme for a good look and perhaps even a circumnavigation of the island, as we have accomplished on our previous voyages.

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Our Staff

More expedition staff members will be listed to make a total of eleven.

Ted Cheeseman of Cheesemans Ecology Safaris
Ted

Ted Cheeseman (Expedition Leader, Ecologist, Lecturer, Zodiac Driver and Photographer) found his heart stolen by South Georgia after his first visit in 1994 and has returned many times since. Ted has traveled with Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris since the early 1980's and has led and organized expeditions since finishing his graduate degree in conservation biology at Duke University in 2000. Ted's great passion is making expeditions possible for travelers to spend the maximum time possible with wildlife, believing that by coming to know wildlife and wilderness intimately, travelers will come to respect the value of wild places in their pristine state.

Tim Carr of Cheesemans Ecology Safaris
Tim

Pauline Carr of Cheesemans Ecology Safaris
Pauline

Tim and Pauline Carr (Naturalists and Historians, Lecturers and Zodiac Drivers) spent 14 years on South Georgia working for the South Georgia Museum, first as custodians and then as curators. Before becoming the sole resident human population on South Georgia, they spent 25 years circumnavigating the globe in Curlew, a 28-foot, engineless, wooden sailboat, built in 1898. Arriving at South Georgia in 1992, the Carrs were inspired by this incredible island and, in 1998, they published Antarctic Oasis. In addition to their sailing exploits around the island, they have explored inland extensively whilst camping in tents, bivouacs, and snow holes. Tim and Pauline are delightful personalities and they bring to our voyage an unparalleled, intimate knowledge of this very special island.

Hugh Rose of Cheesemans Ecology Safaris
Hugh

Hugh Rose (Professional Photographer, Geologist, Naturalist, Lecturer, and Zodiac Driver) brings to this expedition well over a decade of professional guiding experience in the Antarctic and Alaska. He is also a professional photographer and owner of Hugh Rose Photography. He will share his understanding of wildlife, natural history, geology, and photography with walks onshore and onboard seminars. Hugh is also on our Antarctica expedition staff and leads our three Alaskan journeys to great praise from all participants.

Tom Murphy of Cheesemans Ecology Safaris
Tom

Tom Murphy (Professional Photographer, Lecturer, and Zodiac Driver) founded Wilderness Photography Expeditions and teaches a well-known and respected photography seminar series primarily in Yellowstone National Park. Tom will teach photo sessions onboard and ashore to help you bring your wildlife photography to new levels of excellence. He is the author of several books including The Spirit of Winter: The Seasons of Yellowstone. He has also been featured in a PBS Nature series program, Chistmas in Yellowstone.

Gail Cheeseman of Cheesemans Ecology Safaris
Rod

Doug Cheeseman of Cheesemans Ecology Safaris
Marlene

Rod and Marlene Planck (Professional Photographers, Lecturers and Naturalists on Watch at Sea). Rod's book Nature's Places is a masterpiece of superb photography. On shore, Rod will teach photography sessions and at sea, Marlene and Rod, both excellent naturalists, spend every moment possible on watch. Rod and Marlene lead superb nature photo workshops and seminars. Read more about their work on their website.

Ali Liddle of Cheesemans Ecology Safaris
Ali

Ali Liddle (Naturalist and Zodiac Driver) has lived in the Falkland Islands for fifteen years, where she currently divides her time between teaching, working as Educational Officer with Falklands Conservation, and guiding Antarctic expeditions. In 1997, she spent nine months on South Georgia where she ran the small Post Office and took every opportunity to explore the local area around Grytviken and King Edward Point. She has published three books to date including Plants of the Falkland Islands and two arts-and-crafts books for children using penguins and albatross as a source of inspiration.

David Shoch of Cheesemans Ecology Safaris
Dave

David Shoch (Bird guide and Naturalist) has worked all over the world studying the role of forests in climate change. Despite the lack of trees on South Georgia, he won't be out of place; David is also a world-class seabirder with extensive experience guiding at sea. Count on finding him on deck, ready to identify and interpret the rich avian diversity of the Southern Ocean. On shore, David will assist with landings and help find the best vantages for observing wildlife.

Joe Kaplan of Cheesemans Ecology Safaris
Joe

Joe Kaplan (Naturalist and Zodiac Driver) has had a passion for natural history since childhood. An itinerant biologist at heart, Joe has worked and traveled extensively throughout the Americas, the Pacific, Australasia, and Madagascar, gaining a broad understanding of biology and conservation that he generously shares on our expedition. When not in the field, Joe can be found mending historic lighthouses, tending garden, or working to protect the land he calls home in Michigan's Upper Peninsula. Joe is a director and biologist for the non-profit organization Common Coast Research and Conservation.

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Our Ship and Crew

M/V Ushuaia sailing South Georgia Island
M/V Ushuaia

M/V Ushuaia: Originally built for the United States agency NOAA (National Oceanographic and Atmospheric Administration), the MV Ushuaia has been recently refurbished to accommodate a maximum of 74 passengers in comfortable twin cabins and suites. An ice-strengthened polar vessel, Ushuaia is well appointed and provides ample deck space and an open bridge policy. The full complement of inflatable landing craft ensures superb landings as well as wildlife viewing opportunities along stretches of otherwise inaccessible coastline. The Ushuaia will carry sufficient landing craft (mostly mark V Zodiacs with clean-burning 4-stroke engines) to have all passengers in Zodiacs at once, allowing for longer Zodiac cruises and fast access to landings – more time ashore! See the deckplan, photos and more ship details.

The Ushuaia is staffed with a Chilean and Argentinean crew. Our expert captain, officers, and crew are highly experienced in Antarctic navigation and have a great love of nature. The crew will take care to use minimal vessel lights and cover windows at night to prevent birds from striking the ship. We provide a specialist team of international expedition leaders and lecturers, all extremely knowledgeable, enthusiastic, helpful, and dedicated to the protection of the environment.

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Costs

Payments: Payments are due as listed in the following table. Cost is per person, double occupancy, depending on cabin choice. We reserve the right to charge for cost increases, including changes in exchange rates or fuel costs that occur between now and the date of travel.

Payment Schedule
Deposit - to reserve your space $1,000
October 1, 2011 - second payment $2,000
March 1, 2012 - third payment $2,000
July 15, 2012 - final payment remaining balance
For reservations made after due dates, all previous payments are due with registration.

 

Cabin Choice Tour Cost1
C class: Twin cabins with semi-private2 bath, upper/lower berths, no porthole $9,650
B class: Twin cabins with semi-private2 bath, upper/lower berths, porthole windows $11,850
A class: Twin cabins with private bath, 2 lower berths, porthole windows $14,650
AA class: Superior twin cabins with private bath, 2 lower berths, large windows $15,200
Suites: Upper deck suites with private bath, 2 or 3 lower berths, large windows. 204 and 207 have 3 lower berths. Contact us if interested in booking as triple. $16,650
1Cost is per person, double occupancy.
2 Semi-private bath cabins share one bathroom between two cabins.

Single Occupancy: No single cabins are available. Double occupancy cabins may be booked on a single basis at 1.9 times the published rate. If you are willing to have a roommate assigned to your cabin, there will be no single supplement charge.

Cancellation Policy: Refunds are given depending on the time left before the departure on October 18, 2012 according to the following table. You can purchase trip cancellation insurance that would refund your trip costs in the event of your cancellation. Please take the time to learn if this insurance would be in your best interest. Read about travel insurance and our recommendations and requirements.

Refund Schedule
Days until Departure Dates Refund Amount
180 or more Before April 21, 2012 $300 withheld1
179 - 150 April 22 - May 21, 2012 10% of tour cost withheld
149 - 120 May 22 - June 20, 2012 40% of tour cost withheld
119 or less After June 21, 2012 no refund possible
1This $300 cancellation fee may go toward another tour if reserved within six months of the cancelled trip's departure date.

Included:

  • 21 nights, 22 days on board the MV Ushuaia.
  • All meals beginning with breakfast on October 20 through breakfast on November 10.
  • All landing fees, passenger fees and port taxes, including landing fees of approximately $110 for the Falkland Islands and £165 for South Georgia.
  • Lodging in Santiago on October 19 (no transfer is needed as the hotel is across from the airport).
  • Airport transfer in Ushuaia on November 10.
  • Expedition Log with daily accounts and photographs from our journey.

Not Included:

  • Airfare, airport arrival/departure taxes and fees, excess baggage fees, and separate airport transfers.
  • Chilean reciprocal visa fee, varies by country of origin (currently $140 for US citizens, subject to change), and Argentina visa fee, if any.
  • Meals on October 19.
  • Personal items such as laundry, bar charges, wine, liquor, bottled beverages, fax/phone/email charges.
  • Travel insurance (see below).
  • Gratuities: Tipping is, of course, discretionary, however we suggest budgeting $12– $14 per day, per participant (a total of about $300 per participant) to be distributed among all the ship's crew. The gratuity will be collected at the end of the voyage.

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Sign-up

To Make a Reservation: Please contact us to assure space availability and to let us answer your questions. Then, print our reservation form, fill it out, and post it to us in the mail with your deposit. Or fill out our handy online information request and we will send you more information.

Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris
20800 Kittredge Road
Saratoga, CA 95070

Toll Free: (800) 527-5330
Local: (408) 741-5330
Fax: (408) 741-0358
Email: info@cheesemans.com

Other Details

Travel Insurance: There are many types of travel insurance, including emergency medical insurance (cheap) and trip cancellation insurance (expensive). Be sure to compare benefits and exclusions carefully so you will purchase the policy that you desire and need. Due to the remote location of this destination, we require all our passengers to purchase emergency medical evacuation insurance for the duration of this expedition. Read our recommendations.

Flights: Please let us know if you would like help arranging your international flights and we will put you in contact with our excellent ticketing agent. Additional information, including flight routes and group fare options, will be sent after registration.

Inbound Flights - Arrive in Santiago, Chile (SCL) by October 19. Non-stop flights are available from many international airports; most flights travel overnight and arrive in the early morning. On October 20, we will take the once-weekly flight from Santiago to Mount Pleasant Airport (MPN) in the Falkland Islands. We will let you know once fares are available if we can offer a good group fare for this flight.

Outbound Flights - Depart from Ushuaia anytime on the morning of November 10 (or later). There are several flights to choose from to the international airport in Buenos Aires, Argentina (EZE) for connections homeward. You may also find connections through other intermediate stops such as Santiago, Chile. If you prefer to extend your trip, we can assist with extra hotel nights and trip extensions.

Conditions: Travel to remote places like South Georgia is exciting, but understanding and accepting the risks, both medical and logistical, is important. There is a small infirmary on board the ship and minor medical problems can be treated, but due to the remoteness of most of our itinerary, there can be no expectation for medical evacuation by air or ship, even in cases of trauma. If this fact concerns you too much, do not choose this trip for your vacation. Anyone with health problems needing close medical supervision should not consider going on this trip. Bring enough medication for more than the duration of the trip for any chronic medical needs, including seasickness prevention. When you send your tour deposit and signed reservation form, you certify to us that you do not knowingly have any physical or other conditions that would create a risk for yourself or for other trip participants.

Seasickness: Don't let a fear of seasickness scare you away! Read our recommendations for coping with seasickness.

Expedition Log: After the completion of your voyage, you can look forward to a full color log of the expedition mailed directly to you. This descriptive and detailed record includes daily sightings, trip accounts, species lists, and excellent photography throughout our incredible journey. Read the log from our journey in October 2009.

Non-smoking Policy: We have a strict non-smoking policy - smoking is not permitted at any time or any place during our tours.

Mailing List: If you would like to be on our mailing list or request information, please use our online information request form or contact us to give us your name, address, email address and phone number. Please note we will never share your personal information with anybody!

Responsibility: Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris, Saratoga, California, act only as agents and shall not be responsible or become liable for any delay incurred by any person in connection with any means of transportation, nor for the loss, damage, or injury to person or property by reason of any event beyond the control of the agency or default of such agency suppliers. We reserve the right to cancel the tour prior to departure in which case full refund will constitute full settlement to the passenger. No refund will be made for any unused portion of the tour unless arrangements are made at the time of booking. All rates are based on current tariffs, exchange rates and fuel prices and are subject to adjustment in the event of any change therein. By sending your initial deposit, you agree to accept our payment schedule as a contract. If payments are still outstanding two weeks after the due date, your space may be forfeited. Baggage is at the owner's risk.

Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris is registered as California Seller of Travel #2063050-40. Registration as a seller of travel does not constitute approval by the State of California. Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris is a participant in the Travel Consumer Restitution Corporation (TCRC). In event of a client canceling where a refund is applicable in accordance with the schedule above, or in the event that CES needs to cancel the trip, all payments for transportation or travel service not provided to the client shall be promptly refunded, unless the client instructs us otherwise in writing. All client payments are deposited into a trust account in accordance with California law. If for any reason a valid refund is not forthcoming, the client may request reimbursement from the TCRC within six months of the scheduled end of the tour. Please feel free to ask us for more information.

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All material © Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris.
All photos © Doug or Ted Cheeseman, unless otherwise credited.

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